George Boyle
The wedding dress was an opportunity for brides-to-be to showcase their wealth to their fiancé and his family. Wealthy brides tended to opt for colours that were more difficult and expensive to make, such as blue or gold. The archetypal early Victorian wedding dress had a fitted bodice, small waist, and a full skirt made of fabrics such as gauze, tulle, organdie, silk, cashmere, or linen. This was in line with the general shape of women's wear at the time, which reflected the modest values that were prevalent in Victorian England. The colour of the dress would depend on the class and budget of the bride.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Fabric | Gauze, tulle, organdie, silk, cashmere, linen, lace, crinolines, petticoats, mousseline de soie, cotton, wool, calico, cambric, broderie anglaise, moire, taffeta, polyester, nylon, velvet |
| Colour | White, silver, gold, blue, magenta, electric blue, vivid yellow, brown, grey, light purple, beige, black |
| Style | Fitted bodice, small waist, full skirt, long bodice, puffed-up portion at the back, draped train, corset, chemisette, embroidery, dropped shoulder seams, tightly-laced waists, bustles, polonaises, tournures, trimmings, pleats, engageantes |
| Silhouette | Wide skirts, bell-shaped sleeves, narrow skirts, long trains |
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What You'll Learn
Queen Victoria's wedding dress
The dress was white, which was a departure from the gold and silver colours typically worn by royal brides. The choice of colour was likely influenced by a desire to be seen as Prince Albert's wife, rather than a monarch. It is also speculated that Victoria chose white because it was the perfect colour to highlight the delicate lace.
The white wedding dress was not a novel concept in 1840, but it was uncommon. After Queen Victoria's wedding, white became a popular choice for wealthy, fashionable brides, as it was a show of wealth. White formal garments were considered impractical due to the difficulty of keeping them clean.
The slim waist, lace, and full nineteenth-century skirt layered over crinolines and petticoats were characteristic of the desirable shape in a wedding dress during the Victorian era. This silhouette can still be considered the most recognisable and classic style for weddings.
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White wedding dresses
The white wedding dress became popular in the mid-nineteenth century after Queen Victoria wore a white gown to her wedding to Prince Albert in 1840. The dress was made of English silk and Honiton lace. The white dress was seen as a symbol of innocence and purity, as well as a show of wealth, as white formal garments were considered impractical and expensive to maintain.
Prior to Queen Victoria, wealthy brides often chose colours that were more difficult and costly to produce, such as blue or gold, to showcase their social status. The white wedding dress became a lasting tradition due to a combination of new technologies, industrialization, media influence, and admiration for the monarchy. Magazines played a significant role in spreading fashion trends, and illustrations of Queen Victoria's wedding dress popularized the colour and style among middle-class women in the Western world.
The archetypal early Victorian wedding dress featured a fitted bodice, a slim waist, and a full skirt made of fabrics such as gauze, tulle, organdie, silk, cashmere, or linen. This silhouette, with lace and a full skirt layered over crinolines and petticoats, became highly desirable and is still considered the classic shape for wedding dresses today.
The increasing use of sewing machines, commercial paper patterns, and ready-to-wear clothing in the late 19th century also contributed to the evolution of Victorian wedding dress styles. The development of textile production during the American Civil War (1861-1865) enabled complex patterns and eye-catching florals, plaids, and paisleys to become more accessible and influence the designs of the time.
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Fabrics for different classes
The wedding dress was a significant garment in Victorian culture, with the colour and fabric chosen by the bride being dictated by her class and budget. The archetypal early Victorian wedding dress had a fitted bodice, small waist, and a full skirt made of gauze, tulle, organdie, silk, cashmere, or linen. Wealthy brides tended to opt for colours that were more expensive and difficult to make, such as blue or gold. White wedding dresses became popular in the mid-19th century after Queen Victoria wore a white gown when she married Prince Albert in 1840.
The desire to be well-dressed and fashionable increased during the Victorian era, with the sewing machine, commercial paper patterns, fashion magazines, and the growing ready-to-wear trade all contributing to this trend. Even shop assistants and maids could now afford to be fashionable, and Sundays and holidays were opportunities to dress up and display one's wealth.
The amount and quality of fabric used in Victorian clothing were often a display of wealth. Upper-class women wore tightly laced corsets over bodices or chemisettes, paired with heavily decorated skirts and multiple layers of petticoats. Middle-class women dressed similarly, but with less extravagant decorations. Fabrics used in skirts included linen with horsehair in the weave, crinolines, and later, the cage crinoline, which freed women from heavy petticoats.
Silk was worn by all classes of people during the Victorian era, though it was used more sparingly by the lower classes. It was often used for waistcoats, linings, and facings, and was occasionally ribbed for use in waistcoats. Other fabrics used by Victorian men included broadcloth, linen, duck, pongee, and seersucker. Town and formal wear were usually made from dark grey or black woollen cloth.
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Lace and embroidery
Lace was also used in the engageantes, or false sleeves, that were commonly worn under the bell-shaped sleeves of day dresses. These were usually made of lace, linen, or lawn, with cambric and broderie anglaise. They were removable and easy to launder, making them a practical choice for the era.
The use of lace and embroidery extended beyond the wedding dress and was a prominent feature of Victorian fashion more broadly. Upper-class women often wore tightly laced corsets, emphasising a tiny waist, over a bodice or chemisette, paired with a skirt adorned with numerous embroideries and trims. The amount and quality of fabric were often a display of wealth, and the intricate details of lace and embroidery certainly contributed to this.
The popularity of lace and embroidery in Victorian fashion was influenced by advancements in technology and industrialisation. The development of mass production processes and the proliferation of fashion magazines allowed intricate patterns and styles to be quickly disseminated and reproduced, making them more accessible to the masses. This contributed to the lasting influence of Queen Victoria's wedding dress, as the style and colour were easily popularised through magazine illustrations and descriptions.
The desire to showcase wealth through fashion, combined with the increasing availability of intricate lace and embroidery details, resulted in elaborate Victorian wedding dresses that emphasised a slim waist and full skirt. This silhouette, often achieved through the use of lace and embroidery techniques, became a classic and recognisable style that continues to influence wedding dress trends even today.
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Victorian fashion trends
During the Victorian era, social mobility was a significant factor influencing fashion choices. Weddings, for example, were often a means to elevate social status by marrying into a particular family. The wedding dress itself was a showcase of wealth, with fabrics like silk, gauze, tulle, organdie, cashmere, and linen constructed over crinolines and petticoats to create a desirable slim waist and full skirt silhouette. Non-royal brides typically wore colours like blue or gold to showcase their wealth, as white was considered impractical due to the difficulty of keeping it clean. However, after Queen Victoria's wedding to Prince Albert in 1840, the white wedding dress became synonymous with purity and innocence, gaining popularity among brides across the globe.
Upper-class women often wore tightly laced corsets that emphasised their tiny waists and exaggerated their hips and busts. Skirts were adorned with numerous embroideries and trims, and over time, the overskirt evolved into a detached basque, elongating the bodice over the hips. Middle-class women adopted similar styles but with more subdued decorations. Men's formal clothing became less colourful, but brilliant waistcoats, cummerbunds, smoking jackets, and dressing gowns added a touch of colour and richness to their ensembles.
The sewing machine, commercial paper patterns, and the growing ready-to-wear trade enabled people from various socioeconomic backgrounds to participate in fashion trends. Sundays and holidays were opportunities for individuals to dress up and showcase their fashion sense and prosperity.
As the Victorian era progressed, advancements in printing and the establishment of large, fixed-price department stores contributed to a new age of consumerism, with the rising middle class embracing mass-produced clothing. Women's fashion reflected the increasingly sedentary lifestyle of the time, with dresses designed for aesthetic appeal rather than utility.
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Frequently asked questions
Queen Victoria's wedding dress was made of Spitalfields silk and Honiton lace.
Victorian wedding dresses were made of fabrics such as gauze, tulle, organdie, silk, cashmere, and linen. The dresses were often adorned with lace, and full nineteenth-century skirts were layered over crinolines and petticoats.
Wealthy brides tended to opt for colours that were more difficult and expensive to make, such as blue or gold. White wedding dresses became popular after Queen Victoria wore a white gown when she married Prince Albert in 1840. Before this, common colours for wedding dresses included russet, brown, grey, and light purple.
Other fabrics used in Victorian fashion include cotton, calico, wool, taffeta, and silk.
