Rhiannon Hendricks
A corset-back wedding dress is a timeless choice, offering elegance and a customized fit for your wedding day. Adding a corset back to a dress is a great way to make a dress bigger or to alter a dress that doesn't quite fit. This guide will take you through the process of creating a corset back wedding dress insert, covering everything from preparing your dress to lacing up and making final adjustments.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| When to use | When a dress won't zip up at the back |
| Materials | Lace, ribbon, fabric, thread, modesty panel |
| Steps | Remove zipper, sew in corset loops, create tie, lace up |
| Loop spacing | Typically 1-1.5 inches apart, but depends on the length of the back opening |
| Loop number | 14-15 loops for a 14-inch back opening |
| Loop creation | Sew a seam 1/4 inch from the open edge, turn the tube right side out |
| Modesty panel | Sew to the inside of the left edge of the dress opening, overlapping by 1/2 inch |
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What You'll Learn
Removing the zipper
To remove the zipper from a wedding dress, you will need a seam ripper and a pair of scissors. A seam ripper is the best tool for removing the zipper as it allows you to cut the stitches holding the zipper in place without damaging the fabric. Before you begin, note how the zipper is positioned so that you can sew the new corset in the same way.
First, use the seam ripper to cut the stitches holding the zipper in place, pulling gently on the zipper fabric as you go to widen the gap between the zipper and the dress fabric. Once all the threads holding the zipper in place have been cut, remove any remaining loose threads with your fingers. Set the zipper aside.
Now that the zipper has been removed, you can prepare to sew the new corset back. Measure the back opening length and decide how close together you want your loops to be. This will determine how many loops you will need. Typically, they are spaced about 1.5 inches apart, but this may vary depending on the amount of space for the corset back.
If you are unsure about the spacing, it is recommended to create a muslin mock-up of the corset back to test the fit before sewing it directly onto the dress. This will allow you to adjust the spacing and ensure the dress fits well.
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Creating the loops
Firstly, determine the number of loops you need. This will depend on the length of the dress opening and how close together you want the loops to be. As a reference, loops are typically spaced about 1.5 inches apart, but there is some flexibility depending on your preference and the amount of space available. For example, if you have a 12-inch dress opening and want your loops close together, you might choose to space them 1 inch apart.
Next, decide on the material for your loops. You can use extra fabric from hemming the dress, or you might opt for ribbon. If using ribbon, consider the strength and thickness of the ribbon, especially if the loops need to withstand some stress. Satin ribbon, for instance, can be used, but it might not be suitable for lacing up too tightly.
Now, it's time to create the loops. If using fabric, cut strips of your chosen material. The length of these strips will depend on whether they will be enclosed between the main fabric and the bodice lining. For enclosed loops, cut strips long enough to form loops with the desired spacing. For loops that will not be enclosed, cut longer strips to account for the raw edge, which you can finish with wonder tape or serging. Fold these strips in half and pin or clip them in place on the back of the dress.
If using ribbon, create the loops by sewing or pinning them in place. You can follow a similar process to that described for fabric loops. Ensure the ribbon is securely attached to the dress and can withstand the tension of lacing.
Once all the loops are in place, you can start lacing up your corset back wedding dress. Remember to have a trusted helper assist you with the lacing, as it can be challenging to do it alone. Follow a specific pattern, such as left to right and then back to left, inserting the tie into the loops. When you reach the last loop, create a bow or secure knot with the ends, tucking any excess neatly into the gown.
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Sewing the modesty panel
Firstly, determine the width of the modesty panel. It should be wider than the final gap in the gown to ensure proper coverage. A general rule of thumb is to make it 10 inches wider than the gap, so if your gown has a 5-inch gap, your modesty panel should be 15 inches wide. This extra width provides sufficient fabric to cover any potential gap when the corset is laced and tied.
Next, prepare the fabric for the modesty panel. Cut the fabric to the required width and length, leaving a small allowance along the bottom edge for turning it right side out. You can use a spray basting method to adhere the fabric to the gown, or you can sew them together. If sewing, draw your sewing line with a pen or fabric marker, then stitch along the line, leaving a small opening at the bottom.
Once the fabric is attached, trim the panel, turn it right side out, and use a tool like a chopstick to poke out the corners neatly. Press the panel with an iron to smooth out any wrinkles, then stitch the opening closed. You can use a strong polyester thread for this step to ensure a secure finish.
Now, attach the modesty panel to the gown. Pin the left edge of the modesty panel to the inside of the left edge of the dress opening, overlapping it by about half an inch. Stitch along the corset loops to secure the panel in place. Remember, the modesty panel is only sewn to one side. When the corset is laced and tied, the other side will lay across and stay in place.
Finally, create the tie for your corset. Using bias strips, place one strip with the right side up, then place another strip on top with the right side down, ensuring the right sides are together and the strips are perpendicular. Sew from the top right corner to the bottom left corner, trim off any excess fabric, open the seam, and press it with an iron. Join any remaining strips until you have a tie of the desired length.
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Lacing the corset
Lacing a corset back wedding dress is a simple process, but it is almost impossible to do alone, so be sure to enlist a helper. First, put on the dress and ensure that the modesty panel is in place. The modesty panel is a strip of fabric that covers the skin exposed by the lacing and loops. It is sewn into the inside of the left edge of the dress opening, overlapping by half an inch, and lays across to the right side, staying in place once the corset is laced and tied.
The lacing should start at the top left loop. Take the tie and run it across from left to right and then back to the left, inserting it into the third left loop. Continue this process down the dress, left to right to left, until it is completely tied. When you get to the last right loop, create a bow with the ends and tuck them down inside the dress.
Once you've reached the bottom, check the overall fit and adjust the tension to ensure you're comfortable but secure. The goal is to create a supportive fit without restricting movement or breath.
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Final adjustments
Once you've laced up your corset, check the overall fit. Adjust the tension to ensure you're comfortable but secure. The goal is to create a supportive fit without restricting movement or breath.
If you need to, adjust the modesty panel. This should be sewn to the left side of the gown, next to the left loop set. It should be 10 inches wider than the final gap in the gown, so the top of the panel needs to be 15 inches across.
Tie the ends of the ribbon into a firm bow or a secure knot, tucking the excess neatly into the gown if needed.
Finally, check that the wearer can sit down in the dress.
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