Franklin Dean
A wedding dress train can be bustled in several ways to allow the bride to move around freely and comfortably during the reception. The most common types of bustles are the French bustle and the American bustle. The French bustle, also known as the Victorian or underbustle, tucks the train underneath the dress, favoring gowns with a more natural waistline. The American bustle, on the other hand, has hooks scattered throughout the waistline, lifting and hooking the train over the top of the gown. Brides can choose from different styles of bustles, including wrist loops, ribbons, buttons, and ties, to achieve their desired look and functionality. While some brides opt to bustle their dresses themselves, it is often recommended to seek the help of a professional seamstress or a loved one to ensure the bustle is secure and well-executed.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose of bustling a wedding dress | To allow the bride to move around freely and comfortably, without worrying about guests stepping on the train, tripping over it, or soiling the dress |
| When to bustle the dress | Between the ceremony and reception, or after the first dance |
| Who bustles the dress | The maid of honour, a bridesmaid, parent, close friend, or the bride herself |
| Types of bustles | American (overbustle), French (underbustle), wrist bustle |
| What is needed for bustling | Hooks, ties, buttons, loops, ribbons, thread, needle, safety pins, interfacing |
| How to bustle | Sew hooks, ties, buttons, or loops onto the back of the dress; adjust folds of fabric to create a voluminous bustle |
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What You'll Learn
Sewing loops, buttons, hooks, ties, or ribbons to the dress
Sewing Loops
Loops can be added to the underside of the train, enabling the bride to carry it from her wrist. This option is especially useful if the bride does not want to dance with the train flowing. It is important to note that wrist loops are not designed to be used for an extended period, as they can be inconvenient when greeting guests. To sew a loop, place a safety pin halfway up the length of the train to mark the position of the loop. Double up a thread and insert it into a needle, then knot the end. Insert the needle into the underside of the dress, pull the thread through, and make a small stitch. Pull the thread most of the way through to create a loop, then grab the loop and pull the remaining thread through to secure it.
Sewing Buttons and Hooks
Buttons and hooks are commonly used to secure the train to the dress. They can be sewn along the waistline, with hooks lifting and securing the train over the gown. For a French bustle, hooks are used to tuck the train underneath the silhouette of the dress, creating a natural waistline. To conceal exposed buttons or hooks, hand-sew lace appliqués on top of them.
Sewing Ties
Ties can be attached to the underside of the skirt, connecting to eye hooks at the end of the train. Pulling on the ties bunches up the skirt, creating a puffy appearance. It is important to position the ties correctly, high enough to hold the skirt off the ground, but not too close to each other. Multiple ties can be used, especially for longer trains, and colour-coding or numbering the ends can help identify which ties go together.
Sewing Ribbons
Ribbons are often used in conjunction with hooks, especially for French bustles, to connect and secure the fabric. They can also be used to create a drawstring effect, where pulling on the ribbon gathers the train.
It is recommended to work with a seamstress to choose the best bustling method for your dress, and to practice bustling before the wedding day.
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Creating a French bustle by tucking the train under the dress
Creating a French bustle, also known as a Victorian bustle or underbustle, involves tucking the train of the wedding dress under the fabric to create the illusion of a floor-length gown with a full bottom. This style favours gowns with a more natural waistline and is achieved by using hooks to pick up the train and tuck it under the silhouette of the dress. Ribbons are often attached to connect and secure the fabric, with multiple pickup points for added flair.
To create a French bustle, start by identifying the ribbon or cord running down the middle of the train. Pull on this cord to gather the fabric, similar to pulling a drawstring. Secure the ribbon or cord at the designated point, usually along the centre back seam of the dress. You can also use safety pins to secure the folds of the train and create a fuller, more voluminous bustle. Ensure that the pins are well-hidden within the folds of the fabric.
If you are using hooks, sew them onto the back of the dress, along the waistline. You can also use buttons or loops to secure the bustle. Place a safety pin on the back of the dress, halfway up the length of the train, to mark the position of the loop. Thread a needle with strong thread, doubling up the thread for added strength, and insert it into the underside of the dress. Pull the thread through, make a small stitch, and pull it most of the way through to create a loop. Grab the loop with your fingers and pull the remaining thread through to create a knot. Repeat this process to create multiple loops if needed.
Practice the bustling process before the wedding day, as it can be tricky to master. Assign someone you trust, such as your maid of honour or a responsible bridesmaid, to be in charge of bustling your dress. They can attend your final dress fitting to learn how to bustle the train and make sure it is done correctly on your wedding day.
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Creating an American bustle with hooks scattered along the waistline
To create an American bustle, you will need to sew hooks along the waistline of the dress. The number of hooks can vary depending on the desired look and the length of the train. For an ultra-dramatic look, you can have up to five bustle pick-up points. Place the hooks along the waistline where you want the train to be lifted and secured. Make sure to stitch them securely, as you don't want the bustle to come undone during the wedding. If the hooks need additional reinforcement, attach a small piece of interfacing under each one.
Once the hooks are in place, you can move on to creating the loops or buttons that will attach to them. Use strong thread to create the loops, and place them on the train of the dress where the pin markings for the loops are located. You can also sew buttons onto the train, concealing them with embroidery or beading if desired.
After the loops or buttons are attached, you can fasten them to the hooks to create the bustle. Adjust the folds of fabric on the train to create a fuller and more voluminous look. If you prefer a discreet look for the bustle, you can hand-sew lace appliqués on top of the hooks or buttons to conceal them.
It is important to note that American bustles may not be as strong as other types of bustles, so there is a chance they may break during the wedding. Always have a trusted person, such as your maid of honour or a bridesmaid, who can help with any necessary adjustments throughout the day.
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Adding a wrist loop to carry the train
A wrist loop is a great option for brides who want to be able to pick up their dress quickly and easily, especially when walking between locations or getting into a car. It is also a good choice for brides who want to showcase the full length of their dress during the ceremony, but don't want to worry about the train during the reception.
A wrist loop can be easily added to most wedding dresses. One way to do this is by using a 1/2" wide piece of double-sided satin ribbon. This ribbon should be long enough to slip easily onto the wrist and is sewn to the centre back seam on the underside of the train about 1/3 of the way up from the hem. Then, a small opening is made in the seam, through which the loop is slipped to the outer side of the train. This allows the bride to place the loop around her wrist. Traditionally, the loop is worn on the right wrist for the first dance and then moved to the left wrist to give the other arm a rest.
It is important to note that trains can get very heavy, especially when dancing, so while a wrist loop is a good option for occasional use, a bustle may be more practical for long-term use. A wrist loop can also be used in conjunction with a bustle, allowing the bride to choose when to let the train flow and move naturally.
There are several types of bustles available, including the American bustle, French bustle, Ballroom bustle, and Train Flip bustle. Each of these methods uses hooks, buttons, ribbons, or loops to secure the train and create more movement and freedom for the bride. A bustle can be created by a seamstress and is often an easy addition to a wedding dress.
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Practising bustling the dress before the wedding day
Practising bustling a wedding dress before the big day is a good idea to ensure the bride can move around and dance freely without tripping over her dress. Here are some tips for practising bustling the dress:
Assign a trusted person to be in charge of bustling
It is a good idea to designate someone you trust, such as your maid of honour, another bridesmaid, or a close friend, to be in charge of bustling the dress. This person can attend the final dress fitting to learn how to bustle the dress and practise doing it. They can even take notes or a video of the process to refer back to on the wedding day.
Practise different bustling styles
There are several types of bustles, including the American bustle and French bustle, each with a unique look and method. It is important to familiarise yourself with these various styles before the final fitting and speak to your seamstress about the best option for your dress. Practise different bustling styles to see which one works best for the dress and is most manageable for the person in charge of bustling.
Prepare an emergency kit
Despite careful preparation, there is always a chance that the bustle may break during the wedding. It is a good idea to prepare an emergency kit with a sewing needle, clear fishing line, and large safety pins to quickly fix any issues. Practise using these items to fix different types of breaks, such as a loose ribbon or a broken hook, to ensure a smooth repair on the wedding day.
Take photos before bustling
It is recommended to take most of the wedding photos before bustling the dress, as the train adds a beautiful dimension to the photos. Practise bustling the dress before taking photos to ensure the timing is right, and the train is showcased in its full glory during the photo session.
Practise dancing with the bustle
If the bride plans on dancing at the wedding, it is crucial to practise dancing with the bustle in place. This will help ensure that the bustle stays secure and does not hinder the bride's movements during the wedding. Practise different types of dances to ensure the bustle can withstand various movements and that the bride feels comfortable and confident.
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Frequently asked questions
A bustle pulls the back of the wedding dress off the ground so it doesn't get soiled, and the bride can move around with ease. It is usually sewn into the wedding dress using buttons, loops, ties and/or ribbons.
There are two main types of bustle: French and American. A French bustle tucks the train underneath the dress, whereas an American bustle has hooks scattered throughout the waistline of the dress that enable the train to be lifted and hooked over the top of the gown.
You can make a wedding dress train into a bustle by sewing buttons, hooks or loops onto the back of the dress. If you are handy with a needle and thread, you can do this yourself, or you can enlist the help of a seamstress.
