Junior Rasmussen
A wedding dress bustle is a way to secure the train or any extra fabric of a wedding dress so that it doesn't drag on the floor. There are several types of bustles, including the French bustle, the American bustle, the underbustle, and the wrist bustle. Each type of bustle has its own unique method of fastening the fabric, such as using buttons, hooks, loops, or ribbons. The process of installing a bustle can be time-consuming and complicated, and it is often customized to the specific wedding dress. It is important to consider the functionality and aesthetics of the dress when choosing a bustle style.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To secure the train or any extra fabric off the ground and into the back of the dress to prevent it from dragging on the floor and getting soiled |
| Types | French, American, Austrian, Underbustle, Overbustle, Ballroom, Train-flip, Bow, Wrist |
| Attachment | Hooks, ties, buttons, ribbons, loops |
| Customisation | Customised based on the design, aesthetic, length of the wedding gown, and fabric; chosen by a seamstress |
| Installation | Sewn by hand; the more buttons, loops, ties, and ribbons, the more expensive |
| Assistance | Assistance from a designated person, usually a bridesmaid or family member, is required to bustle the dress |
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What You'll Learn
How to tie a French bustle
A French bustle, also known as an underbustle, is a type of wedding dress bustle that can be done yourself, saving you a lot of money. It is very time-consuming and requires a lot of patience, so bear that in mind before attempting it. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to tie a French bustle:
Firstly, you will need to prepare your workspace and dress. Spread a sheet or blanket on the floor to protect the dress and place a dress form in the middle. Adjust the measurements of the dress form to be about 2 inches smaller than the dress measurements. Put the dress inside out on the form, fluffing the crinoline/petticoat underneath. If the dress has beadwork, protect it with a sheet.
Next, find the centre seam of the train, which should be at the longest point. Flatten the train to see how long it is, and find the "floor length". Measure the centre back seam from the waist to the floor, and then the distance from the edge of the train to the base of the dress. Mark the place between these two distances with a pin.
Now, lift the centre back seam at the pin mark and position it against the centre of the waistline, pinning the train to the waistline seam. Lift the sides of the train off the floor and fold and pin the train along the back seam. Continue folding and pinning between the seams until the remaining train is off the floor.
Once the folds are secure, release the bustle and remove the pins. Sew buttons or hooks at the pin marks to secure the dress. Thread a needle with strong thread and knot the ends. Insert the needle at the pin, next to the seam line, and pull it through to the other side. Secure the loop by running the needle and thread through and making two knots.
Finally, fasten the loops to the buttons or hooks, adjusting the folds to create a voluminous bustle. If you prefer, you can conceal the hooks or buttons with lace appliqués. And there you have it—a French bustle!
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How to tie an American bustle
A wedding dress bustle is a clever way to secure the train of a wedding dress so that it doesn't drag on the floor. There are several types of bustles, but in this case, we will focus on the American bustle, also known as an over-bustle. This style of bustle is simple for a seamstress to create and easy to attach on the wedding day. It adds drama to the back of the dress by creating a cascading feel as the fabric folds flow over the rest of the skirt.
To create an American bustle, start by attaching an eye hook or button to the outside of the wedding dress, near the lower back. This should be attached high up on the train, and can be hidden in the seams with creative decoration. Next, attach the lower tie about halfway down the back of the skirt. Ribbons are not usually used for an over bustle, as they would be visible. Instead, hooks and eyes are used to connect the two parts. Once connected, the underside of the skirt should be lifted completely off the floor. Straighten out the train, making sure that any details on the tail of the train are arranged pleasingly. You can attach more sets of hooks and eyes if desired, to create multiple pick-up points for extra flair.
If you don't like the look of exposed buttons or hooks, you can hand-sew lace appliqués on top of them to conceal them. It is also important to note that American bustles are not as strong as French bustles, so there is a chance that the bustle may break over the course of the evening. It is a good idea to have someone help you with this kind of bustle, and to assign someone to help you with your dress on your wedding day. This person should attend your dress fittings so they can learn how to properly bustle your dress.
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How to attach hooks and eyes
Hooks and eyes are a great way to bustle a wedding dress. They are easy to use, and you can hide them in the dress's fabric or decorations. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to attach hooks and eyes to create a beautiful and functional bustle for your wedding dress:
Plan the Placement:
First, decide where you want to place the hooks and eyes. Hooks and eyes are typically attached near the waistline or along the back seam of the dress. Consider the weight of the train when planning the placement. If the train is heavy, you may need multiple hooks and eyes, or "bustle points," to distribute the weight evenly.
Attach the Hooks:
Sew the hooks onto the dress securely. You can use strong thread, such as upholstery thread, to ensure the hooks are firmly attached. If the hooks need extra reinforcement, you can attach a small piece of interfacing underneath each hook. Try to conceal the hooks by sewing them into seams or hiding them under decorative elements like embroidery, beading, or lace appliqués.
Attach the Eyes:
The eyes, or loops, can be made with thread or ribbon. Use strong thread and knot the ends together before inserting the needle at the desired location. Pull the thread through the fabric and create a loop that will fit over the hook. Secure the loop by running the needle and thread through it and then back through the fabric. Make a few knots to secure the thread, and trim any excess.
Connect the Hooks and Eyes:
Once all the hooks and eyes are in place, connect them to form the bustle. Adjust the folds of the fabric to create a pleasing and voluminous shape. Ensure the underside of the skirt is completely off the floor. If needed, attach more sets of hooks and eyes to lift the skirt and showcase any decorative work on the train.
Practice and Adjust:
Practice bustling the dress to ensure it functions smoothly. Assign someone to help you with this task on your wedding day, such as a bridesmaid or another member of the bridal party. They can attend your dress fittings to learn how to bustle the dress properly. Finally, enjoy your wedding day, knowing your dress is both beautiful and functional!
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How to tie a bow bustle
A bustle on a wedding dress is a great way to secure the train and prevent it from dragging on the floor. It also adds elegance and makes it easier for the bride to move around. There are several ways to tie a bow bustle, and here is one of the most common methods:
Steps to Tie a Bow Bustle:
Prepare the Fabric:
Firstly, you will need to prepare the fabric of the dress for the bustle. This involves measuring the center back seam of the train from the waist to the floor. Then, measure the distance from the edge of the train to the base of the dress. Mark the midpoint between these two measurements, as this will be the focal point of your bow bustle.
Create the Bow:
Now, it's time to create the bow. Lift the center back seam to the desired height, usually between 1.3 to 2 cm off the floor, and position it against the center of the waistline at the base of the bodice. Adjust the folds so that the train is slightly off the floor, creating a symmetrical look. The fabric should be folded and pinned in place, creating a neat and elegant bow shape.
Attach the Ties:
This step involves attaching the ties that will secure the bustle. Attach the ties to the underside seam of the skirt, ensuring they are not visible from the outside. You can use hooks, buttons, or ties, depending on your preference and the style of your dress. If using hooks, sew them onto the end of the train, concealing them with embroidery or beading. If using buttons, stitch them securely onto the dress, running the thread through the fabric to make it sturdy.
Secure the Bustle:
Now, you can secure the bustle by fastening the ties together. Ensure they are tight and secure, and then adjust the back of the dress until it looks perfect. If you have multiple ties, make sure they are connected to their corresponding partners. It is often helpful to have someone assist you with this step, usually a bridesmaid or another member of the bridal party.
With these steps, you can create a beautiful and functional bow bustle for your wedding dress. It adds a unique touch to your special day and ensures you can move with ease and grace.
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How to bustle without a bridal party
Bustling a wedding dress without a bridal party can be challenging, but it is possible. Here are some tips to help you bustle your dress independently:
First, understand the purpose of bustling. A bustle lifts the back of your dress off the ground to prevent it from getting soiled or causing you to trip. There are various bustle styles, including the American bustle, French bustle, and bow bustle, each with a slightly different look and method.
Next, choose the appropriate bustle style for your dress. Consult a skilled seamstress who can recommend the best type of bustle for your gown's silhouette, the amount of fabric, and your desired look. They will sew the necessary hooks, ties, or buttons onto the back of your dress during alterations.
Now, let's discuss how to bustle your dress on your own. If you have an American bustle, attach the midpoint of your train to a button or hook on the upper part of the back of your skirt. For a French bustle, follow these steps:
- Measure the center back seam of the train from the waist to the floor.
- Measure the distance from the edge of the train to the base of the dress.
- Mark the spot between these measurements with a pin.
- Lift and pin the train to the waistline seam, ensuring it is slightly off the floor.
- Continue folding and pinning the train to lift it entirely off the floor.
- Sew buttons or hooks where you placed the pins to secure the bustle.
- Create button loops with strong thread and attach them to the dress using a needle.
- Fasten the loops to the buttons or hooks and adjust the fabric for a voluminous look.
If you prefer a bow bustle, fold the fabric above the gown and secure it with ties hidden under the bow. This creates a symmetrical look.
Remember, bustling your own dress can be challenging, and it is always helpful to have someone assist you if possible. Practice bustling your dress beforehand, and consider keeping safety pins, a needle, and clear fishing line on hand in case any adjustments are needed during your special day.
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