Lyla Dejesus
In Ancient Rome, clothing denoted one's social status, with specific expectations for brides on their wedding day. The bridal outfit was expected to reflect the virtues of chastity, modesty, and familial love. Brides wore a white, woollen tunica recta, which they wove themselves to demonstrate domestic skills. Their hair was adorned with flowers and herbs, and they wore a veil, or flammeum, to indicate modesty. Brides also wore a wreath of flowers, with roses, iris, violets, poppies, and wildflowers as popular choices. The bridal hairstyle was also important, with some sources suggesting that brides wore their hair short, while others describe long hair.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Fabric | Woolen, muslin-like, linen |
| Color | White, off-white, yellow-red, orange-red |
| Style | One-piece, sleeveless, knee-length, toga-style |
| Accessories | Veil, wreath, bouquet of herbs, sandals |
| Symbolism | Purity, virginity, faithfulness, fertility |
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What You'll Learn
Bridal hairstyle and headgear
Bridal hairstyles and headgear were a key part of ancient Roman weddings. The bridal hairstyle, known as the 'tutulus', was a very specific design and was worn exclusively by brides. To create the 'tutulus', the bride's hair was divided into six locks using a spearhead, likely a symbol of expelling any remaining evil spirits. The locks were then curled and coiled on top of the head, with a few tendrils left loose around the face and neck.
The wedding veil, called the 'flammeum', was another symbol of the bride's submission to her husband. It was always flame-coloured, symbolising faithfulness and fertility, and shrouded the bride from head to foot. Sources vary as to whether the veil covered the bride's face until the moment of marriage, but it is believed that this was part of ancient traditions.
In addition to the veil, Roman brides often wore a piece of headgear called the 'corolla', a crown made of herbs, flowers, and foliage that the bride herself had picked. This is supported by artistic evidence, such as the "Sarcophagus of the Brothers", an ancient Roman sarcophagus in Naples, which depicts a woman identified as Venus crowning a bride or married wife with a garland of flowers. Other Roman depictions of wedding ceremonies also show the 'corolla' being worn by the groom, indicating that it may not have been exclusive to brides.
Another type of crown mentioned in ancient texts is the 'Corona Turrita', described as a "towering crown". It is exclusively mentioned in the works of Lucan and later scholiasts, who comment that it was bridal gear. Baltic German archaeologist Hans Dragendorff proposed that this type of large headgear was connected to ancient traditions of depicting goddesses with similar pieces.
Overall, the bridal hairstyle and headgear in ancient Rome were highly symbolic and played a crucial role in wedding ceremonies.
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Wedding veils
The bridal veil is one of the most recognisable elements of a traditional wedding ensemble. Its origins are believed to be rooted in Roman times, with the Roman bride's veil known as a "flammeum". The flammeum is thought to have been flame-coloured, with the colour symbolising the couple's intent to remain married for life. The veil was also believed to have apotropaic powers, protecting the bride from evil spirits.
In ancient Rome, the ideal bride was a virgin and was expected to display fear and joy about the upcoming wedding. Authors and artists often described and depicted brides with tears and blushes beneath their veils, emphasising their shame and modesty. The veil thus served to conceal the bride's face and protect her from evil spirits, ensuring her happiness. Over time, the veil became a symbol of the bride's chastity and modesty.
The flammeum was also associated with faithfulness and fertility. It is believed to have covered the bride from head to toe, making her appear as if she were on fire. Alternatively, it may have been made to match the bride's height so it could be reused as her burial shroud. Literary references to the flammeum suggest it was a prominent part of bridal attire in ancient Rome.
In addition to the flammeum, Roman brides wore a wreath, a yellow hairnet, and a hairstyle called "sex crines", which may have been adopted from the Vestal Virgins to symbolise purity and virginity. The hair was arranged with locks and fillets, or bands, in the fashion of a married woman.
Today, wedding veils remain a popular accessory, with many brides incorporating them into their wedding attire as a nod to tradition or to accentuate their dress. Veils are often passed down through generations, adding a sense of family history to the wedding day.
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Flowers and fragrance
The Romans viewed flowers as an expression of conviviality and liberal generosity. Flowers were also used to anoint the dead. In Greek and Latin poetry, roses were said to grow in the blessed afterlife of the Elysian Fields.
The bridal veil, known as the flammeum, was yellow-red in colour, symbolising faithfulness and fertility. The god Hymen, the leader to the bedrooms, was often portrayed wearing the flammeum, with his head covered by a wreath made from marjoram.
The bride's wedding day began with a fragranced bath at her parents' home, attended by her mother and female friends. The bath was believed to wash away evil influences and leave the bride smelling wholesome. Brides would also wear floral-based perfumes or bath oils to complement their bouquet.
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Tunic and toga
In Ancient Rome, the basic garment for both men and women was the tunic. The tunic was a single rectangle of woven fabric, originally made of wool, but later, from the mid-republic onwards, linen was used. It was sleeveless, with openings for the neck and arms, and fell to the knees for men and boys, and longer for women and girls.
The toga was a distinctive garment of Ancient Rome, draped over the body and usually worn over a tunic. It was a symbol of Roman civil rights and morality. The length and style of the toga varied according to the season, with lighter fabrics worn in summer and heavier fabrics in winter. The type of toga worn also indicated a citizen's rank in the civil hierarchy. The toga was considered Rome's "national costume", but for day-to-day activities, most Romans preferred the more practical tunic.
On formal occasions, adult male citizens could wear a woollen toga, draped over their tunic. The toga was also an important symbol of virginity and purity. On her wedding day, the bride wore a white tunic called a tunica recta, which she wove herself. The tunic was tied with a double knot around the hips, with a belt called a zona, which only the groom was allowed to untie. The tunica recta was considered a symbol of the bride's weaving skills.
The stola was a long, heavy dress that covered the tunic, and was considered a symbol of female virtue as it covered the body modestly. It was worn by married citizen women, with a woollen mantle called a palla draped over it.
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Colour and fabric
The bridal attire of ancient Rome was fairly simple, with the bride's dress being no exception. The fabric used for Roman clothing changed from season to season: in summer, people wore the toga rasa, a very light fabric; in winter, they wore the toga pexa, usually made of wool. The basic garment for both genders and all classes was the tunica (tunic), which was originally made of wool but later made from linen.
The ancient Roman wedding dress was a white or off-white one-piece unfitted tunic, made of a muslin-like material, and tied at the waist with a girdle. The girdle was tied by the bride's mother using the "knot of Hercules", which symbolised the bride's purity, and could only be untied by her new husband on the wedding night. The dress was long, covering the bride from head to toe. It was likely tied around the bust, waist, or hips, and was possibly toga-style.
The colour of the dress was ivory or white, though one source suggests that silver was the colour of choice for bridal attire. Another source indicates that purple was the colour of the dress. In addition to the dress, the bride wore a yellow-red wedding veil, known as the flammeum, which symbolised faithfulness and fertility. The veil was likely a larger scarf than a small veil. The bride also wore a wreath, a hairnet, and a headpiece called the corolla, a crown made of herbs, flowers, and foliage personally handpicked by the bride.
The bride's shoes were simple sandals, likely dyed to match the veil. One source describes the bride's shoes as being orange-red in colour.
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Frequently asked questions
Roman brides wore a white, woollen robe called a tunica recta, which they wove themselves to demonstrate domestic skill. They also wore a veil, called a flammeum, which was considered an integral part of the bridal outfit, indicating modesty.
Roman wedding dresses were white, but brides also wore colourful veils. For example, one source describes a yellow-coloured veil with purple trim.
Roman brides wore their hair in an up-do, with tiny tendrils framing their face. They also wore a wreath of flowers and herbs, which they had gathered themselves.
