Franklin Dean
A wedding dress bustle is a way to alter a wedding dress to lift the train, allowing the gown to function as though it doesn't have one. This is usually done after the ceremony, to allow the bride to move around and dance freely at the reception. There are several ways to bustle a wedding dress, including the American bustle, which folds up on top of the gown, and the French bustle, which tucks under. Brides can also opt for a detachable train, cape, overskirt, or a second look to avoid bustling their dress. To bustle a bubble hem wedding dress, one can follow a similar process to bustling any other wedding dress, taking into account the unique features of a bubble hem dress.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose of bustling a wedding dress | To lift the train and allow the bride to move around and dance |
| When to bustle the dress | After the ceremony and photos, before the reception |
| Who can do it | Seamstress or the bride herself |
| Types of bustles | American, French, Ballroom, Train-flip, Standard |
| Steps to bustle a wedding dress | Attach a tie to the underside seam of the skirt, sew an eye hook to the end of the train, tuck the back of the skirt under the dress and attach the eye hook to the tie |
| Tips | Bridesmaids can learn to bustle the dress at the fitting, videos of the seamstress bustling the dress can be recorded for reference |
| Alternatives to bustling | Detachable train, cape, overskirt, jumpsuit, pantsuit, midi or mini dress |
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What You'll Learn
The standard bustle
A wedding dress bustle is a way to secure the train, or any extra fabric, off the ground and into the back of the dress to keep it from dragging across the floor. This allows the bride to move around with ease and dance without tripping over her dress. The standard bustle, also known as an American or over bustle, involves pulling the train up and securing it over the skirt, usually near the waistline. This creates a cascading effect and gives the appearance of a bubble hem.
To create a standard bustle, you will need to attach a tie or button on the underside seam of the skirt. The tie should be positioned so that when the bustle is completed, the skirt hem will be just off the floor. You can hide it from view by sewing it into the seam of the skirt. Next, sew an eye hook to the end of the train. This should be concealed as well as possible, and it needs to be sturdy enough to hold up the train of your dress. Then, tuck the back of the skirt up and under the dress, and attach the eye hook to the tie on the underside. This will create the bubble hem effect.
Alternatively, you can create an over bustle by attaching an eye hook or button on the outside of the dress near your lower back and attaching the lower tie halfway down the back of the skirt. Connect the hook and eye to draw the skirt off the floor.
It is important to note that wedding dress bustles can be expensive and may break during the reception, especially if the dress is heavy. Therefore, it is a good idea to have safety pins, a sewing needle, and a clear fishing line on hand for repairs. Additionally, it is recommended to have someone designated to help with bustling the dress, such as a bridesmaid or family member, who can attend the final alterations appointment to learn how to do it.
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The American bustle
To create an American bustle, you can attach an eye hook or button on the outside of the dress near the lower back, and attach the lower tie about halfway down the back of the skirt. Then, connect the hook and eye to draw the skirt off the floor.
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The French bustle
To create a French bustle, you will need to attach a tie to the underside seam of your skirt. This tie should be positioned so that when the bustle is complete, your skirt hem will just be off the floor. You can hide it from view by sewing it into the seam of the skirt. Next, sew an eye hook to the end of the train. This will be used to attach the train to the tie, so make sure it is sturdy and well-concealed. With the help of an assistant, tuck the back of the skirt up and under your dress, and secure the eye hook to the tie. This will create a bubble hem and make the skirt look fuller.
Ribbons can also be used to create a French bustle, adding a touch of flair to your gown. Color-coordinated ribbons are attached underneath the gown to create multiple pick-up points for the train. This option may be more secure for heavier dresses, as it distributes the weight across several points.
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The ballroom bustle
To create this style, multiple bustle points are sewn around the bodice, allowing the fabric to delicately fold into itself. This technique is also known as an under-bustle, as the train folds under itself instead of over, creating an understated two-layer hem. Seamstresses may add colour-coordinated ribbons or numbers underneath the gown for a discreet finish.
While the ballroom bustle may be more expensive due to the increased number of bustle points, it is a stunning choice for brides seeking a discreet and graceful way to transform their wedding gown.
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Sewing your own bustle
Prepare the Materials
Firstly, gather your materials. You will need a needle and thread, safety pins, and a button or eye hook. If you are creating a French or under-bustle, you may also need ribbons to connect and secure the fabric. It is important to choose an eye hook or button that is sturdy enough to hold up the train of your dress, especially if it is heavy. Consider using decorative elements that match your dress, such as eye hooks that look like lace or beading.
Measure and Mark the Dress
Before you begin sewing, you need to measure and mark the placement of the bustle on your dress. Place a safety pin halfway up the length of the train to mark where the loop will go. Then, place another safety pin about a foot above the bride's knees to indicate where the button will be attached. If you are creating an over-bustle, you may attach an eye hook or button on the outside of the dress near the lower back, with the lower tie halfway down the skirt.
Sew the Button or Eye Hook
Thread your needle with doubled-up thread and knot the end to secure it. Sew the button or eye hook onto the dress at the marked spots. For the button, thread the needle through the underside of the dress. If using an eye hook, sew it to the end of the train, ensuring it is well-concealed.
Attach the Tie
Attach a tie to the underside seam of the skirt so that when the bustle is complete, the skirt hem will be just off the floor. You can hide the tie from view by sewing it into the seam of the skirt.
Create the Bustle
Now, you can create the bustle by tucking the back of the skirt up and under the dress. Attach the eye hook or button to the tie on the underside of the skirt. This will create a bubble hem and make the skirt look fuller. For a French bustle, you can also use ribbons to connect and secure the fabric, creating multiple pick-up points for added flair.
Creating your own bustle requires patience and practice, but it can be a rewarding experience that ensures your wedding dress fits you perfectly. Remember to consider the type of bustle that best suits the shape and construction of your dress.
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Frequently asked questions
A bustle on a wedding gown is a way to alter the gown to lift the train, allowing the bride to move and dance freely.
Typically, the wedding dress is bustled after the ceremony and photos, right before the reception begins.
Two popular types of bustles are the American and French bustles. The American bustle folds up on top of the gown, while the French bustle, also known as an under bustle, tucks the train underneath.
The type of bustle you choose depends on the style and construction of your dress. A seamstress can help you determine which bustle will work best with your gown during your alteration appointment.
One simple way to bustle a bubble hem wedding dress is to use a tie and an eye hook. Attach a tie to the underside seam of the skirt, then sew an eye hook to the end of the train. Tuck the back of the skirt under the dress and attach the eye hook to the tie. This will create a bubble hem effect.
