Lyla Dejesus
Sewing a wedding dress with lace can be a challenging task, especially given the variety of lace types and sewing techniques available. One popular method for achieving a seamless look is the appliqué seam, which involves zig-zag stitching around the pattern and trimming away excess lace close to the seam. To avoid visible seams, some sewists opt for hand stitching or use French seams, which create a neat and elegant finish. When working with lace, it's important to consider the lace type, as some varieties may unravel or require special techniques like mounting or appliquéing to secure the lace effectively. Planning and adapting patterns to accommodate the lace design, such as the lace border, can also enhance the final look of the dress.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Lace type | Embroidered mesh, French lace, cotton lace, polyester lace |
| Lace pattern | Floral, botanical, net with widely spaced flowers |
| Techniques | Appliqué, zig-zag, French seams, hand sewing, machine sewing |
| Seam type | Invisible seams, appliqué seams, French seams |
| Zipper type | Lapped zipper installation, pick-stitched zipper |
| Challenges | Unraveling lace, visible seams, matching lace patterns |
| Time required | Time-consuming, requires planning and multiple steps |
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What You'll Learn
Choosing the right lace fabric
Cost
The cost of your wedding dress will depend on the labour involved and the cost of materials used, such as fabric, lining, trim, ribbons, and buttons. Consult your dressmaker to understand how much fabric is required for different models and choose a gown that fits your budget.
Colour
Lace comes in an array of colours, including white, ivory, and blush. Choose a colour that complements your wedding palette and personal style.
Weight
Consider the weight of the lace fabric, which determines how heavy and stiff it feels. Heavier laces provide more structure and support, while lighter laces offer a softer and more delicate appearance.
Weave
The weave of the fabric affects its look and feel. Lace typically has an open weave with visible spaces between the weaves and is often woven from cotton, silk, or rayon.
Stretch
Some laces have stretch and are flexible, while others are non-stretch and do not have any give. Consider the desired fit and movement of your wedding dress when selecting the lace.
Type of Lace
There are various types of lace to choose from, each with unique characteristics. For example, Chantilly lace is known for its delicate and intricate floral patterns, while Venetian lace is a stiff lace with embroidered patterns. Consider the style and overall look you want to achieve with the lace fabric.
Remember to choose a lace fabric that aligns with your vision, flatters your figure, and complements the design of your wedding dress.
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Planning the approach
Planning is key when sewing a wedding dress with lace. Firstly, it is important to be aware of the different types of lace and their properties. For example, some laces unravel, so it is important to be careful when trimming. It is also worth noting that lace can be expensive, so planning is essential to avoid costly mistakes.
When planning the design, it is important to consider the placement of the lace. For example, if using a lace border, you may want it to be visible at the hem of the dress. This can be achieved by cutting the lace border and pivoting it up to the cut hemline, as seen in one project where the lace was trimmed and then appliquéd. In another project, the lace border was used as the bottom hem of the dress, with the skirt pattern pieces stitched together and the lace placed on top. This required careful planning to ensure the lace border aligned with the hem.
Another consideration is the type of seam to use. A normal seam can look unsightly with lace, as the raw edges may be visible. One method to join lace seamlessly is to use an appliqué seam, which involves zig-zagging around the shapes of the pattern and trimming away the excess close to the seam. This technique was used in one project, where the lace was mounted on tulle for support, and motifs were hand-stitched to disguise narrow zigzagged seams. Another option is to use French seams, which can work well with open lace.
Finally, it is important to consider the placement of any zippers or closures. In one project, the lace overlay was separate from the zipper, which required careful installation. Another dress featured a placket with snaps and decorative buttons, with a zipper that was pick-stitched in place for a more elegant finish.
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Joining lace seamlessly
When you are ready to start sewing, set up your sewing machine with a thinner needle, such as a size 60/8, 65/9, or 70/10. Use a medium width and length zigzag setting to sew the edges of the lace to the fabric. You can also use a straight stitch, but this will usually result in a visible seam. If you want to avoid this, try a "'lace invisible seam" technique. First, mark the pattern lines on the lace by running a contrast-color basting stitch along each stitch line. This will help you sew the lace seams without straight-line seam allowances, which will show through the translucent fabric.
If you are joining two pieces of lace together, you might need to overlap the pieces slightly to achieve a seamless look. Try different ways of connecting the lace before you sew to see which option looks best. You can also use motifs to disguise seams, direct the eye across the body, and fill in blank spots. These can be hand-stitched onto the dress form to allow for sculpting.
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Sewing the lace to the skirt
Sewing lace to a wedding dress skirt can be a challenging task, but with careful planning and the right techniques, it can be done successfully. Here is a step-by-step guide to sewing lace to the skirt of a wedding dress:
- Prepare the skirt fabric: Lay out the skirt fabric and lace, and decide on the desired length of the skirt. If using a lace border, consider whether you need to cut and re-attach it to achieve the desired shape. Mark the seam lines with a contrasting thread, such as blue, to guide your stitching.
- Choose a suitable seam technique: To achieve an invisible seam, consider using the lace invisible seam method or French seams, especially if the lace is open and the motifs don't match. This will ensure that the seams blend seamlessly into the lace pattern.
- Stitch the seams: Follow the marked seam lines and carefully stitch the lace to the skirt fabric. Take your time and consider hand sewing for more precision and control. Ensure that the lace motifs are aligned correctly and decide which motifs to sew down and which to trim away.
- Handle the skirt side seams: If you want the lace overlay to be separate from the skirt lining, consider using French seams on the open lace. This will allow the lace to float freely from the waist, creating a delicate and elegant effect.
- Add a train or a slit: If the bride desires a train, consider making the lace overlay slightly longer than the underskirt to create a train-like feel. Alternatively, you can add a slit at the waist, closed with snaps or decorative buttons, to provide ease of movement while maintaining the elegance of the lace skirt.
- Attach the lace to the zipper: If the skirt has a zipper, carefully sew it into the fabric of the skirt, ensuring that the lace overlay remains free of the zipper. Hand stitching may be easier and more precise for this step.
Remember that sewing lace can be intricate work, and it is normal to encounter challenges along the way. Take your time, plan carefully, and don't be afraid to seek guidance from sewing communities or reference books if needed.
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Adding the finishing touches
Seaming the Lace
Seaming lace can be a challenging task, especially when creating an all-over lace effect. To achieve a seamless finish, it is recommended to use an appliqué seam technique. This involves zig-zagging around the shapes of the pattern and then trimming away the excess material close to the seam. This method ensures that the raw edges of the lace are not visible, creating a neat and elegant appearance.
Working with the Lace Border
If you plan to use the lace border as the bottom hem of your dress, you may need to cut the edging off the lace first. This is particularly important if you have a circular hem and a straight edging, as seen in a mermaid-style wedding dress. After cutting and sewing the skirt, you can sew the edging back on, forming the hem. If your edging is narrow, you may not need to make any adjustments. However, if it is wide, you might need to gather it on the seam to follow the shape of the pattern piece accurately.
Adding Support and Disguising Seams
To add structure and support to your lace wedding dress, consider mounting the lace on tulle. This will provide a stable base for the lace and enhance the overall look of the dress. Additionally, motifs can be strategically placed to disguise any visible seams, direct the eye across the body, and fill in any blank spots. These motifs can be hand-stitched onto the dress form to achieve the desired sculpting and accentuate the design's organic placements.
Incorporating Sentimental Lace
If you have sentimental lace pieces, such as those from family members' wedding dresses, you can incorporate them into your design. You can add lace appliqués or use them as overlays to create a unique and meaningful touch to your wedding dress.
Adding Functional Details
Don't forget to add functional details to your wedding dress, such as closures and buttons, to ensure it is not only beautiful but also practical and secure. A waist stay is another excellent finishing touch, as it helps keep the dress comfortably in place while reducing strain on the closures. You can even embroider the initials of the couple and their wedding date inside the dress as a special touch.
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Frequently asked questions
The best way to sew lace to a wedding dress will depend on the style of the dress and the type of lace. Some laces can be sewn by machine, but hand-stitching is often preferred for a more elegant finish. There are several methods for joining lace seamlessly, including the appliqué seam method, French seams, and the lace invisible seam method.
A normal seam will usually look unsightly on a lace wedding dress, as the raw edges will be visible. One way to avoid this is to use the appliqué seam method, which involves zig-zagging around the shapes of the pattern and trimming away the excess close to the seam. Another option is to use French seams, which are suitable for open lace.
If your lace has a border that you want to use as the bottom hem of your dress, you can follow these steps: cut the lace border, adapt the skirt pattern shapes to match the hem flare, pivot the border up to the cut hemline, and appliqué. If your lace border is wide, you may need to gather it on the seam or cut it off and sew it back on after constructing the skirt.
Sewing a zipper into a lace wedding dress can be tricky, and hand-stitching is often easier than using a machine. One approach is to sew the zipper to a facing and then sew the facing to the bodice by machine or by hand.
Sewing a lace wedding dress can be challenging, and there are a few common pitfalls to watch out for. First, be careful when trimming lace, as some types can unravel and be difficult to secure. Second, if you are sewing for someone else's body, fitting skills are extremely important, so be sure to brush up on specialty fabric sewing techniques. Finally, do your research on different types of lace and plan your approach before beginning construction.
