Franklin Dean
Adding a bustle to a wedding dress is a great way to ensure the bride can move around with ease and dance the night away without guests stepping on her train. A bustle is a tailoring technique that lifts the train of a wedding dress off the floor, fastening it securely to the gown's back. Tulle wedding dresses look best with an American bustle, which folds up on top of the gown, as a French bustle can make the train look bulky. The American bustle is also one of the easiest and most basic wedding dress bustle styles. However, it's important to note that the right answer is always whatever gets the fabric out from underneath the bride's feet.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To lift the train of a wedding dress off the floor, fastening it securely to the gown’s back |
| Types | American, French, Ballroom, Austrian, Regular |
| American Bustle | One or more bustle points scattered at the gown's waist or hip line, meant to pull the train up and over the rest of the gown |
| French Bustle | Tucks the train under the dress for a cascading effect |
| Ballroom Bustle | Conceals the length of the train by tucking it under the gown, making it appear as though the dress has no train at all |
| Austrian Bustle | Gathers the train fabric in a way that resembles draping or ruching |
| Regular Bustle | The end of the train is folded up under the back of the dress, creating a bubble hem and a fuller back to the skirt |
| Tulle Wedding Dresses | Look best with an American bustle, as a French bustle can make the train look bulky |
| Lightweight fabrics | Require delicate fastening points |
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What You'll Learn
Choosing the right bustle style
Fabric and Silhouette:
The fabric and silhouette of your wedding dress play a crucial role in choosing the right bustle style. Tulle, being a lightweight fabric, requires delicate fastening points. Consider a bustle style that complements the flow and movement of the fabric. The Austrian bustle, for example, adds a whimsical touch to lightweight fabrics like tulle.
Train Length and Details:
The length and details of your train will also influence your bustle choice. If your tulle dress has a long train, the American bustle (also known as an over-bustle) is a popular option. This style lifts the train over the back of the gown, creating a dramatic effect. However, if you prefer to showcase intricate details near the hemline, consider the French bustle (or under-bustle), which tucks the train under the silhouette of the dress.
Functionality and Comfort:
A bustle should enhance your comfort and mobility, not impede it. Consider your desired level of movement during your wedding celebrations. A bustle that is too tight or constricting can hinder your ability to move and dance freely. The ballroom bustle, for instance, elegantly conceals the length of the train by tucking it under the gown, providing ease of movement and the illusion of a floor-length gown.
Personal Preferences:
Ultimately, choosing the right bustle style depends on your personal preferences and the overall vision for your wedding look. Consider the level of drama and versatility you want to achieve. The American bustle, with its multiple pickup points, offers versatility and the opportunity to showcase a dramatic train. If you prefer a simpler look, a single-point bustle down the center of your gown may be more suitable.
Remember, your seamstress will be your best resource for choosing the ideal bustle option. They can guide you in selecting a style that complements your silhouette, train length, and desired functionality, ensuring that your wedding dress is both elegant and practical.
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Preparing the dress
Firstly, decide on the type of bustle you want. The two main types are the American bustle, which folds up on top of the gown, and the French bustle, which tucks under. The American bustle is generally recommended for tulle dresses as it is simpler and less likely to make the train look bulky. However, you can also consider other options like the Austrian or ballroom bustle, which can elegantly conceal the train's length.
Next, you should determine the placement of the bustle. This will depend on the shape and construction of your dress. Bustles can be placed at the waist, in the middle of the skirt, or at the hem, whichever suits your dress's silhouette and your personal preference.
Now, it's time to choose the fastening method. Hooks, ties, buttons, snaps, or ribbons can be used. For tulle, lightweight fabrics, and delicate fastening points, ribbons are a good option. You can also use multiple ties and colour-code them to make it easier to identify which ties go together.
When you have decided on the type of bustle, placement, and fastening method, it's essential to consult a professional seamstress. They will be able to advise you on the best options for your specific dress and handle the initial bustle setup. During your fitting, ensure you record video tutorials or take detailed photos of the construction techniques. This visual reference will be invaluable for you and your bridal party, who can practice the bustling technique before the big day.
Lastly, assign someone to be in charge of bustling your dress. It is usually a bridesmaid or family member who will attend your final alterations appointment to get hands-on practice. They will be responsible for ensuring your dress is ready for dancing and celebrating at the reception!
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Sewing hooks, ties or buttons
Sewing hooks, ties, or buttons is a common method to bustle a wedding dress. It is a technique that lifts the train of the dress off the floor, fastening it securely to the gown's back. This method is used to prevent tripping hazards and protect the fabric from damage during the reception. It also transforms the look of a dress, giving it a polished and party-ready appearance.
To sew hooks, you can start by attaching an eye hook to the end of the train. Then, tuck the back of the skirt up and under the dress, so you can attach the eye hook to the tie on the underside. Alternatively, for an over bustle, attach the eye hook or button on the outside of the dress near your lower back and attach the lower tie halfway down the back of the skirt. Connect the hook and eye to lift the skirt off the floor. When using multiple ties, consider using different coloured ribbons to easily identify which ties go together.
If you prefer ties, attach one to the underside seam of the skirt so that when your bustle is complete, your skirt hem is just off the floor. You can also run a ribbon through the back seam and pull it through to create a ruched look. This works best with gowns made of simple, unembellished fabric.
Buttons can also be used to bustle a wedding dress. This method is commonly used for dresses with buttons down the back. It is recommended to stick to an American or French-style bustle for this type of dress.
The type of bustle you choose depends on the shape and construction of the gown. It is recommended to consult a professional seamstress to determine the best type of bustle for your dress. They will be able to sew the necessary hooks, ties, or buttons to achieve your desired look.
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$14.59
Practising bustling the dress
Understanding the Basics
Before you begin practising, it's essential to understand the purpose of bustling. Bustling involves altering your wedding dress to lift the train, allowing you to move and dance freely without the fabric getting in your way. There are various types of bustles, including the American bustle (also known as the over bustle) and the French bustle. The choice of bustle depends on the style and construction of your gown, especially if it has multiple layers of tulle.
Practising the American Bustle
The American bustle is a popular choice for tulle wedding dresses. It involves creating one or more bustle points at the waist or hip line of the gown, using hooks or buttons. Practise scattering these points strategically to pull the train up and over the rest of the gown. If your dress has intricate details, place the hooks or buttons discreetly so they remain virtually invisible.
Mastering the French Bustle
The French bustle is another option, but it can make the train look bulky. It involves sewing buttons or hooks underneath the inside of the dress skirt to form "pick-ups" or tiers. Practise connecting these buttons or hooks to create a modern and sleek effect. This style works best with plain skirt fabrics like satin, silk, or crepe.
Safety Measures and Troubleshooting
While practising, remember to have safety pins, a sewing needle, and clear fishing line on hand. These will come in handy if any ribbons or buttons come loose, and a bridesmaid or helper can quickly make repairs. Additionally, consider taking videos of your practice sessions, especially when a seamstress is present, so that you and your bridal party can refer to them on the big day.
Assigning a Designated "Bustler"
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Bustling the dress on the day
The bustling of a wedding dress is usually done between the wedding and the reception, and it should only take a few minutes. The bride can assign someone to help with bustling the dress, usually a bridesmaid or family member. This person should attend the final dress fitting to learn how to bustle the dress. It is also helpful to take videos of the seamstress demonstrating the bustling process, which can be referred to on the day of the wedding.
The American bustle, or "over-bustle", is one of the most popular styles for tulle wedding dresses. It involves creating one or more bustle points at the waist or hip line of the gown, pulling the train up and over the rest of the dress. This style is versatile and can be adapted to suit the shape and fabric of the skirt. For a simpler option, choose a single point down the center of the gown, or for a more dramatic look, try five or seven bustle points to create a draped effect.
Another option is the ballroom bustle, which elegantly tucks the train under the gown, making it appear as though the dress has no train. This style works well for skirts with no hem detail and is suitable for any silhouette. For a unique and whimsical look, the Austrian bustle gathers the train fabric in a way that resembles draping or ruching. This style is suitable for lightweight fabrics and adds a romantic touch to the dress.
For a tulle wedding dress, it is important to choose a bustle style that will not damage the fabric. The weight of the train can put strain on the tulle, so a simple style with fewer bustle points may be preferable. The designated "bustler" should practice the technique before the wedding day to ensure they are confident in their ability to bustle the dress quickly and efficiently.
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