The Best Man's Guide To Buttoning Up

The best man's suit is an important part of the wedding aesthetic, and there are several options to choose from. The number of buttons on a suit jacket typically ranges from one to three, with each style having its own set of buttoning rules. A single-button suit jacket, for instance, should always be buttoned when standing, while a two-button jacket should have only the top button fastened. A three-button jacket follows the rule of sometimes, always, never, meaning the top button is optional, the middle button is always buttoned, and the bottom button is never fastened. For a double-breasted suit, which usually has four or eight buttons, all buttons are typically fastened, although leaving the bottom button undone is also considered acceptable.

Single-breasted suits

One-Button Suits

The one-button suit is the easiest to remember. The button should always be fastened when standing, and unfastened when seated. This helps maintain a balanced and proportional look. One-button suits are usually slightly longer than other suit jackets, and buttoning up keeps the jacket even and minimises wrinkles.

Two-Button Suits

For two-button suits, the top button should always be buttoned when standing, while the bottom button is left undone. Buttoning the bottom button can restrict your movement and create an unflattering silhouette. This is because modern suits are designed and cut with the expectation that the bottom button will be left unfastened.

Three-Button Suits

With three-button suits, you have two options. You can either button the top and middle buttons, leaving the bottom one unfastened, or simply button the middle button. If your suit has a flat lapel, it generally looks better to button the top two buttons. On the other hand, if your lapel has a soft roll that extends past the first button, it is advisable to only button the middle one.

Four or More Button Suits

While suits with four or more buttons were once common, they are now considered unusual and are generally not recommended for business environments. If you do choose to wear one, remember to leave the bottom button unfastened.

Additional Tips

Regardless of the number of buttons, there are a few general rules to keep in mind. Firstly, it is customary to unbutton your suit jacket when sitting down to avoid creasing and to allow for more comfortable movement. Secondly, single-breasted suits should always be buttoned when standing, as leaving the jacket open can look sloppy and expose your belly. Lastly, always remember to leave the bottom button of a single-breasted suit undone, unless it is a one-button suit.

Two-button suits

The two-button suit is a versatile option, suitable for a range of body types and occasions. It is the most popular choice in menswear today, particularly for business clothing. The two buttons fall lower on the jacket, creating a deep V shape, and the longer lapels help to give a slimming effect, making the wearer appear taller.

The top button of a two-button suit should always be buttoned when standing, and the bottom button should be left undone. This is because suits are cut so that the fabric doesn't drape properly when the bottom button is fastened, and it can cause the sides to flare out, throwing your silhouette out of proportion. The only exception to this rule is for very tall men, who may need to use the lower button to prevent the jacket from spreading out above their waist.

The two-button suit is a good option for less formal, business casual events, as well as everyday professional wear. It is also suitable for formal events such as weddings.

When it comes to colour, two-button suits come in a variety of shades, including tan, French blue, burgundy, black, royal blue, grey, and navy.

In terms of style, the two-button suit can be paired with a vest and trousers to create a three-piece suit, or it can be worn as a single-breasted jacket with a pair of trousers.

Three-button suits

The three-button suit is best suited to taller men, giving them a more balanced and filled-out look. It is also a good choice for those with an athletic build. However, if you have a shorter or larger torso, this suit style is not the best option. The three-button suit has shorter lapels and a shallower V, which can make you appear shorter.

When it comes to buttoning a three-button suit, the rule is "sometimes, always, never". This refers to each of the three buttons. The top button is optional, the middle button should always be buttoned, and the bottom button should never be fastened. It is also important to unbutton all buttons when sitting down to avoid creasing and ruining the suit's silhouette.

Four or more button suits

While four-button suits are not in style, there are rules for buttoning them. If your four-button suit has a high-button stance and a firmly pressed lapel fold, button them all except the bottom button.

In general, it is unusual to wear a jacket with more than three buttons. However, if you feel inclined to wear one with four or more buttons, remember to leave the bottom button undone.

For a three-button suit, the rule is "sometimes, always, never", meaning you may button the top button, should always button the middle button, and never button the bottom one.

For a two-button suit, the traditional way to button it is to fasten the top button and leave the lower one undone. The top button should always be buttoned when standing, and the jacket should be unbuttoned when sitting down to avoid creases.

For a one-button suit, the button should be fastened when standing and unbuttoned when sitting down.

Double-breasted suits

When wearing a double-breasted suit, it is important to leave the bottom exterior button unfastened, just as you would with a single-breasted suit. This gives you some much-needed mobility and allows for a snug but not constricting fit. If you leave all the buttons done, you will look like you have been strapped in or have wiggled into a casing.

When standing, button the middle two buttons of your double-breasted suit and leave the top and bottom buttons open. If you sit down, unbutton all the buttons to allow for more room to move. The middle button acts as a "corset," helping to tighten up any loose areas in your stomach.

When choosing a double-breasted suit, opt for a modern style with wide shoulders but a less boxy look. Older double-breasted suits may require extra tailoring to achieve a more contemporary silhouette.

Frequently asked questions