White Gold Wedding Ring: Why The Brass Hue?

White gold wedding rings are a popular choice for those looking for an affordable yet elegant piece of jewellery. However, many people are surprised to see their white gold rings start to turn yellow over time. This is due to the outer layer of rhodium slowly wearing away and revealing the creamy-yellow colour of the unplated white gold underneath. This discolouration is not due to tarnishing, as gold does not tarnish, but rather the true colour of the white gold showing through. While white gold is resistant to tarnishing, it does require regular upkeep from a professional jeweller to maintain its colouring.

White gold is an alloy of pure gold, nickel, copper and zinc

Nickel is a common component of white gold, with a common formulation consisting of 90% gold and 10% nickel. However, nickel is no longer used in jewellery alloys in the UK, as it can cause an allergic reaction in some people. Instead, white gold alloys may use palladium or platinum, which are also effective bleaching agents for gold.

Zinc is also added to white gold alloys, acting as a secondary bleaching agent to attenuate the colour of copper. Up to 15% zinc can be added to copper-rich alloys to change their colour to reddish yellow or dark yellow.

The alloys used in the jewellery industry are gold-palladium-silver and gold-nickel-copper-zinc. The strength of gold-nickel-copper alloys is caused by the formation of two phases: a gold-rich Au-Cu and a nickel-rich Ni-Cu, and the resulting hardening of the material.

Over time, the rhodium plating on white gold jewellery can wear off, revealing the warmer yellow tone of the gold alloy underneath. This is a natural process and does not indicate any tarnishing or discolouration of the metal.

Rhodium plating is used to make white gold appear bright and cold white

White gold is an alloy of pure yellow gold and other white metals such as palladium, platinum, silver, or nickel. The addition of these white metals gives white gold its typical silvery-white colour and masks the gold's yellowness. However, the white gold alloy still has a slightly yellow sheen and is not completely silvery-white. To achieve a bright, cold white colour, white gold jewellery is coated with rhodium.

Rhodium is a bright white precious metal in the same category as platinum. It has a pure white, gleaming colour and is closely related to platinum. When used as a plating for white gold, rhodium adds a lustrous surface and a bright, cold white appearance. Additionally, as rhodium is a very hard metal, it also provides protection to the softer alloy underneath, shielding it from scratches and dents.

Over time, the rhodium plating on white gold jewellery will wear off, revealing the yellowish-white colour of the white gold alloy underneath. This is due to several factors, such as the pH level of the skin and exposure to household chemicals or toiletries. The wearing off of rhodium plating usually occurs in patches, and the revealed yellowish-white colour of the alloy appears more yellow in comparison to the bright, cool white of rhodium.

To restore the bright white colour of white gold jewellery, it can be recoated with rhodium by a professional jeweller. This process, known as electroplating, fuses the worn white gold with fresh rhodium plating. The process requires special equipment and expertise in goldsmithing and should be performed by an experienced jeweller. Depending on the usage and wear of the jewellery, rhodium replating may be required every few months to every few years.

White gold is more expensive than yellow gold

White gold wedding rings can turn a brass-like colour over time, but this is due to the rhodium plating wearing away to reveal the natural, warmer tone of the white gold underneath. This is not due to tarnishing, as gold does not tarnish.

Now, onto the question of expense. White gold is more expensive than yellow gold, but not because of the gold content. The price of gold jewellery is determined by its content of pure gold, regardless of colour. However, the metals used to create white gold—silver, palladium, and nickel—are much more valuable than copper, which is used to create yellow gold. The cost of white gold can also vary based on the complexity of the alloying process and the metals used.

Another reason for the higher price of white gold is the additional process of rhodium plating, which is done to improve durability and create the desired luster. This is not a one-time expense, as white gold jewellery should get a new layer of rhodium every two to three years to keep it looking its best, especially if the piece is worn regularly.

The price difference between white gold and yellow gold jewellery of the same karat weight is generally due to the additional alloyed metals, like palladium, and processes such as rhodium plating. The higher the concentration of gold, the higher the price tag. So, 18K gold is more expensive than 14K or 10K gold. However, it's important to note that 18K gold is more prone to scratching and damage due to its high gold content.

In summary, while the gold content in white and yellow gold jewellery of the same karat weight is the same, white gold is generally more expensive due to the higher value of the metals used in the alloy and the additional process of rhodium plating.

Platinum is hypoallergenic and a good choice for those with metal allergies

White gold wedding rings can turn a brass-like color due to general wear and chemical reactions with environmental elements. White gold is a mixture of pure gold and white metals like silver, nickel, manganese, and palladium. However, it is not completely white and has a yellowish-white hue. To achieve a brighter, whiter color, white gold jewelry is often plated with rhodium, a process that gives it a silvery sheen and warm undertones. Over time, the rhodium plating can wear off, revealing the natural yellowish-white color of the white gold. This color change is not due to tarnishing, as gold does not tarnish, but rather the true color of the white gold showing through.

Platinum, on the other hand, is a hypoallergenic metal that is ideal for those with metal allergies. It is highly demanded and valued due to its rarity, being about 30 times rarer than gold. Platinum is 95% pure, making it the only true hypoallergenic precious metal used in jewelry. Its purity and unreactiveness to common acids, sweat, body oil, and cosmetics, make it a perfect choice for those with sensitive skin or metal allergies. Platinum is also durable, resistant to tarnishing and corrosion, and can be easily resized and reconditioned, ensuring its longevity. Its silvery-white color accentuates the sparkle of diamonds without reflecting any color off the stone.

While white gold is a popular choice for jewelry due to its elegance and durability, it requires regular upkeep to maintain its white color. In contrast, platinum retains its natural white color over time and is less likely to cause allergic reactions. Platinum's hypoallergenic properties, durability, and ability to complement diamonds make it a popular choice for bridal jewelry and those with metal allergies.

Brass is a durable, affordable alternative to gold

White gold wedding rings can turn a yellowish colour over time, due to the rhodium plating that gives them their bright white colour wearing away and revealing the natural, warmer tone of the white gold underneath. This process can be slowed by reducing the ring's exposure to natural oils, fragrances, soaps, saltwater, and chlorine.

Brass, an alloy of zinc and copper, is a durable and affordable alternative to gold. It is harder than gold and therefore more durable, and its antimicrobial and germicidal properties make it ideal for jewellery. Brass is also more affordable than gold, with a similar appearance. However, brass is more susceptible to tarnishing and corrosion than gold, especially when exposed to moisture, skin oils, and chemicals. It is also not hypoallergenic, so there is a risk of skin allergies when wearing jewellery made from brass.

Gold is a soft, dense, malleable, and resistant metal that is naturally ingrained in deposits, nuggets, and quartz rocks. It has been used in jewellery and coins since 6500 BC, and today it is a currency and a measure of wealth. Brass, on the other hand, is an alloy of zinc and copper that was discovered by the Sumerians and Hittites in 500 BC. Brass is more valuable than zinc and harder than copper, making it a popular alternative to gold for jewellers and sculptors.

In terms of appearance, brass is a duller, reddish to muted yellow metal compared to the bright golden colour of gold. Brass is also less malleable than gold, making it a more durable material for statues and other decorative objects. Additionally, brass is less dense than gold, with a density of 8.5g/cm compared to gold's density of 19.3g/cm. Electrically, brass is also less conductive than gold, with a conductivity level of 28% compared to gold's 70%.

In summary, brass is a durable and affordable alternative to gold, with similar aesthetic qualities but differing physical and chemical properties. While brass may be more susceptible to tarnishing and corrosion, it is also harder and more antimicrobial than gold, making it a popular choice for jewellery, musical instruments, and decorative objects.

Frequently asked questions