Lyla Dejesus
A wedding dress bustle is an important part of any gown with a train, lifting the back of the dress off the floor so it doesn't get dirty or trodden on. There are several types of bustles, including the American and French styles, each of which benefits the wearer in the same way. The process of bustling a wedding dress can be tricky, and it's recommended that a professional seamstress is sought to ensure it's done correctly. However, there are ways to bustle a wedding dress yourself, which can be a good way to cut the cost of a wedding.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To lift the back of the dress off the ground so it doesn't get soiled and the bride can move around with ease |
| Installation | Sewn into the wedding dress, usually with buttons, loops, ties, or hooks |
| Types | Over bustle, under bustle, French bustle, American bustle, wrist bustle |
| Installation Expertise | Seamstress, alterations expert, tailor |
| Installation Time | Before the wedding day |
| Installation Cost | $75-$250 |
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What You'll Learn
Why bustle a wedding dress?
Additionally, a bustle can add a lovely new dimension to the bride's look. It can enhance the silhouette of the wedding dress, especially with styles like the American bustle (also known as an over bustle). This style involves lifting the outside of the train and securing it over the back of the gown to the waistline, creating a cascading feel as the fabric folds flow over the rest of the skirt.
Furthermore, bustling your own gown can be a way to cut costs. Wedding dresses often don't come with a pre-made bustle, and adding one can increase the price. By learning to sew a bustle herself, a bride can save money.
Lastly, a bustle can help to create a uniformed hemline and a polished look for the wedding dress. It ensures that the extra fabric of the train is securely fastened and doesn't drag on the floor, creating a neat and elegant appearance for the bride.
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How to sew a bustle
Sewing a wedding dress bustle is a complex task that requires a good understanding of sewing techniques and tools. It is not recommended for beginners, and it is advised to seek the help of a skilled seamstress or alterations expert. However, if you are confident in your sewing abilities, here is a general guide on how to sew a wedding dress bustle:
First, decide on the type of bustle you want. There are several types to choose from, including the French bustle, American bustle, wrist bustle, ballroom bustle, train-flip bustle, and Austrian bustle. Each type has a different look and requires a different number of hooks, buttons, loops, or ribbons. For example, a French bustle typically has three points that distribute the weight of a long train, while a wrist bustle uses a loop of fabric sewn onto the back of the dress to carry the train.
Next, gather your materials. You will need a dress form or a friend to help you, measuring tape, ribbons, felt, straight pins, a thin needle, and thread. You may also need hooks, buttons, or eye hooks, depending on the type of bustle you choose.
Then, mark the points where you will attach the bustle. This will depend on the style of the dress and the desired look of the bustle. For a French bustle, you will typically mark three points on the center seam of the dress, with the middle point near the buttocks and the other two points on either side, about 7-8 inches away from the center.
Now, you can start sewing the bustle. If you are using ribbons, cut them to the desired length and seal the ends with clear nail polish, glue, or by heat-sealing them over a flame. Then, sew the ribbons onto the dress at the marked points, using a secure knot and a strong stitch like a lock stitch. If you are using hooks, buttons, or eye hooks, sew them onto the back of the dress securely, making sure to stitch each one multiple times to ensure they do not come undone.
Finally, attach the bustle to the dress. If using ribbons, tie them together at the marked points. If using hooks and loops, fasten the loops to the hooks. If using buttons, create button loops with strong thread and attach them to the corresponding buttons. Adjust the folds of fabric to create a neat and voluminous bustle.
Remember, this is a general guide, and the specific steps may vary depending on the style of the dress and the type of bustle you choose. It is always recommended to consult a professional seamstress or alterations expert for guidance and assistance.
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Types of bustles
Wedding dresses rarely come with a pre-made bustle, but adding one can be a great way to cut costs. Bustles lift the back of the dress off the ground, allowing the bride to move around with ease and alleviating the fear of tripping over a long train. There are several types of bustles, each with a unique appearance and functionality. Here are some of the most common types:
- Over Bustle / American Bustle: This is perhaps the simplest type of bustle. It is created by attaching the midpoint of the train to a button on the upper part of the back of the skirt. This can be done with one or multiple points of connection, depending on the fabric weight and train length. It is often used for light dresses without a long train.
- Traditional Bustle / French Bustle / Under Bustle: This classic style is one of the most popular among brides. The outside of the train is secured near the waistline, creating a cascading effect. It works with various silhouettes, including A-line, ball gown, and mermaid styles, and is especially beautiful with a cathedral train. It is perfect for lace and satin gowns with embellishments near the waist.
- Royal Bustle: This elaborate, vintage-inspired look is created by gathering the train and affixing it to the dress at several points, resulting in dramatic folds that add instant visual interest. It pairs well with A-line and ball gown silhouettes.
- Ballroom Bustle: This style makes the train visually disappear, creating the illusion that the bride has changed into a shorter dress. It can be used to conceal the bustle completely if desired. However, it may make the dress look fuller, resembling a ball gown.
These are just a few examples of the many bustle styles available. Each style can be customised to complement the design, fabric, and silhouette of the wedding dress. It is important to consult with a seamstress or bridal stylist to determine the best type of bustle for your gown.
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$14.59
Practicing bustling
Practising bustling a wedding dress is an important part of wedding preparations. It is recommended to schedule a practice session with your bridal party around three weeks before the wedding day. This gives you time to learn how to bustle the dress and make adjustments if needed.
The first step is to decide who will be the designated "bustler". This is usually the Maid of Honour, a bridesmaid, the mother of the bride, or another member of the bridal party. It is important that whoever is designated to bustle the dress attends the final dress fitting so they can learn how to do it directly from the seamstress.
At the practice session, the designated bustler will learn the specific steps for bustling your dress. This may include sewing loops, buttons, hooks, ties, or ribbons onto the back of the dress to lift the train off the ground. They will also learn how to adjust the folds of fabric to create a neat and voluminous bustle. It is a good idea to take videos during the practice session so that the designated bustler can refer back to them if needed.
Practising bustling is important to ensure that the bride can dance and move around comfortably during the reception. It also helps to prevent the dress from getting soiled or stepped on. By taking the time to practice, the designated bustler will feel confident in their role and ensure that the wedding dress looks flawless on the big day.
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Troubleshooting
Plan ahead
Before your wedding day, ensure that you have a bustle style in mind that suits your dress and that you have the right tools to bustle your dress. Schedule a practice session with your bridal party at least three weeks before the wedding so that they can learn how to bustle your dress.
Assign a designated bustler
Enlist the help of your maid of honour, a bridesmaid, your mum, or your mother-in-law to bustle your gown on the big day. Have this designated person attend your final fitting and learn directly from your seamstress.
Prepare for the worst-case scenario
No matter how carefully your seamstress stitches your bustle, there is always a possibility that it can break during your reception. Prepare an emergency kit with safety pins, a sewing needle, and a clear fishing line to have on hand in the bridal suite. If your wedding dress is bustled with ribbons and one of them comes loose, for example, your designated bustler should be ready to sew the ribbon back into the dress with a clear fishing line.
Ensure the bustle is tucked in neatly
The final step of bustling a wedding dress is to tuck in all the layers so that it looks neat and the lace shows on the outside. If you miss this critical step, the folds of the bustle will stick out, creating an untidy finish.
Conceal any exposed buttons or hooks
If you don't like the look of exposed buttons or hooks, you can hand-sew lace appliqués on top of them to conceal them.
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Frequently asked questions
A bustle is a key ingredient in safeguarding your dress and its train against potential damage. It will help you move around after the ceremony with ease and alleviate the fear of tripping over your long train. It will also prevent guests from stepping on your dress.
There are different types of bustles that a seamstress can add to a dress, including an over bustle or under bustle, depending on how the train folds into the dress. There is also a French bustle, where the train tucks underneath the dress, and a wrist bustle, where a loop is added to the underside of the train so that it can be carried from your wrist.
Creating a bustle is a work of art and should be left to the pros. A wedding dress is unlike any other dress, and a skilled seamstress or alterations expert can create a bustle to fit your dress perfectly. You can also sew a loop by placing a safety pin on the back of the dress halfway up the length of the bride's train. Thread the needle by doubling up the thread and inserting it into the needle. Tie the end of the thread with a knot to secure it, then insert the needle into the underside of the dress.
