Junior Rasmussen
A wedding dress bustle is an important feature for any bride who wants to move freely and comfortably on their big day. A bustle allows you to lift and secure the train of your dress, preventing it from dragging on the floor and getting in the way as you walk, dance, and socialise. While bustling a wedding dress may sound straightforward, it can be challenging, especially for heavy dresses. This guide will introduce you to the different types of bustles, provide tips on preparing for your dress fittings, and offer step-by-step instructions for creating a simple bustle. By the end, you'll know how to elegantly manage your train and enjoy your special day without any fabric-related fumbles.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose of bustling a wedding dress | To secure the fabric of the gown's train, giving the bride freedom to move around with ease |
| When to bustle a wedding dress | After the ceremony and before the reception |
| Who bustles the wedding dress | The maid of honour, bridesmaid, parent, close friend, or a professional seamstress |
| Types of bustles | American, French, Ballroom, Train-flip, Overbustle, Underbustle, Royal |
| Fastening tools | Buttons, loops, ties, hooks, ribbons |
| Tips | Prepare an emergency bag with a sewing needle, clear fishing line, and large safety pins in case the bustle breaks |
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What You'll Learn
Choose the right style for your dress
Choosing the right style of bustle for your wedding dress is essential for ensuring your gown stays pristine and practical for the reception. A bustle is a fastener or a set of fasteners attached to your gown to secure the fabric of your gown's train, giving you the freedom to move around with ease. It is created to fit your body and the natural fall of the wedding dress, so it shouldn't be any more constricting than the silhouette's own design.
The style you choose determines how the train will be tied up to make the front and the back of the gown close to the same length. They can be created using buttons, hooks, loops, and more. While it's often thought of as a strictly functional element, a bustle has the potential to add serious style to a bridal dress.
The two main types of bustle are the American, which folds up on top of the gown, and the French, which tucks under. Which one you choose, and where you choose to place it (like at the waist, in the middle of the skirt, or at the hem) depends on the shape and construction of the gown. The right answer is always whatever gets the fabric out from underneath the bride's feet.
The American bustle is known for its simplicity and versatility. The French bustle, also known as a Victorian or underbustle, favours gowns that have a more natural waistline. This technique is the reverse of the American bustle, as hooks pick up the train of the gown as they tuck it under the silhouette itself. Often, ribbons are attached to connect and secure the fabric and can have multiple pickup points for extra flair.
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Prepare an emergency kit
Preparing an emergency kit is a great idea for your wedding day, especially if you have a heavy wedding dress. Here are some essential items to include in your kit to ensure you can bustle your dress with ease:
Sewing needle and thread
Having a sewing needle and thread in your kit is a must. It is recommended to use a doubled-up thread for extra strength when sewing loops or buttons onto your dress. Clear fishing line can also be a good alternative to traditional thread, as it is strong and discreet.
Safety pins
Safety pins are a crucial item in your emergency kit. They can be used to secure loops, buttons, or hooks, and can even be used to create a makeshift bustle in case of any last-minute emergencies. It is recommended to stock up on safety pins in various sizes, especially larger ones, to ensure they can withstand the weight of your dress.
Extra loops, buttons, and hooks
It is always a good idea to have some extra loops, buttons, and hooks in your kit. These are the most common fasteners for bustles and can easily break or come loose during your wedding. Make sure to have sturdy, high-quality fasteners that can bear the weight of your train. If using buttons, opt for ones that can be securely sewn to the dress.
Wrist loop
Consider adding a wrist loop to your emergency kit. A wrist loop can be attached to the underside of your train, allowing you to carry it elegantly at your side. While it may not be suitable for all dresses, it is a good option to have as a backup, especially if you want to free up your hands during greetings and photos.
Practice fabric
Lastly, it is beneficial to have some extra fabric that matches your dress. This can be used for practicing bustling before the wedding and as a backup in case any last-minute adjustments or repairs are needed.
Remember to consult with your seamstress or a professional tailor for guidance on bustling and choosing the right fasteners for your dress. They can advise on the number and placement of fasteners to ensure your heavy wedding dress is securely bustled.
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Use buttons, hooks, or ribbons
Buttons, hooks, and ribbons are commonly used to bustle a wedding dress. This process involves lifting the back of the dress off the ground to prevent it from getting soiled and allowing the bride to move around comfortably. Wedding dresses do not usually come with a pre-made bustle, but you can sew one on yourself if you're handy with a needle and thread. Here are some detailed instructions on how to use buttons, hooks, or ribbons to bustle a heavy wedding dress:
Buttons:
To add a 1-point overbustle to a heavy wedding gown, sew a loop to the back of the dress and a button above it. Use a strong thread to secure the loop halfway up the length of the dress. Sew the button about a foot above the bride's knees, stitching it securely several times to bear the weight of the heavy fabric. You can then hook the loop over the button to lift the train off the floor. This method is simple and cost-effective but may not be suitable for very heavy dresses.
Hooks:
Hooks can be used to create a French bustle, which is ideal for gowns with a natural waistline. This style involves using hooks to pick up the train and tuck it under the silhouette of the dress. Start by measuring the center back seam of the train from the waist to the floor. Mark the midpoint with a pin. Lift the center back seam to meet the waistline at the base of the bodice. Sew an eye hook to the end of the train, concealing it with embroidery or beading. Attach a sturdy tie to the underside of the skirt, ensuring it's long enough to reach the hook. This method allows for a voluminous bustle without hiding the train's design.
Ribbons:
Ribbons are commonly used in conjunction with hooks for a French bustle. After measuring and pinning the waistline seam, attach ribbons to the corresponding loops by inserting the ribbon into the loop and tying a double bow. This method adds volume to the bustle and secures the fabric. Like hooks, ribbons can be used to create multiple pick-up points for extra flair without concealing the train's decoration.
General Tips:
- Practice bustling the dress before the wedding day to ensure you've allowed enough time between the ceremony and reception.
- Delegate the task of bustling the dress to a trusted individual, such as a bridesmaid or family member.
- Consider using an elastic cuff or waist strap to manage the train if it's too heavy for hooks and eyes.
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Ask for help from a seamstress
Asking for help from a seamstress is a great way to ensure your wedding dress bustle is done correctly and securely. Here are some tips to guide you through the process:
Consult a Professional Seamstress
It is essential to select a reputable seamstress or tailor who is familiar with wedding dresses and has experience with different bustle styles. They will be able to advise you on the best bustle type for your dress, taking into account the gown's design, fabric, and your personal preferences. Consult with your bridal salon or dressmaker for recommendations based on what has worked well with your dress style in the past.
Choose the Right Bustle Type
There are several types of bustles to choose from, including the American, French, Ballroom, Royal, and Bow. The right bustle will depend on the silhouette of your dress, the fabric, the length of the train, and your personal style choices. For example, the American bustle, also known as the over-bustle, involves lifting the train and securing it at the waistline, creating an elegant fold. On the other hand, the French bustle, or under-bustle, tucks the train under the fabric, adding volume to the gown's back, making it ideal for full, layered dresses. Heavier wedding dresses may require a stronger bustle, such as the French bustle, while lighter fabrics can opt for simpler methods.
Attend Fittings and Practice
During your wedding dress alteration appointments, the seamstress will help you determine the best bustle style and walk you through the process. It is important to attend fittings and practice bustling the dress before the wedding day. This will allow you to familiarize yourself with the steps and make any necessary adjustments. Ask your seamstress to demonstrate the bustling process to your maid of honour, a bridesmaid, or a close friend who will be designated as your "bustler" on the big day. They should also be present for these practices to learn the technique and ensure a smooth process on your wedding day.
Prepare a Reference Guide
Consider creating a reference guide or taking notes and videos during the fittings. Having a visual walk-through can be incredibly helpful for you and your designated "bustler" to refer to on the wedding day. It ensures that everyone involved understands the bustle style and how to achieve it.
Prepare an Emergency Kit
Lastly, don't forget to include large safety pins in your wedding day emergency kit. These can come in handy if you need extra bustle support or if any last-minute adjustments are needed.
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Practise bustling before the wedding day
Practising bustling your wedding dress before the big day is essential to ensure your gown stays pristine and practical for the reception. Here are some tips to help you master the art of bustling:
Choose the Right Style
Before you begin practising, it's crucial to select the appropriate bustling style for your dress. Consult with your seamstress to explore styles that suit your gown. Heavier fabrics may require more support, so consider sturdy buttons, loops, ties, or hooks that can withstand the weight of your train. If you're handy with a needle and thread, you can even sew a loop or buttons yourself.
Practise with Your Support Person
Designate a trusted person, such as your maid of honour or a bridesmaid, to be in charge of bustling your dress. They should attend your final dress fitting to learn how to bustle the dress and practise doing it. This will ensure that they are familiar with the process and can help you gracefully on your wedding day.
Prepare an Emergency Kit
Despite your best efforts, bustles can break. Prepare an emergency kit with a sewing needle, clear fishing line, and large safety pins. This will allow you to quickly fix any issues that may arise with your bustle during the wedding.
Master the Mechanics
Understanding the mechanics of bustling will help you choose the right style and ensure proper placement. Learn how to lift and secure your dress train using the chosen bustling method. Practise walking and moving around with the bustled dress to ensure comfort and ease of movement.
Consider the Wrist Loop Option
If you're concerned about the weight of your train, consider asking your seamstress about a wrist bustle. This involves adding a loop to the underside of your train, allowing you to carry it from your wrist. While it may not be suitable for all dresses, it can be a convenient option for heavy trains.
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