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A bustle is an important addition to a wedding dress with a train, as it prevents the train from getting soiled and makes it easier for the bride to move around. There are several types of bustles, including the French bustle, the American bustle, the ballroom bustle, the train-flip bustle, and the Austrian bustle. Each of these differs in the number of points used to attach the train to the dress, with more points often being necessary for heavier dresses. The bustle is custom-made for each dress and can be sewn by hand, with hooks, loops, ties, buttons, and ribbons.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose of a bustle | To pull the back of the dress off the ground so it doesn't get soiled, to allow the bride to move around after the ceremony with ease, and to alleviate some of the fear of tripping over a long train. |
| Types of bustles | Regular, French, American, Ballroom, Train-flip, Austrian, 1-point overbustle, 1-3 point underbustle |
| What you will need | Wedding/formal dress, dressform/mannequin or a friend, measuring tape, grosgrain ribbon, sheet of felt, sharp straight pins, thin needle, white polyester thread, safety pins, pliers |
| Steps to install a French bustle | Mark the center seam near the butt area with a straight pin, measure down from this point to the end of the train, place another pin at the bottom of this measurement, sew on ribbons, flip the dress inside out, tie the ribbons together |
| Hiding hooks | Conceal hooks with lace appliqués sewn on top, hide within the layers of the dress, or hide with embroidery or beading |
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What You'll Learn
Choosing the right type of bustle for your dress
Choosing the right type of bustle for your wedding dress is an important decision that can impact the overall look and functionality of your gown. Here are some factors to consider when selecting the most suitable bustle:
Style of Your Gown
The style of your wedding dress plays a crucial role in choosing the right bustle. Consider the silhouette, fabric, embellishments, and any unique features, such as a statement bow at the back. The bustle should complement the design of your gown, enhancing its aesthetic appeal while also providing functionality.
Train Length
The length of your gown's train is another key factor. If your dress has a long, narrow train, an American bustle (also known as an over bustle) is a popular choice. This style gathers the train dramatically, attaching it to the outside of the skirt, creating a cascading effect. For gowns with minimal trains, a French bustle (or under bustle) is a better option, as it tucks the train neatly underneath.
Fabric Weight and Activity Level
The weight of the fabric and the amount of activity you plan to engage in during your wedding should also be considered. Some bustles are stronger and more durable than others, so if your dress is made of heavy fabric or you anticipate a lot of dancing and movement, opt for a sturdier bustle that can withstand the weight and activity level.
Number of Bustle Points
The number of bustle points can vary, and this will impact the overall look and cost. More bustle points create an ultra-dramatic effect but also increase the chances of something coming loose. Consider how many points you want for aesthetic purposes, and always have safety pins and a sewing kit on hand as a backup plan.
Seamstress Recommendation
Trust the expertise of your seamstress, as they can recommend the best type of bustle for your specific gown. They will consider factors such as the silhouette, fabric amount, and your intended use of the dress. They can also demonstrate different options during your alterations, allowing you to visualise the final look.
Remember, the bustle is an essential element that adds both functionality and style to your wedding dress. By considering these factors, you can choose the right bustle to elevate your bridal look and ensure a seamless, enjoyable experience on your special day.
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Gathering the required materials
To sew a bustle for a wedding dress, you will need to gather the right materials. The specific requirements will depend on the style of the dress and the type of bustle you want to create. Here is a general list of materials you may need:
- Wedding dress or formal dress (typically works best on satin A-line dresses with a long train and multiple seams at the back)
- Mannequin or dress form (optionally, a friend of similar size to the bride, wearing heels)
- Measuring tape
- Grosgrain ribbon (preferably in three different patterns or colours)
- Sheet of felt
- Sharp straight pins
- Thin needle
- Thread (white polyester thread or strong thread in another colour)
- Buttons or hooks (consider choosing hooks that match the colour of the lace on the dress, if applicable)
- Scissors
- Clear nail polish or glue
If you are creating a French bustle, you will also need to cut six one-inch squares of felt and two six-inch ribbons of each pattern or colour. For other types of bustles, such as the ballroom bustle or Austrian bustle, you may need additional ribbons or ties.
It is important to note that bustling a wedding dress can be a complex task, and it is recommended to consult with a skilled seamstress or alterations expert. They can advise on the specific materials and quantities required for your particular dress and bustle style.
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Attaching hooks, buttons, loops or ties
Attaching hooks, buttons, loops, or ties is a crucial step in sewing a bustle for a wedding dress. Here are some detailed instructions to guide you through the process:
Attaching Hooks:
- Identify the placement of the hooks by marking the waistline or centre seam with pins.
- Sew dress hooks along the waistline, ensuring an equal number on both sides and one at the centre seam for an odd total, like 5 or 7.
- Use safety pins to create a V-shape that matches the number of hooks. Position the deepest part of the "V" on the centre back seam.
- Close the hooks over the safety pins using pliers or another hard tool.
- For dresses without a waist seam, consider the ribbon and safety pin method. Pin the ribbons inside the skirt to create an under-bustle.
- If using hooks, sew through all layers of material, including the underskirt, to ensure stability and to lift all layers when bustled.
Attaching Buttons:
- Sew buttons wherever pin marks were made along the waistline.
- Stitch securely to prevent the bustle from coming undone. Reinforce with a small piece of interfacing underneath each button if needed.
- For heavier dresses, consider using multiple buttons for added support.
Attaching Loops:
- Use strong thread to create button loops. Knot the ends of the thread together.
- Place a small piece of interfacing on the topside of the dress's train, where a pin marking denotes a button loop.
- Insert the needle at the pin, next to the seam line, and pull it through the interfacing and train.
- Create a small backstitch from the right side of the train, pulling the thread to form a loop approximately 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) in length.
- Sew the loop halfway up the length of the dress and secure it with a knot.
- Position the button about one foot above the bride's knees and stitch it securely.
- Hook the loop over the button to lift the train off the floor.
Attaching Ties:
- Attach a tie to the seam of the underside of the skirt to keep it concealed.
- Sew an eye hook to the very end of the train, using embroidery or beading to conceal the hook.
- Pull the tie to attach it to the eye hook, bunching the skirt.
Remember, the number and placement of hooks, buttons, loops, or ties will depend on the weight and style of the dress. It is essential to distribute the weight evenly to avoid putting strain on a single hook or area of fabric.
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$14.59
Sewing techniques and best practices
Sewing a bustle for a wedding dress can be a complex process, and it is recommended to consult a professional seamstress or alterations expert. However, here is a detailed guide on sewing techniques and best practices for creating a beautiful and functional bustle.
Before beginning, it is important to understand the different types of bustles. The most common types are the French bustle, American bustle, and wrist bustle. The French bustle, also known as an underbustle, is created by sewing ribbons on the inside of the dress to pull it up at multiple points, giving the effect of no bustle. The American bustle, or overbustle, is achieved by sewing loops and buttons on the outside of the dress to lift the train. A simpler option is the wrist bustle, where a loop is sewn to the back of the dress, allowing the bride to hold the train with her wrist.
To install a French bustle, start by flipping the dress inside out. Measure the length of the train and mark the center seam near the buttocks with a straight pin. Measure down from this point to the desired length of the train and place another pin. These pins will guide where you sew the ribbons. Cut your ribbons and seal their ends to prevent fraying. Sew the ribbons onto felt squares tightly and then sew the felt squares onto the inside of the dress at the marked points. Once all ribbons are sewn, tie them together. For longer trains, distribute the weight by creating a three-point bustle by adding points on either side of the center.
For an American bustle, attach buttons or hooks to the waistline of the dress where you made pin marks. Stitch securely, reinforcing with interfacing if needed. Create button loops with strong thread, placing a small piece of interfacing on the topside of the dress's train where the loop will be. Insert the needle at the pin, pull it through the interfacing and train, and make a small backstitch. Pull the thread to create a loop. Once the loops are added, fasten them to the buttons or hooks. Adjust the folds of fabric to create a fuller and more voluminous bustle. If desired, hand-sew lace appliqués on top of the buttons or hooks to conceal them.
Some general tips for sewing a bustle include:
- Consult with a professional seamstress to determine the best type of bustle for your specific dress.
- Practice good hand hygiene and take breaks while working to avoid soiling the fabric.
- Consider the weight of the train when deciding on the number of points and hooks for the bustle. Distribute the weight evenly to avoid placing too much stress on one area.
- Ensure that the hooks or buttons are sewn through all layers of the dress, including the underskirt, for added stability.
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Testing and adjusting the bustle
Testing the Bustle Mechanism
Before adjusting the bustle, test the mechanism to ensure it works correctly. Securely fasten the loops to the buttons or hooks and check that the train of the dress lifts off the floor as intended. If the bustle uses ties or ribbons, make sure they are correctly tied and adjusted to hold up the train. This initial test will reveal any fundamental issues with the bustle's construction.
Adjusting the Bustle Height
The height of the bustle can be adjusted to suit the bride's preference and comfort. If the bustle is too low, causing the train to drag, adjust the placement of the buttons or hooks higher up. If the train is too high, the buttons or hooks can be repositioned slightly lower. This adjustment ensures the bride can walk and move comfortably without tripping over the train.
Fine-Tuning the Fabric Folds
After lifting the train, adjust the folds of fabric to create a neat and voluminous bustle. Tuck in each fold to create a well-layered and elegant appearance. For a regular bustle, the end of the train is folded under the back of the dress, creating a bubble hem effect. Ensure the folds are evenly distributed and smooth, enhancing the overall aesthetic of the bustle.
Concealing Buttons and Hooks
If the exposed buttons or hooks detract from the dress's design, consider concealing them. Hand-sew lace appliqués over the fasteners to discreetly hide them. Alternatively, use ribbons or ties that match the colour of the dress to minimise their visibility. This step ensures the bustle complements the dress's design rather than detracting from it.
Testing Durability and Stability
It is essential to test the durability of the bustle, especially if the train is heavy. Have the wearer jump gently or move around briskly to ensure the bustle holds securely. If the bustle seems unstable, reinforce the buttons or hooks with additional stitching or interfacing. This step ensures the bustle can withstand the demands of the wedding day.
By carefully following these testing and adjusting steps, you can ensure the bustle on the wedding dress functions flawlessly and looks exquisite.
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Frequently asked questions
A bustle is a custom-made addition to a wedding dress that prevents the back of the dress from touching the ground. This helps to prevent the dress from getting soiled and also makes it easier for the bride to move around.
There are several types of bustles, including the French bustle, the American bustle, the ballroom bustle, the train-flip bustle, and the Austrian bustle. Each type of bustle has a different look and may suit certain dress styles better than others.
You will need a wedding dress or formal dress, a dress form or mannequin, measuring tape, grosgrain ribbon, a sheet of felt, sharp straight pins, a thin needle, and white polyester thread.
First, cut six one-inch squares of felt and seal the ends of the ribbons with clear nail polish or glue. Then, sew a ribbon onto each felt square tightly. With the dress inside out, make a mark on the centre seam near the butt area with a straight pin. Measure down from this point to the bottom of the train and place another pin at the bottom of this measurement. Sew on the ribbons at the location of the pins, then tie them together.
You can attach the bustle to the dress using buttons, hooks, or loops. Sew these onto the waistline of the dress, making sure to stitch securely. If using loops, use strong thread to thread the needle and place a small piece of interfacing on the topside of the dress's train before inserting the needle.
