Franklin Dean
A wedding dress bustle is a way to alter a bridal gown so that it functions as if it had no train. This is done by fastening the train to the rest of the dress, allowing the bride to walk and dance freely without tripping over her dress. Bustles are usually sewn into the wedding dress with buttons, loops, ties, hooks, or ribbons, and there are several different types of bustles to consider, such as the American, French, and Austrian bustle. The process of bustling a wedding dress may sound straightforward, but it can be challenging, especially since there are several styles to choose from.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To secure the train or any extra fabric of a wedding dress to the back of the dress so that the bride can move around with ease |
| Who does it? | Seamstress or a trusted individual like a bridesmaid or family member |
| Types | American, French, Austrian, Wrist, Over, Under, Royal |
| Fasteners | Buttons, hooks, ties, ribbons, loops |
| When to bustle | After the ceremony and photos, right before the reception begins |
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What You'll Learn
The difference between an over bustle and an under bustle
The process of bustling a wedding dress involves altering a bridal gown to function as if it had no train. This is done by fastening the train to the rest of the dress so that the bride can walk freely without tripping over her dress. There are several ways to do this, including the over bustle and the under bustle.
The over bustle, also known as the American bustle, is a straightforward style of lifting the train directly over itself and hooking it onto bustle attachments below the waistline of a gown. This is likely the most recognizable style to most people.
The under bustle, also known as the French bustle, is the opposite of the American style. It has the train fold under itself instead of over. This technique is derived from the French fashionistas of the 19th century who crafted their voluminous skirts by gathering fabric beneath the top layer of a garment. In contemporary wedding designs, French bustle styles most commonly pin the train under itself, therefore taking it off the floor. This type of bustle creates an understated, two-layer hem that creates a design in the back.
Both types of bustles can be executed by sewing buttons or hooks onto the back of the dress to help achieve the desired look. The seamstress will determine the best type of bustle for the silhouette of the gown, the amount of fabric, and how the bride plans to wear the dress.
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How to attach buttons, hooks, ties, ribbons, or loops
There are several ways to attach buttons, hooks, ties, ribbons, or loops to a wedding dress for bustling. The method you choose will depend on the type of bustle you want to create. Here is a step-by-step guide for each:
Buttons:
- Sew buttons onto the back of your dress at the points where the fabric will be lifted and secured. These points are typically three to five evenly spaced points along the waistline or directly below.
- Make sure to stitch securely to prevent the bustle from coming undone.
- If the buttons need reinforcement, attach a small piece of interfacing under each one.
Hooks:
- Sew hooks onto the back of your dress at the desired points.
- Hooks are typically used for American bustles, or over-bustles, where the train is lifted and secured at the waistline.
- For a royal bustle, you can use one hook and eyelet to lift the train, or multiple pickup points can be added for more detail.
Ties:
- Identify the pick-up points on the inside of the gown's skirt.
- Attach ties inside the gown at these points so they can be tied together, pulling the train up and under.
- This method is used for a French bustle, or under-bustle, which creates a pouf effect and adds volume to the gown's back.
Ribbons:
- Attach ribbons to the gown at the points where the fabric will be lifted and secured.
- Ribbons are commonly used for an American bustle, but can also be used for a French bustle.
- For a French bustle, the ribbons are attached inside the gown, pulling the train up and under.
Loops:
- Sew loops onto the dress, either by creating your own loops with thread or using pre-made loops.
- Attach buttons or hooks to the loops to secure the bustle.
- Loops can be used for any type of bustle, depending on personal preference and the desired look.
Remember to practice bustling your dress before the wedding day to ensure a smooth and stress-free experience.
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The pros and cons of an American bustle
The American bustle, also known as an overbustle, is a popular way to lift the train of a wedding dress. This style is achieved by lifting the outside of the train and securing it over the back of the gown at the waistline. This creates a cascading effect with the fabric folds, adding drama to the back of the dress.
Pros of an American Bustle
- It is a simple style for a seamstress to create and easy to attach on the wedding day.
- Brides have the flexibility to choose between one statement pickup or multiple pickup points for extra flair.
- The American bustle is versatile and can be adjusted to different lengths.
- It allows the bride to move freely without worrying about guests stepping on the train.
- It prevents the train from dragging on the ground during the reception or other parts of the wedding day.
Cons of an American Bustle
- It is not as strong as some other types of bustles, such as the French bustle, and may break over the course of the evening.
- The exposed buttons or hooks may be considered unsightly. However, this can be mitigated by hand-sewing lace appliqués on top of them.
- It may not be suitable for gowns with a more natural waistline, as it lifts the train and attaches it to the outside of the gown.
- It requires the help of another person to attach, which can be a trusted individual such as a bridesmaid or family member.
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The pros and cons of a French bustle
A French bustle, also known as an under-bustle, is a stunning option for a wedding dress bustle. It is created by folding the train under itself, resulting in an understated two-layer hem that adds a subtle touch of drama and movement to the back of the dress. This style is perfect for those who want to showcase the beauty of a simple dress or create a unique look with a more intricate gown.
Pros:
- A French bustle provides a seamless way to secure the train of your wedding dress, ensuring it doesn't drag on the ground and interfere with your movements during the wedding festivities.
- It offers an understated yet elegant solution to managing the extra fabric of your train, creating a streamlined and polished look.
- The bustle's two-layer hem adds a subtle touch of drama and movement to the back of your dress, enhancing the overall aesthetic appeal.
- This style is versatile and can complement both simple and intricate gowns, adding a unique design element to the back.
Cons:
- The French bustle may not be as secure as other types of bustles, such as the American bustle, and there is a chance it could come undone or break during the wedding.
- The volume of fabric in the French bustle can make it appear lumpy or bulky, especially with certain types of fabric or gown structures. It may not hang or flow as gracefully as other bustle styles.
- Creating a French bustle can be more complicated than other styles, requiring the expertise of a skilled seamstress to ensure it is visually clean, structurally sound, and secure.
Ultimately, the decision to choose a French bustle depends on the specific style of your wedding dress, your desired level of drama and movement, and the level of complexity you are comfortable with. It is essential to consult with a professional seamstress who can guide you in selecting the most suitable bustle style for your dream wedding dress.
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How to bustle different dress silhouettes
When it comes to bustling different dress silhouettes, the key is to match the bustle to the gown's style and your personal preference. The right bustle will not only complement the dress's silhouette but also provide functionality, allowing the bride to move and dance freely. Here are some tips on how to bustle different dress silhouettes:
A-Line and Ball Gown Silhouettes
The American bustle is a popular choice for A-line and ballgown silhouettes. This style involves lifting the train and fastening it to the outside of the dress using buttons or hooks, creating a clean and symmetrical look. It is especially practical for outdoor weddings, as it keeps the train off the ground.
Sheath Dress Silhouettes
The American bustle also pairs well with sheath dress silhouettes. The sheath dress is form-fitting and follows the body's natural line without flaring out. The American bustle accentuates the linear design of the sheath dress, creating a cascading effect down the back that adds depth and interest without distracting from the clean lines.
Mermaid and Trumpet Style Dresses
The French bustle, also known as the under-bustle, is a sophisticated choice for mermaid and trumpet-style dresses. It tucks the train underneath, creating a romantic, vintage-inspired touch. This bustle enhances the dramatic silhouette of these dresses, adding a unique point of interest.
Structured Ballgowns
The ballroom bustle, characterised by multiple bustling points, is ideal for structured ballgowns. It allows the bride to have a lengthy train during the ceremony but creates the illusion of a train-less gown for the reception, offering a transformed silhouette for the celebratory vibe.
Gowns with Statement Bows or Sash
The royal or Victorian bustle is perfect for gowns with a statement bow or sash at the back. This style folds the fabric above the gown and secures it with ties hidden under the bow, allowing the fabric to lift symmetrically from the visual point of the bow.
High-Low and Mini Gowns
For less traditional silhouettes like high-low and mini gowns, a dress bustle may not be necessary. These styles already offer unique asymmetrical looks and can provide more freedom of movement, especially for less formal settings.
Remember, when in doubt, consult with bridal experts and seamstresses to guide you in choosing the most functional and flattering bustle for your dress silhouette and venue.
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Frequently asked questions
A bustle on a wedding dress is an alteration that lifts and secures the train, allowing the gown to function as though it doesn't have one. This makes it easier for the wearer to move around and dance without tripping over the train.
There are several types of bustles, including the American bustle, French bustle, Austrian bustle, and wrist bustle. The American bustle, also known as the "over-bustle", is the most common and involves lifting the train and hooking it over the back of the dress. The French bustle, or "under-bustle", tucks the train underneath the dress. The Austrian bustle creates a beautiful shape, while the wrist bustle adds a loop to the underside of the train so it can be carried at the side.
The type of bustle that will work best depends on the style of your dress. It's important to consult with a seamstress who is experienced with wedding dresses to determine the most suitable option. They will consider factors such as the silhouette of the gown, the amount of fabric, and your personal preferences.
First, you need to sew buttons, hooks, or loops onto the back of the dress at the waistline or hip line. Then, you lift the train and fasten it to the buttons, hooks, or loops, creating a fuller and more voluminous look. It's recommended to have a designated person, such as a bridesmaid, to help with bustling the dress on your wedding day.
