George Boyle
If you want to dance the night away at your wedding without guests stepping on your train, you'll need to bustle your wedding dress. This is the process of altering a bridal gown to function as if it had no train. One of the most popular ways to pick up the train is with an American bustle, also known as an over-bustle. This simple style is created by lifting the outside of the train and securing it over the back of the gown to the waistline.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To secure the fabric of the gown's train, giving the bride freedom to move around with ease |
| Types | American bustle, Ballroom bustle, French bustle, Bow bustle, Train-flip bustle, Royal bustle, Victorian bustle |
| American Bustle Characteristics | Hooks scattered throughout the waistline of the dress, enabling the train to be lifted and hooked over the top of the gown |
| Number of Pickup Points | One, three, or five |
| Ideal Dress Types | Lace, chiffon, or flowy dresses, A-line, mermaid, or ball gown |
| Ballroom Bustle Characteristics | Fastening the train beneath the skirt using several attachment points, giving the illusion of a floor-length gown |
| Ideal Dress Types | Satin or crepe dresses, not flowy fabrics |
| French Bustle Characteristics | Hooks pick up the train of the gown as they tuck it under the silhouette itself |
| Ideal Dress Types | Sturdier fabrics like satin, crepe, or lace dresses with a heavier lining, ball gowns, A-line, or fit and flare silhouettes |
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What You'll Learn
The difference between an American and French bustle
A bustle on a wedding dress is the process of altering a bridal gown to function as if it had no train. This is done by fastening the train to the rest of the dress so that a bride can walk freely without tripping over her ensemble throughout the night.
An American bustle, also known as an over-bustle, has several hooks scattered throughout the waistline of a dress that enables the train to be lifted and hooked over the top of the gown. This style can have one, three, or even five bustle pick-up points for an ultra-dramatic look. The fabric folds over instead of under, creating a cascading feel as the fabric folds flow over the rest of the skirt.
A French bustle, on the other hand, is also known as an under-bustle or Victorian bustle. This technique is the reverse of the American bustle, as hooks pick up the train of the gown and tuck it under the silhouette itself. This bustle style favours gowns with a more natural waistline. Often, ribbons are attached to connect and secure the fabric and can have numerous pick-up points for extra flair.
Some people consider the French bustle to be more elegant and bridal, and that it flatters the figure better than the American bustle. However, the American bustle is simple for a seamstress to create and easy to attach on the wedding day.
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How to attach hooks, buttons, ties and ribbons
Hooks, buttons, ties, and ribbons are all used to secure the train of a wedding dress for an American bustle. This bustle is created when the outside of the train is lifted and secured over the back of the gown to the wedding dress's waistline. Brides can choose to have one statement pickup or multiple pickup points for added flair.
Hooks
Hooks and eyes are a popular way to bustle a wedding dress train. You can use the largest hooks available and sew them with upholstery thread. You can also paint a large silver hook with white nail polish if you can't find white ones.
Buttons
When adding buttons to a wedding dress, it is important to use button thread as it is thicker than normal thread. 1/4" or 3/8" buttons are size-appropriate, while 1/2" buttons may look too big.
Ties
To attach a back tie, first, cut two pieces of facing (one in fabric and one in fusible interfacing) for the back opening and two straps of fabric for the ties. Pin the raw edges of your ties to the right side of the back of the garment so that the ends meet at the center mark. Stitch the ties in place 1/4" from the mark.
Ribbons
For a French bustle, the seamstress adds color-coordinated ribbons underneath the gown. The ribbons can be used to attach the train to several points under the dress. This results in the look of an untouched, floor-length gown.
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How to bustle your dress after the ceremony
The American bustle, also known as an over-bustle, is a popular way to lift the train of a wedding dress. Brides usually bustle their dresses after the ceremony and before the reception, although some choose to leave their train flowing for the first dance. The American bustle is created by lifting the outside of the train and securing it over the back of the gown to the waistline. This can be done with one point of connection for lighter dresses with shorter trains, or through multiple points for heavier fabric or longer trains.
To bustle your dress, you will need to attach hooks, buttons, or ribbons that lift up and secure the train. If you don't like the look of exposed buttons or hooks, you can hand-sew lace appliqués on top of them. If you're handy with a needle and thread, you can sew a loop by placing a safety pin halfway up the length of the train, threading the needle, and inserting it into the underside of the dress. Then, make a small stitch, pull the thread through to create a loop, and pull the remaining thread through the loop to create a knot. Once the loops have been added, fasten them to buttons or hooks, and adjust the folds of fabric to create a fuller and more voluminous bustle.
If you prefer the look of a regular or traditional bustle, you can attach a tie to the seam of the underside of the skirt, so it's not visible from the outside. Sew an eye hook to the end of the train, concealing the hook with embroidery or beading, and attach the tie to the eye hook, pulling the tie so that the skirt bunches. You can also attach an eye hook or button on the outside of your dress, high up on the train near your lower back, and attach the lower tie halfway down the back of the skirt. Connect the hook and eye, and straighten out the train, making sure any details on the tail are arranged pleasingly. You can add more sets of hooks and eyes if desired to lift the back of the dress and display any decorative work on the train.
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How to choose the right bustle for your dress
Choosing the right bustle for your wedding dress is an important decision. A bustle is an alteration made to the back of a wedding dress that lifts the train off the ground and secures it to the dress, allowing the bride to move around and dance without tripping over her dress. There are several types of bustles to choose from, each with its own unique look and functionality. Here are some tips to help you select the right bustle for your dress:
Consider the silhouette and fabric of your dress:
The type of bustle you choose should complement the silhouette and construction of your gown. Trust your seamstress to recommend the best type of bustle for your dress. They will take into account the amount of fabric, the length of the train, and the overall design of the gown. For example, the American bustle, also known as an over-bustle, is popular for dresses with fairly long trains as it adds drama to the back by creating a cascading effect. On the other hand, the French bustle, or under-bustle, is better suited for dresses with minimal trains and embellishments near the waist.
Decide on the number of connection points:
The number of connection points will depend on the weight of the fabric and the length of the train. American bustles can have one, three, or even five connection points, with more points creating an ultra-dramatic look. If your dress has intricate details or embroidery on the train, consider a bustle with multiple connection points so that these details remain visible.
Choose the right fasteners:
Bustles can be created using hooks, buttons, ties, loops, or ribbons. Hooks and buttons are commonly used, especially for American bustles, where hooks are scattered throughout the waistline of the dress. Ribbons are typically not used for over bustles as they would be visible. For a seamless look, fasteners should be concealed within the seams and decorated creatively.
Assign a trusted person to help:
Bustling your dress will require assistance, so it's important to assign a trusted person to help you on your wedding day. This person should attend your final dress fittings to learn how to properly bustle your dress. It is also a good idea for them to collect the dress from your seamstress to see how it is done by an expert.
Prepare an emergency kit:
Despite a seamstress's best efforts, there is always a chance that your bustle could break due to the weight of the dress. Prepare an emergency kit with large safety pins, a sewing needle, and clear fishing line or strong thread. This will allow you to quickly fix any issues that may arise with your bustle on your special day.
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The different types of bustle and how to achieve each
Wedding dress bustles are an important feature that allows brides to move around freely and securely. They are especially useful for gowns with long trains, as they prevent guests from stepping on the train and allow the bride to dance and walk without tripping.
American Bustle (Over Bustle)
The American bustle, also known as the over bustle, is a popular style that allows the bride to move freely. It has several hooks scattered throughout the waistline of the dress, enabling the train to be lifted and hooked over the top of the gown. This style can have one to five bustle pickup points, creating a dramatic look. It works well with various silhouettes, including A-line, ball gown, and mermaid, and is especially beautiful with a cathedral train.
French Bustle (Under Bustle or Victorian Bustle)
The French bustle, also known as the under bustle or Victorian bustle, is the opposite of the American bustle. It is suitable for gowns with a natural waistline and minimal train. The hooks pick up the train and tuck it under the silhouette, often with the help of ribbons. This style can also have multiple pickup points for extra flair.
Ballroom Bustle
The ballroom bustle is designed to completely hide the train, giving the illusion of a seamless, floor-length gown. Multiple points are added under the dress for the train to attach to, resulting in an untouched, elegant look.
Royal Bustle
The royal bustle can be simple or elaborate, depending on the desired look. It can have a single pickup point with one hook and eyelet or multiple pickup points for added drama and dimension. This style is perfect for gowns with a statement bow or sash in the back.
Side Sling Bustle
For an asymmetrical look, the side sling bustle, also known as a wrist loop, is a unique option. This style attaches the train to the wrist, allowing the bride to lift it herself. It is a simple and cost-effective solution, especially for lightweight dresses with modest trains.
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