Rhiannon Hendricks
Wedding dress bustles are a great way to prepare your gown for the reception, especially if you have a long or elaborate train. A bustle allows you to move around and dance freely without worrying about guests stepping on your train. There are several ways to add a bustle to your wedding dress, including the American, Ballroom, French, Austrian, and Royal bustle. This article will focus on the American bustle, also known as the over-bustle, and how to make one yourself.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To allow the bride to move around after the ceremony without worrying about guests stepping on the train |
| When to bustle the dress | Between the wedding and reception |
| Who should do it | Maid of honour or another member of the bridal party |
| Types of bustles | American, Ballroom, French, Austrian, Royal, Bow |
| American/Over-bustle | The train is pulled up and secured over the back of the gown to the waistline |
| French/Under-bustle | The train is pulled up and under the gown, the opposite of the American bustle |
| Ballroom/Train-flip bustle | The train is tucked under the dress and secured at several spots, adding volume to the skirt |
| Austrian bustle | Gathering the fabric along the back middle of the skirt, creating a visual masterpiece |
| How to create an over-bustle | Attach an eye hook or button to the outside of the dress near the lower back, attach a lower tie halfway down the back of the skirt, connect the hook and eye to lift the skirt off the floor |
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What You'll Learn
Sewing on buttons or hooks
Sewing buttons or hooks is an important part of creating a bustle on a wedding dress. A bustle is a way to lift the train of the dress so that it doesn't drag on the floor, allowing the bride to move around and dance freely. There are several types of bustles, including the American bustle, French bustle, Austrian bustle, and Ballroom bustle.
The American bustle, also known as the over-bustle, is one of the simplest and most popular types. It is created by attaching the midpoint of the train to a button or eye hook on the upper part of the back of the skirt. This can be done with one point of connection for lighter dresses or multiple points for heavier fabric or longer trains. The buttons or hooks should be attached high up on the train, near the lower back, and can be hidden in the seams with creative decoration or embroidery.
For the French bustle, the train fabric is pulled up and under the gown, which is the opposite of the American bustle. This type of bustle is often created with ribbons at each bustle point to hide the attachment and create a seamless look.
The Austrian bustle is more complicated to create but easier for bridesmaids to secure in place. It involves running a ribbon through a back seam and pulling it to create a ruched or ruffled effect down the back of the gown.
The Ballroom bustle, also known as the train-flip bustle, does not change the overall look of the dress. The fabric is tucked up under the dress and secured at several points, creating a floor-length version of the gown that is easy to dance and move in.
When sewing buttons or hooks for a wedding dress bustle, it is important to consider the placement and number of buttons or hooks needed, as well as the type of fabric and train length. It is also a good idea to practice sewing on similar fabric before starting the actual dress.
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Using loops to fasten the train
An over bustle is a simple type of bustle that can be created by attaching the mid-point of your train to a button on the upper part of the back of the skirt of your dress. This can be done with one point of connection, especially on dresses that are light and do not have a long train, or through multiple points for heavier fabric or a longer train.
To use loops to fasten the train, you can sew loops to the back of the dress, halfway up the length of the bride's train. Thread the needle by doubling up the thread and inserting it into the needle. Tie the end of the thread with a knot to secure it. Insert the needle into the underside of the dress and pull the thread all the way through. Make a small stitch and pull the thread most of the way through to create a loop. Grab the loop and pull the remaining thread through to create a knot. Once the loops have been added to the dress, fasten them to buttons or hooks.
If you are looking for a more secure option, you can choose a bustle with more points, or loops and buttons that meet to hold the train, as they offer more support and can support more weight. This is especially important if you intend to dance the night away.
Another option is to use a Trainloop, which does not require any sewing. The two pieces simply pin through your dress and then hook together when you want to lift up your train.
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Adding a tie to the underside seam
Firstly, decide on the placement of the tie. Attach a tie on the underside seam of the skirt, ensuring that the length of the tie is appropriate so that when the bustling is complete, the skirt hem is slightly off the floor. This tie should be placed halfway up the length of the bride's train. You can use a safety pin to mark the spot temporarily.
Next, sew an eye hook to the very end of the train. This hook will be used to attach to the tie, so ensure it is securely sewn. You can use embroidery or beading to conceal the hook and make it less visible.
Then, attach the tie to the eye hook. Pull the tie so that the skirt bunches up slightly and adjust the fabric to create a voluminous and elegant bustle. This step may require some experimentation to get the desired amount of bunching and volume.
Finally, check the overall look of the dress. Ensure that the tie is not visible from the outside and that the eye hook is concealed. Adjust the placement of the eye hook and tie if needed to achieve the desired look.
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Using ribbons to create a French bustle
Ribbons can be used to create a French bustle on a wedding dress. This bustle style is also known as an underbustle, and it tucks the train of the dress underneath, creating a cascading effect. This bustle style works particularly well with dresses that have a natural waistline.
To create a French bustle with ribbons, begin by working with the dress inside out on a dress form. Separate the lining from the dress at the bottom of the zipper or corset area. Measure 23 inches from the floor-length point to create your first attachment location at the centre point. Secure plastic rings to the seam allowances, ensuring they face upward. Prepare your ribbon attachments, and consider using red ribbons as they are easily visible during bustling but remain hidden when the dress is down.
When attaching ribbons, start with the centre point, and work outward to create additional pickup points. Stitch the ribbons to the seam allowance, threading the ends through the rings, and tying them in a bow. You can also add a small spot of colour to the end of each ribbon and the corresponding ring, to allow the bridesmaids to bustle the gown quickly.
For a fluffier appearance, focus on marking points along existing seams, and ensure all layers are properly aligned through the pickup points. Check that the bustle is sewn through all train layers for proper support, and adjust the positioning to showcase any decorative elements. Practice the bustling process several times before the wedding day, and set aside specific time between the ceremony and reception for bustling.
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Choosing the right bustle for your dress
Choosing the right bustle for your wedding dress is an important consideration. A bustle is an alteration made to the back of a wedding dress that is meant to lift the train off the ground and secure it to the dress. Wedding gown trains are often long, so the purpose of a bustle is to tie the train up into a manageable length, allowing the bride to move around freely and dance without worrying about guests stepping on the train.
There are several types of bustles, each with a different look, but they all benefit the wearer of the dress in the same basic way. The right choice will depend on the silhouette of the gown, the amount of fabric, and how you plan to wear your dress. A bridal stylist or seamstress can help you decide which is the best choice for your particular dress.
One popular option is the American bustle, also known as an over-bustle. This style is created by lifting the outside of the train and securing it over the back of the gown to the waistline. It can be done with one point of connection, especially on lighter dresses without a long train, or through multiple points for a heavier fabric or longer train. This style adds drama to the back by creating a cascading feel as the fabric folds flow over the rest of the skirt.
Another option is the ballroom bustle, which is one of the most flattering wedding dress bustle types on most dress silhouettes because it completely hides the train without changing the look of the dress. Multiple bustle points are sewn around the bodice, allowing the fabric to fold into itself delicately, giving the illusion that it was a floor-length gown all along.
The French bustle, also known as the under-bustle, is the opposite of the American style as it has the train fold under itself instead of over. The end look is an understated, two-layer hem that creates design in the back.
Other options include the royal bustle and the bow bustle. Ultimately, the choice of bustle will depend on the style of the wedding dress and the bride's personal preference.
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