Crafting A Russian Wedding Band: A Step-By-Step Guide

Russian wedding rings are a beautiful and playful piece of jewellery with three interlocking bands that roll comfortably around your finger. They are traditionally made from three colours of gold – rose, yellow and white – but can also be made from silver. The three colours are said to represent the Holy Trinity and carry religious significance. To make a Russian wedding band, you will need to cut and shape the metal into three separate rings, solder them together and then finish and polish the ring.

Choosing the metal and its colour

Russian wedding rings are traditionally made from three colours of gold—rose, yellow, and white—but can also be made from silver for a less expensive option. The three colours of gold are said to represent the Holy Trinity and carry religious significance.

When choosing the metal and its colour, you can opt for the traditional gold combination or a single silver band. If you are making the ring yourself, you can choose from a range of gold and silver wires, such as D-shaped or round wire. The D-shaped wire is flat on the inside, while the round wire is not. The D-shaped wire is preferred as it allows the rings to slide past each other comfortably when worn and prevents skin from getting caught between the bands.

The colour and type of metal you choose will depend on your personal preference, budget, and the cultural significance you wish to embody in your ring.

Sizing the ring

Sizing a Russian wedding band correctly is crucial to ensure a comfortable fit. The ring typically comprises three interlocking bands, traditionally made from three colours of gold—rose, yellow, and white—but can also be crafted in silver for a more affordable option.

When sizing a Russian wedding band, it is essential to consider the thickness of the wire used, as this will impact the overall size of the ring. The formula for determining the required length of wire for each band in the Russian wedding ring is as follows:

> Internal diameter of the desired ring size + (2 x wire thickness) + (2 x additional wire thickness for each ring passing through).

For example, if you are making a size Q ring with 1.3mm wire, the calculation would be:

15mm (internal diameter of a size Q ring) + (2 x 1.3mm) + (2 x 1.3mm for each of the two additional rings passing through) = 63mm of wire needed for each band.

It is worth noting that some jewellers suggest increasing the ring size by three to five sizes to account for the thickness of the wire and the number of rings passing through each other. However, this method may not always be accurate, especially when using thicker wires or different ring sizing systems. Therefore, it is recommended to use the formula provided to ensure a precise fit.

Additionally, it is worth mentioning that the sizing may also depend on the shape of the wire used. Some jewellers prefer using D-shaped wire as it allows for a more comfortable fit, while others have used round wire with success.

Finally, it is always a good idea to make a test ring out of a cheaper metal to verify the sizing before committing to the final piece, especially when using gold, as resizing a Russian wedding ring would involve dismantling the entire piece.

Preparing the single rings

To prepare the single rings, you will need to cut three pieces of wire to the correct length. The length of each piece of wire will depend on the size of the ring you want to make. For example, if you are making a size Q ring, the inside circumference of the ring is 57.15mm. To account for the thickness of the wire, you need to add twice the thickness of the wire to the inside circumference. So, if you are using 1.3mm wire, you would add 2 x 1.3mm to 57.15mm, which gives you a total length of 59.65mm. However, because you need to make three rings that will interlock, you need to add even more length to account for the space taken up by the other rings. In this case, you would add another 2 x 1.3mm, resulting in a final length of 62.35mm. To be safe, you can round up to 63mm.

Use a jeweller's saw to cut your three pieces of wire to the correct length. Make sure you are supporting the wire on a bench pin and holding the wire across a bench pad to avoid any accidents. Once you have your three pieces of wire, you need to file the ends of the wire so they are nice and square. This will ensure that there are no gaps in the solder joint. Use a flat file and an engineer's square to check that the ends are square.

Now you will shape the wire into a very rough capital "D" shape. Bend the ends of the wire so they meet head-on, forming a straight section. Use your nylon-jaw pliers to bend the wire, being careful not to leave any marks. You want to end up with three rings that are shaped like a "D" and have the ends meeting neatly.

Soldering the rings together

Now that you have prepared the three individual rings, it's time to solder them together to create your Russian wedding band. This process requires careful attention to detail and a steady hand to ensure a strong and seamless final product.

Firstly, position the three rings with the joins at the front, on the flat sections of wire. This will allow you to see the front of the joints as you solder. Apply flux to the joints, as solder will not flow without it. Place a small piece of hard solder on the inside of each joint. You will need more than you think, as some will need to be filed off later. Ensure that the solder is in the correct position and not somewhere you don't want it, as it will be difficult to remove once melted.

Now, it's time to apply heat. Direct the flame along the front of each ring, being careful not to heat the flux too quickly, as this can cause it to bubble up and pop off. Keep an eye on the solder; if it moves, turn off the torch and adjust its position. Once the metal reaches the right temperature, you will see a reddish tinge and a glossy appearance. At this point, brush across the front to ensure the solder flows from the inside to the outside, creating a strong joint.

Repeat this process for each ring, remembering to use a lower melting temperature solder each time. This ensures that the previous solder joints remain intact. Once all the rings are soldered, you can shape and file them to ensure they are the correct size and fit together neatly.

Finally, give your Russian wedding band a thorough clean to remove any excess solder and oxidation. You now have a beautifully crafted, traditional piece of jewellery.

Finishing the ring

Once you've soldered the rings together, you'll need to finish the ring by filing and sanding it. This will ensure that the ring is smooth and comfortable to wear. Use a flat file to gently sweep across the solder joint, being careful not to apply too much pressure. Work your way through the emery paper from the coarsest to the finest grit, spending the most time with the coarsest grit. Repeat this process for all three rings, ensuring they are all the same size and fit together neatly.

After filing and sanding, the rings will need to be tumbled to polish them. This will give the ring a shiny and polished finish. Finally, check the size of the ring to ensure it fits properly. If it is too small, you can stretch the ring slightly by hammering it gently.

Now your Russian wedding band is complete! This traditional design features three interlocking rings, usually made from three different colours of gold. The process of making this ring may be challenging, but the result is a beautiful and playful piece of jewellery.

Frequently asked questions