Rhiannon Hendricks
The wedding dress has evolved over the years, with different colours and styles being favoured by brides across the world. In ancient Rome, brides wore long veils of deep yellow, described as being the colour of flame, over a complicated six-part braided hairstyle. The colour of the wedding dress in ancient Rome was not white, as is common today, but a variety of colours including orange, saffron, blue, silver, purple, and ivory.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Veil colour | Deep yellow, "the colour of flame" |
| Veil trim colour | Purple |
| Veil type | Long |
| Hairstyle | Six-part braided |
| Hair accessories | Flowers, garlands |
| Dress colour | White |
| Dress type | Tunica recta |
| Belt | "Knot of Hercules" |
| Shoes | Saffron-dyed orange |
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What You'll Learn
The colour red
The red veil, known as the flammeum, was flame-coloured and shrouded the bride from head to foot. It was also believed to act as a deterrent to evil spirits, who would be unable to enter the bride through the shroud of a muslin veil. Pliny the Elder refers to the veil as "antiquissimus" (meaning "very old"), and claims that the colour luteus was held in high regard and reserved for bridal veils.
In addition to the veil, ancient Roman brides wore a white tunic called a tunica recta, which covered the entire body down to their feet. The tunic was tied with a double-knot around the hips, with a belt called a zona, which symbolised virginity. The groom was the only person allowed to untie the belt during the ceremony in a gesture called zonam solver.
Overall, the colour red played a significant role in the wedding attire of ancient Roman brides, with the red veil being a key element of their ensemble.
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Tunica recta
In Ancient Rome, brides wore a white woven tunic called the 'tunica recta'. The tunica recta covered the body from head to toe and was tied with a double knot around the hips. The tunic was belted with an elaborate "Knot of Hercules", symbolising chastity and fertility. The groom was the only person allowed to untie the knot in a gesture called 'zonam solver' at the beginning of the wedding ceremony. The bride's head and face were covered by a veil, flowers, and a crown of leaves, typically from a Crepe Myrtle bush.
The colour of the tunica recta is at odds with some sources, which claim that the colour most commonly associated with bridal dresses in ancient Rome was not white, but red. However, it is important to note that the tunica recta was often worn under a flame-coloured veil, which may be the source of the association with the colour red.
The veil, or 'flammeum', was always flame-coloured and shrouded the bride from head to foot. The colour was reserved for bridal veils and was known as 'luteus'. Sources suggest that the veil may have covered the bride's face until the moment of the marriage. This was believed to act as a deterrent to evil spirits, who would be unable to enter the bride through the shroud of a muslin veil.
The hairstyle and headdress were also focal points of the bridal attire in ancient Rome. The bridal hairstyle, known as the 'tutulus', was a very specific design worn exclusively by brides. The bride's hair was divided into six locks, possibly using a tool called a 'celibate spear' or 'hasta caelibaris' in Latin. The locks were then curled and coiled on top of her head, leaving a few tendrils around her face and neck.
The bride's look was completed with a bouquet of herbs, which she would have picked herself, along with flowers that she also used to weave a garland to hold her veil in place.
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Veils
The veil was an integral part of the wedding attire of ancient Roman brides, symbolizing modesty and submission to her husband. The veil, known as the "flammeum", was flame-coloured, ranging from different tones of yellow to orange, or even pink. It was also referred to as the "flame-coloured" veil, as it was believed to bring light and warmth to the bride's new husband's home. The colour yellow was also significant in that it was believed to bring good fortune to the marriage, as the Flaminica Dialis, the priestess and wife of Jupiter, wore a similar veil and was unable to divorce him.
The veil was often accompanied by a wreath of flowers and herbs, which the bride would pick herself. The flowers and herbs were chosen to represent fidelity and fertility, with marjoram symbolizing love, honour, and joy, rosemary for fidelity, lavender for devotion, sage for a long life, and myrtle for fertility and purity. The veil was also believed to protect the bride from evil spirits, who would be unable to enter her through the shroud of the veil.
The veil was typically full-length, covering the bride from head to foot, and was likely to be made of a muslin-like material. It was held in place by a garland of flowers, which was woven by the bride and sat on top of her intricate hairstyle. The hairstyle, known as the "tutulus", was a very specific design with six locks of hair, curled and coiled on top of the head, with a few tendrils left around the face and neck.
The veil was an important part of the wedding ceremony, with references to it found throughout Roman literature. In his work, Catullus instructs children to "Raise high, O boys, the torches: I see the gleaming veil approach." In another work, he describes the god Hymen, dressed like a bride, presumably wearing a veil. In the Epigrams of Martial, the author uses the weaving of the flammeum as shorthand for the entire wedding ceremony.
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Flowers
The flowers chosen for the garland were believed to represent fidelity and fertility. The bouquet often included marjoram, symbolising love, honour, and joy; rosemary for fidelity; lavender for devotion; sage for a long life; and myrtle for fertility and purity.
In addition to the flower garland, the bride would wear a crown of leaves, typically from a Crepe Myrtle bush, and a corolla—a crown made of herbs, flowers, and foliage that she had personally handpicked. The bride's hair was also parted into six locks, possibly using a spear, and she may have worn a wreath of flowers and herbs.
While flowers were a key part of the bride's attire, they were not the only floral element of ancient Roman weddings. Garlands of flowers and herbs were also woven by servants, and flowers were used to decorate the wedding venue.
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Jewellery
Ancient Roman brides wore engagement rings, which signified the binding contract between the betrothed couple. The husband-to-be would give his future wife an iron wedding band to wear on the third finger of her left hand, which was believed to be directly connected to the heart. The ring was made of iron to symbolise the strength of the marriage.
Brides also wore a type of bridal veil called a "flammeum", which was flame-coloured and transparent. The veil was symbolic, and the bride was referred to as "nubo", related to "nubes" or cloud, literally meaning "I veil myself". The word "nubo" also led to words such as "nuptiae", meaning wedding, and "nuptial". The veil was made of a fine material, and saffron was sometimes used to dye it.
The bridal hairstyle was also a focal point at ancient Roman weddings. The bride's hair was parted with an iron spear to ward off evil and adorned with flowers and a floral headdress of traditional, lucky flowers and herbs such as marjoram, rosemary for fidelity, lavender for devotion, sage for a long life, and myrtle for fertility and purity.
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Frequently asked questions
Ancient Roman brides wore a white woven tunic called a "tunica recta" belted with an elaborate "Knot of Hercules", symbolizing chastity and fertility.
Ancient Roman brides wore long veils of deep yellow, described as being "the color of flame".
Ancient Roman brides wore orange shoes dyed saffron.
