Rhiannon Hendricks
There are several ways to make a wedding dress bigger in the back. One way is to add a corset back, which can be done by removing the back zipper and replacing it with a lace-up corset. This gives more flexibility in sizing for the waist and bust. Another option is to add a modesty panel to the back of the dress, which can help to solve the problem of a dress being too small. Additionally, if the dress has extra material in the seam allowances, it can be let out a size without any structural changes. However, this may not be possible if there is not enough fabric, in which case discreet panels can be added to make the dress bigger. It is important to consult with an experienced seamstress to determine the best option for altering a wedding dress.
Characteristics and Values Table for Making a Wedding Dress Bigger in the Back
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Cost | Expensive |
| Techniques | Adding a gusset, converting to a lace-up back, adding a large panel to the back, adding a wider modesty panel, "letting out" the dress, adding discreet panels, adding a corset back |
| Difficulty | Difficult |
| Additional Requirements | Additional fabric, matching fabric, tailor/seamstress |
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What You'll Learn
Adding a lace-up back
Prepare the Materials
Firstly, decide on the type of ribbon you want to use for the lacing. You can use ribbon, fabric strips, or even extra fabric from the hem of the dress. If using ribbon, consider the width and strength; for example, 5/8-inch satin ribbon is substantial but not meant for high stress.
Mark the Zipper Area
Try on the dress and mark the highest point where the zipper can be comfortably closed. Ensure you can sit down in the dress at this zipper height. If there is a hook and eye closure at the top of the zipper, carefully remove it for now and set it aside.
Cut Fabric Strips
Cut fabric strips for the loops and lacing. Cutting the fabric on the bias, at a 45-degree angle, is recommended for the best results. Cut the strips about 1.5 to 2 inches wide, depending on the desired loop size and strength needed.
Sew the Loops
Fold the fabric strips in half and pin them in place on the back of the dress. Ensure the right side of the fabric is facing out and the loops are facing away from the centre. Baste the loops in place, being careful not to sew through the lining if the dress has one.
Create the Modesty Panel
The modesty panel is a piece of fabric that covers the lacing and provides a neat finish. Sew one edge of the modesty panel to the inside edge of the dress opening, overlapping by about half an inch. Stitch along the corset loops to secure the modesty panel. The other edge of the modesty panel will lay across and stay in place once the lacing is complete.
Lace it Up
Thread the ribbon through the loops, starting from the bottom so there's a bow at the top. Lace it like a shoelace, back and forth through each loop. Adjust the tightness of the lacing to achieve the desired fit, being careful not to strain the loops too much.
Final Touches
Once you're happy with the fit, trim any excess ribbon and close the ends by turning them inside and stitching across each opening. Reattach the hook and eye closure at the top of the zipper, if applicable. Your wedding dress now has a beautiful lace-up back and a perfect fit!
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Using fabric from inside the seams
If your wedding dress is a bit too snug, don't panic. The first thing to do is turn the dress inside out and check the side seams to see if there is extra fabric that will allow the dress to be "let out". Wedding dresses often have extra material in the seam allowances, which means they can be let out a size without any structural changes. If there is no extra fabric, you won't be able to let out the dress and will need to consider other options, such as adding panels or restyling the back.
If there is extra fabric, turn the dress inside out and try it on. Use a marking pen to mark the top of where it starts to get tight and the bottom where it starts to fit more comfortably. This will indicate how much of the seam you need to remove. Next, take off the dress and use a seam ripper to remove the seam at one of the sides, starting at the top mark and ending at the bottom. Be careful not to rip any of the fabric while removing the stitches.
If you are dealing with an enclosed seam, you can leave the outer seam intact and there is no need to sew anything up. However, if there is an extra amount of folded fabric, you will need to sew it back up. Make a mark at the desired location for the new seam based on your measurements, and then use a sewing machine to sew it back up.
It is important to note that the downside of letting out a dress is that stitch marks from the original seam lines may be visible on delicate fabrics. However, this problem can often be solved. Additionally, accurate measurements are crucial to successfully enlarging a dress. Always double-check your measurements to ensure they are precise before letting out any fabric.
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Adding a modesty panel
If your wedding dress has a lace-up back, a wider modesty panel may solve the problem of a dress being too small. Modesty panels can be added to the back of a wedding dress to make it bigger. This is a good option if you feel your dress is too low-cut or exposes too much of your back.
If your dress has a side zipper, you can add a diamond gusset to the back of the dress, or even the front, although this may not look as good unless you use a contrasting fabric or cover it with lace. You can also add a modesty panel to a V-neck dress or top. You can use a fabric that matches your dress, or a lace modesty panel. Finish the raw edges of your triangle sides, and then hand-stitch the bottom of your triangle flap to the inside of your dress, just below the neckline opening. Mark where the panel hits the dress when closed, and hand-stitch snaps to both the top of the panel and the inside of the dress. If you don't need access, you can simply hand-stitch the top of the panel in place. If you prefer a removable panel, you can add a third snap at the bottom instead of stitching it to the dress.
If you want to be able to remove the panel, you could find some kind of topper that you can wear in church and then take off later. You could also use illusion mesh with lace appliqué or power mesh, but this would not be detachable. You could also consider a shawl or a scarf to cover your back.
If your dress doesn't have enough fabric to let out, discreet panels can be added to make the dress bigger. You can also add gussets to the side seams to make the zipper fit.
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Adding diamond gussets to the side seams
To add diamond gussets to the side seams, you will need to first cut open the seams and create a 6-inch opening on both sides, with the middle of the armpit seam as the centre. This will allow you to insert the gusset, which should be made from fabric that matches your dress as closely as possible. You can use fabric scraps or even remove pockets or hem the bottom of the dress to create the gusset.
When cutting out the fabric for the gusset, you will need to create a diamond shape with rounded corners to make it easier to sew. Pin one side of the gusset to the dress, with the right sides facing each other, lining up the centre corners of the gusset with the centre of the opening. Carefully sew the gusset to the dress, using a 3/8 inch seam allowance. Remember to go slow and manipulate the fabric around the shape of the gusset.
After sewing one side, repeat the process on the other side, and then turn the dress inside out. This method will add more mobility and space to the underarm area, making the dress more comfortable to wear. It is important to note that adding a diamond gusset can be tricky, so it is best suited for intermediate or advanced sewists.
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Converting to a low back
Converting a wedding dress to a low back is a possible option to make the dress bigger. This can be done by removing the back zipper and replacing it with a corset/lace-up back. This method can add some inches to the dress, making it fit perfectly. The flexibility of a corset back allows for a more accurate fit, as it can be tightened or loosened as needed.
To create a corset back, fabric loops are stitched down each side of the opening and tied together with a ribbon. A "modesty panel" is then added, sitting underneath the lacing and covering the entire back to just below the hip. This panel provides additional coverage and can be made from fabric that matches the dress.
Before making any alterations, it is important to consult with a tailor or seamstress who specializes in wedding dresses. They can advise on the best course of action and provide an estimate of the cost. It is also essential to consider the fabric and structure of the dress, as some materials may not be suitable for a low back conversion.
Additionally, it is worth noting that letting out the seams of a wedding dress is another option to make it bigger. This involves using the extra fabric in the seam allowances to increase the size without any structural changes. However, this method may not provide as much additional room as converting to a low back or adding a corset.
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Frequently asked questions
First, find an experienced seamstress to discuss your options. If your dress has a back zipper, you can replace it with a corset/lace-up back, which will give you more flexibility with sizing. If your dress already has a lace-up back, a wider modesty panel may solve the problem. You can also try letting out the dress by using the extra fabric from the seam allowances, but this will only make the dress bigger by about 1-2 cm on each side.
First, try on the dress and measure how wide the gap is at the top of the back opening. Then, measure the length of the opening. Add 3 or more inches to both measurements to get the top width and length for your modesty panel. Cut two layers of fabric using these measurements. Sew each segment onto the interfacing to create loops.
A gusset is a piece of fabric that can be added to the side seams of your dress to make it bigger. To test if this will work for your dress, open up the side seams and armpit seams (don't cut the material, just the threads in the seams) and try on the dress. If it fits, sew the gussets into the dress.
If your dress has a side zipper, you can add a diamond gusset to the back or front of the dress. You can also disassemble the bodice and spice it, then rebuild it with additional fabric or paneling.
