Deborah Chan
Boning is an important aspect of wedding dress construction, providing structure and support to the gown. It typically consists of thin, flexible strips made of plastic or steel, sewn into the lining or inner layers of the dress. While not all dresses require boning, it can be particularly beneficial for those with a larger bust or intricate designs. The process of adding boning can be complex, and it is recommended to consult a skilled seamstress for alterations. Boning can also be added to shapewear or undergarments to provide additional support and ensure the dress fits snugly. The type of boning used, such as steel or plastic, and its placement will depend on the dress's fabric and style, with some dresses benefiting from diagonal boning strips for better adjustability.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose of boning | To provide structural support to the wedding dress, maintain its shape, and enhance its support and three-dimensional appearance. |
| Boning material | Thin, flexible strips of plastic or steel. |
| Boning placement | Sewn into the lining or inner layers of the dress, typically in the bodice area to provide support to the bust. |
| Boning considerations | The thickness and type of fabric used in the wedding dress, as boning may destroy certain fabrics and is more suitable for structured garments. |
| Alternatives to boning | Shapewear or corsets can be worn under the dress to provide additional support, especially for strapless or backless styles. |
| Boning tips | Avoid placing boning directly over the princess bust seam in strapless dresses. Instead, place a strip diagonally from the side waist up towards the top of the bust seam. |
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What You'll Learn
Boning materials: plastic or steel
Boning refers to thin, flexible strips that are typically sewn into the lining or inner layers of a wedding dress to provide structural support. These strips help the gown maintain its shape and enhance its support and three-dimensional appearance. While boning is not necessary for all wedding dresses, it is particularly useful for strapless dresses, which often require additional support to prevent the bust area from sagging.
When choosing boning for a wedding dress, you can select from various materials, including plastic and steel. Plastic boning is a popular choice for wedding dresses as it is flexible, lightweight, and easy to sew into the dress. It is also widely available and affordable. Plastic boning is often sold in rolls or pre-cut strips and can be cut to the desired length. It is typically transparent or white to blend seamlessly into the dress.
However, if more robust support is needed, steel boning may be a better option. Steel boning is stronger and more rigid than plastic, providing more structure and durability. It is ideal for creating a defined waistline and supporting the bust area. Steel boning is commonly used in corsets and can be purchased from specialty retailers or online stores.
The type of boning material chosen depends on the weight of the fabric and the desired level of support. For heavier fabrics like satin, a stronger and more substantial boning is recommended. Conversely, lightweight fabrics may require thinner and more flexible boning. It is important to consider the comfort of the wearer, as some brides may prefer a dress without boning or with minimal boning for a softer, more relaxed fit.
In summary, both plastic and steel boning materials offer distinct advantages for wedding dresses. Plastic boning is flexible, lightweight, and easily accessible, making it a versatile option. On the other hand, steel boning provides more robust support and structure, particularly for strapless dresses or gowns requiring a defined waistline. Ultimately, the choice between plastic and steel boning depends on the specific requirements of the dress and the bride's comfort and style preferences.
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Boning placement: directly over the princess seam
Boning is an essential element in wedding dresses, especially strapless gowns, as it provides structure and support. When placing boning directly over the princess seam, there are several factors and techniques to consider for optimal results.
Firstly, it is important to determine the placement of the princess seam itself. Princess seams typically run vertically along the front and back of a dress, extending from the armhole to the waist or hip area. They are often found on dresses with fitted bodices, providing shape and support to the bust and rib cage area.
When adding boning to the princess seam, it is recommended to use a pattern or follow instructions if available. This ensures that the boning is placed accurately and effectively. The boning should be cut to the length of the seams where it will be inserted.
In terms of sewing technique, there are a few options for attaching the boning. One method is to sew the casing to the inside of the lining, so the stitching is hidden within the finished garment. You can press the seams flat and centre the casing over the seam, or press the seams to the side and sew the casing just off-centre. Sewing the casing to the side of the seam is preferred by some as it creates a stronger seam and reduces the risk of breaking.
Additionally, when placing boning over the princess seam, consider the type of fabric and the desired level of support. For example, a strapless dress may require more boning for added structure, while a dress with sleeves may need less. The fabric's weight and drape can also impact the placement and effectiveness of the boning.
Lastly, it is worth noting that while boning directly over the princess seam can provide support and structure, it may not be necessary for all dresses or body types. Some dressmakers suggest that boning the side seams and back princess seams may be sufficient, especially for those with a smaller bust. However, for dresses requiring more support, such as those with a low-cut bodice or a heavy skirt, boning the princess seam can be beneficial.
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Boning tips: finish the ends to avoid poking
When adding boning to a wedding dress, it is important to finish the ends to avoid the boning poking the wearer. There are several methods to achieve this.
Firstly, when cutting steel boning down to size, you can use tin snips and a grinder to round the edge of the steel bone. Then, dip the very end in tool dip, which is a rubbery-plastic coating used to coat tool handles. This creates a smooth edge and prevents the boning from poking through the dress. You can purchase tool dip from hardware stores.
Another method is to curve the ends of the boning and then melt the ends together over a flame. This technique is suitable for Rigilene or poly boning. This prevents the ends from poking out of the casing.
You can also finish the boning ends by wrapping them with a firmly woven cotton fabric as you sew them. This method is suitable for Rigilene boning, which can be sewn directly to the fabric.
Additionally, you can use a small piece of the cloth casing that the boning came in, stitch the end of the cloth, and then slip the end of the boning into it before inserting the boning into the casing. This creates a pocket for the boning end, preventing it from poking through the dress.
Finally, if the boning has a piece of fabric over the end, you can remove it, trim off about 1/4"-1/2" from the end, and then put the fabric back on the tip of the boning. Stitch it in place to prevent slipping, and then restitch the dress closed. This method can help improve the fit and comfort of the dress.
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Boning alternatives: corset or bra with clear back strap
Boning is an integral part of bridal construction, providing crucial support and structure to wedding gowns while enhancing their aesthetic appeal. However, not all wedding dresses require boning. Some brides may opt for dresses without boning due to personal preference or comfort considerations.
If you are looking for alternatives to boning in a wedding dress, one option is to wear a corset or a bra with a clear back strap underneath the dress. This can provide the necessary support and structure, especially for strapless dresses.
For example, a steel-boned corset can be a good alternative to provide support and create a defined waistline, as in the case of a short bride with a triangular shape who wanted to avoid her dress from sagging. The corset, when properly adjusted, can be surprisingly comfortable and provide good support.
Another alternative to consider is using eyelets and a criss-cross drawstring, which offers the benefit of adjustability. This method involves punching holes in the binding on each side of the front cut-out, attaching eyelets, and threading a narrow drawstring. This technique can provide a less risqué look while adding interesting detail with the rivets and crossing string.
Additionally, double-stick tape can be used to hold the dress snugly to the skin, reducing the need for constant tugging. However, if the tugging problem needs to be completely eliminated, adding straps to the dress might be necessary, although this may not align with the desired strapless look.
When choosing between boning and its alternatives, it is important to consider the weight of the fabric used for the dress. For heavier fabrics like satin, a heavier boning would be more appropriate, while featherweight boning might be more suitable for lighter fabrics. Ultimately, the decision to include boning or opt for alternatives depends on individual preferences and the style of the dress.
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Boning and fabric: consider fabric thickness and heft
When adding boning to a wedding dress, it is important to consider the thickness and weight of the fabric. The weight of the fabric will determine the type of boning required to provide structure and support. For example, a lightweight fabric like chiffon or organza can hold a structured silhouette, making it ideal for warm-weather weddings. In this case, you could use feather-weight boning, which is a lightweight option. However, if the fabric is thicker and heavier, such as Mikado silk or velvet, you may need to opt for a stronger type of boning, like steel boning, to provide more support and structure.
The thickness of the fabric will also influence the comfort of the dress, especially in warmer climates. A structured dress doesn't have to be uncomfortable, but the thickness of the fabric can make a difference. Thicker fabrics may require more boning to maintain their shape, which can add to the weight of the dress. It is important to consider the weight of the boning itself, as well as the fabric, to ensure the dress is comfortable to wear.
Additionally, the fabric's thickness and weight will impact the overall fit of the dress. A heavier fabric with more structure may require alterations to ensure a perfect fit. Working with an experienced seamstress is crucial to achieving the desired fit. They can advise on the appropriate amount and placement of boning to complement the fabric and design of the dress.
Furthermore, the thickness of the fabric should be considered when deciding on shapewear or undergarments. Some fabrics may be less forgiving, and the thickness of the dress material will determine whether seams or lines from shapewear will show through. It is important to choose shapewear that works well with the fabric of the dress to ensure a smooth and flattering silhouette.
In summary, when adding boning to a wedding dress, carefully consider the thickness and weight of the fabric. This will influence the type of boning required, the comfort of the dress, the overall fit, and the choice of undergarments. By taking these factors into account, you can ensure that the boning provides the necessary structure and support while complementing the fabric and design of the wedding dress.
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Frequently asked questions
Boning refers to thin, flexible strips made of plastic or steel that are typically sewn into the lining or inner layers of a wedding dress to provide structural support.
Boning helps the gown maintain its shape while being worn and effectively enhances its support and three-dimensional appearance. It can also help sculpt a more defined waistline, accentuating the bride’s figure and creating a slender appearance.
Adding boning to a wedding dress can provide additional support and help the dress maintain its structure. It is recommended to consult a skilled and experienced seamstress for wedding dress alterations. Boning can be added to any wedding dress, but it is important to consider the fabric and style of the dress, as boning may not be necessary for simpler and lightweight dresses.
