Lyla Dejesus
Zippers are a common feature in wedding dresses, and sewing one into a wedding dress is a skill that can save the day and avoid a minor wedding disaster. Sewing a zipper into a wedding dress requires a slightly different process than sewing a zipper into jeans or a handbag. This paragraph will introduce the topic of how to put a zipper in a wedding dress, covering the tools required, the steps to follow, and the considerations for choosing the right type of zipper. It will also highlight the potential challenges and offer solutions to common zipper malfunctions.
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What You'll Learn
Choosing the right zipper
Type of Zipper
The type of zipper you choose will depend on the desired look and functionality of your wedding dress. The most common type of zipper for a wedding dress is an invisible zipper, which is hidden within the fabric and provides a seamless look. Invisible zippers are ideal for minimalist designs or dresses with detailed back embellishments as they do not detract from the overall design. However, it is important to ensure that the invisible zipper is strong enough to support the fabric and movement of the wearer. If you prefer a more structured look, a separating zipper, similar to those used in jackets, can be used to create a two-piece effect for your wedding gown. Long separating zippers can also be useful if you plan to remove the train or tail of the gown for the reception, allowing for easier movement during your celebration.
Zipper Length
Selecting the right zipper length is crucial to ensure a proper fit. The zipper should be at least as long as the opening it needs to close. It is always better to err on the side of a longer zipper than a shorter one, as you can adjust the length as needed. Your dress pattern will typically specify the required zipper length, so be sure to follow those guidelines.
Zipper Strength
Consider the size of the coil when selecting a zipper, as this determines its strength. A standard coil zipper is generally stronger than an invisible zipper of the same width. Choose a zipper with a larger coil size, such as a #6, for added durability, especially if your wedding dress has a heavier fabric or intricate details that require more robust support.
Zipper Colour and Material
The colour and material of the zipper should blend seamlessly with the fabric of your wedding dress. Opt for a zipper that closely matches the colour of your gown to ensure it remains inconspicuous. Additionally, consider the texture and sheen of the zipper tape to ensure it aligns with the fabric of your dress. For delicate fabrics, handle the zipper with care to avoid any snags or damage.
Zipper Functionality
Test the zipper several times before sewing it into your dress to ensure it opens and closes smoothly. A stuck or malfunctioning zipper can cause unwanted stress on your wedding day. Practice zipping up the dress and ensure it glides effortlessly, allowing you to enter and exit the gown gracefully.
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Preparing the dress opening
Measure and Plan the Opening:
Use a tape measure to determine the length and position of the dress opening. Consider how far down you want the opening to go. If the wedding dress has a form-fitting design, opt for a longer zipper to reduce stress on the fabric when putting it on or taking it off. The zipper length can range from 16 to 20 inches (41 to 51 cm), typically extending from the top of the dress to just below the hips.
Pin the Seam:
Identify the seam in the back of the dress where the zipper will be placed. Pin the seam closed for the length of the zipper. If your dress pattern includes a ''notch', pin all the way down to the notch and then along the back opening. Ensure the seams match up to avoid misalignment.
Baste the Seam:
Use your sewing machine to baste a 5/8" seam line along the pinned area. If your machine doesn't have a basting stitch, use a double-long stitch. Stop at the notch, reverse the stitch, and lock the stitches. This step will help keep the fabric in place and provide a guide for zipper placement.
Prepare the Zipper:
Select a zipper that is 2 inches (5.1 cm) longer than the opening. Test the zipper to ensure it opens and closes smoothly. Close the zipper and lay it right side down on the basted seam. Use clear tape to secure the zipper in place, taping it all the way down to the notch.
Press the Seam:
Open the basted seam by pressing it flat. This step ensures that the fabric lies smoothly and creates a neat finish. You can use an iron to press the seam open gently.
With these steps, you have successfully prepared the dress opening for installing the zipper. Now you can move on to the next steps of sewing the zipper in place and completing any finishing touches.
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Securing the zipper with pins
When securing a zipper with pins, it is important to first prepare the opening on the wedding dress where the zipper will be placed. This involves basting the seam closed for the length of the zipper. Pin the seam in the back of the dress where the zipper will be placed, all the way down to the notch, and then down the back opening, ensuring the seams match. Take the dress to the sewing machine and baste a 5/8" seam line with your machine where you pinned. If you don't have a basting stitch, use a double-long stitch.
Next, close the zipper and lay it right side down on the seam, so the zipper lays right on the basted seam. Use clear tape to tape the zipper in place all the way down to the notch. Turn the dress right side out carefully. Pin or tape your zipper face-down along the seam to prevent the material from moving and stretching. The entire seam should be pinned away from the zipper, except for the edge next to the teeth.
Now, you are ready to start sewing. Stitch down the outer edge of the zipper tape, being careful to only go through the seam allowance and not the dress beneath. Stitch to the pull, then leave your needle in the fabric, lift the presser foot, and push the zipper's pull back up past the foot. Unzip the zipper about an inch so you can stitch down without hitting it. After you've gotten past the zipper, leave the needle in, raise the foot, and push the zipper's pull back up, closing the zip. Stitch down the rest of the scant edge to the bottom.
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Sewing the zipper into the opening
Sewing a zipper into a wedding dress is a different process from sewing a zipper into jeans or a handbag. Here is a detailed, step-by-step guide to sewing a zipper into a wedding dress:
First, choose the right type of zipper and adjust the length as needed. Your pattern will tell you the size you need. If you have trouble finding the right size, make sure it's longer, not shorter, than the pattern size needed. Use a zipper foot, as it is designed specifically for zippers. You can also use the longest stitch on the machine and sew one side of the zipper down the CB seam line.
Next, prepare the opening on the dress where you want the zipper to be placed. Pin the seam in the back of the dress where the zipper will go. Then, turn the dress right side out carefully and use a matching thread and a zipper foot for this step. Change the basting stitch to a straight stitch. Start sewing at the notch, sewing straight up to the top on the right, and stop 2" before reaching the pull. Cut the thread and carefully scoot the dress back to the bottom instead of turning or pulling it out from under the needle. Repeat sewing the left side, and again stop 2" down from the pull. Always make sure to reverse stitch to lock your stitches.
Finally, cut the excess threads after you have finished sewing the zipper into place. Hem the top edge of the dress if needed. Fold over the top edge of the dress so that the raw edges will be hidden on the inside of the dress. Insert pins through the fabric to secure it and then sew a straight stitch along the pinned edges to secure the hem. Make sure to remove the pins as you sew. Cut the excess threads after you finish hemming the dress.
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Finishing touches, such as hemming the top of the dress
Hemming a wedding dress is a common step in the alterations process, as most dresses will need to be hemmed to fit the bride's height. It is generally impossible to compromise between high heels and flats with any dress hem. If you try to find a middle ground, the hem will look odd with both. If you are going to be walking on sand, you will need to decide between getting a lower-heeled shoe or hemming the gown longer and holding it up when you walk.
Before you start hemming, make sure the bride has chosen her shoes, as this will affect the length of the hem. If the bride is wearing flats, the dress should be hemmed to the top of the foot, with each layer of crinoline just a little longer. If the bride is wearing heels, the hem should be a little longer to avoid tripping over the fabric.
If you are hemming a dress made with silk, chiffon, or lace, sew a rolled hem instead. If the bride is wearing a bra, bring it to the fitting, as you will need to ensure the dress fits well with it. Stand on a tall box, platform, or table wearing the shoes you plan to wear with the dress. Pin horizontally around the hem where the fabric touches the floor. Double-check with a ruler or measuring tape to ensure it is even.
If you are only hemming part of the dress, such as the front, taper the new hemline to meet the old. If the dress has a low back, you may need to add support to the front of the bust. You can do this by taking in the back, but this will change the line of the back.
Finally, trim the thread tail and turn the hemmed dress right side out. Insert the needle and pull until you make a loop, then bring the needle through the loop to knot the thread. Do this once more before trimming off the excess thread and turning the dress right side out.
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Frequently asked questions
Sewing a zipper into a wedding dress requires a slightly different process than sewing a zipper into jeans or a handbag. First, choose the right type of zipper and adjust the length as needed. Then, prepare the opening on the dress where you want the zipper to go. Sew your zipper into the opening and hem the top of the dress to complete the project.
Dress zippers are often more delicate than those in pants and handbags, and they come in a wider range of colours and lengths. Choose a colour that will blend well with the dress—black or white depending on whether the dress is dark or light-coloured. If the dress is form-fitting, a longer zipper is best as this will reduce stress on the fabric when putting on or taking off the dress.
You will need a seam ripper, needle and thread, a replacement zipper, a sewing machine, and a pair of scissors.
