Customizing My Dream Wedding Gown: A Seamstress's Tale

Wedding dress alterations are an essential part of the bridal experience. While finding the perfect wedding dress is a major milestone, it rarely fits like a glove straight off the rack. This is where seamstresses come in. Seamstresses can tailor your dress to your unique body, ensuring it fits like a dream on your big day. They can also add custom details, such as sleeves, a train, or beading, to make your vision a reality. The process typically involves multiple fittings, with the first taking place around three months before the wedding and the final one about two weeks out. While some bridal salons offer in-house alterations, you can also find independent seamstresses who specialise in wedding attire and can offer more affordable rates.

Hemming the length of the dress

Hemming the length of a wedding dress is one of the most common alterations a bride will need. This is because wedding dresses come in standard sizes, which includes a standard length. For brides who are of average height or shorter, the dress will likely need to be hemmed so that the bride doesn't trip over excess fabric as she walks down the aisle. Even taller brides will likely need a hem, depending on the height of their wedding shoes.

The proper length a wedding dress should be hemmed to will depend on the type and style of the dress. If the dress has just one layer of fabric with no underlayers, such as a lining or crinoline, the dress should be hemmed so that it just grazes the floor. For dresses with a lining or layers of crinoline, the lining should be hemmed to the top of the foot, with the crinoline layers slightly longer but still above the foot. This will ensure that the bride can walk easily and avoid any fabric rolling under her foot.

To measure the length of a wedding dress, a dressmaker will use the "hollow to hem" measurement, which involves measuring the bride from the centre of the collarbone down to the floor. The bride should be standing straight and relaxed with no shoes on for this measurement. The dressmaker will then take off a certain amount, usually between 3 and 6 cm, to ensure the dress isn't too long.

If the bride plans to wear heels for the wedding, the hem will need to be adjusted accordingly. For towering heels, the hem should be reduced by 3 cm or less, while for flats, a reduction of around 5 cm is recommended. If the bride wants to show off her statement shoes, hemming the dress by 6 cm or more is a good option.

It's important to bring the wedding shoes to the fitting appointments so that the seamstress can ensure the dress is hemmed to the correct length. Additionally, it's recommended to have at least two to three fittings to ensure the dress is perfectly tailored to the bride's body.

Taking the dress in or out

Taking in or letting out a wedding dress is a common alteration that a seamstress can perform. It is usually possible to let out a wedding dress by a small amount, but the amount of adjustment that can be made will depend on the cut and material of the dress. Some dresses may only be able to be let out by 3/4 of an inch, whereas dresses with side seams may be able to be let out by up to 2 inches per seam. If more room is needed, a seamstress may be able to add a corset back or fabric panels to the sides of the bodice.

If a bride loses weight, the dress will be taken in at each fitting until it fits perfectly. If a bride gains weight, the seams can be opened, and some extra fabric released. If there is not enough fabric to work with, fabric can be ordered from the designer, and a panel can be added to the dress.

It is recommended that brides schedule their first fitting to take place roughly three months before their wedding day, the second fitting about a month before, and the final fitting at the two-week mark. This gives the seamstress plenty of time to make any necessary adjustments.

Adding custom details

• Off-the-shoulder straps: This is a popular alteration, especially for brides who want a combination of a strapless look with some extra support and coverage. Off-the-shoulder straps can be added to any gown style, creating a romantic and elegant look.
• Sleeves: Whether you want long, lace sleeves or something more simple, adding sleeves can be a beautiful way to customise your gown. This is a good option if you want more coverage or if you want to add a unique detail to your dress.
• Train length: Adding a train to your gown can create a dramatic and elegant look. You can choose the length and style of the train to complement your overall wedding vision.
• Lace appliqués and beading: These delicate details can add a touch of glamour and sophistication to your gown. Lace appliqués can be used to enhance the bodice, sleeves, or skirt of your dress, while beading can be used to add sparkle and texture.
• Bustles: A bustle is a practical and elegant solution for managing the train of your dress during the reception. It involves creating a loop or button at the waist or hip level, allowing the train to be lifted and creating a more comfortable and dance-friendly silhouette.
• Buttons: Adding buttons down the back or on the sleeves of your dress can be a beautiful and functional detail. They can be used to secure a train, create a detachable train, or simply add a decorative element.

When adding custom details, it is important to consider the timeline and budget for your gown. More extensive changes may require additional time and budget, so be sure to communicate your vision and expectations clearly with your seamstress. Additionally, don't be afraid to ask for recommendations and suggestions from your seamstress, as they have a wealth of experience and can help you create a truly unique and stunning wedding gown.

Choosing an independent seamstress

Experience

It is crucial to work with an experienced seamstress, especially one who has expertise in wedding gowns or formal wear. Ask for references, photos of previous work, or reviews from other brides. Be sure to inquire about their experience with wedding gowns specifically, as altering a wedding gown requires unique skills and knowledge.

Cost

Cost is an important consideration when choosing an independent seamstress. On-site alterations at a bridal boutique tend to be more expensive, as they include overhead costs. Independent seamstresses often offer more competitive pricing. Compare prices and ask for quotes from multiple seamstresses to find the best value.

Timelines

Discuss timelines and availability with your seamstress. Wedding dress alterations typically start around eight weeks before the wedding, but some seamstresses can work with shorter timelines if needed. Be sure to allow enough time for multiple fittings, as this is key to achieving the perfect fit.

Communication

Building a good relationship with your seamstress is essential. Don't be afraid to discuss your concerns, budget, and specific alterations you need. A good seamstress will listen to your needs and work with you to create your dream dress.

Research

Do your research before selecting an independent seamstress. Check reviews on sites like Yelp or Facebook to get insights from other customers. Ask for recommendations from friends, family, or colleagues who have recently been brides. You can also contact local fabric or sewing stores for recommendations.

Questions to Ask

When considering an independent seamstress, ask them questions such as:

• How many years of experience do you have, and how many wedding gowns have you altered?
• Can you tell me your prices for specific alterations (e.g., taking in the sides, shortening the dress, etc.)?
• How quickly can the dress be altered?
• How many fittings are required?
• Is the gown steamed after alterations?
• What is your schedule, and when can I expect to receive my altered gown?

By following these tips and choosing an experienced, reputable independent seamstress, you can ensure that your wedding gown will be perfectly tailored to you, creating a flawless look for your special day.

Scheduling dress fittings

Number of Fittings

It is common to have three to four fittings to ensure your wedding gown fits perfectly. The first fitting usually takes place about eight weeks before the wedding, and the final fitting is typically scheduled for one to two weeks before the big day. If you require bespoke customizations, such as adding sleeves or changing the neckline, you may need to schedule additional fittings.

What to Bring to Fittings

It is essential to bring your wedding shoes and undergarments, such as your bra and shapewear, to each fitting. This ensures that the seamstress can achieve the correct length and fit for your gown. If you plan to wear specific jewellery or accessories, bring them along as well, especially if you want advice on how to style your entire look.

Who to Bring to Fittings

Consider bringing a relative, bridesmaid, or trusted friend to your fittings. They can provide support and help you feel more relaxed during the process. Additionally, they can learn the "mechanics" of your dress, such as how to zip it, button it, or attach/detach sleeves. It is also a good idea to have them take a video of your seamstress showing how to create the bustle, as this can be complex.

Fitting Timeline

3-4 months before the wedding: If your dress requires significant alterations or bespoke customizations, this is the time to start. Discuss the alterations timeline with your seamstress and get an idea of how much time they will need.

2-3 months before the wedding: Schedule your first fitting. The seamstress will go over every aspect of the dress and pin areas that need adjustments. Bring your shoes and undergarments to this and all subsequent fittings.

1 month before the wedding: This is the time for minor adjustments and final tweaks. Communicate any reservations or concerns you have with your seamstress.

2 weeks before the wedding: The final fitting is a quality check to ensure that all adjustments from previous fittings are as planned. It is also your last chance to make any necessary changes.

Additional Tips

• Start the fitting process early to reduce stress and leave enough time for alterations.
• Schedule your fittings with the same seamstress to ensure consistency and a good understanding of your vision.
• Speak up during your fittings. If you want a tighter or looser fit in certain areas, let your seamstress know.
• Be prepared for each fitting to take some time, especially the first one, which may last about an hour.
• The cost of wedding dress alterations can vary depending on the work required and the seamstress's rates.

Frequently asked questions