Creating Your Own Wedding Underskirting: A Guide

The right underskirt can make a big difference to the look and feel of a wedding dress. It enhances and supports the shape of the gown, creating a defined waist and hipline, and adding volume to the skirt. It also keeps the layers of fabric away from the legs, allowing the wearer to feel cool, comfortable, and unrestricted. A petticoat, made of layers of gathered fabric, is the key to full skirts and dresses. Underskirts are especially important for A-line, ballgown, and fishtail/mermaid-style dresses, as they help to keep the shape of the dress and make it easier to walk.

Choosing the right underskirt for your dress

The right underskirt will enhance the shape of your dress and your figure. It will also help you walk and dance by keeping the layers of fabric away from your legs. If you have a princess-style dress, you will need an underskirt to achieve the desired full, fairytale effect.

The short answer is: it depends on your wedding dress style. Most A-line and all ballgown dresses will need an underskirt. Many fit and flare, trumpet, mermaid and fishtail gowns will need a mid-thigh underskirt to give the flare shape at the bottom. For these more figure-hugging dress types, it's important that the underskirt kicks out at the knee rather than the waist.

Dresses that do not require an underskirt:

• Dresses that are intended to be sheer
• Dresses that are intended to fall with a very straight drop
• Dresses that have a thigh-split
• Slinky, slip-style bridal gowns

Underskirt styles and lengths

Underskirts come in different sizes and lengths. The Bianco Evento collection, for example, caters from UK size 8 up to 24. There is also an option to order a "Tall" underskirt, which is longer than the standard range. There is also a very short underskirt available, which is perfect for any 50s/60s style dresses.

To hoop or not to hoop?

There are a small number of underskirts that do not require a hoop. These underskirts have fewer benefits than those with a hoop, but they do give a softer finish to the style of your dress, allowing it to be more flowy and floaty. If your dress is of this style, an underskirt is not necessary, but if you want one, a non-hooped underskirt will add a few more layers to your dress and shape it out subtly.

The hoops in an underskirt are what give your dress its shape. For example, fishtail and mermaid-style dresses only need the underskirt to support the very bottom of the dress, so they only need one hoop. Larger-style wedding dresses, such as ballgowns or princess dresses, will usually require at least two hoops. This allows the weight of the dress to be supported equally. Dresses made from heavy materials such as duchess satin would need a larger amount of support and, in turn, a higher number of hoops.

How to make a petticoat at home

Making a petticoat at home is a straightforward process, and you can save a lot of money by doing so. Before you start, decide on the length and number of layers you want for your petticoat. It's best to measure the skirt or dress you plan to wear over the petticoat, as the petticoat should be about one inch shorter.

Materials

Purchase four to five yards of tulle or crinoline. Crinoline is stiffer and usually comes in white or black, whereas tulle comes in more colours but is less stiff. You will also need one inch-wide satin ribbon, and one to two-inch wide twill tape that matches the colour of your petticoat.

Cutting the Fabric

Cut two, four, and eight-yard strips of fabric for the tiers. You will need one two-yard piece for the top tier, one four-yard piece for the middle tier, and two four-yard pieces for the bottom tier. Sew the two four-yard strips together for the bottom tier, using a straight stitch and a half-inch seam allowance. Finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch or an overlock stitch.

Assembling the Tiers

Fold, pin, and sew a one-inch ribbon over the bottom hem. Cut an eight-yard length of ribbon and fold it over the bottom edge of your fabric strip, securing it with pins. Sew the ribbon as close to the edge as possible, using a matching thread colour and a straight stitch.

Gathering the Tiers

Sew two rows of straight stitches along the top edge of the bottom tier, using a long stitch length and low tension. This will make gathering the fabric easier. Gather the top edge until it is the same size as the middle tier, then sew the bottom and middle tiers together using a half-inch seam allowance. Fold the seam against the middle tier and topstitch it down with a zigzag stitch. Repeat this process with the middle and top tiers.

Finishing the Petticoat

Gather the top edge of the top tier to your waist measurement. Cut a piece of twill tape that is three to four inches longer than your waist size. Hem the ends of the twill tape by a quarter of an inch, then fold and pin the tape over the top edge of your petticoat. Sew the tape down, starting at the left end and finishing on the right. Add some hooks and eyes to the waistband, and your petticoat is ready to wear!

What to wear under a revealing gown

When it comes to what to wear under a revealing gown, there are a few things to keep in mind. Firstly, it is essential to consider the level of reveal. For example, is the gown backless, or does it have a plunging neckline? This will help determine the appropriate undergarments.

For a very low back, backless, or illusion netting gown, an adhesive bra is a good option as they offer support without being seen. It is also important to consider the underwear for this style of dress, as it needs to be low-rise enough to be invisible.

If the gown has a low neckline, cut-outs, or illusion netting, sewn-in cups can offer support. Adhesive bras, such as Perkies or NuBra, are also a good option for this style.

In terms of the underwear, it is generally recommended to opt for a colour that matches your skin tone, especially if the gown is ivory or white. It is also important that the underwear doesn't bunch up or ride up and that it doesn't create any visible panty lines. Shapewear is also an option if you want to target specific areas and create a smooth silhouette.

If you are wearing a revealing gown, it is also worth considering fashion tape to ensure everything stays in place and you feel secure.

Finally, it is always good to have a backup pair of underwear and a bra, as well as adhesive strips, in case of any wardrobe malfunctions!

The benefits of wearing an underskirt

An underskirt is a crucial part of a wedding dress, and it offers several benefits to the wearer. Firstly, it enhances the shape of the dress and improves the overall figure. The underskirt supports the weight of the material, particularly in heavier dresses, without compromising the flow and "swish" of the gown. This added structure is essential for achieving the desired full, fairytale effect in princess-style dresses.

Underskirts also provide comfort and ease of movement. They prevent the dress from wrapping around the wearer's feet, making it much easier to walk down the aisle and dance. Additionally, they keep the layers of fabric away from the legs, providing a cooler and more comfortable experience.

Underskirts come in various styles and lengths to accommodate different wedding dress designs. For A-line and ball gown dresses, an underskirt is typically necessary to create the intended shape. Fit-and-flare, trumpet, mermaid, and fishtail gowns often require a mid-thigh underskirt to flare at the bottom. These underskirts should kick out at the knee or ankle for the desired effect.

In summary, underskirts are essential for shaping certain dress styles, enhancing the wearer's figure, and providing comfort and ease of movement on a wedding day.

How to care for your underskirt

Underskirts are an important part of your wedding attire, and proper care will ensure they look their best and last a long time. Here are some tips to help you care for your underskirt:

• Refer to the care label: Always check the manufacturer's care instructions on the label before cleaning your underskirt. Different fabrics have specific requirements, so it's important to follow these guidelines.
• Washing instructions:
• Cotton: Machine wash cotton underskirts in cold water on a gentle cycle. To avoid shrinkage, air dry or tumble dry on low heat.
• Silk or satin: Delicate fabrics like silk and satin should be hand-washed in cold water or washed using the delicate cycle of your machine. Air dry these fabrics to prevent damage.
• Synthetic fabrics: Synthetic underskirts are typically machine washable. However, always refer to the care label for specific instructions.
• Storing your underskirt: Store your underskirt in a cool, dry place. Using garment bags or hanging them can help prevent wrinkles. Avoid direct sunlight as it can cause fading or fabric damage.
• Ironing and steaming: If needed, iron your underskirt on a low setting, especially for cotton underskirts. For delicate fabrics like silk, it's best to use a steamer or iron them on the reverse side with a pressing cloth to avoid damage.
• Spot cleaning: Underskirts can also be spot cleaned or gently hand-washed if necessary.
• Steaming for extra volume: To add some extra volume to your underskirt before your wedding, use a handheld steamer or hang it in the bathroom after taking a hot shower.

By following these care instructions, you can keep your underskirt in great condition and ensure it looks perfect for your special day.

Frequently asked questions