Franklin Dean
Creating a wedding dress skirt is no easy feat. It requires a lot of time, patience, and skill. The process can be tedious and costly, and it is not a project for the faint-hearted. Those who dare to embark on this journey must first decide on the desired silhouette, whether it be a circle skirt or a hip-skimming style. Then, they must source the fabric, keeping in mind that the quantity required is often underestimated, and that white formal fabrics tend to be more expensive than coloured ones. Once the fabric is acquired, it's time to cut and sew, being mindful of the delicate nature of certain fabrics and the importance of pre-washing the material. Finally, the skirt is assembled, layer by layer, with careful hemming and attention to detail, until it is ready for the grand reveal.
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What You'll Learn
Choosing the silhouette
The silhouette of a wedding dress is its most distinctive feature. The right silhouette will complement your body shape and personal style. Here are some of the most popular silhouettes to help you choose the right one for your dream wedding dress:
A-line silhouette
A-line wedding dresses are universally flattering and complement all body types. The dress is fitted until the waist and then flares out gently to create a soft "A" shape. This silhouette is especially suitable for pear-shaped, curvy, petite, or apple-shaped brides as it creates a slimmer waistline while flattering the bust.
Ball gown silhouette
The ball gown silhouette is a classic choice that is both dramatic and timeless. It features a fitted bodice and a very large, full, bell-shaped skirt. This style is perfect for brides who want to cinch their waist and prefer more coverage for their hips and lower tummy area. It is also a good option for tall brides as the volume of the skirt will not shorten their height.
Mermaid silhouette
The mermaid silhouette is a fitted gown that hugs the length of the body until the knees and then flares out dramatically. This style is known to emphasise the waist and hips and is a great choice for those who are apple-shaped or have an hourglass figure. It is a glamorous and elegant option that provides a sultry result.
Fit-and-flare silhouette
The fit-and-flare silhouette is similar to the mermaid style but provides greater freedom of movement. The dress is fitted through the bodice and hips and then flares out gradually towards the hemline. This style is perfect for brides who want to accentuate their curves while remaining comfortable and sexy.
Sheath silhouette
The sheath silhouette is a simple and sleek style that skims gracefully along the body, highlighting the natural shape. It is a straight dress that falls straight to the floor and is usually lighter than full-skirted dresses. This silhouette is perfect for slender, petite, and hourglass frames.
Empire silhouette
The empire silhouette features a fitted bodice with a waistline that sits just below the bust, creating an elongated skirt. This style elongates the body and is a good choice for petite brides or those who want to draw attention to their bust.
These are some of the most popular wedding dress silhouettes to help guide your decision. Ultimately, the right silhouette for you will depend on your personal style and what makes you feel special.
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Selecting the fabric
If you're looking for a lightweight and airy skirt, perfect for spring or summer weddings, tulle is a versatile and romantic option. Tulle is a stiff, transparent netting made from silk or synthetic fibres like nylon, rayon, or polyester. It lends itself well to various styles and embellishments, allowing for intricate ruched details and cascading layers. For a voluminous, fairytale-inspired look, you can create layers of tulle, which is easier to achieve than with other fabrics. Tulle is often used as a lining for wedding gowns, adding fullness to the skirt.
For a similar but softer and even more lightweight option, consider organza, which is traditionally made from woven silk. Organza is perfect for creating a slimmer skirt with a few layers, or you can add more layers for volume and drama without too much weight. It is often used for overlays on skirts, allowing other fabrics to peek through from underneath.
If you're looking for a fabric that will hold its shape, shantung is a medium-weight option that strikes a balance between being lightweight and substantial. It is perfect for brides who want a dress that will maintain its form throughout the day and while dancing.
For a delicate and graceful drape, Georgette is a lightweight fabric with a crinkled texture, perfect for a destination or summer wedding. It is breathable and achieves an effortless elegance in hot weather.
For a timeless and luxurious feel, silk is a popular choice, offering a graceful style and refined sheen. It is soft to the touch and allows you to celebrate in optimal comfort without sacrificing elegance.
These are just a few options to consider when selecting the fabric for your wedding dress skirt, and it's important to remember that your budget will also influence your fabric selection.
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Cutting the fabric
First, ensure you have a suitable workspace. You will need a large, clean space to lay out and cut your fabric. A flat floor or large table are good options. It is also important to have sharp scissors or a fabric cutter and fabric weights or pins to secure the fabric and prevent it from shifting while cutting.
Before cutting, it is recommended to pre-wash your fabric. This is especially important for fabrics that may shrink or change shape after washing, such as silk. After washing, you may need to iron the fabric to remove any wrinkles. If your fabric is already smooth and wrinkle-free, you can skip this step.
Next, lay out your fabric and prepare to cut. If you are using a pattern, lay the pattern pieces on the fabric and pin them down with straight pins. This will ensure that you cut the fabric to the correct size and shape. You can also mark the cutting lines with a fabric pen or chalk. Consider the grain of the fabric and the direction of any patterns or designs when laying out your pattern pieces to ensure they are aligned correctly.
When cutting, be patient and take your time. Start with the outermost layer of your skirt and carefully cut along the marked lines or pattern edges. If you are creating a circle skirt, cut your fabric into wedges, ensuring that the bias and straight edges are not sewn together, as this can cause the skirt to hang unevenly. For a straight skirt, cut along the grain of the fabric to ensure the skirt hangs properly.
Finally, once you have cut all the pieces, it is a good idea to label them to make assembling the skirt easier. Pin the pieces together, following any instructions provided by your pattern. If you are creating a waistband, you may need to fold and iron the fabric before sewing, as described in the previous section.
Remember, cutting fabric is a crucial step in creating a wedding dress skirt. Taking your time and following these steps will help ensure a successful outcome.
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Sewing the skirt
Sewing a wedding dress skirt is a challenging and complicated process that requires skill and experience. It is important to first decide on any simple modifications to the pattern, such as removing sleeves or adjusting the neckline. Then, cut the fabric pieces and pin them together inside out, using a sewing model form to visualize the fit. If you plan on pleating the skirt, pin the pleats and sew over the pins, which can be removed later.
When sewing the skirt, it is crucial to follow the pattern and sew the seams according to the cut-out shape. Vertical princess seams are recommended, running from top to bottom. For the lower layer, it is important to carefully press out any wrinkles from the fabric before cutting the pieces and sewing the side seams. The middle layer may require cutting the fabric into wedges to ensure it hangs correctly.
For a fuller skirt, circle skirt math can be used to determine the measurements for a double circle skirt. It is important to baste the skirt and have the wearer try it on to ensure a good fit. If the skirt is too full, adjustments can be made at the seams. Additionally, consider the type of thread used, as silk thread is not suitable for load-bearing seams.
The final stage of sewing the skirt involves attaching it to the bodice. This step may require hand stitching to attach the skirt to the satin layer of the bodice and any additional lace layers. It is important to carefully follow the pattern and make any necessary adjustments to ensure a comfortable fit.
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Attaching the skirt to the bodice
Preparation:
Before attaching the skirt, ensure that your bodice is almost complete. The shoulder seams and side seams should be sewn, raw edges finished, and any closures, such as buttons or snaps, should be in place. Additionally, notch the bottom of the bodice centre front and back with 1/4" slits to help match the skirt later. Cut out your skirt pieces and similarly notch the centre front and back at the tops.
Attaching the Skirt:
Lay your bodice flat with the right side facing up. Place the skirt on top, aligning the top edge of the skirt with the bottom edge of the bodice, ensuring that the right sides of the fabric are together. This guarantees that the seam will be on the inside of the dress when finished. Secure the bodice and skirt by pinning or basting them along the waistline. Match and pin the side seams of the bodice and skirt together. If you prefer more intricate pleats, you can pin and baste them in place along the waistline.
Sewing the Waistline Seam:
With the bodice and skirt pinned or basted together, it's time to sew the waistline seam. Stitch the bodice to the skirt along the waistline, back tacking at both ends. You can use a sewing machine for this step, ensuring that the bobbin basting stitches help pull up the gathers of the skirt front to match the bodice.
Finishing Touches:
Press the seam towards the bodice and on the inside, bring the lining down over the waist seam, covering the stitching line. Match the side seams as you pin the lining in place. Hand stitch the lining to the skirt using a slip stitch and regular sewing thread. If your skirt requires hemming, do so now, following your preferred method. Finally, give the entire garment a press to ensure a polished look, and your bodice is now securely attached to the skirt!
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Frequently asked questions
A lot! Wedding dresses can use around 38 metres of fabric, with 36 of those going into the skirt.
The type of fabric you choose will determine the style of your skirt. For example, silk charmeuse and silk chiffon are delicate fabrics that look best with minimal style lines, whereas a bias-cut skirt will create a more defined silhouette.
First, decide on the style of your skirt and source a pattern or draft your own. Then, cut your fabric, sew the pieces together, and attach the skirt to the bodice. Finally, add any finishing touches such as lace trim or buttons.
Creating a wedding dress skirt can be challenging due to the cost of materials and the tediousness of the work. To avoid overspending, compare prices for fabrics and accents like beading and sequins. To stay motivated during the tedious tasks, such as hand-sewing, remember that the final product will be something you dreamed up and poured your love into. It's also a good idea to gain sewing experience before tackling a wedding dress, and to decide on any simple modifications you want to make to the pattern in advance.
