Junior Rasmussen
A wedding dress bustle is a technique that lifts and secures the train of a wedding dress off the floor, allowing the wearer to move freely and preventing tripping hazards. It is achieved by fastening the train to the rest of the dress using buttons, hooks, ribbons, or loops. There are several types of bustles, including the American, French, ballroom, Austrian, and wrist bustle, each with its own unique style and functionality. The choice of bustle depends on the shape and construction of the gown, with considerations such as the length of the train and the desired look. The process of bustling a wedding dress can be tricky, and it is often recommended to have a designated person, such as the maid of honour or a bridesmaid, to help with the bustling on the wedding day.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To secure the fabric of the gown's train and allow the bride to move around with ease |
| Types | American, French, Ballroom/Austrian, Overbustle, Underbustle, Wrist bustle |
| When to bustle | Between the wedding and reception, or after the first dance |
| Who bustles | Maid of Honour, a bridesmaid, mother or mother-in-law |
| How to bustle | Using buttons, hooks, ribbons, loops or ties |
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What You'll Learn
Choosing the right bustle style for your gown
Choosing the right bustle for your wedding gown is an important decision. A bustle is an alteration made to the back of a wedding dress to lift the train off the ground and secure it to the dress, allowing the bride to move around freely. The right bustle style will depend on the look you want to achieve, the style of your gown, the weight of the fabric, and the amount of activity the dress needs to accommodate. Here are some popular bustle styles to consider:
- American Bustle (Over-Bustle): This style is created by lifting the outside of the train and securing it over the back of the gown at the waistline. It is a simple and versatile option that adds drama to the back of the gown. It can be achieved with one or multiple bustle points, creating different effects.
- French Bustle (Under-Bustle): The French bustle is the opposite of the American bustle, with the train being pulled up and tucked under the silhouette of the gown. It is often secured with ribbons at each bustle point, creating a seamless and elegant look. This style is particularly suitable for gowns with embellishments near the waist.
- Ballroom Bustle: The ballroom bustle gives the illusion that the gown was always floor-length, with the train folding into itself delicately. It is a more expensive option due to the multiple bustle points that need to be sewn in.
- Austrian Bustle: The Austrian bustle is less well-known but creates a beautiful shape. It involves running a ribbon through a back seam and pulling it to create a ruched effect.
When choosing a bustle style, it is important to consider the silhouette of your gown and how the bustle will affect its overall appearance. Consult with your seamstress to determine the best bustle style for your gown, and consider bringing someone to your final fitting to learn how to properly bustle your dress on your wedding day.
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How to bustle a wedding dress with a long train
A bustle is a tailoring technique that lifts the train of a wedding dress off the floor, fastening it securely to the gown’s back. This allows brides to walk freely without tripping over their dresses. There are several types of bustles, each with its own distinct style and functionality. Before adding a bustle to your wedding dress, it is important to decide on the style that works best for your dress. This decision can be made with the help of a seamstress who is familiar with wedding dresses.
The main two types of bustle are the American and the French. The American bustle, also known as an over bustle, is created by folding up the train on top of the gown and hooking it over the back of the dress. This style is known for its simplicity and versatility. The French bustle, also known as an underbustle, tucks the train underneath the dress for a cascading effect. This bustle is better suited for gowns with a more natural waistline.
Other types of bustles include the ballroom bustle, Austrian bustle, and train-flip bustle. The ballroom bustle gives the illusion of no bustle at all, with the train of the dress flipped under the fabric and pinned into itself. This creates the look of a floor-length gown with a full bottom. The Austrian bustle gathers the train fabric in a way that resembles draping or ruching and is well-suited for lightweight fabrics. The train-flip bustle, also known as the flip-over bustle, is a simple and modern approach.
To add a bustle to your wedding dress, you can sew a loop by placing a safety pin halfway up the length of the train and threading a needle. Once the loops have been added, the train can be bustled by fastening the loops to buttons or hooks. If you are not handy with a needle and thread, a seamstress can also be enlisted to help with the initial bustle setup.
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How to sew a bustle on yourself
Sewing a bustle on a wedding dress by yourself is a challenging task that requires basic sewing knowledge and comfort in working with fancy fabrics. It is also important to note that a bustle can cost between $75 to $400, and that is on top of any other bridal alterations needed for the actual fit of the dress. Each individual button, hook, loop, and ribbon is sewn in by hand, so the more there are, the more time and energy are required.
Firstly, decide on the type of bustle you want. There are several types of bustles, including the American bustle, French bustle, ballroom bustle, Austrian bustle, and wrist bustle. The type of bustle you choose will depend on your gown's silhouette and your personal preferences. For example, if you want a bustle that gives the effect of no bustle at all, you can choose a ballroom bustle. If you prefer a cascading effect, you can opt for a French bustle.
Next, gather your materials. You will need a wedding or formal dress, a dress form or mannequin, a measuring tape, grosgrain ribbon, a sheet of felt, sharp straight pins, a thin needle, and white polyester thread. It is important to use clean or gloved hands when touching your wedding dress and to maintain a very clean workspace.
Then, start pinning and sewing. Use the measuring tape to determine the desired length of your bustle and mark the fabric with straight pins. Cut your ribbons to the desired length and seal the ends with clear nail polish, glue, or by heat-sealing them over a flame. Sew the ribbons onto the felt squares tightly and then sew the ribbons onto the dress at the marked points.
Finally, attach the buttons or hooks. Sew these onto the waistline of the dress where you made the pin marks. Make sure to stitch securely to prevent the bustle from coming undone. You can also add additional reinforcement by attaching a small piece of interfacing under each button or hook. Once the loops have been added, fasten them to the buttons or hooks, and adjust the folds of fabric to create a fuller and more voluminous bustle.
It is important to note that bustling your own wedding dress can be challenging, and it is recommended to consult with a professional seamstress to achieve a flawless result and to determine the best type of bustle for your gown.
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$14.59
Mistakes to avoid when bustling your wedding dress
Do not forget to assign someone to help you with bustling your dress on your wedding day. It is nearly impossible to secure a bustle while wearing a bridal gown, so enlist the support of a trusted person to help you with this task. Usually, this person is the maid of honour or another member of the bridal party. It is also important that they attend your final fitting and learn how to alter your ensemble directly from your seamstress.
Do not forget to practice bustling your dress before the wedding day. Confusion or difficulties with bustling can lead to unwanted delays in your wedding schedule. It is important for your helper to be familiar with the process so that it doesn't take longer than a couple of minutes.
Do not forget to prepare an emergency kit with safety pins, a sewing needle, and a clear fishing line. Wedding dresses can be very heavy, and you're relying on a few delicate bustle points to hold the whole operation in place while dancing, walking, and mingling. If your wedding dress is bustled with ribbons and one of them comes loose, for example, a bridesmaid should be prepared to sew the ribbon back into the dress with a clear fishing line.
Do not forget to select a reputable seamstress or tailor familiar with wedding dresses to ensure the bustle complements the style and fabric of your gown. A professionally executed bustle is created to fit your body and the natural fall of the wedding dress, so it shouldn't be any more constricting than the silhouette's own design.
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How to bustle different types of dresses
Bustling a wedding dress refers to the process of altering a bridal gown to function as if it had no train. This is done by fastening the train to the rest of the dress so that the bride can walk freely without tripping over her dress. Wedding dresses with bustles can help secure the fabric of the gown's train, giving the bride freedom of movement.
There are several types of bustles, and nearly all full-length gowns have hooks, ties, or buttons sewn into the wedding dress train to create a uniform hemline after the ceremony. The type of bustle chosen depends on the shape and construction of the gown. The right answer is always whatever gets the fabric out from underneath the bride's feet.
- American: This is a traditional style where the fabric folds over instead of under, with loops or hooks added along the waistline. When the train is fastened across multiple points, it creates elegant pleats at the waist.
- French (or Victorian): This style favours gowns with a more natural waistline. Hooks pick up the train of the gown as they tuck it under the silhouette itself. Ribbons are often attached to connect and secure the fabric and can have multiple pickup points.
- Ballroom: This style gives the illusion of no bustle at all. The train of the dress flips under the fabric and is pinned into itself, giving the illusion of a floor-length gown with a fuller bottom.
- Regular: The end of the train is folded up under the back of the dress, creating the look of a bubble hem and a fuller back to the skirt.
- Over: This is a simple type of bustle created by attaching the midpoint of the train to a button on the upper part of the back of the skirt. This can be done with one point of connection for lighter dresses or multiple points for heavier fabric or longer trains.
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Frequently asked questions
A bustle is a tailoring technique that lifts the train of a wedding dress off the floor, fastening it securely to the gown’s back. This allows the bride to walk and dance freely without tripping over her dress.
The main two types of bustle are the American, which folds up on top of the gown, and the French or Victorian, which tucks under. Other types of bustles include the ballroom bustle, Austrian bustle, and wrist bustle.
To bustle a wedding dress, you can sew buttons, hooks, loops, or ties onto the underside of the skirt. You can also add ribbons to connect and secure the fabric. It is important to have someone help you with bustling your dress, such as your maid of honor or another member of the bridal party.
