Creating A Unique Octagon Wedding Arch

A wedding arch is a great way to add a unique and trendy touch to your ceremony. Octagon arches are available as ready-made rentals or DIY projects. You can buy construction plans online and source the materials yourself, or you can buy a kit with all the materials included. If you're handy with tools and enjoy a challenge, building your own arch can be a fun and rewarding project. However, if you don't have the time or inclination, renting a pre-made arch is a more convenient option.

Choosing and cutting wood

The first step in building your wedding arch is to choose the right wood for your project. Consider factors such as cost, appearance, and whether the arch will be used outdoors in the long term. For example, cedar is a good choice for outdoor use as it is naturally bug and rot-resistant, while clear vertical-grain Doug fir is a more expensive but stunning option. If you're only using the arch for one day, you can opt for a more affordable type of wood, such as green Doug fir, which is the most affordable option.

Once you've selected the type of wood, you'll need to cut it to the required size. Cut all the four-by-four posts to 80". If you don't have a large enough saw, you can ask for the wood to be cut for you when you purchase it. Keep in mind that green lumber, like the Doug fir, will be wet, so allow it to dry indoors for a week or two before working with it. Also, be aware of sap buildup, which you can remove with a putty knife.

For the remaining cuts, you can use a handsaw and a miter box or a circular saw and a speed square. From each two-by-four, you'll need to cut the following pieces:

• One long piece with opposing 45-degree angles, measuring the shorter side at 48".
• Another piece with opposing 45-degree angles, measuring the shorter side at 12".
• A 24" piece with straight angles.

Take the long 48" pieces and measure in from the point of each end, marking at two inches and cutting at a straight angle. Remember to measure twice and cut once to ensure accuracy.

After cutting, use sandpaper to buff away any rough patches, ink stamps, paint, or any other unsightly markings on the wood. This step is important as construction-grade lumber is not designed to be on display, so you'll want to smooth out any imperfections.

Sanding the wood

Before you begin sanding, decide whether you want to sand the wood by hand or use an electric sander. If you opt for the latter, ensure you have access to one. Sanding the wood will smooth out any rough patches and remove any ink stamps, paint, or other unsightly markings.

Start by inspecting the wood for any large pieces of sap. Use a putty knife to remove these, being careful not to damage the wood. Once you've removed the sap, use the putty knife to smooth the area, allowing the sap to dry quickly and preventing sticky patches.

Next, use your chosen sanding method to buff away any rough patches and markings on the wood. Pay particular attention to the ends of the wood, as these may have painted ends or visible stamps that you'll want to erase. If you're short on time or want to simplify the process, you can skip some of the buffing and position the pieces with markings towards the backside of the arch, where they will be less noticeable.

If you're using an electric sander, be sure to wear the appropriate safety gear, including eye protection and a dust mask, to avoid inhaling any wood dust. Work in a well-ventilated area or outdoors if possible.

If you're sanding by hand, start with a medium-grit sandpaper (around 100-grit) to remove any larger imperfections. Then, switch to a finer grit (150-grit or higher) to smooth out the wood further and create a softer finish. Take your time and sand with the grain of the wood, applying even pressure as you work.

Once you've finished sanding, use a soft brush or cloth to remove any sawdust from the wood. This will help you evaluate your progress and ensure a smoother finish when you apply the stain.

Finally, if there are any small cracks or holes in the wood, you can use a wood filler or putty to fill them. Allow the filler to dry completely, then sand the area lightly to ensure a smooth and even surface.

By following these steps, you'll create a smooth and aesthetically pleasing finish for your octagon wedding arch.

Assembling the top frame

Now that you have the wood cut and sanded, it's time to assemble the top frame of your octagon wedding arch.

Take the two 48” top pieces and the two 24” side pieces and lay them out in a rectangle. The 48” pieces should be at the front and back, with the 24” pieces on the sides. On the shorter sides of the 48” pieces, make a pencil mark 2” in from each end. The sides will fit on the inside of these pencil marks.

Before securing the frame with screws, it's important to pre-drill the holes to prevent the wood from splitting. Line up the pieces according to your pencil marks and use a 5/17” nut-setter bit to pre-drill the holes. Then, secure the frame with 4” decorative screws. If your screws have a hexagonal head, you can use a wrench or a nut-setter bit attached to your drill to tighten them.

Now that the top frame is assembled, you can attach the four-by-four posts, which will serve as the legs of your arch. Position the posts in the corners of the frame and use a scrap piece of wood to prop them up and keep them level. Secure the posts to the side pieces of the frame with two 4” screws each. Be careful not to overlap with the screws you placed earlier.

With the front of the arch facing up, attach the diagonal support pieces. Place them 1" from the top of the frame and secure them to the legs with 3” screws. Then, attach the pieces to the top of the frame with an additional 3” screw through the back, so the screw head is not visible from the front.

Adding diagonal supports

Cutting and Measuring:

Before you begin assembling the diagonal supports, you'll need to cut and measure the necessary pieces of wood. Using a handsaw and a miter box, or a circular saw and a speed square, cut the following pieces from a two-by-four:

• Cut one long piece with opposing 45-degree angles, with the shorter side measuring 48 inches.
• Cut another piece with opposing 45-degree angles, with the shorter side measuring 12 inches.
• Cut a straight 24-inch piece with no angles.

Positioning the Diagonal Supports:

With the front of the arch facing up, carefully position the diagonal support pieces. Place them 1 inch below the top of the frame. This placement will provide additional strength to the structure.

Securing the Diagonal Supports:

Now it's time to secure the diagonal supports to the arch. Use a 3-inch screw to attach the bottom of the diagonal support pieces to the legs of the arch. For added aesthetics, secure the top of the diagonal supports to the frame with a single 3-inch screw driven through the back. This way, the screw head won't be visible from the front of the arch.

Stability and Transportation:

If you're concerned about stability, especially if your wedding is outdoors, consider adding metal stakes to the bottom of the arch's posts. This will help anchor the structure and prevent it from swaying or toppling over. Additionally, if you need to transport the arch, disassemble it into five separate pieces: the top frame, diagonal supports, and four legs. Mark the tops of the legs and their corresponding connection points for easier reassembly.

By following these steps and adding diagonal supports, you'll enhance the stability and visual appeal of your octagon wedding arch, making it a stunning backdrop for your special day.

Anchoring the arch with stakes

Depending on the location of your wedding (for example, the slope of the ground or the amount of wind), you may want to consider anchoring your arch with stakes. This will ensure that your arch remains stable and secure throughout the ceremony and celebrations.

You can purchase metal stakes that attach to the bottom of the posts at the back with screws. This type of stake won't leave a gaping hole when removed, so you won't be left with an eyesore when the wedding is over. If you're concerned about stability, you can also add stained 2x2s or 1x2s between the bottom of the legs for extra support. This is a quick fix and will likely be hidden completely if the arch is placed in grass.

If you're worried about the arch being blown over or knocked down, you can also try anchoring it with sandbags or weights. These can be discreetly placed around the base of the arch and will help to keep it firmly in place. Another option is to use guy ropes to secure the arch to nearby structures or heavy-duty garden stakes. This will help to distribute the weight and ensure the arch remains upright, even in windy conditions.

When anchoring your arch, it's important to consider the surface you'll be working with. If you're setting up on grass, for example, stakes or weights may be the best option. For hardstanding, sandbags or weights could be a better choice to avoid damaging the surface. It's also worth considering the weather conditions and whether there will be any children or pets present, as these factors may impact the safety and stability of your arch.

Frequently asked questions