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Adding a bustle to a wedding dress is a great way to ensure you can move freely and dance without worrying about guests stepping on your train. There are several different types of bustles to choose from, including the American, Ballroom, French, Royal, and Bow. Each bustle varies in popularity, complexity, and functionality, and your bridal stylist or seamstress can help you decide which is best for your dress. You can also bustle your own gown, saving you money on your wedding.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Types of Bustles | American, Ballroom, French, Royal, Bow |
| American Bustle | Also known as an over-bustle, the outside of the train is lifted and secured over the back of the gown to the waistline |
| Ballroom Bustle | One of the most flattering silhouettes as it completely hides the train without changing the look of the dress |
| French Bustle | Also known as the under-bustle, the train folds under itself instead of over |
| Sewing a Loop | Place a safety pin halfway up the length of the train. Thread the needle by doubling up the thread and inserting it into the needle. Insert the needle into the underside of the dress, pull the thread through, and make a small stitch. Grab the loop and pull the remaining thread through to create a knot |
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What You'll Learn
Choosing the right bustle type for your dress
The right bustle for your wedding dress will depend on the style of your gown, the weight of the fabric, and how much activity the bustle needs to accommodate. The bustle should also align with the look you want to achieve. Here are some of the most common bustle types to help you choose the right one for your dress:
American/Over Bustle
The American bustle, also known as the over bustle, is one of the most popular bustle types. It works with a variety of dress styles, from classic sheaths to voluminous ball gowns. This style has hooks or loops scattered along the waistline of the dress, allowing the train to be lifted and hooked over the top of the gown. This can be done at one point for a simple look or multiple points for a more dramatic, layered effect.
French/Under Bustle
The French bustle, also known as the under bustle, is a subtle yet sophisticated option that gives a vintage feel. It is recommended for mermaid, sheath, and A-line gowns. This style tucks the train of the dress under the skirt itself, creating a small billow in the back. The train folds under itself, attaching to the underside of the gown from the upper thigh to below the knee.
Ballroom Bustle
The ballroom bustle is a versatile option that can be adapted to most dress silhouettes. It completely hides the train, giving the illusion of a seamless, floor-length gown. Multiple bustle points are sewn around the bodice, allowing the fabric to fold into itself delicately. This style can make it appear as if the dress never had a train, providing a playful look.
Austrian Bustle
The Austrian bustle is a unique and intricate style that is growing in popularity. It creates a gathered or ruched effect across the back of the gown, adding a whimsical, romantic touch. This is achieved by pulling up the train with a drawstring or a system of loops or ties, usually on the inside of the dress.
Royal Bustle
The royal bustle, also known as the Victorian or Cathedral bustle, is an elaborate style that works best with very full ball gowns and long, dramatic trains. The train is gathered and attached at multiple points down the back of the dress, creating striking folds and adding instant visual interest.
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Sewing a loop to the back of the dress
To begin sewing a loop, place a safety pin halfway up the length of the train. This marks where the loop will go. Thread your needle by doubling up the thread and inserting it, then tie a knot to secure it. Insert the needle into the underside of the dress and pull the thread through. Make a small stitch and pull the thread most of the way through to create a loop. Grab the loop and pull the remaining thread through to create a knot.
Once the loop is sewn, the train can be bustled by fastening the loop to a button or hook. If you are using hooks, you can hand-sew lace appliqués on top of them to conceal them. You can also adjust the folds of fabric on the train to create a fuller and more voluminous bustle.
If you are unsure about sewing the loop yourself, you can bring your maid of honor or a friend to meet with a seamstress who can instruct them on how to bustle your dress.
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Fastening the loops to buttons or hooks
Firstly, identify the placement of the loops and buttons or hooks. The loops are typically sewn onto the back of the dress, halfway up the length of the train. The buttons or hooks, on the other hand, are usually located along the waistline of the dress.
Once you have located the loops and buttons or hooks, it's time to fasten them together. Start by lifting the train of the dress and bringing it towards the waistline. Carefully insert each loop over the corresponding button or hook, ensuring that they are securely fastened.
Depending on the style of the dress and personal preference, you can adjust the folds of fabric on the train to create a fuller and more voluminous bustle. Play around with the fabric to achieve the desired look and ensure that the train is securely attached.
If you prefer a neater appearance, consider concealing the buttons or hooks. You can hand-sew lace appliqués over them to create a seamless look. This is especially useful if you want to hide exposed fasteners that may detract from the overall aesthetic of the dress.
It is worth noting that different types of bustles exist, such as the American bustle (also known as an over-bustle) and the French bustle (or under-bustle). The choice between these styles will influence how you fasten the loops to buttons or hooks. Consult with a professional seamstress or bridal stylist to determine the best type of bustle for your specific dress.
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Adjusting the fabric for a fuller look
Ballgowns are known for their long, flowing skirts, which require a large amount of fabric. If you are looking to adjust the fabric of a ballgown wedding dress for a fuller look, there are a few things to consider. Firstly, it is important to understand that the amount of fabric required for a ballgown can vary depending on the style and desired fullness of the skirt. To achieve a fuller look, you may need to purchase additional fabric, especially if you plan to add an extravagant train to the dress.
When adjusting the fabric for a fuller look, it is crucial to work with a skilled seamstress or tailor who has experience in altering ballgowns. They will be able to assess the existing fabric and determine the best approach to achieve the desired fullness. In some cases, they may suggest narrowing the fabric at the waist while retaining ample room at the hips, ensuring a comfortable fit.
Another technique to create a fuller look is to gather the fabric at the waistline. By gathering the fabric, small ruffles or pleats are created, adding volume to the skirt. This technique can be carefully executed without altering the overall appearance of the dress. However, it is important to consider the type of fabric used, as gathering may not be suitable for all materials.
Additionally, if there is excessive fabric, a small portion can be cut off from the sides before gathering it to the bodice waist measurement. This technique ensures that the fullness is distributed evenly and avoids any unwanted bulkiness at the waistline. The gathering lines will be concealed in the seam allowance, maintaining a smooth and elegant finish.
Remember, when working with a ballgown, it is always advisable to have a professional handle the alterations. Ballgowns can be intricate, and altering the fabric for a fuller look requires precision and expertise to ensure the dress hangs and moves gracefully.
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Concealing the bustle with lace appliqués
Wedding dresses do not usually come with a pre-made bustle, but adding one can be a great way to cut costs. A bustle allows the bride to move around more freely, without worrying about guests stepping on the train. It also prevents the back of the dress from getting soiled and reduces the risk of tripping.
If you don't like the look of exposed buttons or hooks, you can conceal them with lace appliqués. First, sew loops onto the back of the dress using a needle and thread. Position a safety pin halfway up the length of the train to mark where the loop will go. Then, thread the needle, insert it into the underside of the dress, and pull the thread through to create a knot. Once the loops have been added, fasten them to the buttons or hooks and adjust the folds of fabric to create a fuller, more voluminous bustle.
To conceal the buttons or hooks, sew lace appliqués on top of them by hand. You can also use embroidery or beading to hide the eye hooks. If you're not confident in your sewing abilities, you can bring your Maid of Honor or a member of the bridal party to meet with a seamstress who can instruct them on how to bustle your dress.
When deciding on the type of bustle, consider the weight and length of your train. An over bustle, for example, is a simple option for lighter dresses with shorter trains, while multiple points of attachment may be needed for heavier fabric or longer trains. Ultimately, the choice of bustle should complement the look of your dress and personal preference.
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