Lyla Dejesus
Sewing a wedding dress train involves several steps and considerations. It is important to decide on the desired length and volume of the train, whether it will be detachable, and what type of fabric and trim to use. Constructing a wedding dress train typically involves creating panels, attaching them together, and adding horsehair trim or other reinforcement to the hem to add body and volume. The train can be bustled using buttons, hooks, or loops, with the option to conceal them with lace appliqués. Personal preferences, the overall design of the dress, and the level of formality of the wedding ceremony and reception may influence the specific choices made during the sewing process.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Sewing technique | Chain stitch |
| Stitch type | Catch stitch, machine stitch, hand stitch |
| Stitch placement | Sides of the train's lining, hem |
| Stitch length | 4 stitches per button |
| Knot type | Secure knot |
| Number of knots | 2 |
| Stitch reinforcement | Interfacing |
| Button loops | Strong thread |
| Button placement | Waistline, back of the dress, above the bride's knees |
| Train length | 65 inches |
| Train construction | Underlining, lining, petticoat |
| Train fabric | Muslin, horsehair trim |
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What You'll Learn
Sewing a hook and eye closure
A hook and eye closure is a common and secure fastener for clothing and accessories. It is often used to fasten two edges together and can be used for waistlines, neck openings, and cuffs. It is also commonly used at the top of a zipper, especially at the neck of a blouse or dress.
To sew a hook and eye closure, follow these steps:
- Place the hook on the underside, right side of the fabric about 1/8 inch (0.32 cm) away from the fabric's edge. You can use chalk or a disappearing ink pen to mark the spot.
- Thread a needle with a 16-18 inch (41-46 cm) length of thread.
- Secure the hook by stitching around the body of the hook 2-3 times. You can also use blanket stitches to go around both loops on the hook.
- Tie off the thread and cut the excess.
- Rethread your needle and place the hook on the eye to determine the placement of the eye.
- Sew around one of the loops of the eye a few times, then use a blanket stitch around both loops.
- Finish by stitching around the sides of the eye 2-3 times, then tie and cut the thread again.
- Attach the hook and eye together to ensure the closure is lined up correctly and adjust if necessary.
- Cut off any excess thread and tie a secure knot.
When choosing a hook and eye closure, pick a size and colour that will be inconspicuous and withstand wear and tear. You can also choose between white, black, and nickel colours to match your fabric. Additionally, select a thread that matches or is similar in colour to your fabric.
Hook and eye closures are a great way to secure a wedding dress train. They can be used to connect the bustle to the dress, providing a secure and inconspicuous fastener.
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Adding a ruffle to the hem
First, lay your dress flat and measure the hem from one side seam to the other. Double that length to get the actual length of your hem. For a denser ruffle, multiply that number by two, as you will need a strip of fabric twice as long as your hem to match its final length. For example, if your hem is 35" long, you will need a strip of fabric that is 140" long.
Next, press up a double 5/8” hem and sew it with a long stitch length and a ¼” seam allowance. Press the seam open and tuck the tails inside the hem. Edgestitch the hem down all the way around and press it again. Pull the bobbin threads on your rows of gathering stitches gently from one end, and even out the gathers with your fingers as you go.
To attach the ruffle evenly to the bottom of the dress, lay the dress flat and mark the raw edge where it folds on both sides. These are your side seams. Place the dress and ruffle RST (right sides together) and pin at the notional side seam markings, then pin at the centre front and centre back. Work around each quarter of the rest of the ruffle edge, pinning and evening out the gathers as you go. Take your time to ensure everything is even. The ruffle pieces should be the same length as the bottom edge of the dress.
Once you are happy with how it looks, sew the top of the ruffle to the dress and finish the seam. You can do this on a sewing machine, or you can sew and then serge, or just serge.
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Using horsehair trim to add body
Horsehair trim, or horsehair braid, is a type of crinoline netting used to provide structure and body to hems, hats, and sleeves. It can be used to add body to the edges of a wedding dress train.
To sew a horsehair braid hem, cut your main fabric and lining to the same length, allowing for the width of the horsehair braid for your hem allowance. Mark out where you want the finished line of your hem to be with pins, and on the inside of the skirt, line up your braid below the line of pins. Pin this in place and trim off the excess fabric. Make sure you keep your offcuts to match up with your lining later.
Place the edge of the horsehair trim without the string flat along the hem. This will make the top edge bubble slightly. Pull the string as needed at the top to adjust the top edge so that it is smaller than the bottom, allowing everything to lie flat with the garment before stitching it in place.
When sewing horsehair trim to tulle, attach it to the "right" side of the tulle layer and then flip it inward and press. Then, stitch the top of the horsehair down to the "wrong" side of the tulle. This will ensure it sits nicely along the fabric and looks clean.
The cut edge of the trim can be quite scratchy and prone to unraveling, so it is best to enclose it in some sort of binding. You can use ribbon, twill tape, or bias binding for this. Place your fabric and horsehair braid right sides together, with the raw edge of the hemline lined up with the bottom edge of the horsehair braid (the edge without the thread). The prettiest side of your seam binding on the cut edge of the braid should be against the right side of the fabric, as this is the side that will be seen and will touch your body.
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Attaching a detachable dust ruffle
A detachable dust ruffle is a great way to add a transitional element to your wedding dress, allowing for two different looks on your special day. It is also a practical solution to keep the train of your dress from getting dirty. Here is a step-by-step guide to attaching a detachable dust ruffle:
Prepare the Ruffle:
Firstly, decide on the type of ruffle you want. You can opt for a ready-made ruffled lace, which is sewn to a straight band, or create your own. If making your own, cut the fabric to the desired length and width, adding a few extra inches to create the ruffle. Fold and iron the edges of the fabric to create a neat finish, then sew along the folded edges to secure them.
Attach the Ruffle to the Train:
Now you will attach the ruffle to the hem of your train. Place the ruffle along the hem, ensuring it is centred and evenly distributed. Use pins to secure the ruffle in place. If you want a fuller look, you can create small pleats in the ruffle as you pin it to the train. Once pinned, carefully sew the ruffle to the train, using small, neat stitches. Ensure that no stitches are visible from the outside.
Create a Detachable Mechanism:
To make the ruffle detachable, you can use buttons, hooks, or loops. Sew buttons or hooks along the waistline of the dress, corresponding to the placement of the ruffle. On the ruffle itself, sew loops or buttonholes that will attach to the buttons or hooks. This will allow you to easily detach the ruffle when desired.
Test and Adjust:
Once the ruffle is attached, test the detachment mechanism to ensure it is secure and functions properly. Make any necessary adjustments to the placement of the buttons, hooks, or loops. Try on the dress with the ruffle attached, and adjust the fullness or length of the ruffle as needed to achieve your desired look.
By following these steps, you can create a detachable dust ruffle that adds a unique and practical element to your wedding dress. Enjoy crafting this special detail that will make your wedding ensemble truly one-of-a-kind!
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Creating a bustle with hooks and loops
Creating a bustle for a wedding dress is a great way to add a transitional look for the reception. There are several types of bustles, each with a different aesthetic effect. Here is a guide to creating a bustle with hooks and loops:
Firstly, evaluate the structure and fabric of the dress. Heavier materials or intricate details may require a stronger bustle, while lighter fabrics can be supported by simpler methods. It is important to consider the ease of bustling, as your bridesmaids or family members will be the ones securing it. Therefore, it is essential to choose a method that is manageable for them.
For an American bustle, also known as an over-bustle, identify three to five points along the waistline where the fabric will be lifted and secured. Attach hooks or buttons at these points. This creates an elegant fold that blends with the dress design.
If you prefer a French bustle, or under-bustle, locate the pick-up points inside the gown's skirt. Attach ties or loops inside the gown, which will be tied together to create an inward tuck that lifts the train and adds volume to the gown's back. This is ideal for full, layered dresses.
A Ballroom bustle is a more complex option that creates the illusion of no bustle. The train is meticulously folded into the skirt, resulting in a seamless ballgown look. Use a system of hooks and loops or buttons and loops, spread across the waist and throughout the skirt.
Finally, practice bustling the dress before the wedding day to ensure a smooth and stress-free experience. Confusion or difficulties with bustling can cause unwanted delays. Choose a bustle style that not only functions well but also enhances the beauty of your gown when the train is lifted.
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Frequently asked questions
Sewing a wedding dress train involves several steps, including:
- Creating a dramatic train by using muslin from fittings as the underlining and then seaming the panels together.
- Adding horsehair trim inside the train to add body and volume to its edges.
- Securing the train to the dress with buttons or hooks, especially if it is detachable.
There are a few ways to attach a train to a wedding dress, including:
- Sewing loops to the back of the dress and buttons above them to create a 1-point overbustle.
- Using buttons or hooks: sew buttons or hooks along the waistline of the dress, and then fasten loops to them to attach the train.
- Adding a French bustle: this is more secure than an American bustle and involves creating folds in the train fabric and securing them with pins and buttons or hooks.
To make a wedding dress train look fuller, you can adjust the folds of fabric on the train to create more volume. You can also add a ruffle to the hem to help keep it off the floor and give it a fuller appearance.
