Lyla Dejesus
Adding a bustle to a tulle wedding dress can be a challenging task. The process involves attaching ties to the underside seam of the skirt and sewing eye hooks to the end of the train. The back of the skirt is then tucked up and under the dress, allowing the eye hooks to be attached to the ties. This technique, known as a French bustle, tucks the fabric under, while the American bustle folds the fabric on top of the gown. For a tulle skirt with multiple layers, each layer may need to be picked up and draped correctly to create a beautiful and functional bustle.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Number of points | 3, 5, 8, 14, 25 |
| Type of bustle | French, American, Austrian, over bustle, invisible bustle |
| Type of attachment | Hooks, thread eyes, loops, ribbons, buttons, ties |
| Location of attachment | Underside seam of the skirt, waist, middle of the skirt, hem, outside of the dress near the lower back |
| Number of people required | 2-3 |
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What You'll Learn
The number of points in a bustle
A royal or Victorian bustle, for example, can have a singular pickup point with one hook and eyelet to lift the train. However, for a more detailed look, multiple pickup points can be added down and across the back, increasing the drama and dimension of the silhouette.
The number of points can also depend on the type of bustle. An American bustle, also known as an over bustle, typically has one, three, or five pickup points for a dramatic look. A French bustle, on the other hand, can have numerous pickup points, and the number of points may depend on the number of layers in the skirt. For instance, one bride mentioned that her 25-point bustle was necessary to keep her layered skirt off the ground, while another bride with a similar skirt managed with a 12-point bustle.
The ballroom bustle is another style that typically requires multiple bustle points sewn around the bodice to create the illusion of no bustle at all.
Ultimately, the number of points in a bustle can vary greatly depending on the specific dress and the desired look. Brides should work closely with their seamstress to determine the appropriate number of points for their bustle.
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Types of bustle: French, American, Austrian, and over bustle
A bustle is an alteration made to the back of a wedding dress to lift and secure the train to the dress, making it a manageable length for the bride to move around in. There are several types of bustles, including French, American, Austrian, and over bustles.
The French bustle, also known as an under-bustle, is created by tying ribbons underneath the gown's train. On the outside, it looks like a subtle fold. This bustle is ideal for dresses with minimal trains, such as mermaid dresses or trumpet silhouettes. It can be singular, doubled, or tripled for longer gowns, with up to 8-10 connecting points. To make it easier for the bride and bridesmaids to assemble, seamstresses should colour-code the ties.
The American bustle, also called an over-bustle, is created by raising and securing the outside of the train over the back of the gown to the waistline. This style adds drama to the back of the dress, creating a cascading effect. It is a simple bustle for a seamstress to create and easy to attach on the wedding day. This bustle works best with dresses that have fairly long trains.
The Austrian bustle is a rare style due to its complicated design. It involves a drawstring that can be pulled up to form ruffles, potentially creating a draping effect. This bustle is worth the extra effort and cost for brides who want a unique look. It works well with A-line and sheath silhouettes.
The over bustle, also known as the pick-up style, is a simple bustle where the train is lifted and secured to the waistline. It can be done with just the tulle, making the skirt look fuller.
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Attaching hooks and eyes
Prepare the Materials:
Before you start, gather the necessary materials: hooks and eyes (also known as eye hooks), thread, ribbons, and a needle. The hooks and eyes should be small and delicate, suitable for the fabric of your wedding dress.
Sew the Eye Hooks:
Begin by sewing the eye hooks onto the tulle skirt. Decide on the placement of the eye hooks, typically along the waistline or at the end of the train, depending on the style of bustle you want. Carefully sew each eye hook into place, trying to conceal them as much as possible with embroidery or beading. If you're using thread eyes, sew them onto the end of the train, ensuring they are secure.
Attach the Ribbons:
Use ribbons to create a pulley system for the bustle. Cut ribbons to the appropriate length, and attach them to the eye hooks. You can use different coloured ribbons or number the ends to make it easier to match them up when bustling the dress.
Practice the Bustle:
Before your big day, practice bustling the dress. Attach the hooks to the corresponding ribbons or eye hooks, pulling the skirt up to create the desired effect. Ensure that the hooks and eyes are securely fastened together. Adjust the ribbons as needed to achieve the perfect drape and length.
Assign a Helper:
On your wedding day, assign someone to help you with the bustling. It's a good idea to have them attend one of your dress fittings so they can learn how to properly bustle your dress. This person will be in charge of ensuring your dress looks perfect, and can also help with any bathroom breaks, where they'll need to unbustle and then rebustle the dress!
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Using ribbons and colour-coding
Tulle skirts can be difficult to bustle due to the many layers of fabric, but it is not impossible. In fact, a bustle can help secure the fabric of your gown's train, giving you the freedom to move around with ease.
If you are planning on having multiple points of attachment, you will need to attach several ties at the top of the inside of your skirt. Attach another tie on the underside of the skirt, this time further down the skirt from the first tie. This tie should be high enough to hold the skirt off the ground but far enough away from the first tie that when they are tied together, it creates a pleasant puffy area. You may need more than one tie, depending on how long your train is.
When using multiple ties, use different coloured ribbons to colour code which ties go together. This will make the job much easier and will also make the ties easier to see under all the layers of tulle and skirting. If you are afraid that the different colours will show through your fabric, just number the ends so that they correspond with the tie you will attach. For example, you could stitch the ends of the ribbons with different colours (pink, blue, green, etc.) and coordinate them with loops of ribbon of the same colour.
Another way to use ribbons is to run three to four loops of ribbon from the underneath, going from the back to the front, and hook them onto the front of the waistband. This will lift the fluff off the floor and the ribbons can be hidden in the folds of the tulle. You could also attach a ribbon to the bottom layer of tulle and hand-sew all the layers together during the reception.
If you are using hooks and eyes, remember that the eye hook needs to be sturdy enough to hold up the train of your dress, so if your train is heavy, be sure to attach a sturdy eye hook. There are many that look like lace or decorative beading, so do not settle for an eye hook that is too obvious.
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The role of a seamstress
During the initial consultation, the seamstress will assess the dress and recommend bustle styles that will work with the tulle fabric and any other design elements. For example, they might suggest a French bustle to enhance the drama of layered skirts, or an American bustle for a simple and dramatic look. They may also propose a unique bustle style, such as the Austrian bustle, which adds a whimsical touch with its draping effect.
Once the bustle style is chosen, the seamstress will carefully plan and execute the alterations. This includes determining the placement of fastening points, loops, buttons, or hooks, ensuring they are secure and do not cause any unwanted bulk or restrict the bride's movement. For intricate dresses, a skilled seamstress will know how to preserve the beauty of the design, such as with a lace overlay.
Additionally, the seamstress will provide guidance on the bustling process. They will often recommend having a trial run during the final dress fitting, where they will instruct the bride and her helpers on how to bustle the dress correctly. They may even suggest recording a video of the process for future reference.
The seamstress's expertise is invaluable in ensuring the bustle is functional and aesthetically pleasing. Their knowledge of fabrics and techniques allows them to create a durable bustle that complements the gown's style, enhancing the overall look and feel of the wedding dress.
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