Junior Rasmussen
There are many ways to cut a wedding dress, and it is important to consider the type of fabric, the direction of the pattern, and the desired style. For those who want to cut their wedding dress short for the reception, it is recommended to use dressmaking shears to achieve a clean cut. Additionally, some brides choose to add a hidden zipper, tighten the waist, or alter the neckline to create a more form-fitting silhouette. When cutting an A-line gown, it is crucial to follow the grainline arrow and lay the pattern pieces correctly to ensure the fabric is used efficiently and the print is not upside down. To line a dress, use a thin, lightweight, and stretchy material, such as thin satin, crepe, or Viole, cutting the same pattern as the dress, but slightly smaller.
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What You'll Learn
Cutting the skirt from the bodice
First, decide how much you want to shorten the bodice by. If you are petite, you may want to shorten the bodice by 2 inches to lift where the skirt starts. You can also decide to separate the skirt and bodice entirely, creating a two-piece wedding outfit.
Next, you will need to cut the fabric. If there is a seam, cut along this line, separating the skirt and bodice. If there is no seam, cut along the waistline, through the lace if necessary. You can then use a sash or belt to cover the cut.
If there is boning in the dress, this will also need to be shortened and re-capped, and the bodice will need hemming. Most boning is plastic and can be simply cut shorter. Steel boning can also be cut with special tools.
Finally, you will need to sew the skirt and bodice back together. To do this, you will need to pin the excess fabric into pleats. You can choose to have double pleats at the back and single pleats at the front. Once you are happy with the pinned pleats, hand-baste the pleats in place. You can then use a sewing machine to stitch along the waistline of the skirt and bodice, creating an X at the point of the V rather than pivoting your stitches.
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Preparing the fabric
When preparing the fabric for your wedding dress, there are a few important steps to follow. Firstly, decide on the size bracket that your dress will fall into. Fabric generally comes in two widths: 112cm/44" or 145cm/57". Knowing the width will help you choose the right layplan, which shows you how to lay the pattern pieces on the fabric to minimise wastage.
Next, consider whether you are using plain fabric or patterned fabric. If you are a beginner, it is recommended to use plain fabric and avoid large pattern prints that need to be pattern-matched. If you are using patterned fabric, ensure that all pattern pieces run in the same direction so that the print isn't upside down.
Each piece of your pattern will have a grainline arrow, indicating the direction in which the piece needs to be laid on the fabric. This is a crucial step in ensuring your garment is constructed correctly. Additionally, check if your pattern piece says "cut on fold". If so, you will need to lay it on the fold of the fabric. For a 112cm wide fabric, fold it in half across the width, resulting in a 62cm width. This will make it easier to follow the layplan. Place your folded fabric on a flat surface and smooth it out, ensuring that the folded edge has no ruffles and that each side of the fabric is flush against each other.
Now, you are ready to start pinning your pattern pieces to the fabric and cutting them out. Remember to add seam allowances where necessary and to cut out the front and back patterns. If you are adding a pocket, decide on the desired placement and fold your fabric accordingly before cutting.
Finally, if you are lining your dress, choose a thin, lightweight material that stretches as much as the dress itself. You will need the same amount of fabric as you used for the dress, cut to the same pattern but with 1/8 inch (0.32 cm) less from the edges. You may also want to consider adding an underlining as a backing for the top layer of fabric and one or two layers of lining for extra structure and sophistication.
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Cutting the fabric
Prepare the Fabric
First, decide on the size bracket that your dress falls into, and then check the width of your fabric. This information will help you choose the right layplan. Fabric generally comes in two widths: 112cm/44" or 145cm/57". A layplan shows you how to lay out the pattern pieces on the fabric to minimise waste. Fold your fabric in half across the width, ensuring the fold is neat and smooth with no ruffles. Place it on a flat surface, following the layplan instructions.
Pattern Placement
Each pattern piece will have a grainline arrow, indicating the direction the piece should lay on the fabric. This is crucial for ensuring the fabric is cut accurately. If your pattern piece says "cut on fold", place it on the fold of the fabric. If you are using patterned fabric, ensure all pattern pieces are facing the same direction to avoid an upside-down print.
Now, you can begin cutting the fabric. For a simple A-line gown, follow these steps:
- Add your horizontal measurement.
- Decide on your desired neckline and mark it out.
- From the shoulder slope, come down by 1.5 inches and draw a straight line using the shoulder measurement as a guide.
- To achieve the desired fullness for the gown, divide your hip measurement by 4 and add 3 inches.
- Extend the shoulder measurement by 3 inches.
- From the shoulder line, come down by 7 inches and draw a curved line from the centre front to 3 inches under the chest line.
- Cut the curve line, connecting the front and back of the dress.
Pockets (Optional)
If you want to add pockets, fold your fabric and follow these steps:
- From the centre, go horizontally by 7 inches, then come down by 5 inches.
- Make the pocket length 9 inches.
- From the 5-inch mark, go in by 1 inch and curve the line.
- Stitch along the red dotted line.
- Attach the pocket 10 inches under the armhole.
Remember, practice makes perfect, so take your time and consider seeking advice from experienced tailors or seamstresses if you are unsure.
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Adding a pocket
Adding pockets to a wedding dress can be a great way to ensure you have somewhere to put your phone and other essentials on your big day. Here is a step-by-step guide to help you cut and add pockets to your wedding dress:
Preparing the Dress and Fabric
Start by ironing your fabric and the dress, if necessary. If your dress is made from a different fabric, ensure that the fabric you use for the pockets is of similar weight to the dress. This will ensure that the pockets do not weigh down the dress and ruin its line.
Creating the Pocket Pattern
Fold the fabric in half and place a pocket pattern on it, aligning the fold line with the fold of the fabric. If you don't have a pre-made pattern, you can trace the pocket shape from a garment with pockets that you like. Just remember to add a seam allowance of about 1/2 inch around the pattern. Cut out the pocket shape, leaving the fold line intact. Repeat this process to create a second pocket piece.
Marking the Pocket Placement
Try on your dress and place pins where you want the top of your pockets to be, usually at the hip bone level. Measure from the bottom of the arm opening down to this point and mark this location as the top of your pocket hole. Then, measure and mark 4-5 inches down from the top of the pocket hole, depending on your preference for pocket depth. Ensure that the placements are symmetrical on both sides of the dress.
Sewing the Pockets
Gently tear the stitches in the marked pocket area, being careful not to pull and cause the dress seam to extend. Open the hem completely. Hem each side of both pocket pieces, leaving 1/4 inch of the sides closest to the open side of the pocket unhemmed. Trim any excess fabric at the top of each pocket to reduce bulk. Fit the pocket pieces inside the dress, aligning them with the marked pocket openings. Sew the pockets in place, ensuring that the pocket edge is stitched to the seam allowance at a very small width, approximately 1/4 inch. Finally, sew the garment seam back up, creating the actual pocket opening.
Additional Tips
If your dress does not have a side seam, you may need to create one to add the pocket. Ensure that the dress has enough room, ideally about 2 inches of extra fabric, to accommodate the new seam. Additionally, consider adding a lining to your dress after sewing the pockets. This can be done by creating a conventional lining or attaching the finished edge facings to the lining by overlapping it.
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Hemming and dyeing
Hemming:
Before you start hemming, it is important to determine the desired length of the dress. The bride should have already chosen her wedding shoes, as the height of the heels will affect the length of the dress. It is also crucial to consider the style of the dress and whether any alterations will be made to the bodice, as changes to the top of the dress can impact the hem.
One method of hemming a wedding dress is to use a step and an adjustable skirt hem marker to mark the pins where the skirt barely touches the floor. Alternatively, if you don't have access to a step, you can use the floor as your guide and pin the hem line accordingly.
Another approach is to mark the hem cut line with basting thread and then cut the fabric using a serger without needles. This ensures that the fabric is secured in place before cutting, reducing the risk of making the hem uneven.
If you are concerned about the weight of the fabric affecting the length, you can use thread tacks or tailor tacks to mark the hem. This method involves slipping a few loose stitches in a contrasting colour thread to mark important spots without leaving permanent marks.
Dyeing:
Dyeing a wedding dress can be a great way to transform it for future wear or to hide stubborn stains. Before you begin the dyeing process, it is crucial to determine the direction of your project. Do you want to add a wash of colour to a white dress, create an ombre effect, or dye it a completely new shade? The desired outcome will dictate the type and amount of dye you need.
Next, check the fibre content of the fabric. Natural fibres like silk, linen, cotton, and rayon typically take dye well. Protein fibres such as silk, wool, angora, and cashmere respond best to acid dyes. Synthetic fibres, on the other hand, can be more challenging to dye and may not always take the colour evenly. If your dress has elements made of different fibres, be aware that the dye may not be absorbed evenly, resulting in a unique but unpredictable look.
Once you've determined the fibre content, assemble your materials and lay down a plastic cover to protect your workspace. If your dress isn't white, consider using a colour remover first. Then, refer to your desired shade and follow the specific instructions for that dye. Slowly and continuously stir the wet garment in the dye bath for at least ten minutes to avoid splotching. The duration of the dress in the dye bath will depend on the fabric, but an hour is usually the maximum time recommended.
Always remember to test the dye on a small piece of fabric or a scrap from alterations before committing to the entire dress. This will help you understand how well the fabric takes the dye and allows you to make any necessary adjustments.
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Frequently asked questions
You can cut your wedding dress to make it shorter for your reception, but it is recommended to have a seamstress or someone with steady hands do it. You can draw the lines inside the fabric to just below your knees ahead of time. After cutting, you can get it professionally hemmed and even dyed.
To make an A-line wedding dress more fitted, you can add darts to the bust and back to ensure the dress fits well. You can also add an elastic waistline or a belt to make it more form-fitting.
To change the style of an A-line wedding dress, you may need to deconstruct the dress, cut the skirt away from the bodice, and then reattach the skirt to create a dropped waist. This process can be tricky and expensive, so it is recommended to consult with an experienced seamstress before making any alterations.
