Crafting Unique Wooden Wedding Rings: A Guide

Wooden wedding rings are a fun project for any woodworker and can be made using basic tools. The process involves cutting, drilling, and sanding a block of dense wood, such as mahogany or Brazilian walnut, into a thin ring shape. The ring can then be finished with a coat of oil or wax to protect the wood and add shine. Making wooden wedding rings allows for creativity in terms of shape, colour, and the incorporation of different materials such as metal or veneer.

Choosing the right wood

African Padauk

African Padauk has a deep orange or reddish colour that will turn a warm brown over time with exposure to UV light. It is a dense wood that will sink in water.

Ipe

Ipe, also known as Brazilian Walnut, is a dark-coloured wood. It is so dense that it will sink in water and is excellent for making bows.

Hawaiian Koa

Hawaiian Koa has a reddish-brown or medium gold appearance and is widely considered one of the most beautiful types of wood from the Hawaiian islands. It is easy to work with and reasonably priced.

Mahogany

Mahogany is a straight-grained wood with a reddish-brown hue. It is highly workable and has a relatively high rot resistance. It does not have many issues with shrinkage or swelling, making it one of the best woods for adding wood accents to rings.

Sandalwood

Sandalwood has a yellow hue and a fine-grained appearance. It is highly durable and can stand the test of time. It is considered sacred in cultures such as Buddhism and Hinduism and is believed to have spiritual implications.

Ebony

Ebony is a gorgeously grained wood with a super dark hue. It is a finely textured wood that can be incredibly smooth when polished. It is a dense hardwood that is durable and able to withstand everyday wear and tear. It is capable of presenting a superior polished finish, making it highly sought after.

When choosing a wood for your wedding ring, consider the colour, grain pattern, workability, and durability of the wood. Keep in mind that the ring will be thin, so a dense and strong wood is necessary.

Cutting the wood blank

The first step in making a wooden ring is choosing the right type of wood. Since the ring will be fairly thin, you'll want to select a dense and strong variety of wood. Rich species such as African Padauk, mahogany, cocobolo, and Brazilian walnut are good choices. As a general rule, the darker the colour, the more resilient the wood will be. Softer woods are more likely to crack or splinter during the shaping process.

Look for sample wood billets at local stores that specialise in woodworking or home improvement. A large piece of scrap wood will only cost a few dollars, and you might even be able to find some for free.

Next, measure and mark the wood. Measure 1⅜" (3.5 cm) from the end of the scrap wood and draw a line straight down the width with a pencil. If the piece of wood is larger than 1⅜" (3.5 cm), you may need to measure and mark both vertically and horizontally. This line indicates where you'll be cutting the blank, which will serve as the raw material for your ring.

Now it's time to cut the blank. Using a bandsaw or circular saw, cut along the line you drew. Make sure to saw the wood across the grain, not with it, to ensure the structural integrity of the ring. You'll be left with a flat, slender square, similar to a drink coaster. If you don't have access to a power saw, you can also use a handsaw, but this will require more time and effort due to the density of the wood.

At this point, you'll want to mark the blank to indicate where the finger hole will go. Take a pencil or a felt-tipped marker and make a small, bold dot at the centre of the wooden square. This is where you'll place the tip of the drill bit to create the finger hole. Don't worry about getting the placement exactly right, as you'll be removing excess material from the outer edges later.

Drilling the Finger Hole

Now it's time to drill the finger hole. Select a drill bit that is slightly narrower than your ring finger. A wood bore or spade bit with a flared tip is recommended. Compare the width of the bit with the diameter of your ring finger for reference. If you already have a ring, you can slide the bit inside to ensure it fits without touching. Secure the blank in a vice or C-clamp, situating the wood widthwise so that the dot you made is facing upwards. Tighten the clamps to hold the blank in place.

Under no circumstances should you attempt to hold the blank by hand while drilling. Position the tip of the drill bit over the dot and apply modest pressure as you drill. Drill only halfway through the blank to minimise the risk of chipping or breaking. Then, remove the blank from the clamp, flip it over, and resecure it. Double-check that the drill bit tip is aligned, and repeat the drilling process from the opposite side until the bit bores through.

Sanding the Finger Hole

Use a Dremel tool or sandpaper to sand the inside of the finger hole. The inner surface should be smooth, with no points or edges that could cause splinters. If using sandpaper, start with medium-grit sandpaper (around 80 grit) and then follow up with a high-grit variety (100-120 grit) to get a seamless texture. Be patient and don't try the ring on until you've sanded it thoroughly.

Shaping the Ring

Draw a ring shape roughly 2-3mm larger than the inside edge of the hole. This circle, along with the inner circle, will determine the ring's thickness. Don't worry about making this circle perfect, as you'll be refining the shape later. Cut off the squared corners of the blank by drawing a line across each corner where it intersects with the edge of the outer circle. Clamp the ring to your work surface and use a pull saw to cut off the corners, or use a band saw or table saw if you have a suitable jig.

Now it's time to sand the ring into its final shape. Hold the outer edge of the blank lightly against a Dremel tool or belt sander and rotate the wood gradually to ensure an even and symmetrical shape. Continue sanding down the blank gradually, using the circular outline as a guide. Be careful not to apply too much pressure, as you can always sand off more if needed, but you can't add wood back on.

Drilling the finger hole

Select the appropriate drill bit: Choose a wood bore or spade bit with a flared tip. Ensure that the drill bit is slightly narrower than your ring finger. This is important to ensure the ring fits comfortably. You can also compare the width of the bit with the diameter of your finger or use one of your existing rings as a guide.

Secure the wooden blank: Place the wooden blank in a vice or C-clamp, widthwise, with the marked centre of the finger hole facing upwards. Twist the hand crank or dial clockwise to tighten the clamps and hold the blank securely in place. If you don't have access to a vice or C-clamp, you can use pliers to grip the outermost edge of the wood.

Drill halfway through the blank: Position the tip of the drill bit over the marked centre of the wooden blank and start drilling. Apply moderate pressure and drill only halfway through to create a small hole with a shallow circle around it. Drilling straight through the wood can result in splintering.

Flip and finish drilling: Remove the blank from the clamp, flip it over, and secure it again. Ensure the drill bit tip is aligned with the hole and carefully drill the rest of the way through from the opposite side. Drilling halfway first minimises the risk of chipping or breaking the wood.

Sand the inside of the finger hole: Use a Dremel tool or folded sandpaper to smooth the inner surface of the hole. This step ensures that the ring will be comfortable to wear and won't cause any scratches. Start with medium-grit sandpaper (around 80 grit) and then move to a high-grit one (100-120 grit) for a seamless finish.

By carefully following these steps, you will create a well-drilled finger hole for your wooden wedding ring, ensuring a comfortable and secure fit.

Sanding and shaping the ring

Now that you have the ring cut out, it's time for the most time-consuming part of the process: sanding and shaping. This is where you'll need to be extra patient and careful, as you can always sand off more if needed, but you can't put the wood back on.

First, draw a ring shape roughly 2-3mm larger than the inside edge of the ring. Don't worry about making this circle too perfect, as you'll be sanding it into the proper shape later. Due to the risk of breakage, it's not recommended that you go any thinner than about 2mm.

Next, cut off the squared corners of the blank. Draw a line across each corner where it intersects with the edge of the outer circle, then clamp the ring to your work surface and use a pull saw to cut off the corners. Alternatively, if you have a jig, you can trim the corners with a band saw or table saw. This will leave the blank with a rough octagonal shape. Make sure to wear safety goggles and be very careful during this step.

Now it's time to sand the ring into its finished shape. Hold the outer edge of the blank lightly against the Dremel tool or belt sander and rotate the wood gradually to ensure that the band turns out as even and symmetrical as possible. Continue sanding down the blank little by little, using the circular outline as a guide. Remember, it's important not to bear down too hard.

Once you're happy with the basic shape of your ring, it's time to bevel the edges. Tilt the ring at a 30-45-degree angle and press it gently into the sander or Dremel. Rotate the ring until you've sanded down the entire circumference, then turn it over and smooth the opposite side. Again, be careful not to remove too much wood from the edges.

Finishing the ring

Once you are happy with the shape of your ring, it's time to finish it off. This involves beveling the edges, heat-treating the ring to strengthen the wood, and applying a coat of oil or wax to preserve the finish.

Bevel the Edges

Tilt the ring at a 30-45 degree angle and gently press it into the sander or Dremel tool. Rotate the ring until the entire circumference has been sanded down, then turn it over and smooth the opposite side. Be careful not to remove too much wood from the edges. Beveling wears down the squared corners, making the ring more comfortable to put on and take off.

Heat-Treat the Ring (Optional)

Heat-treating the ring with a heating gun can provide added durability and a more customised fit. Place the ring on a heat-safe surface and position the nozzle of the gun 6 inches (15 cm) above it. Wave the gun back and forth slowly until the wood just begins to smoke or darken around the edges. Exposure to intense heat will cause the fibres in the wood to draw up, making them stronger.

Apply a Coat of Oil or Wax

Dab a small amount of beeswax or linseed, walnut, or tung oil onto a clean cloth and rub it over the inside and outside of the ring. Wipe off any excess oil or wax and allow the finish to dry for a few minutes before trying on your new ring. Oils and waxes act as a natural buffer against dirt, moisture, and scratches, and will keep your ring from cracking or splitting over time. If you are unable to find a suitable finish, don't worry—the natural oils secreted by your skin will coat the ring over time.

Frequently asked questions