Franklin Dean
A wedding dress bustle is a process of altering a bridal gown to function as if it had no train. This is usually done by fastening the train to the rest of the dress so that the bride can walk freely without tripping over her dress. Wedding dresses can be bustled in a variety of ways, including the American bustle, French bustle, Austrian bustle, and Ballroom bustle. The type of bustle chosen often depends on the silhouette of the wedding dress. For example, a lace sheath wedding dress can be bustled in any style, depending on its silhouette. However, if the gown has a lace border that the bride wants to show off, a train flip bustle should be avoided.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To secure the fabric of the gown's train, allowing the bride to move around with ease and preventing the dress from getting soiled |
| When to bustle | Between the wedding and reception, after the ceremony and photos |
| Who does it | Seamstress, or a trusted individual like a bridesmaid or family member |
| Types of bustles | American, French, Ballroom, Austrian, Over |
| American/Over bustle | One or more bustle points at the waist or hip line, pulling the train up and over the rest of the gown |
| French bustle | Bustle points pull the train fabric up and under the gown |
| Ballroom bustle | Multiple bustle points are sewn around the bodice, allowing the fabric to fold into itself |
| Austrian bustle | Running a ribbon through a back seam and pulling it through to create ruching |
| Train attachment | Hooks, ties, buttons, snaps, ribbons |
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What You'll Learn
- Choosing the right bustle style for your lace sheath wedding dress
- Finding a skilled seamstress to add the bustle to your dress
- Attaching ties, eye hooks, buttons, or ribbons to your dress
- Practising bustling your dress before the wedding day
- Assigning a bridesmaid or family member to bustle your dress on the day
Choosing the right bustle style for your lace sheath wedding dress
Choosing the right bustle for your lace sheath wedding dress is an important decision that can play a far greater role in your big day than you might expect. Wedding dresses with long trains are often the hardest to move around in, and a bustle can help secure the fabric of your gown's train, giving you the freedom to move around with ease.
There are several types of bustles, each of which looks a bit different but benefits the wearer of the dress in the same basic way. The style you choose determines how the train will be tied up to make the front and the back of the gown close to the same length. Bustles can be created using buttons, hooks, loops, ties, ribbons, and more.
The American bustle, also known as the over bustle, is generally the simplest style. A one-point over bustle is best for lighter fabrics, while a three-point bustle will help with heavier fabric and allow you to see more of a detailed train spread out over the back of the dress. Any number of points can be added to an over bustle, but the price goes up with each additional button.
The French bustle, also known as the under bustle, is the opposite of the American bustle in that it is far easier to pull off when the train is minimal as this style tucks under instead of over. This style is perfect for lace and satin gowns and is simple and sweet. However, it is less desirable if you have intricate details near the hemline, as these will be far less visible once the bustle is applied.
If you want to defy expectations with a truly unique wedding dress, the Austrian bustle is for you. This look is quite rare due to its complicated design, but it can be worth the extra effort and cost as its intricate look is sure to make a statement. It involves a drawstring, which can be pulled up to form ruffles, and works well with sheath silhouettes.
Ultimately, it is important to trust your seamstress to recommend the best type of bustle for the silhouette of your gown, the amount of fabric, and how you plan to wear your dress.
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Finding a skilled seamstress to add the bustle to your dress
Adding a bustle to your wedding dress is a complex process that requires skill and experience, so it's important to find a skilled seamstress or tailor who can execute this task flawlessly. Here are some tips to help you find the right professional for the job:
Seek Recommendations and Referrals
Word-of-mouth recommendations are a great way to find trusted seamstresses. Ask around in your circle of friends and family, especially those who have recently been married or had their dresses altered. They can provide firsthand accounts of their experiences and the quality of work. You can also ask the bridal boutique where you purchased your dress for referrals. They often have a network of experienced seamstresses they can recommend.
Research and Reviews
Take advantage of online resources, such as The Knot Marketplace, which allows you to search for alterations services in your area. Read reviews from other brides to get an idea of the seamstress's skill level, especially regarding wedding dress alterations and bustle additions.
Schedule a Consultation in Advance
Consult with potential seamstresses well in advance of your wedding. During the consultation, discuss your desired alterations, including adding a bustle. A skilled seamstress will be able to advise you on the best type of bustle for your dress's silhouette, fabric, and your personal preferences. They should also provide a clear timeline for the alterations process.
Trust the Seamstress's Expertise
While it's important to have an idea of the bustle style you prefer, trust the seamstress's expertise. They have the experience to recommend the most suitable bustle type for your dress's silhouette, fabric, and your personal preferences. They will consider factors such as the amount of fabric, the gown's silhouette, and your plans for wearing the dress.
Ensure Proper Fittings
Early and regular fittings are crucial. During your first fitting, the seamstress will carefully assess the fit of the dress and suggest alterations accordingly. This is also when you can discuss bustle options in detail. Subsequent fittings will allow for adjustments and ensure a flawless fit for your special day.
By following these steps, you can find a skilled seamstress to add the bustle to your lace sheath wedding dress, ensuring that your dress is not only beautiful but also comfortable and functional for your wedding day.
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Attaching ties, eye hooks, buttons, or ribbons to your dress
Attaching Ties
You can attach a tie to the underside of your skirt, ensuring it remains invisible from the outside. Position the tie so that when the bustle is completed, your skirt hem is slightly off the floor. You can sew it into the seam of the skirt for a discreet look. This method works well for skirts without a lot of tulle underneath, as tulle can affect the natural fall of the dress when bustled.
Sewing Eye Hooks
Eye hooks can be sewn to the end of the train, preferably concealed with embroidery, beading, or other creative decorations. If your train is heavy, be sure to use a sturdy eye hook that can bear the weight. You can also attach a lower tie halfway down the back of the skirt and connect it to the eye hook, pulling the tie to create a bunched effect.
Using Buttons
Buttons are a popular choice, especially if there are few places to hide hooks on the dress. They look natural and can be sewn onto the back of the dress, about halfway down. For lighter dresses without long trains, a single button on the upper part of the back of the skirt can be used to create an over bustle.
Working with Ribbons
Although less common, ribbons can also be used to create a bustle. You can sew a ribbon across the back of the dress and loop the train through it to hold it up. However, ribbons may be more visible, so consider using ties, hooks, or eyes for a more discreet look.
Remember, when attaching any of these elements, it's important to consult a skilled seamstress who can recommend the best options for your specific dress and help you achieve the desired look.
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Practising bustling your dress before the wedding day
Choose the Right Bustle Style
Before you begin practising, it's crucial to select the appropriate bustle style for your lace sheath wedding dress. The type of bustle will depend on the silhouette of your gown, the amount of fabric, and your personal preferences. Consult with your seamstress to determine the best option for your dress. Some common bustle styles include the American bustle, French bustle, and Austrian bustle, each creating a unique effect.
Delegate the Task
Designate a trusted individual, such as your maid of honour, a bridesmaid, or a family member, to be your "bustle assistant." This person should attend your final dress fittings and alterations appointments to learn the technique directly from your seamstress. They can also take notes, photos, or videos during these sessions to refer back to on the wedding day.
Practise with Your Bridal Party
Involve your bridal party in bustling practice sessions. Schedule a “Bustle School Practice" with your chosen assistant(s) a few weeks before the wedding. During this practice session, your seamstress or bridal boutique can guide you and your bridal party through the bustling process, demonstrating the steps and providing special tools and tips. Take videos during the practice to create a reference guide for the wedding day.
Prepare an Emergency Kit
Assemble an emergency kit that includes safety pins, hooks, a thread and needle, and other small but essential items. These can be lifesavers if any fasteners come loose or if last-minute repairs are needed on the day of the wedding. Choose threads that match your dress colour to make any fixes invisible.
Test the Dress in Advance
Before the wedding day, test the dress to identify any potential weak points or issues. This will help you address them beforehand and ensure that the bustling process goes smoothly. Practising in advance will also give you a realistic idea of how much time bustling will take, allowing you to build it into your wedding timeline and avoid feeling rushed.
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Assigning a bridesmaid or family member to bustle your dress on the day
Choose the Right Person
Select a trusted individual, usually a bridesmaid, maid of honour, parent, or close friend, to be your "designated bustler". Choose someone who is reliable and attentive to detail.
Include Them in Your Final Fitting
Ensure that your designated bustler attends your final alterations appointment with your seamstress. This will allow them to learn directly from the expert and gain hands-on practice before your wedding day. They can also take notes, videos, or pictures of the process to refer back to on the day.
Set a Plan and Schedule
Work with your designated bustler to set a clear plan for bustling your dress on the day. Decide on the timing, such as between the ceremony and reception, and ensure you have allowed enough time for the task. Communicate this schedule to your wedding party so that the designated bustlers are available when needed.
Practice and Preparation
Encourage your designated bustler to practice bustling the dress using the techniques they learned from the seamstress. This will help them become familiar with your specific dress and ensure a smooth process on the wedding day.
Backup Plan
While your designated bustler will be well-prepared, it is always a good idea to have a backup plan. Consider assigning a second person to learn the bustling process as a backup in case the primary person is occupied or needs assistance.
By following these steps, you can ensure that your dress will be bustled beautifully and efficiently on your wedding day, allowing you to move and dance with ease.
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Frequently asked questions
A bustle on a wedding dress is a way of altering the dress to lift the train, allowing the bride to move around and dance without tripping over her dress.
There are several types of bustles, including the American or over bustle, the French bustle, the ballroom bustle, and the Austrian bustle. The American bustle is one of the most popular and versatile styles, with one or more bustle points at the waist or hip line, meant to pull the train up and over the rest of the gown. The French bustle is formed with bustle points that pull the train fabric up and under the gown, often created with ribbons at each bustle point. The ballroom bustle gives the illusion that the dress was a floor-length gown without a train, with multiple bustle points sewn around the bodice. The Austrian bustle is more complicated to create but easy to use and involves running a ribbon through a back seam to create a ruched look.
A dress with a lace overlay can be bustled in any style, depending on the silhouette of the wedding dress. If your gown has a lace border that you want to show off, avoid a train flip bustle. If your dress has buttons down the back, it may be more difficult to execute certain bustle styles, so consider sticking to a classic American or French-style bustle.
