Handcrafted Gold Wedding Rings: A Step-By-Step Guide

Hand-crafting a gold wedding ring is a rewarding endeavour that can be done at home with the right tools and materials. It is a great way to create a unique and meaningful piece of jewellery, whether for yourself or a loved one. The process typically involves gathering gold scraps or nuggets, designing the ring, melting and moulding the gold, and finishing it with sanding and polishing. One popular method is the hammer and anvil technique, which allows for the creation of a pure 24-karat gold ring similar to those worn by ancient rulers. This method results in a ring with a beautiful patina that develops over time and can be easily reshaped if desired. Another approach is to use casting techniques, such as lost wax casting, which involves creating a wax or rubber mould and pouring melted gold into it. Whether using the hammer and anvil or casting method, making a handcrafted gold wedding ring requires careful planning, precision, and attention to detail.

Sourcing gold

Buying Gold

You can buy gold in various forms, such as gold nuggets, gold bars, or even old gold jewellery. When purchasing gold, it is essential to consider the purity of the gold and the amount required for your project. Typically, you will need around 5 grams of pure gold to make a single ring. Keep in mind that the gold's purity will determine its softness and durability. The higher the purity, the softer the gold, and the more prone it will be to scratches and wear.

Recycling Old Gold Jewellery

If you have old gold jewellery that you no longer want, you can recycle it to create your wedding ring. This option allows you to give new life to your old jewellery and create a unique piece with sentimental value. You can collect scraps or broken pieces of gold jewellery and melt them down to form your ring.

Gold Prospecting

For those feeling adventurous, you can try your hand at gold prospecting. This involves searching for gold in historic sites, rivers, or other locations known for gold deposits. Keep in mind that this option requires time, effort, and the necessary tools and equipment for prospecting. Additionally, the gold you find may be mixed with other minerals or contaminants, such as black sand, which will need to be separated and purified before you can use it to create your ring.

Purchasing from Goldsmiths or Jewellers

If you don't want to deal with the hassle of melting and purifying your gold, you can purchase gold directly from goldsmiths or jewellers. They will have the expertise and equipment to melt and purify the gold for you. However, keep in mind that most goldsmiths will not work with raw gold dust and will require you to provide a certain amount of gold, typically around 4-5 grams, to create a ring.

Combining Gold with Other Metals

When creating a gold ring, keep in mind that pure gold is very soft and may not be suitable for everyday wear. To increase the durability of your ring, you can combine gold with other metals such as silver and copper. This process, known as alloying, will create a harder and more robust material for your ring. A typical gold ring is usually 14K gold, which means it contains 58.3% gold and 41.7% other metals.

Tools and equipment

To make a handcrafted gold wedding ring, you will need a variety of tools and equipment. Here is a detailed list:

Anvil: A steel plate, preferably smooth, serves as a sturdy surface for shaping the gold.

Hammer: A smooth, light, and rounded goldsmith's hammer is ideal, but any flat hammer will work.

Polishing Material: Various polishes and techniques can be used to enhance the appearance of the gold.

Heat Source: A disposable propane torch with a pinhead nozzle is suitable for melting gold.

Steel Mandrel: This tool helps size the ring to the desired dimensions.

Needle-nose Pliers: Used to hold the gold securely while hammering.

Charcoal Block or Crucible Bowl: Provides a surface for melting the gold.

Jeweller's Saw: Allows for a clean cut when sizing the gold strip.

Welding Equipment: Including a welding coverall, mask, and gloves to protect yourself from heat, sparks, and flames during the melting process.

Butane or Acetylene Torch: Used to heat the gold in a ceramic crucible.

Ring Molds: Rubber or wax molds are available to create the desired ring shape, or you can purchase ready-made ring molds.

Sanding Tools: Sanding surfaces, a Dremel tool, and sandpaper of varying grits (up to 1500) are useful for smoothing and shaping the ring.

Brazing Supplies: Including solder and an oxy-acetylene torch for joining the ring together and attaching the setting.

These tools and equipment will enable you to create a handcrafted gold wedding ring, from melting the gold to shaping, soldering, and polishing the final product.

Shaping the ring

Firstly, you will need to decide on the width and thickness of your ring. This will determine the size of the gold strip you will be working with. Use a hammer and anvil or a hand-cranked extruder to shape your gold into a strip with the desired dimensions. Remember to anneal the metal after each step that reshapes it, to ensure it maintains its strength and durability.

Next, cut the gold strip to size, ensuring it forms a cylinder with flat ends. This will make it easier to bend the strip into an oval shape without the ends overlapping too much. You can use needle-nose pliers to hold the gold while hammering, for more precision and control.

Now, it's time to bend the strip into an oval. This can be done using a male/female-type machine, where the male cylinder fits inside the female hollow half-cylinder, and the gold strip is placed in between. Crank the machine to round out the gold strip, repeating the process until you achieve an oval shape with the ends nearly touching.

At this stage, you will braze the oval together to form a solid ring. Use an oxy-acetylene torch to heat the platinum until it glows red, and then apply the solder to create a strong joint. Don't forget to pickle the platinum after brazing.

Finally, it's time to transform the oval into a circle. Use a mandrel to hammer the oval into a circular shape, flipping the ring frequently to ensure an even finish. You can also use a manual press to compact the ring and achieve the desired ring size. Sand the ring as needed to smooth out any imperfections and create a uniform shape.

By following these steps, you will have a basic gold ring shape that can be further refined and polished to create a beautiful handcrafted wedding ring.

Joining the ends

Firstly, you will need to cut the gold strip to size. The length of the strip will depend on the desired width and thickness of your ring. A jeweller's saw is ideal for this step as it allows for a clean cut, but wire cutters can also be used. Overlap the ends of the gold strip slightly before cutting to ensure they meet up cleanly when joined.

Now, for the joining process. This can be done through brazing or fusing. Brazing involves using an oxy-acetylene torch to heat up the gold until it is glowing red, and then applying solder to create a solid joint. It is important to heat the gold first and then focus the heat on the solder to avoid melting the gold. Fusing, on the other hand, involves using a third piece of thin gold to help join the ends. If the gold collapses before fusing, simply try again. Once fused, any excess gold can be hammered into the rest of the ring.

After joining the ends, you can hammer the ring to size and shape it as desired. If the gold becomes difficult to mould, heat it up slightly. However, avoid heating it too much towards the end to ensure the gold is strong. You can also use needle files to smooth the inside of the ring, making it more comfortable to wear.

Finally, finish the ring by polishing it to bring out the deep, dull yellow colour of pure gold. Various polishes and techniques can be used to achieve the desired finish.

Polishing and finishing

Now that your ring is shaped, it's time to polish and finish it. Polishing will give your ring a smooth, shiny surface, while finishing will ensure it is comfortable and safe to wear. Here are the steps to achieve this:

Sanding

Start by sanding the ring to smooth out any rough spots and create an even surface. Use a flat sanding surface for the sides and a rotary tool, such as a Dremel, for the sides and interior. Be careful not to sand too aggressively, especially if you have already added the setting.

Soldering

If you haven't already, solder the setting in place. This will ensure it is secure and create a strong joint. Use an oxy-acetylene torch to heat the platinum until it is glowing red, then apply the solder. Be careful not to overheat the platinum, as it may melt.

Polishing

To achieve a high shine, use a polishing material of your choice. You can also use various polishes and techniques to bring out the deep dull yellow colour of pure gold. For example, you can use a pencil tip sander to remove any excess solder and create a smooth finish.

Filing

File the inside edge of the ring with needle files to make it comfortable to wear. This step will ensure that the ring doesn't irritate the wearer's finger and that it can be easily taken on and off.

Final Inspection

Inspect your ring by looking through the ring hole, trying it on, and examining the surface. If you are not satisfied, you can reheat and reshape the ring until you are happy with the result. Remember that repeated melting may decrease the chemical value of the gold.

Frequently asked questions