Deborah Chan
Hemming a wedding dress is a common alteration, as most dresses will need to be adjusted to fit the bride's height. It is recommended to use a professional seamstress, especially if the dress has multiple layers, a train, or decorative lace at the bottom. However, it is possible to hem a wedding dress yourself by hand. This involves trying on the dress with the correct shoes to determine the desired length, marking the hemline, cutting off any excess fabric, folding the raw edge, and then sewing the hem using a blind stitch.
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Seek professional help
Hemming a wedding dress is not a simple task, and it is highly recommended that you seek professional help. This is especially important if your wedding dress is traditional, with several layers, a train, tulle, or any other kind of intricate detail. The stakes are high when it comes to your wedding dress, and a small mistake can be noticeable and ruin the overall look.
A professional seamstress with experience in wedding dresses will be able to accurately assess the amount of fabric to be removed or adjusted. They will also be able to advise on the best method for hemming your dress, depending on its style and fabric. For example, if your dress has a well-defined waistline and a skirt with gathers, a professional will know to lift the skirt and resew it at the new length. This method is also useful if there is decorative lace at the waist seam, as it helps to camouflage the alteration.
Additionally, a professional will be able to ensure that your dress is hemmed evenly. They will take into account the type of shoes you plan to wear and adjust the hem accordingly. This is crucial, as the hem length can vary depending on whether you will be wearing heels or flats. A professional will also be able to work with you to understand your specific requirements, such as if you plan to wear your dress for a garden wedding or if you need a higher hem for a particular style of dance.
While it is possible to find tutorials and guides online for hemming a dress, it is a delicate and intricate process that requires precision and experience. A professional seamstress will have the necessary skills and expertise to handle your wedding dress with care and ensure that the final result is flawless. They will also be able to work with you to address any concerns or adjustments needed after the initial fitting, providing peace of mind that your dress will be perfect for your special day.
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Prepare the dress
Hemming a wedding dress can be a daunting task, especially if you've never done it before. It is recommended to hire a professional seamstress or tailor for the job, especially if the dress has multiple layers or intricate details like lace or tulle. However, if you're feeling adventurous and want to attempt it yourself, here's a step-by-step guide to prepare the dress for hemming:
Firstly, try on the wedding dress. It is important to wear the appropriate foundation garments, including the petticoat and shoes you plan to wear on your big day. This will ensure the most accurate hemline. If you're happy with the current length and just need to even out the hem, mark the desired hemline with fabric chalk or tailor's chalk. If you need to shorten the dress, determine how much fabric you want to remove.
Turn the dress inside out and lay it flat on a work surface. Use a ruler or measuring tape to measure the desired length from the floor and mark the new hemline. Make sure to add a little extra length if you plan to wear heels, as the dress should just graze the floor when you're standing still. Mark the hemline all around the dress, making sure it's even.
Now, it's time to cut the fabric. Using sharp scissors, carefully cut along the marked line. If you're nervous about cutting, you can mark a lower cutting line about 2 inches (5 cm) above the hemline and cut along that. This will give you some wiggle room, and you can always cut more if needed.
If there are multiple layers to the dress, such as an underskirt and an overskirt, you may need to cut each layer separately to ensure an even hem. Take your time with this step and make sure the dress is inside out to avoid any accidental snips to the outer fabric.
Once you've cut the fabric, fold up the raw edge of the fabric towards the inside of the dress. This will create a neat finish and ensure that the raw edge is not visible from the outside. You can use pins to hold the folded fabric in place temporarily.
Now that you've prepared the dress and created the new hemline, you're ready to start sewing the hem. Depending on the fabric and style of the dress, you can choose between hand sewing or using a sewing machine for the next steps.
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Mark the hemline
Marking the hemline is a crucial step in altering a wedding dress. Here is a detailed guide on how to do it:
Trying on the Dress
Before marking the hemline, it is essential to try on the wedding dress to determine the desired length and ensure the hem is even. Put on the dress with the same shoes you plan to wear on your wedding day, standing on a level surface. This step ensures that the hemline will be straight and fall correctly. If you want the dress to be shorter, decide how much fabric you want to remove. It is important to note that hemming more than 4 inches can significantly change the way the dress hangs and fits.
Marking the Hemline
Turn the dress inside out and lay it flat on a work surface. Use fabric chalk or a pencil to mark the hemline. Place a ruler or measuring tape on the dress and make marks every 4 inches along the hemline. Then, lay the ruler across the marks to connect them and create a straight line. You can also use pins to mark the hemline. Start by finding the highest point of the hem and use a pin to secure the fabric in a 'W' shape.
Marking the Hem on a Dress Form
If you are using a dress form, ensure that the level of the hem on the form matches the level when worn on your body. You can use a laser level or a yardstick with chalk attached to mark the hemline on the dress form. Shine the laser onto the dress and mark the line with pins, or rotate the yardstick side to side to rub the chalk against the dress.
Marking the Hem with the Wearer
When marking the hem with the wearer, accuracy is crucial. Have the wearer put on the dress with the appropriate foundation garments and shoes. Use a measuring tape to measure the length from the waist down to the desired hemline. Mark this spot with a pin and repeat the process around the dress. This method ensures that the hemline is even and sits at the correct length.
Marking the Hem on a Multi-Layered Dress
If your wedding dress has multiple layers, such as chiffon over satin, you will need to mark each layer separately. With the dress on, use a pencil or pins to mark the desired length for each layer. You can then trim the excess fabric and proceed with hemming each layer accordingly.
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Cut the fabric
Cutting the fabric is a crucial step in hemming a wedding dress. Here is a detailed guide to help you through the process:
First, try on the dress to determine the desired length. It is important to wear the shoes you plan to wear on your wedding day, as the heel height can significantly impact the dress's length. Mark the desired length with a pin or fabric chalk. If using chalk, turn the dress inside out and lay it flat on a surface before marking the hemline. This process ensures a straight and even hemline.
Next, decide on the cutting technique. One popular method is to cut the fabric along the marked line, allowing for a 2-inch (5.1 cm) fold at the hemline. This fold ensures that the raw edge of the fabric is tucked under, creating a neat finish. However, some people prefer to cut the fabric while the bride is wearing the dress, as this can result in an extremely accurate hem. If you choose this method, ensure the bride stands still and does not shift her weight.
When cutting the fabric, it is essential to use sharp scissors designed specifically for sewing. This helps achieve a straight cut and prevents the fabric from being blunted. Additionally, consider the type of fabric you are working with. For delicate fabrics like tulle, using a serger without needles can result in a smooth cut without jagged edges.
Finally, if you are happy with the marked line, carefully cut the excess fabric from the bottom of the dress. Always cut a little longer than you think you need, as you can always cut more, but you cannot add fabric back once it is cut. Save the scraps if you want to use them for another sewing project.
Remember, cutting the fabric is a crucial step, and it is always better to err on the side of caution. Take your time, and if you are unsure, seek advice from a professional seamstress or someone with experience in altering wedding dresses.
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Sew the hem
Hemming a wedding dress can be a daunting task, but with careful preparation and attention to detail, it can be done successfully. Here is a step-by-step guide to sewing the hem of a wedding dress:
Firstly, try on the wedding dress without shoes to determine the desired length. Stand with your feet flat on the floor to ensure an even hemline. If shortening the dress, decide how much fabric to remove, keeping in mind that the dress should just graze the floor when standing still.
Next, turn the dress inside out and lay it flat on a work surface. Use fabric chalk to mark the hemline, making marks every 4 inches along the desired length. Cut the fabric along this line with sharp scissors, ensuring a straight cut. If there is a decorative lace at the bottom, a more intense alteration may be required to preserve its look.
Now, fold the raw edge of the fabric up and under, towards the hemline. This will create a neat finish and ensure that the stitches are not visible from the outside. Pin the fold in place if needed.
Using a needle and thread, begin sewing the hem by hand using a blind stitch. Insert the needle and pull until a loop forms, then bring the needle through the loop to knot the thread. Repeat this process along the hemline, ensuring that the stitches are secure and even.
Finally, trim any excess thread and turn the dress right side out. Check that the hem is even and make any necessary adjustments. If the wedding dress has a sweep train, ensure that the hem is tapered gradually towards the back to avoid any drops or angles in the hem.
Hemming a wedding dress can be challenging, especially with intricate fabrics or multiple layers. It is important to take your time and consider seeking professional help if you are unsure, as mistakes can be costly.
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Frequently asked questions
The cost of getting a wedding dress hemmed can vary. Some people have reported quotes of $200, with the average being $25-$100. However, others have reported paying $250 or more for multiple alterations, including hemming.
It is recommended to get a wedding dress hemmed by a professional, especially if the dress has multiple layers or decorative lace at the bottom. While it is possible to hem a dress yourself, a professional will ensure the job is done correctly and avoid costly mistakes.
First, try on the dress with the shoes you plan to wear and determine where you want the hem to be. Mark the hemline with fabric chalk, then take off the dress and lay it flat to cut along the marked line. Cut off slightly more than you think you need, as it is always better to cut off too much than too little.
To hem a wedding dress with a sweep train, you will need to taper the sides gradually so that there is no drop or angle in the hem. You will also need to ensure that the train is still intact after hemming. It is recommended to hem the underskirt more than the overskirt to preserve the sweep train.
