George Boyle
A wedding dress bustle is a key ingredient in safeguarding your dress and its train against potential damage. It is a tailoring technique that lifts the train of a wedding dress off the floor, fastening it securely to the gown's back. It is essential for ensuring your gown stays pristine and practical for the reception. While professional seamstresses typically handle the initial bustle setup, understanding the mechanics helps you choose the right style and ensure proper placement. Learning how to make an underbustle, also known as a French bustle, for a wedding dress can be done yourself for a fraction of the cost.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | Prevent tripping hazards, Protect the fabric from damage, Transform the look of a dress, giving it a polished and party-ready appearance |
| Types | American, French (Under Bustle), Ballroom (Austrian), English, Bow, Train-Flip, Overbustle |
| Installation | Sewing loops, attaching buttons or hooks, stitching securely, adding lace appliqués to conceal buttons or hooks |
| Considerations | Dress silhouette, personal preference, fabric type, length of train, number of layers, durability |
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What You'll Learn
French bustle
A French bustle, also known as an under-bustle, is a technique that tucks the train of a wedding dress under itself, creating a cascading, layered effect. This style is ideal for gowns with dramatic trains or voluminous skirts, enhancing their elegance. It is best installed by a skilled seamstress to ensure durability.
To create a French bustle, you will need a wedding dress (ideally with a satin A-line silhouette, three seams in the back, and a chapel train or longer), a dress form or mannequin, a measuring tape, and ribbons. The process is time-consuming and intricate, so it is important to be patient and give yourself enough time.
Begin by placing the dress form in the middle of a protective sheet or blanket. Adjust the measurements to be about two inches smaller than the dress. Put the dress inside out on the form, and if it has beadwork, cover the form with a sheet first to protect the details. Find the center seam of the train, which should be the longest point, and flatten it to see how long the train is. Determine the "floor length," or where the hem would be without a train.
Next, place a straight pin at the desired location of the pouf, keeping the correct distance between them. Sew on ribbons to create the loops that will be used for fastening. For a three-point French bustle, measure off to the side of the center seam, about seven or eight inches, and repeat the process. Once all the ribbons are sewn on, tie them together.
Finally, attach buttons or hooks to the waistline where you made pin marks. Make sure to stitch securely and use interfacing under each one for additional reinforcement if needed. You can now fasten the loops to the buttons or hooks, creating the French bustle. Adjust the folds of fabric to achieve the desired voluminous effect.
The French bustle is a stunning option that adds elegance to a wedding dress while also serving a practical purpose by lifting the train off the floor, making it easier for the bride to move and preventing potential damage to the fabric.
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Victorian bustle
A bustle is a key feature of a wedding dress, transforming its look and making it easier to move around in. It is a technique that lifts the train of the dress off the floor, fastening it securely to the gown's back. This prevents tripping and protects the fabric from damage.
The Victorian bustle, also known as the royal bustle, is a type of under bustle. It is created by hooking the fabric at multiple points underneath the skirt, adding more dimension to the silhouette. This style is perfect for gowns with a statement bow or sash at the back, as the fabric is folded above the gown and secured with ties hidden under the bow. The Victorian bustle can also be used to create a dramatic and voluminous effect, ideal for big ball gowns and A-line silhouettes.
To create a Victorian bustle, you will need to attach buttons or hooks to the waistline of the dress. These will be used to secure the train and create the bustle. You can use either hooks or buttons, depending on your preference and the style of the dress. If you use hooks, you may want to add a small piece of interfacing under each one for additional reinforcement.
Once the hooks or buttons are in place, you can create the loops that will be fastened to them. Use strong thread to thread the needle, knotting the ends together. Insert the needle at the pin, next to the seam line, and pull it through to the other side, making a small backstitch. Pull the thread to create a loop that is approximately 1-2 inches in length.
Finally, adjust the folds of fabric on the train to create the desired voluminous effect. If you prefer a cleaner look, you can conceal the hooks or buttons by hand-sewing lace appliqués on top of them.
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Ballroom bustle
A bustle is a key element in safeguarding your wedding dress and its train from potential damage. It also allows you to move freely without worrying about guests stepping on your train.
The ballroom bustle, also known as the Austrian bustle, is a unique style that elegantly conceals the length of the train by tucking it under the gown, creating the illusion of a floor-length gown with no train at all. This style is perfect for formal weddings, creating a seamless transition from the ceremony to the reception. It is particularly well-suited for structured gowns with heavy fabrics.
To create this style, multiple bustle points are sewn around the bodice, allowing the fabric to fold into itself delicately. This results in a seamless illusion, with several points added under the dress for the train to attach to. This is in contrast to the American bustle, which has several hooks at the waistline that enable the train to be lifted and hooked over the top of the gown.
The ballroom bustle is one of the most flattering wedding dress bustle types as it completely hides the train without changing the look of the dress. It works on a variety of silhouettes, giving the effect of no bustle at all, and allowing the gown to float across the ballroom floor.
To ensure the bustle is secure, use strong thread to thread the needle, then knot the ends together. Place a small piece of interfacing on the topside of the dress's train, wherever you made a pin marking. Insert the needle at the pin, next to the seam line, then pull it through the interfacing and train. Make a small backstitch from the right side of the train, pulling the thread to make a loop.
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Train-flip bustle
The train-flip bustle, also known as the ballroom bustle, is a simple and modern approach to altering a wedding dress. It is a variation of the under bustle, which tucks the train underneath the skirt. This style is perfect for ball gowns, giving the effect of no bustle at all. The train-flip bustle achieves this by completely hiding the train underneath the gown, creating an even fuller skirt.
To create this look, the train is flipped and hooked at the waistline, with the fabric tucked up and secured at several different spots. This variation of the bustle is ideal for brides who want to dance and move around freely without worrying about guests stepping on their train. It is also a good option for outdoor weddings, as it keeps the train off the ground.
When creating a train-flip bustle, it is important to use strong thread to secure the buttons or hooks that will be used to fasten the train. These buttons or hooks should be stitched securely to withstand the weight of the train. If desired, lace appliqués can be hand-sewn over the buttons or hooks to conceal them.
The train-flip bustle is a simple yet effective way to transform a wedding dress, allowing the bride to move with ease and elegance throughout the reception. It is a good option for those who want to preserve the beauty and elegance of their gown while still being able to fully enjoy their special day.
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Sewing hooks and buttons
To sew hooks and buttons for an under-bustle, you will need to first decide on the placement of the hooks and buttons. Mark these spots with pins. You will then need to sew the buttons or hooks onto the waistline of the dress at these marked spots. Make sure to stitch securely, as you don't want the bustle to come undone. You can also attach a small piece of interfacing under each button or hook for additional reinforcement.
To make the button loops, use strong thread to thread the needle, then knot the ends together. Place a small piece of interfacing on the topside of the dress's train, wherever you made a pin marking for a button loop. Insert the needle at the pin, next to the seam line, and pull it through the interfacing and train. Make a small backstitch from the right side of the train, pulling the thread to create a loop that is 1" to 2" long.
Once the loops have been added, you can fasten the train to the buttons or hooks, adjusting the folds of fabric to create a fuller and more voluminous bustle. If you don't like the look of exposed buttons or hooks, you can hand-sew lace appliqués on top of them to conceal them.
Some people also recommend using a crochet hook to fasten the buttons on a wedding dress, as it is quicker and easier than sewing. You can also use a bobby pin in a pinch if you don't have a crochet hook.
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Frequently asked questions
An underbustle, also known as a French bustle, is when the fabric of a wedding dress is tied up underneath the skirt. This creates a beautiful layered effect.
An underbustle is ideal for wedding gowns with dramatic trains or voluminous skirts, as it enhances their elegance. It is also a good option for brides who want to preserve the beauty of their dress design and protect the fabric from damage.
To make an underbustle, you will need to sew loops and buttons or hooks onto the underside of the dress. You can then fasten the loops to the buttons or hooks, creating a bustle that blends in flawlessly with the dress. It is recommended to practice this process before the wedding day and seek help from professionals or the bridal party.
