George Boyle
A wedding dress train is a gorgeous addition to a wedding gown, but it can be cumbersome when it comes to spirited activities like dancing. This is where bustling comes in. A bustle is a way to secure the train of a wedding dress, so it is off the floor and the bride can move about freely. There are several different types of bustles, from the American to the French, and they can be achieved using buttons, hooks, ties, or ribbons. While it is usually the seamstress's job to recommend the best type of bustle, it is possible to do it yourself, saving some money in the process.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To secure the train of a wedding dress off the ground and out of the way, allowing the bride freedom of movement |
| Who does it | Seamstress, maid of honour, bridal party, wedding coordinator, or a designated bridesmaid or family member |
| When to do it | Before the first dance at the wedding reception |
| Types of bustles | American, Ballroom, French, Royal, Bow, 1-point overbustle |
| How to do it | Sew buttons, hooks, ties, or loops to the back of the dress; attach the train to the buttons, hooks, or loops |
| Cost | A bustle is usually not included in the cost of the wedding dress and is done as an alteration |
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What You'll Learn
The importance of bustling your wedding dress
A long train on a wedding dress can be a gorgeous feature, but it may restrict your movement and put a damper on activities such as dancing. This is where bustling comes in. By lifting the train and attaching it to the back of the gown with buttons, hooks, loops, or ribbons, you can move around with ease while still showcasing the beauty of your dress.
There are several types of bustles to choose from, including the American bustle, French bustle, and one-point overbustle. The American bustle is well-suited for ball gowns or dresses with cathedral-length trains, as it gathers the train and fastens it over the skirt. The French bustle, on the other hand, tucks the train underneath the skirt, creating a billowing effect and adding fullness to the back of the gown. The one-point overbustle is a simple and cheap option, where a loop is sewn to the back of the dress, and a button is placed above it, lifting the train off the floor.
Bustling your wedding dress is not only functional but can also help you achieve a desired look. For example, the French bustle creates dramatic folds down the back of the dress, adding a touch of elegance to your ensemble. Additionally, bustling can help create a uniform hemline, ensuring your dress falls gracefully and accentuating its beauty.
Overall, bustling your wedding dress is essential to ensure comfort and ease of movement on your big day. It allows you to fully enjoy your wedding reception without the worry of tripping over your train or feeling restricted in your movements. By choosing the right type of bustle for your gown, you can dance, walk, and socialize with guests effortlessly, creating unforgettable memories.
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Different types of bustles
A wedding dress bustle is an alteration that lifts the train off the ground and secures it to the back of the dress, allowing the bride to move around more comfortably. There are several types of bustles to choose from, and the right one will depend on the silhouette of the gown, the amount of fabric, and personal preference. Here are some of the most common types of bustles:
American Bustle (Over Bustle)
The American bustle, also known as an over bustle, is one of the most common and straightforward options. It involves lifting the train and securing it with buttons or hooks placed on the outside of the dress, creating a cascading effect. This style can have one, three, or even five bustle pick-up points for a dramatic look. It works well with various silhouettes, including A-line, ball gowns, and mermaid dresses, and is especially beautiful with a cathedral train.
French Bustle (Under Bustle)
The French bustle is the opposite of the American bustle. Instead of folding on the outside of the dress, it tucks the train underneath, creating a beautiful layered effect. It is perfect for dresses with shorter trains and heavier fabrics and is often secured by ribbons and loops. The French bustle is better suited for gowns with embellishments near the waist, as details near the hemline will be less visible once the bustle is applied.
Ballroom Bustle (Train-Flip Bustle)
The ballroom bustle is a popular choice as it does not alter the silhouette of the dress. The train is tucked under the dress and secured at several points, creating a floor-length version of the gown that is easy to move around in. This style can make the train visually disappear, giving the playful look of a shorter hemline. It is often the most expensive option due to the number of secure points needed.
Austrian Bustle
The Austrian bustle is inspired by Austrian theatre curtains and uses a drawstring to pull up any excess fabric. It tends to be more expensive due to the intricate design, and it is best suited for gowns with delicate or intricate details along the skirt and train.
Royal Bustle
The royal bustle is an elaborate, vintage-inspired look that gathers the train and affixes it to the dress at several points, creating dramatic folds that add instant visual interest. It pairs well with A-line and ball gown silhouettes.
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How to attach buttons or hooks
Wedding dress trains can be bustled using buttons, hooks, ties, or clips. This process involves lifting the train and attaching it to the back of the gown to give the bride more freedom of movement. This process is usually done by a seamstress during alterations after the gown is purchased. However, it can be done at home with some sewing know-how.
To attach buttons to a wedding dress train, you will need to first put the wedding dress on the bride-to-be or a dress form that is the same height. Next, find the middle back of the waist of the dress and mark the spot with a straight pin. Pinch a small spot of fabric about halfway down the train and lift it up to the straight pin, adjusting the train so that the hem falls as desired. Sew a button and loop closure at this point, or use a pre-made button and loop fastening such as a ribbon or thread crochet loop.
Hooks can be used in a similar way to buttons to create a bustle. Hooks can be sewn directly onto the fabric or hidden under a lace motif. If the dress has no "extras" to hide the hook under, you can paint a hook with white nail polish and use a thread loop to attach it to the dress.
For a traditional bustle, loops or hooks are added along the waistline and the train is fastened at multiple points to create elegant pleats at the waist. This style can be used for any dress silhouette and completely hides the train without changing the look of the dress.
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How to make button loops
Creating button loops for a wedding dress can be a challenging but rewarding task. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to make button loops:
Cutting the Fabric:
First, select a lightweight fabric such as cotton voile or silk. Cut bias fabric strips diagonally at a 45-degree angle to give the loops stretch for easy buttoning. Cut the strips 1 3/4 inches wide and at least 4 inches long. If making multiple loops, consider cutting one long strip that can be cut into the desired lengths later.
Sewing the Fabric Strips:
Fold the bias strips right sides together lengthwise and pin them in place. Sew the strips with a 1/4-inch seam allowance down the long side of the tube. If using cotton quilting fabric, trim the seam allowance to 1/8 of an inch; lighter fabrics may not require trimming.
Turning the Tubes:
There are several methods to turn the tubes inside out:
- Using a Loop Turner: Insert the hook of the loop turner into the tube, hook the fabric, and pull it back through the tube, keeping the hook closed to maintain a grip on the fabric.
- Using String or Wool: Before sewing the seam, attach a piece of string or wool at one end, ensuring it is longer than the fabric. After sewing, trim the excess fabric and pull the string to turn the tube right side out.
Attaching the Loops:
Place the loops with the looped edge facing inwards on the right side of the fabric opening. Secure the loops by pinning or tacking a small stitch. Baste and place the prepared facing on top of the loops, right side down. Stitch at the correct width to secure the loops, then remove any pins or temporary stitching. Press open and fold under the facing, exposing the loops at the edge.
Spacing the Loops:
When creating multiple button loops, spacing is crucial. Use graph paper to draw lines with a ruler, allowing for a seam allowance. Draw upside-down U shapes evenly spaced and sized according to your buttons. Tape the ends of the loops to the paper, trim along the seam allowance, and line it up with the garment edge. Sandwich the loops between a facing and sew through all layers to finish.
Creating button loops for a wedding dress train requires precision and patience, but the result is a tailored and elegant finish.
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How to attach the train to the bustle
A bustle is an important part of any wedding dress with a train. It helps secure the fabric of the train, giving the bride freedom of movement and preventing the train from getting soiled. There are several ways to attach a train to a bustle, with the most common being buttons, loops, ties, and hooks. Here are some detailed instructions on how to attach a train to a bustle:
American Bustle (Over Bustle)
The American bustle, also known as the over bustle, is one of the simplest types of bustles. It involves attaching the midpoint of the train to a button or hook on the upper part of the back of the skirt. This can be done with a single point of connection or multiple points, depending on the weight and length of the fabric. The train is hooked over the back of the dress, creating a simple, symmetrical, and draped look.
French Bustle (Under Bustle)
The French bustle, also known as the under bustle, is the opposite of the American bustle. Instead of folding the train over the skirt, it is folded under itself, creating an understated two-layer hem. This type of bustle usually involves adding colour-coordinated ribbons or numbers under the gown to attach the train to.
Using Ties and Hooks
Another method of attaching the train to the bustle is by using ties and hooks. Attach a tie to the seam of the underside of the skirt so that it is not visible from the outside. Then, sew an eye hook to the end of the train, concealing it with embroidery or beading. Pull on the tie to bunch the skirt, and fasten the hook and eye together. Make sure the underside of the skirt is completely off the floor, and adjust the train as needed.
Sewing a Loop
Place a safety pin halfway up the length of the train to mark where the loop will go. Thread a needle and insert it into the underside of the dress, pulling the thread through. Make a small stitch and pull the thread most of the way through to create a loop. Grab the loop and pull the remaining thread through to create a knot. Once the loops have been added, fasten them to buttons or hooks to secure the train.
It is recommended to consult a skilled seamstress or alterations expert to ensure the bustle is properly attached and tailored to the bride and her dress.
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Frequently asked questions
A wedding dress bustle is a way to secure the train of a wedding dress off the ground and into the back of the dress, allowing the bride freedom of movement. This is usually done by the maid of honour, bridal party or wedding coordinator before the couple's first dance.
First, put the wedding dress on the bride or a dress form that is the same height as her. Next, find the middle back of the waist of the dress and mark the spot with a straight pin. Pinch a small spot of fabric about halfway down the train, lift it up to the straight pin, and adjust the train so that the hem falls the way you want it to. Mark this location with a straight pin as well. Sew a covered button where the straight pin is on the waist of the dress. Sew one loop of matching ribbon about 1 inch in length in the spot where the straight pin is on the train. Put the dress on the bride and attach the loop of ribbon to the button on the dress.
The American bustle, also known as an over-bustle, is a popular way to pick up the train. It is done by lifting the outside of the train and securing it over the back of the gown to the waistline. The French bustle has buttons sewn underneath on the inside of the dress skirt, forming "pick-ups" or tiers to the skirt. This gives a modern and sleek effect.
