George Boyle
A bustle is a way to alter a wedding dress with a train so that it appears trainless. This is usually done by lifting the train, creating a seamless look and allowing the bride to move freely. There are several types of bustles, including the American, French, Austrian, and Under-bustle. The choice of bustle depends on the style of the gown, with some being more suitable for ball gowns and others for fit-and-flare silhouettes. The seamstress plays a crucial role in creating the bustle and can advise on the best option. It is recommended to have someone present during the final fitting to learn how to bustle the dress for the wedding day.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To lift the train of a wedding dress, allowing the gown to function as though it doesn't have one |
| Types | Over bustle, under bustle, wrist bustle, American bustle, French bustle, Austrian bustle, traditional bustle, bow bustle |
| Creation | A series of ribbons, hooks, buttons, ties, snaps, or loops are used to gather and lift the train |
| Considerations | Budget, difficulty, weight of the train, silhouette and train style |
| Who | A skilled seamstress or alterations expert should create the bustle |
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What You'll Learn
Choosing the right bustle style for your dress
Choosing the right bustle for your wedding dress is an important decision. A bustle is added to a wedding dress to lift the train, allowing the bride to move and dance comfortably. It is a good idea to familiarise yourself with the different types of bustles before your first fitting so that you can discuss the options with your seamstress.
The American bustle, also known as an over bustle, is a popular choice. It has hooks at the waistline that enable the train to be lifted and hooked over the top of the gown. This style can have one, three, or even five bustle points for a dramatic look. However, it may not be suitable for heavier trains as it can come loose.
The French bustle, on the other hand, is created with bustle points that pull the train fabric up and under the gown. This style is more secure and less likely to come loose, as it is often secured with bows or ribbons at each bustle point. It is a good choice for heavier trains but may take longer to assemble and will require more explanation to your bridesmaids.
The Ballroom bustle is another option that gives the illusion that the gown was floor-length all along. Multiple bustle points are sewn around the bodice, allowing the fabric to fold into itself delicately.
The Royal or Victorian bustle can be simple or elaborate, with one or multiple pickup points. This style adds drama and dimension to the silhouette, making it perfect for gowns with a statement bow or sash at the back.
Ultimately, the right bustle for your dress will depend on your specific needs and preferences. It is important to consider the weight of your train, the ease of assembly, and the overall look you want to achieve.
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Working with a seamstress to create your bustle
Before your first fitting, it's a good idea to familiarise yourself with the different types of bustles available so you can choose the best option for your dress. During your fitting, your seamstress can help you determine which type of bustle will work best with your gown. The American bustle, for example, is one of the simplest and most versatile options, while the French bustle is formed with bustle points that pull the train fabric up and under the gown. The waterfall bustle is another option that gives the back of your dress a soft, romantic shape and detail. If you want to add drama to the back of your dress, a simple bustle that creates a cascading effect as the fabric folds flow over the rest of the skirt might be a good choice.
To ensure your bustle is done correctly on your wedding day, it's important to bring someone with you to your final alterations fitting so your seamstress can show them how to do it. It's also helpful to take videos of your seamstress doing the bustle so that you or your designated "bustler" can refer back to them if needed. Remember, your seamstress will be your best resource for choosing the ideal bustle option, so don't hesitate to ask any questions you may have.
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Learning how to tie and fasten your bustle
Practice Before the Wedding:
It is essential to practice bustling your dress before the big day. This will ensure a smooth and stress-free process when you need to do it for real. Confusion or difficulties with bustling can cause unwanted delays, so it's best to be prepared. Have the person who will be helping you with the dress on your wedding day present for practice sessions, so they can learn the steps and techniques.
Choose the Right Bustle Style:
Selecting the appropriate bustle style is crucial. Common types include the American bustle (or over-bustle), French bustle (or under-bustle), and Ballroom bustle. The American bustle is one of the simplest and most versatile options, featuring one or more bustle points at the waist or hip line, pulling the train up and over the gown. The French bustle, on the other hand, tucks the train under the fabric and is fastened with ties, creating a poufy effect. The Ballroom bustle creates the illusion of no bustle, meticulously folding the train into the skirt for a seamless look. Consider the design of your dress and your personal preference when choosing a bustle style.
Understand the Complexity and Appearance:
Each bustle style varies in complexity and appearance. Evaluate the structure and fabric of your dress. Heavier materials or intricate details may require a stronger bustle, while lighter fabrics can be supported by simpler methods. Discuss these factors with your seamstress, who can advise on the best type of bustle for your gown's silhouette and train style.
Assign a Helper:
Bustling a dress is often a task for the bridal party or a family member. Assign someone to help you with your dress and ensure they attend your dress fittings to learn how to properly bustle it. This designated person can also take videos of the seamstress bustling the dress for future reference. It is important to have a backup plan, so keep a list of trusted references who can step in if needed.
Fastening Techniques:
When it comes to fastening your bustle, there are a few techniques to consider. For an American bustle, you can use hooks, buttons, or loops placed along the waistline to create elegant pleats. A French bustle typically uses ribbons at each bustle point to hide the attachment and create a seamless look. For a Ballroom bustle, a system of buttons, loops, hooks, and eyes is used, spread out across the waist and throughout the skirt.
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Practicing bustling your dress before your wedding day
Practising bustling your dress before the big day is a great way to ensure you can dance and move around freely during your wedding reception. Here are some tips to help you prepare:
Choose the Right Bustle Style
Before you start practising, it's essential to select the right bustle style for your dress. A skilled seamstress or alterations expert can guide you in choosing a bustle that complements your dress's style, fabric, and silhouette. The type of bustle you choose will determine the steps you need to take to practise bustling your dress.
Schedule a Practice Session
Schedule a practice session with your bridal party a few weeks before the wedding. Invite your bridesmaids, mother, or anyone who will be helping you get dressed on the day of the wedding. During this session, you and your bridal party can learn the steps to bustle the dress flawlessly.
Take Videos and Notes
Ask someone to take videos and notes during the practice session. This way, you and your bridal party can refer back to them on the wedding day. Having a visual reference can be incredibly helpful in ensuring you get it right when the time comes.
Practise with Special Tools
If there are any special tools or techniques required to bustle your dress, make sure to practise with them during your session. This will ensure that your bridal party is comfortable using them on the day and can securely fasten the bustle.
Pay Attention to the Details
When practising, don't forget the important details that contribute to a polished look. For example, learn how to tuck in all the layers neatly so that the lace shows on the outside. Practise walking and moving around with the bustled dress to ensure it stays secure and comfortable.
By following these steps and practising before your wedding day, you can ensure that bustling your dress will be a smooth and stress-free process. It will allow you to focus on enjoying your special day without worrying about your train.
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Troubleshooting a broken bustle
Identify the Issue
First, identify the problem. Is it a simple case of a broken thread or hook, or has the entire bustle come undone? If it's the former, you may be able to fix it with a quick stitch or by using safety pins. If the latter, you may need to start from scratch, so move on to the next steps.
Gather the Right Tools
Ensure you have the necessary tools on hand. This could include a needle and thread, safety pins, or even a small emergency kit that includes these items. Having a bridesmaid or another trusted person on hand who knows how to sew can also be invaluable.
Assess the Type of Bustle
Different types of bustles require different fixes. Identify the type of bustle your dress has. Is it an American or ''over' bustle, a French or 'under' bustle, or perhaps a wrist loop? Knowing this will help determine the best course of action for fixing it.
Re-create the Bustle
If the bustle has completely come undone, you may need to re-create it. If you have a seamstress on hand, they can help. If not, refer to videos or photos from your dress fittings to remember how the bustle was originally done. If you have a complex bustle with multiple points, you may need to simplify it to make it work in a pinch.
Practice and Adjust
Once the bustle is re-created, practice walking and moving to ensure it holds. Make any necessary adjustments to ensure it's comfortable and secure. If you're using safety pins, be mindful of placing them in discreet locations to avoid any unsightly metal showing through.
Remember, while a broken bustle can be a hiccup, it's fixable, and your seamstress or bridal party members can be a great help in troubleshooting. Don't be afraid to ask for assistance, and always be prepared with an emergency kit!
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Frequently asked questions
A bustle is a way to alter a wedding gown with a train to lift the train, allowing the gown to function as though it doesn't have one. It is usually created with hooks, ties, buttons, snaps, or ribbons.
Popular bustle styles for a fit-and-flare wedding dress include the French bustle, the under-bustle, and the wrist bustle. The French bustle is created with bustle points that pull the train fabric up and under the gown. The under-bustle gathers the skirt from underneath, creating a tiered effect on the outside of the skirt. The wrist bustle is created by adding a simple loop to the end of the train, which the bride wears around her wrist.
When choosing a bustle style, consider the weight of your train and the overall silhouette you want to achieve. A seamstress can help you determine which bustle style will work best with your gown. It is also important to have someone who will be present on your wedding day, such as a bridesmaid, learn how to do the bustle during your final fitting.
