Deborah Chan
The French bustle, also known as the European style bustle or the underbustle, is a popular choice for brides. This bustle style is created by sewing ties made of ribbon or cotton tape underneath the gown, which are then fastened to buttons or hooks to lift the train and create a fuller, more voluminous look. Unlike the American bustle, the French bustle is done under the gown, resulting in a more subtle flap that enhances the style of the dress. While it can be time-consuming and challenging to achieve, the French bustle is a beautiful addition to a wedding dress, adding another dimension to the design.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Number of points | 1-3 points, with 1 point being the most common |
| Type of fabric | Works best on satin A-line dresses with 3 seams in the back and a chapel train or longer |
| Tools required | Measuring tape, ribbon, needle and thread, safety pins, etc. |
| Time required | Very time-consuming |
| Difficulty | Not suitable for the easily distracted, impatient, or procrastinating person |
| Weight distribution | For long trains, distribute weight among 3 points instead of 1 |
| Appearance | Sticks out less than the American bustle, forming a flap |
| Tying technique | Tie ribbons together, sew loops and buttons, or use hooks |
| Privacy | Tie the bustle out of view of guests and before the reception |
Explore related products
What You'll Learn
Preparing the dress
Next, prepare your workspace. Spread an old sheet or blanket on the floor to protect the dress. Place a dress form in the middle of the blanket, adjusting the measurement settings about 2 inches smaller than the dress's measurements to avoid stretching the fabric. If your dress has a lot of beadwork, cover the dress form with a sheet before putting the dress on it. Put the dress inside out on the form, and fluff a crinoline/petticoat in the dryer before putting it on the form under the dress.
Now, find the centre seam of the train, which should be at the longest point. Flatten the train to find the "floor length", or where the hem of the dress would be if it were floor-length without a train. Measure the centre back seam of the gown's train from the waist to the floor, then measure the distance from the edge of the train to the base of the dress. Mark the place between these two distances with a pin.
Lift the centre back seam at the pin mark and position it against the centre of the waistline at the base of the bodice. Adjust the fold so that the train is between 1/2" to 3/4" (1.3-2 cm) off the floor. Pin the train to the waistline seam, lifting the sides of the train off the floor and pinning along each side of the back seam. Continue folding and pinning the train between the seams as necessary to lift the entire train off the floor.
White Wedding Dresses: Are They Suitable for Indians?
You may want to see also
Explore related products
Measuring the seam
To begin, you will need to place the dress on a dress form or mannequin, preferably over a crinoline or petticoat. If your dress has intricate beadwork, it is advisable to cover the dress form with a sheet to protect the embellishments. Ensure that the dress is inside out, as you will be working on the inner side. Find the centre seam of the train, which should be at the longest point. This centre seam will serve as a reference point for your measurements.
The first measurement you need to take is the length of the centre back seam of the train. Start measuring from the waist, or the waistline seam, and go all the way down to the floor. This will give you the baseline for the next step.
Next, you will measure the distance from the edge of the train to the base of the dress. This measurement will determine the placement of the bustle and how much fabric you will be working with. Mark the spot between these two distances with a pin. This pin mark will be a crucial reference point for the next steps.
Now, lift the centre back seam at the pin mark and bring it towards the centre of the waistline, which is usually at the base of the bodice. Adjust the fold so that the train is slightly lifted off the floor, ideally between 1/2" to 3/4" (1.3 - 2 cm). This slight lift will ensure that the dress doesn't drag on the floor and maintain the desired bustle effect.
At this point, you can start pinning the train to the waistline seam. Lift the sides of the train off the floor by the same amount, 1/2" to 3/4" (1.3 - 2 cm), and carefully fold and pin the fabric along each side of the back seam. Continue this process, folding and pinning the train as needed between the seams to ensure that the entire train is lifted off the floor.
By following these steps, you will have accurately measured and pinned the seam for the French bustle. The next steps would involve creating the ties and loops to secure the bustle, but that is a topic for another time!
Shipping Your Wedding Dress: What's the Cost?
You may want to see also
Explore related products
Pinning the waistline seam and train
To begin creating a French bustle on your wedding dress, you will need to measure the centre back seam of the gown's train from the waist to the floor. Then, measure the distance from the edge of the train to the base of the dress. Mark the place between these two distances with a pin.
Now, lift the centre back seam where you placed the pin and position it against the centre of the waistline, at the base of the bodice. Adjust the fold so that the train is between 1/2" to 3/4" (1.3-2 cm) off the floor. You can use a measuring tape for accuracy. Once you have achieved the desired length, secure this section with pins.
Next, lift the sides of the train off the floor, maintaining the same height of 1/2" to 3/4" (1.3-2 cm). Fold and pin the train along each side of the back seam. Continue this process, lifting and pinning the remaining train fabric off the floor between the seams. This process creates the French bustle's signature look, where the train is elegantly lifted and secured, adding volume and dimension to the wedding dress.
At this stage, you can add loops to the dress for added security. Place a safety pin on the back of the dress, halfway up the length of the train, and sew a loop around it. Thread a needle and insert it into the underside of the dress, pulling the thread through and making a small stitch. Grab the loop and pull the remaining thread through to create a secure knot. You can also add buttons or hooks to fasten the loops for added security and a seamless finish.
Dress Pants at Weddings: Are They Okay for Women?
You may want to see also
Explore related products
Making the ties
- Start by measuring the centre back seam of the gown's train from the waist to the floor. This will be the reference point for your ties.
- Place the dress inside out on a dress form, ensuring it is smoothed out and flat. If your dress has intricate beadwork, consider placing a sheet over the dress form to protect it.
- Find the centre seam of the train, which should be the longest point. Measure and mark the desired length of the train, or the "floor length", by pinning the waistline seam and train. Adjust the fold so that the train is slightly off the floor, about 1/2" to 3/4" (1.3 - 2 cm) is recommended.
- Now, lift the sides of the train off the floor and fold and pin them along each side of the back seam. Continue this process, folding and pinning the train between the seams to lift the entire train off the floor.
- To create the ties, you can use ribbons, preferably in an off-white colour to camouflage them against the dress. Cut the ribbons to the desired length, allowing for some extra length for tying.
- Sew the ribbons securely to the dress. You can sew them directly to the seam, or create loops with the ribbons to attach to buttons or hooks. If using loops, be sure to test their strength, as hooks can tear heavy fabrics.
- Practice tying the ribbons to ensure the French bustle is secure and comfortable. You may also want to add some safety pins along the seam allowance of the hemline as a backup in case the ties come undone during the festivities.
- Finally, flip the dress back to its original position, hiding the ties underneath. Your French bustle is now ready to be shown off!
Remember, this process can be time-consuming and delicate, so give yourself plenty of time and don't rush. Always wash your hands before handling the dress fabric to prevent any soiling.
Creating a Wedding Dress Train: Sewing Guide
You may want to see also
Explore related products
Sewing loops
To begin, you will need to place your wedding dress on a dress form, ensuring that it is inside out. This step is crucial as it allows easy access to the necessary areas of the dress. It is also important to note that if your dress has intricate beadwork, you should place a protective sheet over the dress form to avoid any potential damage.
Once the dress is properly positioned, it's time to find the centre seam of the train, which is typically the longest point of the dress. This centre seam will serve as a reference point for your loops. Place a safety pin halfway up the length of the train on the centre seam. This pin marks the spot where you will sew your loop.
Now, take a needle and thread, and double the thread before inserting it into the needle. Secure the thread with a knot at the end. Insert the needle into the underside of the dress, right where the safety pin is located. Pull the thread all the way through, and make a small stitch.
Next, pull the thread most of the way through, leaving a small loop. Grab this loop with your fingers, and then pull the remaining thread through the loop to create a secure knot. This knot forms the foundation of your loop. You can adjust the size of the loop to your preference, ensuring it is large enough to accommodate buttons, hooks, or ribbons.
If you wish to add buttons or hooks to your loops, sew them directly above the loops, ensuring they are securely attached. You can also add ribbons to your loops for a more decorative and functional touch. Ribbons can be tied in bows, providing an elegant and secure way to hold your French bustle in place.
Lastly, remember that practice makes perfect. Sewing loops may take some time to master, so don't be discouraged if your first attempts don't look perfect. With patience and persistence, you'll be well on your way to creating a stunning French bustle for your wedding dress.
Creative Cover-Ups for Strapless Wedding Dresses
You may want to see also
Frequently asked questions
You will need a wedding/formal dress, a dress form/mannequin, a measuring tape, and ribbons.
First, place the dress inside out on a dress form. Measure the center back seam of the gown's train from the waist to the floor. Mark the halfway point with a pin. Lift the center back seam and position it against the center of the waistline. Adjust the fold so the train is slightly off the floor and pin the train to the waistline. Sew loops of ribbon to the underside of the dress and tie them together.
If you don't like the look of exposed buttons or hooks, you can hand-sew lace appliqués on top of them to conceal them.
