Deborah Chan
Organza wedding dresses are beautiful, but they can be tricky to bustle. A bustle is a technique that lifts the train of a wedding dress off the floor, fastening it securely to the gown's back, allowing the wearer to move around with ease. There are two main types of bustles: the under bustle and the over bustle (or American bustle). The under bustle is simpler, with one set of ties, but it may not be suitable for a circle skirt as it may require more than one hook. The over bustle has several hooks scattered throughout the waistline of the dress, enabling the train to be lifted and hooked over the top of the gown. This style can have one, three, or even five bustle pick-up points for a dramatic look. When bustling an organza wedding dress, it's important to consider the amount of fabric, the silhouette of the gown, and how you plan to wear it. While a seamstress typically handles the initial bustle setup, it's helpful to understand the mechanics to choose the right style and ensure proper placement.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | Prevent tripping hazards, Protect the fabric from damage during the reception, Transform the look of a dress, giving it a polished, party-ready appearance |
| Types | American, French, Ballroom/Austrian, Overbustle, Underbustle |
| Considerations | Gown's silhouette, personal preferences, number of bustle points, type of bustle, cost |
| Challenges | Sewing skills, possibility of breaking during the reception, weight of the dress, managing delicate bustle points |
| Preparation | Safety pins, sewing needle, clear fishing line, practice, planning |
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What You'll Learn
Underbustle vs. over bustle
The bustle of a wedding dress is a tailoring technique that lifts the train off the floor, fastening it securely to the gown's back. It allows brides to walk freely without tripping over their dresses and protects the fabric from damage during the reception. There are several types of bustles, each with its own distinct style and functionality. The two most common types of bustles are the underbustle and the over bustle.
Underbustle
Also known as the French bustle, the underbustle is created by folding the train of the dress under itself instead of over. This results in an understated, two-layer hem that creates a design in the back. This type of bustle is perfect for gowns with embellishments near the waist but is less desirable if there are intricate details near the hemline as these will be less visible once the bustle is applied. The French bustle is also a good option for dresses with minimal trains.
Overbustle
The over bustle, also known as the American bustle, is a classic style that is one of the most popular choices among brides. It is created by lifting the outside of the train and securing it over the back of the gown to the waistline. This style can have one, three, or even five bustle pickup points for an ultra-dramatic look. The American bustle is best suited for dresses with fairly long trains. It creates a clean, symmetrical look that pairs beautifully with A-line, ballgown, and mermaid silhouettes.
When choosing between an underbustle and an over bustle, it is important to consider the length of the train, the placement of embellishments, and the desired silhouette. Ultimately, the decision should be based on personal preference and what complements the style of the gown best.
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Seamstress recommendations
Seamstresses typically handle the initial bustle setup, and it is important to consult with them to determine the best method for your dress. They will be your best ally in the bustling process, helping you choose the right style and guiding you through the customisation process.
If you are working with a seamstress, it is important to have open communication about your needs, such as the type of venue or planned activities, so they can recommend the most functional option. For example, if you plan to dance a lot, you will need a bustle that can withstand a lot of movement. Seamstresses can also advise on the number of fastening points needed and the best type of fastening for your dress. For example, an over-bustle or American bustle may require hooks, buttons or ribbons, whereas an under-bustle or French bustle will need ties.
If you are working with a seamstress who is not an expert with wedding dresses, you can recommend that they seek advice from other professionals or learn from online resources. For instance, Leanna Studios in Southwestern Ohio offers a DVD that teaches seamstresses how to create an Austrian bustle.
It is also important to practice bustling the dress before the wedding day and to ensure that whoever will be helping you with the dress on your wedding day is present for a demonstration. This could be a bridesmaid or family member, so it is important to choose a bustling method that they can handle.
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How to avoid ripping
To avoid ripping your organza wedding dress when bustling it, there are a few things to keep in mind. Firstly, it is important to choose the right type of bustle for your dress. A seamstress will be able to advise you on the best option, but it is worth knowing that there are several types of bustles to choose from, including the American, French, Ballroom, and Austrian bustle. Each type has a different effect on the silhouette of your dress, so it is worth considering this when making your decision.
Secondly, when it comes to the actual bustling, it is important to ensure that the train is securely fastened to the gown's back. This can be done using buttons, hooks, ties, or ribbons. If you are using ribbons, it is a good idea to have safety pins, a sewing needle, and a clear fishing line on hand in case any ribbons come loose and need to be reattached.
Additionally, it is important to ensure that the bustle is high enough off the ground to prevent it from being stepped on or ripped during the reception. As mentioned, choosing the right type of bustle and ensuring it is securely fastened will help with this, but it is also worth considering having a trusted individual, such as a bridesmaid or family member, on hand to help with any bustling adjustments throughout the night.
Finally, while it may be tempting to try and bustle the dress yourself, it is always best to enlist the help of a professional seamstress to ensure that it is done correctly and securely. This will reduce the risk of ripping and ensure that you can dance and move around comfortably throughout your reception.
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$14.59
Cost of adding a bustle
The cost of adding a bustle to a wedding dress varies depending on several factors, including the type of gown, the number of layers, the number of bustle points, and the cost of living in your area.
On average, adding a bustle can range from $50 to $250, with some people reporting costs of up to $350-$500 in high-cost areas. The type of bustle and gown can also affect the price. For example, gowns with more train fabric, like ball gowns, will likely cost more because they require multiple attachment points for the train.
Some common types of bustles include the American bustle, Ballroom bustle, Train-Flip bustle, and French bustle. The American bustle features multiple hooks at the waistline to lift the train over the gown, with more hooks creating a dramatic effect. The Ballroom bustle gives the illusion that the train has disappeared by sewing multiple bustle points around the bodice, allowing the fabric to fold into itself. The Train-Flip bustle uses hooks inside the gown to flip the train underneath, completely hiding it from view. The French bustle is ideal for gowns with a natural waistline, such as mermaid or A-line silhouettes, and creates a layered or ruffled look at the bottom.
Additionally, the complexity of the bustle can influence the cost. A simple bustle will generally be cheaper, while a more intricate design with multiple hooking points will be more expensive. It's worth noting that bustles can break, especially with heavy fabric and intense dancing, so it's recommended to have safety pins, a needle and thread, or a clear fishing line on hand for quick repairs during the wedding.
Some brides may also opt for a second, shorter dress to change into for the reception to avoid the need for bustling. This option may be more costly but can provide a stylish alternative without the hassle of dress alterations.
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Ballroom bustle
The ballroom bustle is a great option for brides who want to preserve the original look of their dress, while still enjoying the benefits of a bustle. It is particularly well-suited for structured gowns with heavy fabrics, and can complement different dress designs. This bustle style is also suitable for both indoor and outdoor weddings, as it provides a seamless transition from ceremony to reception.
When deciding on a bustle style, it is important to consider the silhouette of your dress, as well as your venue and planned activities. For example, a ballroom bustle pairs beautifully with structured ballgowns, while an American or French bustle might be more suitable for other dress styles. It is also worth noting that certain dress features, such as buttons down the back, can make executing certain bustle styles more difficult.
Ultimately, the choice of bustle style depends on your personal preferences and the specific characteristics of your gown. Consulting with bridal shop consultants and seamstresses can help guide you toward the best choice for your dream wedding dress.
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Frequently asked questions
A bustle is a tailoring technique that lifts the train of a wedding dress off the floor, fastening it securely to the gown’s back. This prevents tripping hazards and protects the fabric from damage during the reception.
There are several types of bustles, including the American bustle, French bustle, and Ballroom bustle. The American bustle, or over bustle, has hooks at the waistline to enable the train to be lifted and hooked over the top of the gown. The French bustle tucks the train under the dress for a cascading effect. The Ballroom bustle, or Austrian bustle, creates unique silhouettes that complement different dress designs.
A seamstress will be able to recommend the best type of bustle for the silhouette of your gown, the amount of fabric, and how you plan to wear your dress. You can also consider whether you want a bustle that transforms the silhouette of your dress or one that gives the illusion that it was a floor-length gown all along.
