Junior Rasmussen
Adding tulle to a simple dress can transform it into a magical wedding dress. Tulle has a learning curve, but with some instruction and helpful tips, you can easily take your sewing skills to the next level. Before you get started, there are a few things to remember when working with tulle: it doesn't fray or need hemming, use clips instead of pins, and use a needle designed for lightweight fabrics when gathering the tulle. In this tutorial, we will guide you through the process of creating a stunning tulle wedding dress, from cutting and measuring the tulle to sewing the layers together for a beautiful, ethereal look.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Fabric | Tulle |
| Fabric preparation | Cut tulle fabric with a cutting ruler and rotary cutter to ensure a straight and clean edge |
| Fabric properties | Tulle does not fray and does not need to be hemmed |
| Tools | Use clips instead of pins, pattern weights, cutting ruler, and rotary cutter |
| Needle type | Lightweight fabric needle (size 80/11) |
| Thread type | Use a slightly different colour thread in the bobbin for gathering stitches |
| Tulle type | Avoid inexpensive polyester tulle for crafting |
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What You'll Learn
Cutting the tulle
Cutting tulle for a wedding dress requires careful preparation and execution. Here is a step-by-step guide:
- Begin by cutting out a piece of cardboard with a width of approximately 6 inches (15 cm). The length should be long enough to accommodate the tulle fabric folded in half. This cardboard piece will serve as a straight edge guide for cutting the tulle.
- Take the raw edge of the tulle fabric and use a cutting ruler and a rotary cutter to create a straight and clean edge. Ensure the edge is squared off neatly.
- Place the straightened edge of the tulle fabric underneath the cardboard, allowing 4-5 inches (10-12.5 cm) of excess fabric to extend off to the side. This excess fabric will be folded up and over the cardboard in the next step.
- Fold the excess tulle over the cardboard, and then flip or roll the cardboard over. Continue this process until all of the tulle fabric is rolled onto the bolt. This technique helps keep the tulle organised and manageable.
- Carefully slide the cardboard out from the middle of the rolled tulle. Now you have created a neat, straight edge at the top of your tulle fabric.
- Measure the desired length of tulle needed for the dress and use a rotary cutter to cut through all the tulle layers at once. This ensures a clean, even cut.
- Open up the cut tulle fabric and measure the width required for the dress. Make any necessary adjustments to achieve the desired width, ensuring that the tulle layer remains consistent and symmetrical.
- Repeat this process for each additional tulle layer, remembering that the first layer will be the outermost visible layer of the dress. Each subsequent layer will add volume and depth to the wedding dress.
Remember to use pattern weights to prevent the tulle from shifting during the cutting process, and always use sharp cutting tools for precise edges.
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Sewing the skirt
Prepare the Tulle Fabric:
Begin by cutting out a piece of cardboard approximately 6” (15 cm) in width. Take the tulle fabric and fold it in half, then use a cutting ruler and rotary cutter to square off the raw edge, ensuring a straight and clean edge. Position the edge of the tulle underneath the cardboard with 4-5” (10-12.5 cm) extending to the side. Fold this excess tulle over the cardboard, then flip and roll the cardboard until all the tulle is on the bolt. Remove the cardboard from the middle, and cut off 2-3” (5-7.5 cm) from the top edge to create a straight line. Measure and cut the tulle to the required length and width. Remember, tulle doesn't fray, so you don't need to worry about hemming!
Sewing Process:
Take two pieces of tulle fabric for the skirt and place them right sides together. Sew the side seams using a 1/2” (1.3 cm) seam allowance. Sew a gathering stitch around the top edge of the skirt, using a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance. You may find it easier to manage by dividing the skirt into 2 or 4 equal parts and sewing gathering stitches in sections. Gather the skirt until it matches the width of the bodice, then clip it in place, right sides together. Baste the skirt onto the bodice, using a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance once more. Inspect your work by flipping the dress right side out. If you notice any bunching or puckering, simply rip out the stitches, readjust the tulle, and re-sew those portions until the tulle lays smoothly around the bodice.
Repeat and Finalize:
Repeat the above steps for the second layer of tulle. Draw a straight line 1.5” (3.9 cm) down from the top, raw edge of the underskirt, all the way around the front and back. Remember to use clips instead of pins, and a needle designed for lightweight fabrics when gathering the tulle. Use pattern weights to prevent the tulle from shifting while cutting. Finally, when sewing gathering stitches, consider using a slightly different colour thread in the bobbin to ensure the correct thread is being pulled for gathering.
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Attaching the skirt to the bodice
When attaching the skirt to the bodice of a wedding dress, there are several methods you can use. The first step is to ensure that both sides of the bodice waist seam are of equal length. You can then align the side seams, the centre front, and the centre back of the bodice and skirt, pinning the excess into pleats. You can experiment with different pleat styles, such as double pleats in the back and single pleats in the front, to create a flatter, slimmer line in the front. Once you are happy with the pinned pleats, you can baste them in place.
The next step is to stitch the waistline. Using a sewing machine, stay stitch along the waistline of the skirt and then along the waistline of the bodice, creating an "X" at the point of the V if you are going for a basque (pointed, V-shaped) waistline. You can then pin the bodice to the skirt, starting by matching the side seams and centre front. Using bobbin basting stitches, pull up the gathers of the skirt front to match the bodice front, adjusting the gathers to evenly distribute the fullness. Repeat this process on the other side.
Stitch the bodice to the skirt, following the previous line of stitching, and then trim the seam allowance to 1/4". Serge or zigzag over the seam and press it toward the bodice. On the inside, bring the lining down over the waist seam, ensuring that the folded edge of the lining just covers the line of stitching. Match the side seams and pin the lining in place. Using a slip stitch, regular sewing thread, and a sharps needle, hand stitch the lining to the skirt.
Finally, insert any boning pieces back into their casings and stitch the ends closed. Press the waist seam allowances toward the bodice and catch stitch them in place. You can then fell stitch the lining to the underlining along the waist seam and add any additional details, such as bra strap retainers at the shoulder seams.
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Tips for working with tulle
Working with tulle can be challenging due to its delicate and lightweight nature. Here are some tips to help you work with tulle effectively when creating a wedding dress:
- Tulle is a sheer mesh or net fabric that can be used as an underlayer for support or as a top layer to add volume and softness to a dress. It is commonly used in wedding dresses, tutus, and bridal veils.
- When shopping for tulle, it is advisable to buy more fabric than you think you need. Tulle doesn't fray, so you can always cut out extra layers if your dress becomes too voluminous.
- Marking tulle can be tricky as regular marking tools like chalk or pens may not work. Consider using a cutting mat, ruler, and rotary cutter for more precise measurements and cutting.
- Hemming tulle can be difficult due to its delicate nature. Hand sewing with tiny folds and stitches is an option, but it is time-consuming. Alternatively, you can leave the edges unhemmed for a modern look.
- When sewing tulle, use a long stitch length (gathering stitch) and fold the fabric in half lengthwise. Sew two rows of gathering stitches, and then pull the bobbin threads to gather the fabric evenly. Pin the tulle layer to your skirt at the desired length before sewing it in place.
- To prevent the thread from pulling out of the seam, switch to a zig-zag stitch instead of a straight stitch. You can also shorten your stitch length.
- Tulle is prone to wrinkling, so use a handheld steamer or hang the dress in a steamy bathroom to remove any creases. Always handle your tulle creation with care to maintain its shape and appearance.
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Adding tulle to a simple dress
Preparing the Tulle:
Before you start sewing, there are a few things to keep in mind when working with tulle. Firstly, tulle does not fray and typically does not need to be hemmed, making it easier to work with. However, if you prefer a finished look, you can cut the tulle to length and leave it unhemmed, or add a simple hem. When cutting the tulle, use pattern weights to keep it from shifting, and always buy more fabric than you think you need. Tulle varies in type, quality, and price, so avoid inexpensive polyester tulle made for crafting, as it may not give you the desired effect.
Sewing the Tulle:
When sewing tulle, use clips instead of pins to hold the fabric in place. Tulle is a lightweight fabric, so use a needle designed for lightweight fabrics (size 80/11 or 80/12) when gathering the tulle. You can create a simple tulle overlay by adding 1-3 layers of tulle on top of a skirt lining. This method is beginner-friendly and adds a beautiful touch to a simple dress. If you want to add volume, consider using multiple layers of tulle or choosing a tulle with larger holes, which will give you maximum volume with less fabric.
Attaching the Tulle to the Dress:
There are a few ways to attach tulle to a simple dress. You can sew the tulle directly to the dress seams by attaching it to the bodice or skirt. Another option is to create a separate tulle skirt that can be worn over the dress. This option is especially useful if you want to be able to remove the tulle or mix and match with other outfits. You can also experiment with layering by creating a capelet to layer over the bodice or using a tulle overlay on only the top or bottom half of the dress.
Remember to use a slightly different color thread in the bobbin when sewing gathering stitches on the tulle to ensure the correct thread is being pulled for gathering. With these tips and your creativity, you can create a beautiful tulle dress perfect for any special occasion!
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Frequently asked questions
Tulle does not fray and does not need to be hemmed. Use clips instead of pins and a needle designed for lightweight fabrics when gathering the tulle.
Tulle varies in type, quality, and price. Avoid inexpensive polyester tulle made specifically for crafting purposes.
Cut out a piece of cardboard that is 6” (15 cm) in width and long enough to fit the tulle fabric folded in half. Take the raw edge of the tulle and square it off using a cutting ruler and rotary cutter to ensure a straight and clean edge.
Place the two tulle skirt pieces with their right sides together and sew the side seams. Sew a gathering stitch around the top edge of the skirt and consider breaking the skirt into sections to make it more manageable.
Gather the skirt to the same width as the bodice and clip it in place. Baste the skirt onto the bodice and flip the dress right side out to inspect the tulle. Adjust as needed until the tulle lays nicely around the entire bodice.
