Franklin Dean
Wedding dress alterations can be an emotional, time-consuming, expensive, and confusing process. However, they are a necessary part of ensuring your gown fits you perfectly on your big day. The first step is to select a fabric, sketch your dress, and determine its basic shape. Then, you can start to think about measurements and making adjustments for the perfect fit. It's important to keep in mind that even after alterations, your dress might still not fit, so it's crucial to remain calm and seek help from a professional seamstress or consultant. They can advise on the best closure for your dress, whether that's a zipper, buttons, loops, or a corset-style lace-up back.
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What You'll Learn
Choosing a fabric
Choosing the fabric for your wedding dress is an important step in the process of making your dream dress a reality. The type of fabric you choose will impact the style and silhouette of your gown, as well as the level of formality and the overall cost. Here are some factors to consider when selecting the perfect fabric for your wedding dress:
Personal Style and Comfort
The fabric you choose should reflect your personal style and make you feel comfortable and confident. Consider the level of formality of your wedding and select a fabric that aligns with the tone of your celebration. If you have sensitive skin, avoid materials that may cause irritation. It is also important to choose a fabric that feels comfortable against your skin, especially if you plan to wear your dress for an extended period.
Season and Climate
Consider the season and climate of your wedding day when selecting a fabric. For warm weather or a beach wedding, choose lightweight and breathable fabrics such as chiffon, silk chiffon, or Georgette. These fabrics will help you stay cool and create a beautiful, flowing silhouette. For a winter wedding, opt for thicker, embroidered weaves or a Mikado silk blend that provides insulation while remaining lightweight.
Dress Silhouette and Design
The desired silhouette and design of your dress will also determine the best fabric choice. For a structured look that holds its shape, consider Mikado silk, a thicker silk blend. If you prefer a flowing, light, or voluminous silhouette, tulle or chiffon are excellent choices. Tulle, a stiff, transparent netting, can be layered to create a fairytale-inspired look, while chiffon's sheer and transparent style adds a floaty and ethereal vibe.
Fabric Characteristics and Cost
Understand the characteristics of different fabrics and how they will impact the overall look and cost of your dress. Silk, for example, can range from highly structured and stiff to light-as-air and flowy, depending on how it is woven. The fabric's sheen, weight, and drape will also contribute to the overall aesthetic. Consider the cost implications of different fabrics and whether you require any intricate details or embellishments, as these can increase the price.
Practice and Preparation
Before cutting into your chosen wedding dress fabric, consider purchasing an inexpensive fabric to practice with. This will allow you to perfect your measurements, cutting, and sewing techniques, ensuring a more precise and confident approach when working with your final fabric.
Remember, the fabric you choose will significantly impact the overall look and feel of your wedding dress, so take the time to consider your options and seek guidance from bridal stylists or consultants if needed.
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Selecting a silhouette
A-line
A-line wedding dresses are universally flattering and elegant, hugging your body in all the right places, especially the waist area, creating a slimmer waistline while also flattering the bust. This silhouette is fitted until the waist, where it flares out gently to create an "A" shape. It is a versatile and timeless option, perfect for brides who want a grand moment without the volume of a ballgown.
Ballgown
Ballgowns are a classic silhouette, often associated with fairytale charm and princess-like dreams. This silhouette is fitted through the natural waist or hip and flares out dramatically with voluminous skirts. The contrast between the fitted bodice and the large skirt helps to accentuate the waistline and can be particularly flattering for pear-shaped figures. Ballgowns work beautifully for tall brides as they can handle a lot of volume without appearing shortened.
Mermaid/Trumpet
The mermaid silhouette is for brides who want to showcase their curves. This style features a fitted bodice that hugs the body from the chest down to the knee, where it flares out dramatically. It is similar to the trumpet silhouette, which is also fitted through the chest and waist but flares out slightly around the knees, providing greater freedom of movement.
Fit-and-Flare
The fit-and-flare silhouette is perfect for brides who want to accentuate their curves while maintaining comfort. This style is fitted through the bodice and hips, flaring out gradually towards the hemline. It highlights the waist, skims over the hips, and flares into a wider shape, creating a soft and romantic finish.
Sheath
The sheath silhouette is simple and elegant, following your natural body shape from top to toe. It gives a snug fit, elongating the figure and making petite brides appear taller. This style is a good choice if you want to draw attention to your curves or prefer a dress without a train.
Column
Column wedding dresses have a slim-fitting, straight-cut silhouette without much shaping. They often use fabrics like taffeta, brocade, and corded lace to give structure to the design. This style is a good option for brides with athletic frames who want a tailor-made dress to accentuate their figures.
High-Low
High-low wedding dresses feature a circular hem, with the front hemline raised above the ground and the back hemline touching the floor, sometimes with a billowing train. This silhouette creates an asymmetrical look and is perfect for showing off your bridal shoes. It is a classic yet unexpected choice, suitable for less formal settings or events like the rehearsal dinner, ceremony, or after-party.
Remember, when selecting a silhouette, it is essential to prioritize comfort and choose a style that evokes the feeling you desire for your special day.
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Getting the right fit
Multiple Fittings
It is normal to have two to three fittings for a wedding dress, with the first one taking place about six to eight weeks before the wedding. During the first fitting, the seamstress will assess the dress and the alterations needed. Subsequent fittings will involve fine-tuning the dress to ensure a perfect fit. It is recommended to schedule your final fitting one to two weeks before the wedding, as your body is unlikely to change significantly during this period.
Choosing the Right Style
When selecting your wedding dress, consider styles that are more adjustable, such as A-line, ball gown, or empire-waist dresses. These styles offer more flexibility than fitted silhouettes like mermaids or sheaths. If you anticipate changes in your measurements, opt for a corset-back gown or a dress with stretch fabric or a knit lining.
Undergarments
The right undergarments can make a significant difference in the fit of your dress. Be sure to wear the appropriate undergarments, such as a bra that supports your bust and complements the dress's bodice, during your fittings and on your wedding day. If your dress has built-in shapewear, bra cups, or a corset back, take this into account when choosing your undergarments.
Lifestyle Changes
Avoid making significant lifestyle changes, such as starting a new exercise routine or diet, after your final dress fitting. These changes can affect your body shape and, consequently, the fit of your dress. Minor adjustments to your routine, like adding squats to your workout, can impact the fit, especially if your dress has a fitted silhouette.
Last-Minute Adjustments
If you encounter any issues with the fit on your wedding day, stay calm. Wedding dresses often require assistance to put on, so enlist the help of one or two people to position the dress correctly. If your dress is too big, consider adding bra cups to fill out the bust area, or use a sash or belt to cinch the waist. If the dress is too small, shapewear can help smooth out any tight areas, and you can always remove bra padding if the bust is too tight.
Remember, it is normal for a wedding dress to feel snug, and with the right adjustments and assistance, you'll be walking down the aisle with confidence and grace.
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Adding closures
Types of Closures
The type of closure you choose will depend on the style and silhouette of your wedding dress. Here are some common types of closures:
- Zipper Closure: Zippers are commonly used on the back or side of a gown and provide a quick way to get in and out of the dress. They are simple to use and can be accompanied by buttons for added security or an illusion of a button closure.
- Button and Loop Closure: This type of closure gives a classic look to the dress. It uses fabric-covered buttons and loops to secure the back or other areas of the gown, such as sleeves or side slits.
- Corset Closure: Corset closures can give a regal or modern look, depending on the style of the gown. They consist of a ribbon threaded through grommets or loops in the back, similar to lacing up shoes, and can be tightened or loosened throughout the day.
Tips for Adding Closures
- Consider the Silhouette: The type of closure you add will depend on the silhouette of your dress. For example, a ball gown or A-line dress often has a corset closure for a royal look, while a sheath or mermaid gown with a corset back gives a sexier vibe.
- Customise your Dress: If possible, choose a dress that can be customised with the desired closure to minimise alterations.
- Seek Professional Help: Altering closures can be challenging, so it is best to consult a seamstress or tailor before making any changes to your gown. They can guide you on the best type of closure and ensure that the alterations are done correctly.
- Practice with Inexpensive Fabric: Before cutting or altering your wedding dress fabric, consider practising on inexpensive fabric to perfect your technique and ensure you are happy with the chosen closure.
- Allow for Multiple Fittings: Wedding dress alterations typically require multiple fittings to achieve the perfect fit. Plan ahead and allow for three to four fittings, or even more if necessary, to ensure your dress is comfortable and secure.
Remember, adding closures to your wedding dress is a personalised process, and you can always seek advice from bridal stylists or consultants to find the best solution for your dream dress.
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Asking for help
Bridal Stylist or Consultant
When you first start shopping for your wedding dress, it's a good idea to discuss any concerns about the fit with a bridal stylist or consultant. They can guide you towards styles that offer more adjustability, such as corset back gowns, A-line, ballgown, or empire-waist dresses. These styles can accommodate fluctuations in measurements better than fitted silhouettes like mermaids or sheaths. Additionally, stretch fabrics or knit linings can provide more flexibility.
Seamstress or Tailor
After selecting your wedding dress, the next crucial step is to secure a fitting and alterations appointment with a skilled seamstress or tailor. Most wedding dresses require alterations to ensure a perfect fit. During the fittings, it's important to wear the same undergarments and shoes you plan to wear on your wedding day. This will help the seamstress pinpoint the necessary adjustments. Remember to communicate any specific change requests clearly and consider taking pictures at each fitting to track the progress and ensure consistency.
Bridal Party and Family Members
On your wedding day, don't hesitate to enlist the help of your bridal party or family members when putting on your dress. They can assist in shimmying the dress up to your natural waist and gently pushing the fabric towards the back to create more space for the person clasping the dress. Having a small army of helpers ensures a smooth and stress-free process, reducing the risk of any last-minute panics.
Wedding Planner
If you're working with a wedding planner, they can be an invaluable resource for navigating any dress-related challenges. Wedding planners often have extensive industry connections and can recommend trusted seamstresses or tailors for alterations. They can also provide guidance on timeline management, ensuring you have sufficient time for fittings and adjustments.
Remember, it's completely normal to need assistance with your wedding dress. By involving the right people at each stage, from shopping to alterations to the big day itself, you can ensure that your dress fits beautifully and reflects your unique style.
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Frequently asked questions
It's important to remember that these things happen more often than you think. Take a deep breath and assess whether the dress is too big or too small. If it's too big, consider using a crochet hook to pull the loops around each button. If it's too small, ask your bridal party or family members to help you get into the dress. Have them shimmy the dress up to your natural waist, then push the fabric towards the back of the dress to give space for the person at the back to clasp it.
If the dress is feeling a little snug, try wearing shapewear underneath. The material can help your wedding dress slide on more easily.
Go back to your seamstress and request more alterations to get the perfect fit. Two months is plenty of time to let the seams out.
A-line, ball gown, or empire-waist styles are more adjustable than fit and flares, mermaids, or sheaths. If you think your measurements will change, consider a corset back gown or a dress with a zipper closure.
Always wear the same underwear and shoes that you plan to wear on your wedding day. This will ensure that the dress fits you perfectly and you won't need to make last-minute adjustments.
