Junior Rasmussen
Princess Diana's wedding dress is one of the most iconic dresses in history. The ivory taffeta gown, with its 25-foot train, intricate embroidery, and 10,000 pearls, set trends for years to come and sparked copycat dresses worldwide. Designed by David and Elizabeth Emanuel, the dress was a closely guarded secret until its dramatic unveiling at the royal wedding ceremony in 1981. The dress was later bequeathed to her sons, Princes William and Harry, and has been displayed at various exhibitions, including Royal Style in the Making at Kensington Palace in 2021.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Date of Wedding | 29 July 1981 |
| Wedding Location | St. Paul's Cathedral |
| Bride | Lady Diana Spencer |
| Groom | Charles, Prince of Wales |
| Designer | David and Elizabeth Emanuel |
| Material | Ivory silk taffeta and antique lace |
| Train Length | 25 feet (7.6 m) |
| Veil Length | 153 yards (140 m) |
| Value | £9,000 ($43,573 in 2023) |
| Distinctive Features | 18-karat gold horseshoe, mother-of-pearl sequins, 10,000 pearls, a small blue bow, antique lace |
| Back-up Dress | Pale ivory silk taffeta with embroidered scalloped details on the hem and sleeves |
| Current Ownership | Princes William and Harry |
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What You'll Learn
The dress' designers, David and Elizabeth Emanuel
Elizabeth Florence Emanuel, born on 5 July 1953, is a British fashion designer known for designing Princess Diana's wedding dress along with her former husband, David Emanuel. Elizabeth studied at the Harrow School of Art, where she met David Emanuel in 1974. They married in 1976 and became the first married couple to be accepted by the Royal College of Art for a two-year master's degree in Fashion. They launched their label in 1977 and began serving celebrity and royal clients.
Elizabeth and David designed Princess Diana's wedding dress for her wedding to Prince Charles in 1981. The ivory gown featured a ruffled collar, puffed sleeves, and a 25-foot train—the longest in royal wedding history. It was embellished with 10,000 pearls and hand-embroidered with mother-of-pearl sequins. The dress sparked global fame for the Emanuels, with Elizabeth describing the event as a fairy-tale wedding.
After separating in 1990 and divorcing, Elizabeth retained the Brook Street studio and salon under her own label. She has since designed for various brands and productions, including The Walt Disney Company, Virgin Atlantic, and Estee Lauder. In 2010, she launched a new label, Art of Being, and returned to the catwalk during London Fashion Week. Elizabeth has established herself as one of the leading British couturiers, dressing celebrities and members of royalty.
David Emanuel, meanwhile, was involved in legal disputes with Elizabeth over copyright infringement regarding their collaborative work. The dispute was settled, with Elizabeth gaining intellectual property rights to the Emanuel partnership. David has continued to work in the fashion industry and remains recognised for his role in designing Princess Diana's iconic wedding dress.
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The dress' iconic status
Princess Diana's wedding dress is considered one of the most famous dresses in the world and has become the most iconic in modern history. The dress was designed by former husband-and-wife duo David and Elizabeth Emanuel, who described it as a dress that "had to be something that was going to go down in history, but also something that Diana loved". The Emanuels were the only people who knew about Princess Diana's dress and veil design, which was kept under lock and key until hours before the ceremony.
The ivory silk taffeta and antique lace gown featured a 25-foot (7.6 m) train and a 153-yard (140 m) tulle veil, valued then at £9,000 (equivalent to $43,573 in 2023). The dress was hand-embroidered with mother-of-pearl sequins and an estimated 10,000 pearls. The lace used to trim it was antique and handmade, and a square of Carrickmacross lace that once belonged to Queen Mary was attached to the gown. An 18-karat gold horseshoe was stitched into the petticoats as a sign of good fortune, and a petite blue bow was sewn into the interior waistband as her "something blue".
The dress set wedding fashion trends after the wedding, with large puffed sleeves, full skirts, and "soft touch fabrics" becoming popular requests. Copies by other dressmakers were available "within hours" of the 1981 wedding. Many bridal experts considered the dress a "gold standard" in wedding fashion in the years after the wedding. The dress toured for many years with the exhibition "Diana: A Celebration", with Althorp House, Northampton, as the prime display location. In 2018, the dress was chosen as one of the "Most Influential British Royal Wedding Dresses of All Time" by Time magazine.
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The dress' backup
The backup dress was created by the Emanuels, who also designed the original wedding dress. The spare dress was to be used in case the original dress' design was revealed before the wedding. The backup dress was made of "pale ivory silk taffeta with embroidered scalloped details on the hem and sleeves." It featured a V-neck, three-quarter sleeves, and a wide skirt. It also had tiny pearls sewn onto the bodice.
The Emanuels went to great lengths to keep the design of the original dress a secret. They installed a safe in their studio to store the designs and fabric swatches. Despite their efforts, the media was still able to get ahold of some information about the dress. The backup dress was created to be worn only if the original design was leaked to the press.
The backup dress played an important role in ensuring the secrecy and surprise of Princess Diana's wedding dress. It allowed for a dramatic unveiling on the wedding day, which was a highly anticipated moment for the public. The original dress has since become one of the most iconic and influential wedding dresses of all time.
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The dress' veil and accessories
Princess Diana's wedding dress was an ivory silk taffeta gown with a 25-foot train and a 153-yard tulle veil, valued at $115,000. It was designed by British designers and former husband-and-wife duo David and Elizabeth Emanuel. The Emanuels described it as a dress that "had to be something that was going to go down in history, but also something that Diana loved".
The dress was hand-embroidered with mother-of-pearl sequins and 10,000 pearls. It featured a frilly neckline, ruffled cuffs, puffed sleeves, a fitted bodice, a voluminous ballgown skirt, and delicate lace detailing. The lace used to trim the gown was antique and handmade, and a square of Carrickmacross lace that once belonged to Queen Mary was attached to the gown. An 18-karat gold horseshoe was also stitched into the petticoats as a sign of good fortune.
Diana's bridal ensemble also included a cascading bouquet of gardenias, stephanotis, freesias, orchids, lily of the valley, Earl Mountbatten roses, ivy, veronica, and myrtle, which is a royal wedding tradition. The Emanuels also created a matching taffeta parasol for Diana to use in case of rain on the wedding day.
Due to the high level of public interest in the dress, a second backup wedding gown was created in case the original design was leaked to the press. This dress shared some features with the main wedding dress, including a V-neck, three-quarter sleeves, and a wide skirt, but it had a more pronounced V-neckline and no lace.
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The dress' ownership
Princess Diana's wedding dress is one of the most iconic dresses in history. The ivory silk taffeta and antique lace gown, with a 25-foot train and a 153-yard tulle veil, was valued at $114,800 at the time of its creation. The dress was designed by British designers David and Elizabeth Emanuel, who described it as a dress that "had to be something that was going to go down in history, but also something that Diana loved".
The dress remained a closely guarded secret until its dramatic unveiling at the royal ceremony. The Emanuels went to great lengths to keep the design a secret, even installing a safe in their studio to store the sketches and fabric swatches. They also created a second backup dress in case the design of the original was leaked to the press. This backup dress had a more pronounced V-neckline and no lace, with tiny pearls sewn onto the bodice and embroidered scalloped details on the hem and sleeves.
In her will, Princess Diana bequeathed her bespoke gown to her sons, Princes William and Harry. They officially inherited it in 2014 when Prince Harry turned 30. The brothers have since loaned out the dress for exhibitions, including the "Royal Style in the Making" show at Kensington Palace in 2021.
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Frequently asked questions
Princess Diana's wedding dress was designed by the husband-and-wife duo David and Elizabeth Emanuel.
The dress was made of ivory silk taffeta and antique lace, with intricate embroidery, 10,000 mother-of-pearl sequins, and 10,000 pearls. It also featured a square of Carrickmacross lace that once belonged to Queen Mary.
The dress toured for many years with the exhibition "Diana: A Celebration", with Althorp House, Northampton being the prime display location. In 2014, ownership of the dress was transferred from Diana's brother to her sons, Prince William and Prince Harry.
