Deborah Chan
A circle skirt wedding dress is a timeless classic that can be made in any length. The full-circle skirt is a popular choice for wedding dresses, but it requires a lot of fabric and may not flatter a broad waistline. To make a circle skirt wedding dress, you will need to choose the right fabric and cut, make a pattern, calculate the amount of fabric needed, and sew it together. You can add a waistband, an invisible zipper, and a hook-and-eye closure for a professional finish. The process involves several steps, but with patience and attention to detail, you can create a beautiful and unique wedding dress.
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What You'll Learn
Choosing the right fabric
Season and Comfort
Consider the season in which your wedding will take place. If you're having a warm-weather wedding, opt for lightweight and breathable fabrics such as lace, chiffon, tulle, or organza. These fabrics will keep you comfortable and complement an outdoor or informal wedding setting. For colder months, choose heavier fabrics like satin, which provides warmth and elegance with its light shine. Satin is also a traditional choice for wedding dresses and resists creasing and wrinkling.
Style and Silhouette
The fabric you choose will significantly impact the style and silhouette of your dress. If you're aiming for a structured design, select fabrics like satin or organza. On the other hand, if you prefer a flowing and light look, opt for fabrics with a soft drape, such as chiffon or charmeuse, which is known for its shine and ability to work well with draped dresses. For a slim-fit dress, lightweight and soft fabrics like chiffon or charmeuse are excellent choices.
Figure Flattery
Consider your figure when choosing the fullness of your circle skirt. While a full circle skirt is a classic choice, it adds volume and may not flatter a broad waistline. A 3/4 circle skirt can be a better option as it provides a balance between volume and a slimmer silhouette. This cut is particularly flattering for pear-shaped figures as it hides the lower half and emphasizes the upper body.
Fabric Drape and Width
The drape of your fabric will affect the overall look of your skirt. Fabrics with a lot of drape, such as those with a glossy sheen, will stretch on the bias and may result in a "pointy" appearance. If you prefer something in between, habotai, voile, silk twill, noil, or linen are good options. Additionally, consider the width of your fabric when planning your circle skirt pattern. Narrow-width fabrics may be more challenging to work with and require careful layout.
Personal Style
Ultimately, your wedding dress should reflect your personal style and the celebration's formality. With a wide range of fabrics available, from traditional to modern, choose the one that makes you feel like a fairytale princess or a bohemian bride. Don't be afraid to combine different fabrics, typically two or three, with one being the primary material.
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Cutting the skirt
Choosing the Fabric
The first step in cutting the skirt is selecting the right fabric. Fabrics with a good drape, such as cotton, cotton blends, linen, rayon, and stretch fabrics, are ideal for a circle skirt. If you opt for a full circle skirt, wider fabrics are preferable to avoid adding extra seams. Keep in mind that the amount of fabric required will depend on the length and style of the skirt.
Preparing the Fabric
Before cutting, you should fold the fabric. One method is to fold the fabric along the selvage so that the top meets the bottom, creating a square with four layers. Alternatively, you can fold one yard of fabric four times into a rectangle. This will make it easier to cut the skirt pieces.
Now it's time to cut the skirt pieces. For a full-length circle skirt, you may need to divide the skirt into multiple panels. For example, for a very wide bolt of fabric, you may only need three panels, while a narrower bolt may require eight panels for a long skirt.
If you're working with a narrow fabric, consider cutting the skirt on the bias or crossgrain to achieve a seamless look. This involves cutting your fabric diagonally or across the grain, allowing for a continuous circle without seams.
When cutting the skirt pieces, ensure that the grainlines are relaxed. This can be done by hanging the fabric overnight before cutting. Relaxed grainlines will help you achieve a smooth hemline without any puckers or uneven sections.
Creating the Waistband
After cutting the skirt pieces, you'll need to create the waistband. Measure your waist, including ease, and cut the waistband accordingly, adding seam allowance. The height of the waistband is usually twice the desired width plus seam allowance. For example, for a 2.5-inch waistband, the height will be 6 inches with a 0.5-inch seam allowance.
Attaching the Waistband
To attach the waistband, open up the wider side of the bias tape and pin it to the raw waist edge of the skirt fabric. Stitch along the groove, then fold the tape over and pin it in place. Finally, stitch along the edge of the fold to secure the waistband.
Final Thoughts
Remember to consider the wearer's figure when deciding on the style of the circle skirt. While a full circle skirt adds volume and flatters pear-shaped figures, it may not be the best choice for those with broader waistlines. A 3/4 circle skirt is a good alternative, offering a balance between volume and fabric usage.
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Adding a waistband
Cutting the Fabric:
First, cut a piece of fabric that is slightly longer than your waist measurement, with some extra length for seam allowance. The width of the fabric should be about 10 cm, or 5-6 cm if you are using ribbon. If your fabric is lightweight or prone to creasing, you can add fusible interfacing to give it more structure. Cut the interfacing to match the length and width of your fabric waistband.
Preparing the Fabric:
Next, fold the fabric in half lengthwise and press it with an iron to create a sharp crease. If you don't have an iron, you can use your finger to press the fabric. Open the fabric back up and fold the raw edges into the middle, towards the crease. Press the fabric again to create sharp creases along the edges. If you are using ribbon, simply fold it in half lengthwise and then in half widthwise to find the middle.
Attaching the Waistband:
Pin the waistband to the skirt, starting at the opposite end of the zip. Ensure that the raw edges of the waistband and skirt are aligned, and the right side of the waistband is against the wrong side of the fabric. Sew the waistband in place, leaving a small gap on either side of the zip. If you are using ribbon, stitch along the edge of the ribbon, securing it to the raw waistline of the skirt.
Finishing Touches:
For a neat finish, fold the raw edges of the waistband underneath, towards the zip. Sew these edges in place, ensuring they are tucked away neatly. You can also add belt carriers or other design features to your waistband to enhance the look.
Remember to consider the type of fabric you are using and whether your skirt has gathering at the waist, as this may influence your choice of waistband style and attachment method.
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Inserting a zipper
To insert a zipper into a circle skirt wedding dress, you will need to first create an opening in the skirt for the zipper. This can be done by cutting a line or a slit in the fabric, ensuring that it is large enough to accommodate the zipper. The opening will serve as the centre back seam of the skirt, lining up with the bodice centre back seam. It is important to note that the skirt does not need to be cut as one piece, and having separate pieces can make it easier to insert the zipper.
Once the opening is created, you can pin the zipper in place while the dress is on a mannequin or a flat surface. Make sure that the right sides of the fabric are together and the edges of the opening fabric are perfectly even. Use multiple pins inserted perpendicular to the edges of the fabric to secure the zipper in place. This will make it easier to remove the pins while sewing and prevent damage to your sewing machine.
Now, you can start sewing the zipper in place. Position the fabric under the needle and lower the presser foot. Sew about one inch (2.5 cm) down the pinned edge of the fabric. After sewing a few stitches, backstitch by pressing the reverse lever to secure the stitching. Continue sewing until the zipper is attached securely.
After attaching the zipper, you may need to finish the top of the dress by hemming it. Fold over the top edge of the dress so that the raw edges are hidden inside. Secure the fold with pins and then sew a straight stitch along the pinned edges to complete the hem. Finally, remove the pins and cut any excess threads for a neat finish.
It is important to note that inserting an invisible zipper in a wedding dress may require additional techniques and tools, such as using a zipper foot for a more seamless installation. Additionally, some bias-cut skirts may not require a zipper due to the natural stretch of the fabric, allowing the dress to slip over the head without a closure.
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Attaching the bodice
Prepare the Bodice and Skirt:
First, ensure your bodice and skirt are ready for attachment. Measure the width of the bottom of the bodice, and decide on the desired volume of your skirt. A wider skirt panel will result in more gathers and volume, while a narrower skirt panel will give a slimmer look.
Align the Bodice and Skirt:
Lay the bodice flat with the right side facing up. Place the skirt on top, aligning the top edge of the skirt with the bottom edge of the bodice. Ensure the right sides of both pieces are facing each other, so the seam will be on the inside of the dress when finished.
Secure with Pins or Basting:
Match the side seams of the bodice and skirt, and pin them together. If your design includes gathers or pleats, distribute them evenly along the waistline and pin them in place. Basting, or temporary hand stitching, can provide more control and accuracy when working with delicate fabrics or intricate designs.
Sew the Waistline Seam:
With the bodice and skirt secured together, it's time to sew the waistline seam. Follow the waistline of the bodice as your guide, and consider the type of stitch that will work best for your fabric and design.
Attach Lining (Optional):
If your bodice or skirt has a lining, attach it to the waistline seam. Ensure the lining lies flat and does not interfere with the outer fabric. Attaching a lining adds structure, comfort, and a clean finish to the inside of your dress.
Finalize the Hem:
If your skirt requires hemming, do so now. Choose your preferred hemming method, such as a simple folded hem, a blind hem, or a decorative hem. Hemming at this stage ensures a uniform length and a professional, polished look for your wedding dress.
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Frequently asked questions
A circle skirt is a full, flowy skirt that gets its name from the circular shape of the skirt when it is spread out. A full-length circle skirt is a classic choice for wedding dresses, as it adds volume and charm to the outfit.
The best fabrics for a circle skirt wedding dress are those with a good drape, such as cotton, cotton blends, linen, rayon, and stretch fabrics. Wide fabrics are also preferable as they require fewer seams and create a seamless look.
The amount of fabric needed depends on the length and type of circle skirt you want. A full circle skirt requires more fabric than a quarter or half circle skirt. You can use a circle skirt calculator to determine the exact amount of fabric needed based on your waist size, hip measurement, and desired skirt length.
