Junior Rasmussen
Wedding dresses are often altered to achieve a perfect fit. This can be done by taking the dress in or letting it out at the side seams. Most dresses have a seam under each arm that can be let out by 1-2 cm. If there is not enough fabric to let out the dress, discreet panels can be added to make the dress bigger. Other common alterations include hemming, bodice alterations, waistline alterations, adding a bustle, and sleeve alterations. Wedding dress alterations can be done by a professional seamstress or tailor and typically require 2-3 appointments. The first fitting should be scheduled 6-8 months before the wedding, the second fitting should be 3-4 months before, and the final fitting should be 2-3 weeks before the wedding.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Wedding dress alterations | Hemming, bodice alterations, waistline alterations, bustle addition, sleeve alterations |
| Wedding dress disasters | Poorly fitting gowns, broken zip, ripped hem, stains |
| Solutions to disasters | Additional padding in bridal bra, sash, bolero or cover-up, stain remover pen or wipes, safety pins |
| Tips for buying a wedding dress | Try on multiple sizes, buy the dress that fits best, be mindful of weight, buy a dress that's too big rather than too small |
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What You'll Learn
Shortening the hem
Hemming a wedding dress is a common alteration. It is important to shorten the hem to a length that ensures the bride can walk, dance, and move around comfortably without tripping on the extra fabric. The process involves trimming the fabric and sewing the new hem in place.
Before altering the hem, it is crucial to consider the bride's height, the type of shoes they plan to wear, and the desired length of the dress. For brides who are yet to decide on their wedding shoes, it is recommended to bring a pair with a similar heel height to the fitting. This ensures the hem is altered correctly, as changing from a lower to a higher heel after the alterations may result in the dress being too short.
To begin the hemming process, the bride should stand on a box, platform, or table, wearing the shoes they plan to wear on their wedding day. The fabric is then pinned layer by layer, horizontally around the hem, to mark the desired length. It is important to double-check the measurements with a ruler or measuring tape to ensure the hem is even.
If the wedding dress has a well-defined waistline and a skirt with gathers, it can be hemmed by opening the waist seam, lifting the skirt, and resewing it at the new length. This method allows for adjustments without cutting the fabric first. Determining how much to lift the skirt depends on the skirt's design and can be adjusted to the bride's preference.
For dresses made with delicate fabrics such as silk, chiffon, or lace, a rolled hem is recommended. In the case of a chiffon gown, it is typical for the chiffon to be slightly longer than the inner slip, usually by about 1 to 2 inches, to achieve a graceful look.
Hemming a wedding dress can be a complex process, and it is often advisable to seek the help of a professional seamstress or tailor, especially for intricate dress designs.
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Adjusting the bodice
Darts
Darts are a common method of adjusting the bust of a dress. They are a shaping element that gives a three-dimensional structure to the bodice. To add darts, put on the dress and mark the widest part of your bust on each side with chalk. Take off the dress and measure one inch towards the side seam from that point, which will be the tip of the dart. Next, pick a place on the side seam for the wider section of the dart, which will be below the armhole. Draw a line between these two points, which will be the centre of the dart. To create the dart, draw the two long sides of a triangle, starting from the point near the bust and widening to the side seam. Sew down the wide section of the triangle, starting from the side seam and stitching to the tip of the dart. Fold the fabric triangle to one side and press it with an iron. Repeat this process on the other side of the bodice.
Adjusting the Seams
Another method of adjusting the bodice is to alter the seams of the dress. This can be done by carefully unpicking the lining from the bodice and unpicking the seams. You can then let out or take in the seams as needed, pinning the fabric to see how much fabric needs to be adjusted. When sewing the seams back together, ensure that the new stitch line rejoins the original seam line smoothly.
Corset Back
If you're looking for a more flexible option, you can add a corset back to your dress. This involves swapping out the zip for a lace-up back, allowing for more flexibility in the fit of the dress.
Temporary Fixes
If you're in a pinch and need a quick fix, there are some temporary methods to tighten the bodice of your wedding dress. These include using safety pins, double-sided tape, or fusible tape to tighten the dress.
Remember, it's always best to seek the help of a professional seamstress or tailor if you're unsure about adjusting your wedding dress. They will be able to advise you on the best course of action and ensure that your dress fits you perfectly.
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Adding a modesty panel
A wedding dress modesty panel is a piece of fabric added to the front or back of a gown to provide extra coverage. It is ideal if your dress feels too revealing or does not align with your comfort level or cultural values.
Modesty panels can be added as permanent or temporary features, depending on your preference. If you are handy with a needle and thread, you can even create your own modesty panel at home.
First, try your dress on and measure how high you want your panel to go. Then, lay your dress flat and measure the width of the opening at that point, adding about 1.5" to overlap underneath. Cut your chosen fabric to size, ensuring that it closely matches the dress's colour tone and lace pattern to create harmony. Finish the raw edges of the fabric and stitch it to the inside of your dress, just below the neckline opening.
If you would prefer a professional finish, expert bridal tailors can also customise modesty panels so they look like part of the original design. Whether it's matching lace, satin, or illusion tulle, they can make it seamless and stunning.
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Fixing a broken zip
If your wedding dress is too loose, there are several ways to tighten it. Wedding dresses usually have extra fabric in the seam allowances, which means they can be let out or taken in by about 1-2 cm. This can be done by finding an experienced seamstress to make the adjustments. If your dress has a lace-up back, a wider modesty panel can be added to make the dress smaller.
If your wedding dress has a broken zipper, there are a few ways to fix it. Firstly, assess the damage. Sometimes, the zipper is not actually broken, but just stuck or malfunctioning. If the zipper is stuck, try using some liquid soap to get it moving. If the zipper is malfunctioning, the problem is usually with the slider (the mechanism that moves the zipper up and down). Over time, the slider can loosen, causing the zipper to become less effective at locking the teeth together. This can be fixed by using a pair of pliers to pinch the top and bottom plates of the slider together, restoring it to its original, tighter shape.
If the zipper is actually broken, you can try to replace it yourself. You will need a seam ripper, needle and thread, a replacement zipper, a sewing machine, and a pair of scissors. First, use the seam ripper to remove the old zipper by pulling the fabric taut and cutting it out. This will create two seam lines for the new zipper. Then, sew the new zipper in place following the seam lines.
If you are not confident in your sewing abilities, it is recommended to take the dress to a professional seamstress or tailor to replace the zipper. This will ensure that the job is done correctly and will likely result in a more discreet zipper repair.
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Using a sash for a looser waist
If your wedding dress feels loose around the waist, a sash can be an elegant solution to the problem. Wedding dress sashes, also known as dress belts, can add a personal touch, incorporate a special accessory, or add detail to a plain wedding dress.
Firstly, it is important to try on your wedding dress a few days before the wedding with all the undergarments and accessories you plan to wear on the day. This will allow you to assess whether the dress feels too loose and if a sash is required. If you decide to add a sash, you will need to purchase one and consider how to tie it. There are many different styles of sash, so it is important to find one that you love and that complements your dress. A sash can be tied in a variety of ways, and there are many online tutorials and videos that can provide step-by-step guidance on how to do this.
On your wedding day, enlist the help of two people to get into your dress, one at the front and one at the back. They can ensure that the waist of the dress is in the right spot and help you tie the sash correctly. A sash can be a stylish and practical solution to a loose-fitting wedding dress, ensuring that you feel confident and comfortable as you walk down the aisle.
If you are unable to find a suitable sash, or if you prefer a more permanent solution, it is possible to take in the waist of your wedding dress by sewing or using fusible tape. This process involves pinning the waist of the dress where you want to take it in, marking the fabric with chalk, and then sewing along the marked line. However, this method is more time-consuming and may require the expertise of a professional tailor or seamstress.
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Frequently asked questions
It is advised to find an experienced seamstress to discuss your options. Wedding dresses usually have extra material in the seam allowances, which means they can be let out or taken in without any structural changes. Discreet panels can also be added to make the dress smaller.
If your dress has a lace-up back, a wider modesty panel can be added to make the dress bigger. Alternatively, if you are too big at the bust, you can wear additional padding in your bridal bra. If you are too big at the waist, you can improvise with a sash.
If you bought your wedding dress from a bridal boutique, it may have an in-house wedding dress alterations service. This is usually the best option as you will be working with professional seamstresses who are familiar with your dress design.
Wedding dress alterations can include hemming, bodice alterations, waistline alterations, bustle addition, and sleeve alterations. Alterations can also be made to customise the design of your wedding dress, such as adding sleeves, or swapping a zip for a corset back.
