Rhiannon Hendricks
A wedding dress bustle is an important addition to any gown with a train. It allows the bride to move around with ease, prevents the dress from getting soiled, and saves her from tripping over the train. There are several types of bustles, including the American bustle, French bustle, and underbustle, each with its own unique style and functionality. Creating a bustle is a complex task that requires skill and experience, so it is recommended to seek the help of a professional seamstress or alterations expert. However, for those who are handy with a needle and thread, adding a bustle to a wedding dress can be a way to save money. This involves sewing loops, hooks, ties, or buttons onto the dress to secure the train and create a uniform hemline.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | Safeguarding the wedding dress and its train against potential damage, preventing tripping, and making the dress more comfortable to wear |
| Installation | Best left to a skilled seamstress or alterations expert; can be done by the wearer with needle and thread skills |
| Types | Overbustle/American bustle, French bustle/underbustle, one-point bustle, three-point bustle |
| Techniques | Sewing hooks, ties, or buttons; using loops; attaching ribbons; adjusting folds of fabric |
| Considerations | Silhouette of the gown, amount of fabric, and how the dress will be worn; matching the bustle style to the dress |
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What You'll Learn
Why you need a bustle
A bustle is a key ingredient in safeguarding your wedding dress and its train against potential damage. It helps secure the fabric of your gown's train, giving you the freedom to move around with ease. A bustle will also save you from tripping on your train and make your dress much more comfortable to wear.
Bustles are intended to add to your comfort and mobility, not impede it. A professionally executed bustle is created to fit your body and the natural fall of the wedding dress, so it shouldn't be any more constricting than the silhouette's own design. A bustle can also help to keep your gown from dragging on the floor, specifically at your reception, and prevent it from getting dirty or damaged.
Additionally, a bustle can add drama and flair to the back of your wedding dress. The American bustle, for example, creates a cascading feel as the fabric folds flow over the rest of the skirt. This bustle type is particularly well-suited for ball gowns or wedding dresses with cathedral-length trains. On the other hand, the French bustle involves tucking the train underneath the skirt to create a billowing effect, giving the back of your gown more fullness.
Lastly, a bustle can help to preserve your wedding dress for future use or storage. Preventing the bottom of your gown from being completely destroyed at the reception will help considerably during the cleaning process when you have your gown preserved.
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Choosing a bustle style
Choosing the right bustle style for your wedding dress is an important part of finalising your wedding day look. Wedding dresses often don't come with a bustle, so it's important to add one to your dress to make it easier to move around after the ceremony. A bustle lifts the back of the dress off the ground so it doesn't get soiled, and it also preserves the beauty of your gown.
There are several types of bustles, each with a different look, but they all benefit the wearer in the same way. The style you choose will determine how the train is tied up, making the front and back of the gown a similar length. Bustles can be created using buttons, hooks, loops, ties, or a combination of these.
- American bustle: Also known as an over bustle, this style has hooks scattered throughout the waistline of the dress, enabling the train to be lifted and hooked over the top of the gown. This style can have one, three, or even five bustle pick-up points for a dramatic look. It works well for simpler dresses.
- French bustle: Also known as a Victorian bustle or under bustle, this style is the reverse of the American bustle. Hooks pick up the train of the gown as it tucks under the silhouette. Ribbons are often attached to connect and secure the fabric, with multiple pick-up points for extra flair. This style suits gowns with a natural waistline and embellishments near the waist. It is better suited to dresses with minimal trains.
- Ballroom bustle: This style gives the illusion that the gown was always floor-length, with multiple bustle points sewn around the bodice, allowing the fabric to fold into itself. It is typically the most expensive option due to the number of bustle points.
- Royal bustle: This style involves gathering the train and affixing it to the dress at several points, creating dramatic folds that add visual interest. It pairs well with A-line and ball gown silhouettes.
When choosing a bustle style, it's important to consider the design of your dress and your venue. For example, a French or Victorian bustle suits more elaborate designs, while a simpler American bustle works better for simpler dresses. For outdoor or beach weddings, a basic style like the Train Flip may be more practical, while ballroom and Austrian bustles are better for formal indoor settings.
It's also crucial to work closely with your seamstress, who will be your best guide when choosing a bustle. They will take into account your dress's fabric, weight, and train length to recommend the best option. During your dress fitting, you can practice bustling the gown to ensure it's easy to secure and comfortable to wear.
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$14.59
Finding a seamstress
Adding a bustle to a wedding dress is a complex task that requires skill and experience, so it is highly recommended to hire a professional seamstress to do it for you. Here are some tips for finding a qualified seamstress to add a bustle to your wedding dress:
Bridal Boutique
The bridal boutique where you purchased your wedding dress is an excellent resource for finding an experienced seamstress. They often have a network of trusted professionals who can provide alteration services, including adding a bustle. The boutique should be able to provide you with referrals or recommendations for seamstresses who have specific experience with wedding dresses and bustles.
Word-of-Mouth and Referrals
Asking for referrals from people you trust is another great way to find a skilled seamstress. Talk to any recently married friends or family members who may have used a seamstress for their wedding dress alterations. They can share their personal experiences and provide valuable insights into the quality of the seamstress's work, their professionalism, and their ability to work with wedding gowns and bustles.
Online Reviews and Local Bridal Groups
If you don't have a direct referral, you can turn to online sources for recommendations. Check online review platforms or local bridal forums and groups to seek suggestions for reputable seamstresses in your area. Reading reviews from other brides can give you a sense of the seamstress's expertise, responsiveness, and overall customer satisfaction.
Experience with Wedding Dresses and Bustles
When considering a seamstress, prioritize those who have specific experience with wedding dresses and adding bustles. Wedding dresses are intricate and delicate, and adding a bustle requires a deep understanding of fabric layers, lace, and seams, as well as the various bustle types. A seamstress who regularly works with wedding gowns and bustles will be better equipped to handle the complexities of the task.
Communication and Consultation
Before finalizing your choice of seamstress, establish clear communication and request a consultation. Discuss your specific needs, the type of bustle you desire, and any unique features of your wedding dress. A good seamstress will be able to guide you through the process, offer suggestions, and provide a clear understanding of their capabilities and pricing.
Remember, adding a bustle to your wedding dress is a specialized task, so take the time to find a seamstress who inspires confidence and has the necessary skills and experience.
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Sewing a loop
To sew a loop for a wedding dress bustle, begin by marking the placement of the loop halfway up the length of the bride's train. This can be done by placing a safety pin on the back of the dress at the desired location. Once the placement is determined, thread your needle with strong thread, doubling up the thread for added strength and security. Insert the needle into the underside of the dress at the marked location and pull the thread through.
Create a small stitch and pull the thread most of the way through, forming a loop. Secure the loop by grabbing it with your fingers and pulling the remaining thread through, creating a knot. This knot will ensure that the loop remains firmly in place. It is important to use a secure knot, especially when considering the weight of the fabric that the loop will bear.
For added reinforcement, you may also attach a small piece of interfacing to the topside of the dress's train, beneath the loop. This interfacing provides extra support and helps to distribute the weight of the fabric more evenly. The loop should be sewn securely, as it plays a vital role in fastening the bustle by attaching to a button or hook.
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Attaching hooks or buttons
Selecting the Right Fasteners:
Before attaching the hooks or buttons, it's essential to choose the appropriate fasteners for your wedding dress. Delicate loops, hooks, and buttons are commonly used to create a bustle. However, these components must be properly secured to ensure they don't break under the weight of the fabric. Consult a skilled seamstress or alterations expert to determine the best fasteners for your dress.
Attaching Hooks:
To attach hooks, you will need to sew them onto the back of your dress. Identify the waistline or centre seam at the back of the dress, as this is where the hooks are typically placed. Secure the hooks by stitching them onto the dress at the desired locations. Make sure to reinforce the stitching to prevent the hooks from coming loose. If needed, you can attach a small piece of interfacing under each hook for added strength.
Attaching Buttons:
Attaching buttons follows a similar process to hooks. Sew the buttons onto the back of your dress along the waistline or centre seam. Ensure that the buttons are securely stitched in place. If desired, you can also attach a small piece of interfacing under each button for additional support.
Creating Button Loops:
For dresses with buttons, you will also need to create button loops. Use strong thread to thread your needle and knot the ends together. Place a small piece of interfacing on the top side of the dress's train, at the location of each button loop. Insert the needle at the pin, next to the seam line, and pull it through the interfacing and train. This will create a secure loop for the buttons to pass through.
Concealing Fasteners:
If you prefer a discreet look, you can conceal the hooks or buttons with decorative elements. Hand-sew lace appliqués over the fasteners to hide them from view. This adds a touch of elegance to your wedding dress while keeping the functionality of the bustle intact.
Remember, adding a bustle to your wedding dress is a delicate task, and it's always recommended to seek the assistance of an experienced seamstress or alterations expert. They can guide you in choosing the right fasteners and ensure that your bustle is securely attached.
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Frequently asked questions
A bustle is a feature of a wedding dress that allows the bride to move around freely by securing the fabric of the gown's train and keeping it from dragging across the floor. It also helps to safeguard the dress from damage and stains.
A bustle is important as it allows the bride to move around with ease, especially if the wedding is outdoors. It also helps to protect the dress from damage and stains, and prevents guests from accidentally stepping on the train.
There are several types of bustles, including the American bustle (or over bustle), French bustle (or underbustle), and the one-point overbustle. The American bustle is the simplest type, where the midpoint of the train is attached to a button on the upper back of the skirt. The French bustle is more complex and involves sewing ribbons to create a pouf effect.
The type of bustle chosen will depend on the silhouette of the gown, the amount of fabric, and personal preference. It is recommended to consult a skilled seamstress who can advise on the best type of bustle for the specific dress and help with alterations.
While it is possible to add a bustle to a wedding dress oneself, especially with the help of online tutorials, it is a complex and time-consuming task that requires a lot of care and precision. It is recommended to seek the help of a professional seamstress or alterations expert to ensure the bustle is secure and does not damage the dress.
