Creating A Wedding Gown: Pattern-Making Guide

Making a wedding gown pattern is a complex process that requires a good understanding of sewing, pattern drafting, and fitting. The first step is to determine the basic shape of the dress, such as A-line, ball gown, or mermaid, taking into account the bride's body shape and preferences. The next step is to choose a fabric that suits the design and location of the wedding, such as chiffon, satin, or tulle. After taking measurements, a pattern can be drafted or purchased from companies like Vogue, Butterick, or Simplicity. The pattern is then used to cut the fabric, which is pinned and sewn together. Finally, embellishments like lace or beads are added, and any necessary adjustments are made to ensure the perfect fit.

Choosing the right fabric

Weather and Location

The weather and location of your wedding play a crucial role in choosing the right fabric. If you're getting married on a beach or during the summer, opt for lightweight and breathable fabrics such as chiffon, silk, or voile. These fabrics will keep you cool and comfortable while still looking elegant. On the other hand, if you're having a winter wedding or a formal event in a grand cathedral, you might want to go for heavier fabrics like satin, velvet, or brocade, which will add structure and warmth to your gown.

Style and Silhouette

The style and silhouette of your wedding gown should also be considered when choosing a fabric. Some materials are better suited for structured and tailored designs, like brocade, damask, or Mikado silk. These fabrics can create a sleek and sophisticated look. If you prefer a more flowy or ethereal style, go for fabrics like chiffon, tulle, or organza, which are known for their lightweight and airy qualities. Keep in mind that the fabric should complement the shape of your dress and accentuate your body type.

Durability and Maintenance

When selecting a fabric, it's important to consider its durability and maintenance requirements. Some fabrics, like chiffon, organza, and tulle, are delicate and prone to snagging or fraying. If you're looking for something more durable that can withstand the activities of your wedding day, consider satin, silk, or polyester. Additionally, natural fabrics like silk and cotton tend to be more breathable but may require more care as they wrinkle easily. Synthetic alternatives, such as polyester, can be more wrinkle-resistant and less delicate.

Personal Preference and Comfort

Ultimately, your personal preference and comfort should be the deciding factors when choosing a wedding gown fabric. Try on dresses made from different fabrics to get a feel for how they look and drape. Consider the softness, weight, and breathability of the fabric, ensuring that you'll feel comfortable wearing it for extended periods. Remember, you want to feel as good as you look on your special day!

Popular Wedding Gown Fabrics

• Chiffon: Sheer, lightweight, and often layered, perfect for outdoor or warm-weather weddings.
• Satin: Smooth, shiny, and durable, suitable for structured designs like ruched or ballgown styles.
• Silk: Timeless, versatile, and expensive, comes in multiple textures, suitable for all seasons but delicate in hot weather.
• Tulle: Netting made of silk, nylon, or rayon, often used for skirts and veils, adds volume and romance to the gown.
• Organza: Sheer, lightweight, and stiffer than tulle, often used for structured silhouettes and layered looks.
• Lace: Delicate, feminine, and versatile, it can be used as an overlay or incorporated into the dress design.
• Brocade: Stiff fabric with raised designs, perfect for structured gowns and formal fall or winter weddings.

Selecting a pattern

Fabric stores will stock pattern books, or you can order online. Patterns are usually rated by level of difficulty and should include a key/glossary, layout, and step-by-step instructions. When ordering your pattern, you can combine multiple sizes to get the closest match to your measurements. It is a good idea to purchase a few different patterns so you can experiment with the fit and style you prefer.

The pattern can be printed on various materials, such as tissue paper or stiffer white paper. If you opt for tissue paper, it is advisable to make a backup copy in case the original is damaged during use.

Cutting the fabric

Now that you've bought your fabric, it's time to cut it! Lay the pieces of your pattern onto your fabric and use straight pins to pin it down. Make sure you're doing this with the inside of your fabric facing up. Cut along the sides of the pattern, following its shape, to cut out your fabric pieces in the right size for your dress.

If you plan on adding pleats to your dress, be sure to cut extra fabric. You can also cut extra fabric if you want to practice sewing before you start on your wedding dress fabric.

Once all of your fabric pieces have been cut, pin them together (inside out), keeping your pins along the 1.5" of seam allowance from your pattern. If you plan on pleating the skirt, pin it to hold the pleats, and you can sew over the pins.

Sewing the dress

Now that you've cut your fabric, it's time to start sewing your dream wedding dress. Here is a step-by-step guide to sewing your wedding dress:

Add texture to your dress

Fabric is flat, so once your fabric is pinned together, you'll need to fold, bend, and gather it to accommodate the curves of your body. If you plan on pleating the skirt, pin it to hold the pleats and sew over the pins. You can remove the pins later.

Follow the pattern

Sew the seams by following the shape you cut out according to your pattern. Use vertical princess seams. These seams go from top to bottom, and it is impossible to make a one-piece dress without them. The fabric cut should reflect this; if not, you may want to pick another pattern to follow.

Sew all the way to the hem

Even if you have extra fabric at the bottom or sides of your dress, follow the pattern strictly. It was designed in your size, and your dress can be taken in much more easily than taken out once it's been sewn.

Try the dress on

Once you've sewn all your seams, gathers, and darts, try your dress on. Make any adjustments you need to get the perfect fit. Have your friend pin these adjustments for you.

Sew your adjustments

Take the dress off and sew over the pins to make the necessary adjustments to your dress. Now is also the time to add any embellishments. If you have a jewelled belt, lace applique, or any other embellishments, add them to your dress as the finishing touch.

Finish it off

Cut any loose strings, make one more round of adjustments, or sew something blue into the inside of your dress if you're following the tradition. After this, your dress is ready for your big day. Don't forget to follow the care instructions provided with the fabric.

Embellishing the gown

• Do your research: Explore different embellished gowns online and create an inspiration board. Note what you like and don't like about each style and find designs and patterns that will suit your dress.
• Don't overdo it: Avoid adding too many embellishments, as it can create a cluttered look. Choose one or two types of decorations that complement your gown rather than incorporating all types of embellishments.
• Choose the right areas: Embellish along the neckline, hem, sleeves, or change the design of the neckline with an overlay. You can also add a waistband or sash to add a touch of bling to your outfit.
• Consult a professional: Most elaborate embellishments will need to be done by a professional seamstress. Consult your bridal consultant or seamstress for suggestions and be open to their ideas.
• Consider the fabric: When choosing embellishments, take into account the weight of the fabric. Lightweight fabric may not be able to hold the weight of heavy beads or other embellishments.
• Pay attention to the overall look: Consider the effect of embellishments on the dress's fit and overall appearance. Adding too much beading to the bodice, for example, may cause some shrinkage.
• Cost considerations: Embellishments can add to the overall cost of your gown. Sew-on crystals, for instance, can be expensive, so keep your budget in mind when choosing embellishments.
• Pay attention to details: When sewing on appliqués or lace, use matching silk thread for a seamless finish. For a bold look, you can cut away the fabric behind the appliqué to create a see-through effect.
• Removable embellishments: If you're unsure about committing to fixed embellishments, consider removable accessories like a crystal-studded waistband, a removable bolero, or fabric flowers pinned to your dress.
• Match your embellishments: Ensure that your DIY embellishments complement the existing details on your dress. If your dress already has beading or crystals, make sure any new embellishments match the colours and designs present.
• Consider accessories: If you have chosen statement accessories, make sure the embellishments on your dress go well with them. For example, if your veil has a lace trim, add a similar embellishment to your dress for a cohesive look.
• Add a pop of colour: Consider adding colourful accents to your wedding dress. Choose appliqués, trims, beading or embroidery in colours that match your wedding palette for a creative twist.

Frequently asked questions