
Wedding dress alterations can be complex and time-consuming, but they are a great way to ensure your gown fits you perfectly. If your wedding dress is too tight in the hips, there are several ways to make it bigger in this area. You can add fabric panels at the back, sides, or underarms, or adjust the dress seams to provide extra room in the hips. Stitching additions neatly and securely is important to maintain the overall look and durability of the dress. You could also detach the skirt from the dress, add a front panel, and reattach it with a gather at the waist. Alternatively, you could replace the zip with a lace-up corset, adding extra room and adjustability.
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What You'll Learn

Adding panels, gussets, or godets to the seams
When making a wedding dress bigger at the hips, one option is to add panels, gussets, or godets to the seams. This method can add circumference to the hips and can be done by adding these elements to the side or back seams. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to do this:
First, assess how much additional room is needed in the hip area. Take accurate measurements to guide your alterations. If you are adding fabric, cut the pieces in the shape of the areas you want to expand. It is important to choose a fabric that matches the dress in colour, texture, and weight as closely as possible.
Next, use a seam ripper to carefully remove the stitching in the areas you want to alter. Pin the additional fabric pieces to the dress, ensuring they align with the existing seams. Focus on one area at a time to maintain the balance of the dress.
Then, sew the extra fabric in place, either by hand or with a sewing machine, following the existing seam lines. Backstitch at the beginning and end of your sewing to secure the fabric. Repeat this process for each area you are altering.
After sewing, iron the seams flat to make them look neat and blend with the rest of the dress. If you had to remove closures like zippers or buttons, reattach them carefully, ensuring they align properly and function correctly.
Finally, try on the dress to ensure a comfortable fit and that the altered areas look natural. It is important to stitch any additions neatly and securely to maintain the overall look and durability of the dress.
When adding gussets to the hip seams, they will likely be visible. To embrace this, you can use a different colour of fabric or try to make it look intentional. Alternatively, you can add godets or refashion the bottom of the dress with a ruffle-tiered skirt.
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Letting out the seams
The first step is to assess whether the dress can be let out. This will depend on the construction and fabric of the dress. For example, if the fabric was dyed with indigo or a similar dye, letting out the seams might reveal darker areas around each seam, making the alteration obvious. It is also important to note that the stitch marks from the original seam lines may be visible on delicate fabrics.
If you decide to proceed with letting out the seams, you will need to gather the right supplies, including a sewing machine, pins, needles, scissors, and a seam ripper. You will also need patience, as this process will take some time.
To begin the process, use a seam ripper to carefully remove the stitching from the seams you want to let out. If possible, it is recommended to stitch the new seam line and then unpick the stitches from the old seam. This will help to ensure that the new seam is secure before removing the old one.
After letting out the seams, you may need to reassemble the dress. This may involve reattaching closures such as zippers or buttons, ensuring they align properly and function correctly. Finally, try on the dress to ensure that the fit is comfortable and the altered areas look natural.
In summary, letting out the seams is a simple way to make a wedding dress bigger at the hips. By using the fabric from the seam allowances, you can increase the overall size of the dress without making any structural changes. However, it is important to carefully assess the dress and gather the necessary supplies before beginning the process.
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Detaching and reattaching the skirt
Firstly, measure the added width you need on each side of the dress and cut strips of fabric accordingly. To ensure an even fit, make sure each strip of fabric is the same width, but adjust the length according to the various parts being altered. For instance, you may need a longer bodice strip than the skirt portion.
Next, carefully detach the skirt from the dress. Pin the fabric strips to the open seams of the skirt, aligning them evenly and ensuring the fabric lays flat and smooth along the entire seam length. Once the fabric is pinned, sew the strips of fabric to the skirt using a sewing machine or by hand. Keep your stitches clean and consistent so that the alteration looks seamless.
After sewing, remove any excess fabric by trimming the seam allowances. Use an iron to press the seams open for a professional finish. Finally, reattach the skirt to the bodice of the dress, ensuring that the new seam blends naturally and gradually into the existing seam.
It is important to note that the original design and shape of the wedding gown should be maintained as much as possible. Therefore, choose a matching fabric and work carefully to ensure a seamless appearance.
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Converting the skirt into a ruffle-style skirt
Converting the skirt of a wedding dress into a ruffle-style skirt is a great way to make the dress bigger in the hips. This method can add width to the hip area and make the dress more comfortable to wear. Here is a step-by-step guide to converting the skirt into a ruffle-style skirt:
Measurements and Fabric Choice:
First, take measurements of your waist and hips. Decide on the desired length of the skirt and the number of ruffles you want. Choose a lightweight fabric such as chiffon, lace, or stretch fabric. You will need about 1 metre (1 yard) of fabric per layer. If you want to double the layer, you will need about 1.5 metres.
Cutting and Sewing the Ruffles:
Cut the fabric into strips for the ruffles. The width of the strips will depend on your desired ruffle width. Sew the strips together to create a long loop, which will be your ruffle loop. Gather the top edge of the ruffle loop and spread the ruffles evenly.
Attaching the Ruffles to the Skirt:
Detach the skirt from the wedding dress. Pin the ruffles to the bottom of the skirt tube and attach them by sewing a straight stitch all the way around. Make sure the ruffles are evenly distributed and secure.
Creating the Waistband:
Create a casing for elastic by doing a double fold at the top of the skirt tube. Thread the elastic through the casing, using a safety pin. Sew the ends of the elastic together and close up the casing. The waistband will add about 1 inch (2.5 cm) to the skirt, so keep this in mind when finalising your measurements.
Final Touches:
Press the hems of the skirt to prevent the fabric from unraveling. Try on the skirt to ensure it fits comfortably and falls to your desired length. Adjust as needed.
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Replacing the zip with a lace-up corset
If your wedding dress is too small, one way to make it bigger is to replace the zip with a lace-up corset. This method will give you a lot more flexibility with sizing and can be done by a professional tailor or yourself.
First, remove the zip from the dress. Next, you will need to stitch fabric loops down each side of the opening, which will be tied together with a ribbon. You can then add a "modesty panel", which sits underneath the lacing and covers the back to just below the hip. The modesty panel is sewn to one side of the dress, while the other side lays across and stays in place once the corset is laced and tied. You can also add a hook and eye or sew on a snap to one side of the modesty panel.
When lacing the corset, you can start from the bottom so there is a bow at the top, or start from the top so the bow is at the bottom. Thread the lacing through the bottom two loops, then lace like a shoelace – back and forth through every other loop.
This method will only add width to the back of the dress, not the front or side seams. However, it is a great way to add extra room to a dress and make it adjustable to your figure.
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Frequently asked questions
There are several ways to make a wedding dress bigger in the hips. You can add fabric panels at the back, sides, or underarms, or adjust the dress seams to provide extra room. You can also add triangle gussets to the side seams, detach the skirt from the dress and reattach it with a gather at the waist, or convert the skirt into a tiered ruffle-style skirt.
First, assess how much additional room you need and take measurements to guide your alterations. Then, find a matching fabric that is similar in colour, texture, and weight. Remove the stitching in the areas you want to make bigger and cut the extra fabric into the shape of the areas you want to expand. Pin the additional fabric pieces to the dress, ensuring they align with the existing seams. Sew the extra fabric in place, following the existing seam lines, and iron the seams flat. Finally, try on the dress to ensure the fit is comfortable and the altered areas look natural.
Gussets added to the hip seams will be visible, so consider using a different colour of fabric or trying to make it look intentional. You can also add diamond-shaped gussets to the side seams, as seen in this video tutorial.
It is important to be mindful of your weight when choosing a wedding dress. It is better to buy a dress that is too big rather than too small. If you need to make your dress bigger, find an experienced seamstress to discuss your options. Making a dress bigger can be complex and time-consuming, and it requires sewing skills and careful planning.











































