Altering And Hemming: A Guide To Bridesmaid Dress Success

Bridesmaid dresses are often designed with a standard length and size to accommodate a range of body shapes and heights, which means they frequently require alterations to achieve a perfect fit. The most common adjustments are hemming, taking in sides, and shortening straps. This guide will teach you how to alter a bridesmaid dress, with a focus on hemming, to ensure it fits like a glove and you feel confident on the big day.

Hemming a bridesmaid dress with multiple layers

Measure and Mark:

Start by trying on the dress to determine how much length you need to remove. Use a fabric pen to mark the desired cutting line on the innermost layer of the dress. Make sure to consider the type of fabric and choose a pen with ink that will disappear within the appropriate timeframe.

Cut the Innermost Layer:

Use a ruler and a rotary blade to carefully cut along the marked line on the innermost layer. This will serve as the new hem length for the rest of the layers.

Cut the Outer Layers:

Lay the outer layers of the dress over the newly cut innermost layer. Cut the outer layers, following the same steps as before. Make sure to cut the outer layers slightly longer (about 3 inches) than the innermost layer to create a smooth transition between the layers. Repeat this process for all the outer layers, ensuring that the front and back portions are cut to the same length.

Sew the Edges:

To prevent fraying, you need to sew the newly cut edges. Start by double-folding the edges of each layer, both the innermost and outer layers. Use straight pins to secure the folds in place. Then, use a zig-zag stitch to sew along the folded edges. Clear nylon thread can be a good option if you're in a hurry and can't find matching thread.

Final Touches:

Once all the layers are hemmed, give the dress a final inspection. Check that the hems are even and that the dress hangs smoothly. If needed, you can make minor adjustments to ensure a flawless finish.

Taking in the bust, waist or hips

Taking in the bust, waist, or hips is a common alteration for bridesmaid dresses. This adjustment can be made by a tailor or seamstress to ensure the dress fits your body perfectly. Here's a step-by-step guide on what to expect:

Measurements:

First, you'll need to take measurements of your bust, waist, and hips. It's helpful to have someone assist you to ensure accuracy. Then, compare these measurements to those of the dress.

Calculate How Much to Take In:

Subtract your body measurements from the dress measurements to determine how many inches to take in at the bust, waist, and hips. Divide each number by two to get the amount you'll take in on each side of the dress.

Mark the Amount to Be Taken In:

Turn the dress inside out. Using a tape measure and a marking tool or sewing pins, mark the amount you'll take in for the bust, waist, and hips on each side.

Draw the New Seam Line:

Starting with the new bust measurement, draw a new seam line that follows your body measurements. Continue down to the hips and waist, creating gradual curves between the lines as needed, following the natural flow of the dress.

Pin the Fabric Together:

Use sewing pins to pin together the front and back of the dress just inside the new markings. This will be where you sew the dress back together using your body measurements.

Sew Along the New Seam Line:

Using a sewing machine, sew along the pinned and marked line. Repeat this step for the other side of the dress.

Cut the Seam Allowance:

Try on the dress to ensure you're happy with the new seam lines. If adjustments are needed, sew the seams again, being careful with your measurements. If you're satisfied with the fit, cut the seam allowance, leaving 1/4" to 1/2" on the side of the new seam line. Be cautious not to cut through your stitching.

Press the Garment:

Turn the dress right side out and press the entire garment with an iron to flatten the new seam allowances.

Remember, it's always better to opt for a larger size when choosing your bridesmaid dress, as taking in a dress is generally easier than letting it out. Additionally, most bridesmaid dresses can be taken in up to two sizes without affecting the design. So, don't stress too much if your dress doesn't fit quite right off the rack; a skilled tailor will work their magic to ensure you look and feel your best on the big day!

Shortening straps

Shortening the straps on a bridesmaid dress can be done in a few different ways, depending on the style of the dress and the type of strap. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to shorten the straps:

Step 1: Assess the Length of the Straps

Before making any adjustments, it is important to assess the length of the straps. Put on the dress and adjust the straps to your desired length. Check if the dress fits properly and if the straps are comfortable. This will help you determine how much shortening is needed.

Step 2: Remove the Existing Straps

If the straps are too long and need to be shortened, the first step is to remove them by unpicking the stitches that hold them in place. Carefully remove the stitches to detach the straps from the dress.

Step 3: Measure and Cut the Straps

Once the straps are removed, measure how much shorter you need them to be. Mark the desired length on the straps and then cut them accordingly. Be careful not to cut them too short, as you cannot add fabric back once it's cut. It is always better to cut a little longer than needed and then trim as necessary.

Step 4: Reattach the Shortened Straps

After cutting the straps to the desired length, it's time to reattach them to the dress. Start by pinning the straps in place, ensuring they are even and at the correct length. Then, using a sewing machine or needle and thread, sew the straps securely in place. If using a sewing machine, opt for a straight stitch. If hand-sewing, a whipstitch is recommended.

Step 5: Finishing Touches

Once the straps are sewn in place, try on the dress again to ensure they fit properly and comfortably. If any adjustments are needed, make them now. You can also add embellishments or decorations to the straps to conceal any signs of alteration.

Alternatively, if you are looking for a quick fix or temporary solution, there are a few methods you can use without sewing:

• Using safety pins: Fold the strap over to the desired length and secure it with a safety pin.
• Knotting the straps: Tie a knot in the strap as close to the edge of the fabric as possible.
• Clear elastic: Cut a piece of elastic slightly shorter than the strap and attach it to the top and bottom of the strap using safety pins or tape. This will gather the excess fabric and shorten the strap.
• Ribbon or twill tape: Cut a piece of ribbon or twill tape twice the length you need to shorten the strap. Fold it in half lengthwise and attach it to the top of the strap with a safety pin. Then, tie the ends together at the bottom, ensuring it's tight enough to hold but not too tight to cause discomfort.

Replacing a zipper

If the zipper on a bridesmaid dress is broken, it will likely need to be replaced. This can be done by following these steps:

Finding a Replacement Zipper

First, measure the zipper and choose a replacement that is the same size, colour, and style. If the replacement zipper is too long, shorten it with a pair of strong scissors.

Removing the Old Zipper

Note how the old zipper is positioned before removing it. Then, use a seam ripper to cut the stitches holding the zipper in place. Pull gently on the zipper fabric to loosen the threads, and remove any stray threads after cutting.

Sewing the New Zipper in Place

Position the new zipper in the same way as the old one, using pins to hold it in place. If you have a sewing machine, install a zipper foot to sew the zipper in place. Thread the machine with a matching colour thread, and sew a straight stitch along the edges of the zipper. Finally, trim off any loose threads.

When to get a bridesmaid dress altered

If you are in a rush, some tailors can accommodate minor adjustments closer to the wedding date, but it's crucial to communicate with your seamstress as soon as possible to ensure they can meet your timeline.

Frequently asked questions