George Boyle
A wedding dress is often the most important part of a bride's special day, but it's rare for a bride's body to match a designer's dress perfectly. This is where a seamstress comes in. A seamstress can help with everything from simple hemming to resizing, adding straps, or altering the neckline. They can also provide expert advice and ensure your dress is the best representation of you and your style. It's important to do your research and seek a trusted tailor or seamstress with experience working with wedding gowns and specific dress fabrics, styles, and embellishments. The cost of alterations varies, but most brides spend a few hundred dollars, and sometimes closer to $1,000.
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What You'll Learn
Hemming the length of the dress
Hemming the length of a wedding dress is one of the most common adjustments made by seamstresses. This is done to ensure the bride can move with ease and not trip over the fabric of her dress. The process involves adjusting the hemline, which can be done on floor-length gowns, as well as mini and midi lengths, to achieve the desired length.
When attending a wedding dress fitting, it is important to bring the shoes you plan to wear on the big day. This allows the seamstress to determine the correct length for the hem and ensure you won't trip on the dress. It is also recommended to bring a pair of shoes with a similar heel height if you haven't chosen your wedding shoes yet, as the hem length will depend on the height of the shoe.
During the fitting, the seamstress will pin the dress hemline while you wear it, allowing you to walk around and ensure the length is comfortable. This process may involve multiple fittings to fine-tune the length and ensure it is perfect. It is important to note that the fabric can always be cut away, but it cannot be added back, so it is better to err on the side of caution.
Additionally, when hemming a wedding dress with a train, the seamstress may lift the beading and lace trim on the bottom of the dress, hem the fabric, and then place it back down. This is a labour-intensive process and may impact the timeline of alterations.
In some cases, the bride may request to remove the train hem altogether, which can be done by making an opening in the back or side seam lining to turn the dress inside out and replace the machine-sewn hem. This process ensures that any detailing on the hem, such as lace or beading, is not lost.
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Adjusting the waist, bust and hips
A seamstress can do a lot to adjust the waist, bust, and hips of a wedding dress. Wedding dress alterations are essential to achieving the perfect fit and ensuring the bride feels comfortable and confident on their big day.
Bust Adjustments
Adjusting the bust of a wedding dress is a common alteration. Each body is unique, and the fashion industry cannot cater to every individual size and angle. Therefore, alterations are necessary to ensure the dress fits the bride's bust securely. A seamstress will take measurements and adjust the side seams of the dress, taking equal amounts of fabric from both sides. If the dress is too tight in the bust, the seamstress can use a seam ripper to gently remove the seams and adjust the fabric accordingly.
Waist Adjustments
Taking in the waist of a wedding dress is another standard alteration. This process involves the seamstress taking measurements and pinning the areas that need to be taken in to create a more fitted silhouette. Sometimes, adjustments at the waist can impact the design of the dress, especially if it has intricate details or patterns. In such cases, it may be preferable to leave the waist as is to avoid an uneven design.
Hip Adjustments
Adjusting the hips of a wedding dress can be tricky, and sometimes it is not recommended as it may not make a significant difference. However, if the hips of the dress seem to bunch up, a seamstress might suggest raising the waist seam to resolve the issue. This alteration can be time-consuming and expensive, especially if it interferes with intricate lace panels or other details at the waist.
Hemming
In addition to the above adjustments, a seamstress can also hem the wedding dress to ensure the bride doesn't trip while walking down the aisle. The ideal hem length is often described as "kissing the floor," where the dress barely touches the ground, allowing the front portion of the shoe to be visible when stepping forward.
Overall, a skilled seamstress can work wonders to adjust the waist, bust, and hips of a wedding dress, ensuring the bride feels confident and comfortable on their special day.
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Adding straps or altering the neckline
A seamstress can add straps to a wedding dress, and there are several ways to do this. The fabric of the straps should match the fabric of the dress, and the thickness of the straps is also a consideration—the bride may want thin spaghetti straps or something a little thicker. Halter straps will require more fabric to create a tie at the back. The fabric can be sourced from the designer, or, if there is enough fabric left from the hem, this can be used. If the dress is made from lace, the straps should be hand-stitched to avoid the fabric getting caught in a machine.
A bride may also wish to alter the neckline of her dress. This could be to change the style, for example, from a straight neckline to a sweetheart shape, or from a V-neck to a scoop or square neckline. Altering the neckline can also be a way to make the dress more modest, for example by adding sleeves, or adapting the style for the season. A bateau neckline is a timeless and sophisticated option, while an off-the-shoulder neckline is a more alluring choice.
It is important to choose a trusted tailor or seamstress with experience working with wedding gowns, and the specific fabric, style, and embellishments of the dress. A skilled seamstress will be able to advise on the best way to add straps or alter the neckline to achieve the desired look.
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Customising the back of the dress
Customising the back of a wedding dress is a common request and can be a great way to make a statement. Whether you want to add some drama with an open back or create a more modest look with additional coverage, a skilled seamstress will be able to help.
Lowering the backline
A seamstress can lower the backline of your dress, creating a more open back. This alteration can be a great way to achieve a sexy look while still maintaining support for the bust, perhaps with the addition of a soft mesh panel. However, it is important to consider the impact on the overall fit of the dress, as a very low backline may not pull in the waist as desired.
Adding coverage
If you would like a more covered look, you can add material to the back of your dress. This could be a simple panel of fabric or something more decorative, such as lace. This is a great option for a bride who wants to feel more covered but still wants a unique and personalised dress.
Backline shape
The shape of the backline can also be altered to create a different look. For example, a straight backline could be changed to a scoop or V-shape. This alteration may require some additional designing to ensure the new backline flatters the overall silhouette of the dress.
Closure
Changing the closure of the dress is another way to customise the back. You could add a long line of buttons or opt for a corset-style closure. This alteration is a simple way to add a unique touch to your dress without making dramatic changes.
Adding a train
For a truly dramatic look, you could add a train to your dress. This alteration will completely transform the back, creating a show-stopping silhouette. A seamstress will be able to advise on the best way to add a train, ensuring it complements the overall style of the dress.
When customising the back of your wedding dress, it is important to work with a skilled seamstress who has experience with this type of alteration. Be sure to bring inspiration pictures to your fitting so the seamstress can fully understand your vision.
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Tightening the shoulder straps
A seamstress can tighten the shoulder straps of a wedding dress to provide more support and achieve a better fit. However, if the straps are tightened excessively, they can cause discomfort and leave marks on the skin.
If the shoulder straps of a wedding dress are too loose, a seamstress can shorten them by taking apart the shoulder seam, adjusting the length, and then restitching it by hand. This process may vary depending on the dress's lining, piping, or other special interior details.
One common method for tightening straps is to stitch across the strap and cut off the excess fabric. However, this approach can result in a noticeable lump that may not lay flat and can be challenging to sew through. It may also not work if the front strap is narrower than the back strap.
To avoid discomfort and marks from tight straps, some suggest seeking a second opinion from another seamstress or tailor. They may recommend adding internal support, such as a bra or tape, to reduce the weight placed on the straps. Double-sided tape can be used on the sides of the dress, extending up to the straps, to distribute the pressure more evenly.
In some cases, it may be necessary to let out the straps if they have been tightened too much. This can help alleviate discomfort and restore the intended look of the dress.
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Frequently asked questions
The most common wedding dress alteration is hemming the length of the dress. This ensures the gown doesn't drag on the floor and the bride can walk, dance and move with ease.
The number of fittings depends on the number of changes required. Brides typically attend two to three fittings, with the gown starting to take shape during the first fitting.
Bring your wedding day shoes and undergarments to the first fitting. These can impact the fit of the gown. It's also a good idea to bring only one or two close friends or family members for a second opinion.
Ask the seamstress about their experience working with wedding gowns, particularly your type of dress. Read reviews and ask for recommendations from bridal salons. Ask about their expertise with specific fabrics, styles and embellishments.
A seamstress can adjust the waist, hips, bust and straps to achieve a more fitted silhouette. They can also alter the back of the dress, for example, by adding a lace back to a strapless gown.
