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A bustle is a way to secure the train of a wedding dress so that it doesn't drag on the floor, allowing the wearer to move and dance freely. There are several different types of bustles, including the American bustle, French bustle, standard bustle, and royal bustle, each with its own unique look and method of construction. The American bustle, for example, involves lifting the train and hooking it over the back of the dress, while the French bustle tucks the train underneath the silhouette of the gown. The standard bustle is a simple method where the train is tucked under the back of the dress, creating a fuller skirt and a bubble hem effect. Brides can choose the style that best suits their gown and their personal preferences with the help of a skilled seamstress. This process can be tricky, and it is recommended to have a designated person to handle the bustling on the wedding day.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To secure the train of the dress so it doesn't touch the floor |
| Types | Over bustle, under bustle, French bustle, American bustle, standard bustle, royal bustle |
| Materials | Ribbons, hooks, buttons, thread, needle, safety pins, clear fishing line |
| Steps | Attach ties to the underside seam of the skirt, sew eye hooks to the end of the train, tuck the back of the skirt under the dress, attach eye hooks to the ties |
| Tips | Use different coloured ribbons to colour code the ties, prepare an emergency bag with a sewing kit in case the bustle breaks |
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What You'll Learn
Prepare for the possibility of a broken bustle by keeping a sewing kit
Wedding dress bustles are a great way to prepare your bridal gown for the reception, especially if your heart is set on a lengthy or elaborate train. A bustle allows you to move around with ease, securing the train or any extra fabric off the ground and into the back of the dress.
However, accidents can happen, and a broken bustle on your wedding day can be a stressful situation. To prepare for this possibility, it is essential to have a sewing kit on hand. Here are some tips to help you be ready for any bustle-related emergencies:
- Basic Sewing Kit: Assemble a small sewing kit that includes needles, threads in various colours to match your dress, safety pins, scissors, and any other small tools that might be useful. Keep this kit easily accessible on your wedding day, and consider assigning someone to be in charge of it.
- Assign a Designated "Bustler": Ensure that you have someone designated to help with bustling your dress, and they should be present at your dress fittings to learn how to properly bustle your dress. This person can also be in charge of the sewing kit and any necessary repairs.
- Practice with the Sewing Kit: Before the wedding day, familiarize yourself with basic sewing techniques and practice sewing a few stitches on a scrap fabric similar to your dress fabric. This will help you feel more confident in making any necessary repairs.
- Clean Workspace: When making any alterations or repairs to your wedding dress, always use clean or gloved hands and maintain a very clean workspace. This will help prevent any stains or dirt from accidentally transferring to your dress.
- Safety Pins for Marking: If you need to make quick adjustments or repairs to your bustle, safety pins can be handy. Use them to mark or hold the dress fabric as needed, allowing you to create temporary folds or hold fabric in place while you sew.
- Know Your Bustle Type: Different types of bustles have unique repair considerations. For example, an American bustle with multiple hooks or an over bustle with ribbons may require different sewing techniques. Understanding your bustle type will help you tailor your repairs.
By following these tips and keeping a sewing kit on hand, you can be prepared for any broken bustle emergencies on your wedding day. Remember to stay calm and focus on enjoying your special day, even in the face of unexpected hiccups!
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Learn how to make a loop and attach a button
To make a loop, cut 2 1/2" (6.5 cm) of ribbon and fold it in half. Stitch the ribbon loop to the underside of the dress's train, attaching it 1/2" (1.3 cm) below each pin mark. Reinforce the loop by attaching it to the seam allowances of the dress or by adding a small piece of interfacing. Repeat this process for all the loops.
To attach a button, place a safety pin on the back of the dress, about a foot above the bride's knees, to mark where the button will go. Thread the needle and knot the end of the thread. Then, thread the needle through the underside of the dress and attach the button using the needle and thread. Stitch the button securely four times. Reinforce the button by running the needle and thread through to the other side of the fabric and making two knots. Cut off any excess thread.
You can also sew the button onto the waist of the dress and the loop onto the train. To do this, assemble the facing by cutting your facing pieces (one from fabric and one from interfacing) using a pattern. Apply the fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric and serge or zigzag the outer edge to prevent fraying. Fold your facing in half to mark the center and do the same with the back panel of the dress. Pin the two centers together, right sides facing. Slide the button loop, folded in half, under the left side of your facing and pin it in place, ensuring it is 3/8" (neckline seam allowance) from the neckline edge. Adjust the length of the loop to ensure the button fits through and leave 3/8" (1 cm) tails for the seam allowance.
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Learn how to make ties and loops with ribbon
To make ties and loops with ribbon, you can follow these steps:
First, cut your ribbon to the desired length, leaving enough extra ribbon for the knot and any embellishments. If you want to prevent the edges from fraying, use pinking shears or a fray stopper. Next, fold the ribbon in half lengthwise, with the right sides facing each other. This will make it easier to work with and create a neater finish.
Now, you can start forming the loops and ties. Take one end of the ribbon and curl it over to create the center loop, pinching it at the base. This will be the starting point for your loops. Make sure the ribbon is not twisted and the front side of the fabric is facing up. Then, twist the ribbon and fold it under to create the first loop.
To make the second loop, twist the ribbon again so that the front side faces out, and pinch it in the center. You will need to twist the ribbon after each loop to ensure the front side remains visible. Create the second loop on the opposite side of the first, making sure both loops are the same length.
To secure the loops, tie a knot at the top, forming an X shape. Ensure the knot is not too tight, so it can slide easily over what you are tying it around. You can also use a small piece of florist wire or thin string to tie the loops together at the center for added security.
Finally, cut off any excess ribbon or loose threads to create a polished look. You can also add embellishments such as beads, charms, or a dab of glue to ensure the knot stays in place.
There are also a few different types of bows you can create with ribbon, such as the diagonal bow, the horizontal bow, and the Ian knot. The diagonal bow involves lacing the ribbon over the corners of a box, creating a complete look. The horizontal bow is a simple knot with a loop, perfect for gift wrapping. The Ian knot is similar to a shoelace knot but makes it easier to create symmetrical loops with tails on the same side.
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Understand the difference between an over and under bustle
A bustle is an alteration made to the back of a wedding dress to lift the train off the ground and secure it to the dress. This allows the bride to move around freely without tripping over her dress. There are several types of bustles, but the two main categories are the over bustle and the under bustle.
The over bustle, also known as the American bustle, is created by attaching an eye hook or button to the outside of the dress, near the lower back. The lower tie is then attached halfway down the back of the skirt. The hook and eye are connected, lifting the underside of the skirt off the floor. This style creates a cascading effect and is popular among brides as it works with many types of bridal gown silhouettes. Ribbons are not commonly used for an over bustle as they would be visible; instead, a hook-and-eye system is typically used.
The under bustle, also known as the French bustle or Victorian bustle, is the opposite of the American style. It is created by tucking the train under itself instead of over. This style results in an understated, two-layer hem that creates a beautiful design in the back. Seamstresses often add colour-coordinated ribbons or numbers underneath the gown, making it easy to match each hook with its pair when bustling the dress. The French bustle is perfect for gowns with embellishments near the waist and is a good option for dresses with minimal trains.
Both the over and under bustle techniques can be used to create a dramatic or understated look, depending on the desired effect. The over bustle creates a cascading effect, while the under bustle results in a two-layer hem. The over bustle is typically achieved with a hook-and-eye system, while the under bustle often uses ribbons to secure the train.
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Know how to attach hooks and eyes to your wedding dress
Hooks and eyes are commonly used in clothing to fasten two edges together. They are inconspicuous, secure, and can withstand a good amount of stress. They are perfect fasteners for wedding dresses as they can be used for overlapping or adjacent edges.
- Choose a hook and eye closure that is sturdy and the least noticeable on your dress. Opt for one that can withstand the wear and tear of the fabric.
- Pick a thread that matches the colour of your fabric. Use a hand needle and double thread it.
- Tie a knot at the bottom of the thread and trim the excess thread close to the knot.
- Iron the edges of the fabric where you will attach the hook and eye closure.
- Place the hook on the underside, right side of the fabric about 1/8 inch away from the fabric's edge.
- Thread the needle through the fabric and hoop in a repeated circular motion to secure the hook.
- Tie off the thread and cut the excess.
- Attach the eye to the hook and mark where the eye falls on the dress.
- Unhook the eye and place it on the marked spot. Secure it with your fingers.
- Thread the needle again and sew around one of the loops a few times.
- Use a blanket stitch around both loops on the eye.
- Finish by stitching around the sides of the eye 2-3 times.
- Tie off the thread and cut the excess.
Some additional tips to consider:
- You can use embroidery cotton in a pastel colour on the wrong side of the skirt to mark where the attachments are. This will make it easier for you to find them.
- If your dress has a lining or neckline facing, sew a short piece of ribbon behind the zipper on the inside at the top of the dress. Attach the hook near the hemmed end of the ribbon.
- You can paint a large silver hook with white nail polish to match the colour of your dress.
By following these steps, you can securely attach hooks and eyes to your wedding dress, ensuring a seamless and elegant finish.
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